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Broad Mites?

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RetroGrow

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With all due respect, Retro, posts earlier in this thread point out that people had problems with the high temp treatment.

They MAY have been only using hot water, though.. So perhaps you got something there.. My plants are outside, so it is a little different.

Sincerely, GOOD ON YA and your people for beating the Scourge...



Recent experience from people on this thread shows that Forbid works as an alternating Ovacide, but did not kill the insects directly. I am using Avid alone as little as possible - addressing every new generation of BM's.. So far so good... If it does not work, I will look into Forbid.

This Website in general, and this thread in particular have been very helpful in my pursuits..
It's not as important to be "Right," IMO, but to learn and spread the knowledge.. Just like us all, Ya..?

Wonder whazzup with our Compatriot Norkali ?? --- Those plants looked like they were Hurtin'. What's the verdict..? Hanging on the edge of our seats..! Wishin' for the best..

I believe that one person had a problem with submersion in hot water. May or may not have done it correctly, however, I did the water dunk @111 degrees with no harm to the plant. But I found that heating up the grow room to 117-120 degrees will kill mites with ABSOLUTELY NO HARM TO THE PLANTS. I limited exposure to these temps to 45 minutes. This was done three times with no ill effects, except to the mites.
I also used Avid, but they kept coming back, as Avid does not kill eggs like Forbid does.
The heat treatment does work, as evidenced by the nurseries and greenhouses that use that method, albeit with different plants/veggies.
I am not making this stuff up:

http://compendium.bayercropscience....Polyphagotarsonemus_latus.htm?open&ccm=200010

"As broad mites are very sensitive to heat, hot water treatment (45-50°C; 113 - 122°F for 15 minutes) of plants before they are transferred into a greenhouse may prevent the introduction of the pest."

http://entnemdept.ufl.edu/creatures/orn/broad_mite.htm

"In addition, hot water treatments may be used to control the mites without injuring the plants. This involves lowering the plant into water held at 43 to 49° C (109.4-120.2°F) for 15 minutes."

http://www.ehow.com/how_8680538_combat-broad-mites.html



"Fill a leak-proof container with water that is 109 to 111 degrees. Use a cooking thermometer to test the water before beginning treatment, as temperatures above 111 degrees may cause damage. Make sure that the chosen container is deep enough to submerge all of the affected plant's foliage.


Submerge the entire plant in the hot water and allow it to remain there for no more than 15 minutes. Broad mites are susceptible to heat and can't survive submersion at these temperatures."

Note it said that temps above 111 may damage plants. So that may be the problem, as other sites recommended even higher temps, as cited above.

In my research, I came upon another remedy that sounds really good, although I have not personally tried it yet, but I will be getting some. It's a product called "Antistress". It is a polymer coating sprayed on the plants, which the mites cannot penetrate. It does not harm the plants or keep them from "breathing" (transpiring). It can be found here:
http://www.polymerag.com/

Quote from a user:
"I had been battling mites all year long. I saw where roses that were sprayed with it did not get mites. So the quest was on. I still have close to 75 out of 100 plants. they were constantly dropping leaves and had mites. I had tried everything.

Well we are 2 months and have not even seen 1 mite. The polymer film sprayed on the plant may have done what I was hoping for. It made a barrier that the tiny mites could not penetrate. It made my plants hold their leaves and did not harm them in any way.
I used anti stress 2000, I am sure they are all good but the 2000 went a lot further and was in stock locally. I have used 1/2 quart and sprayed everything on my growing area from vegtables to brugs with no ill effects. I did spray a few plants with mites when I started using it. It stopped them in their tracks and had no further infestation to date. None of the commercial sprays from systemics to neem oil has done even 1/10 as good. I am still going on the original sprays. I tried it on everything once a small test was done on different plants and types for a month. I sprayed everything twice in a week period. I sprayed vegetables, NBJ, Plumeria, cannas, roses, vines, Hybiscus, trees, day lillies, rubber trees, Honeysuckle, Plumbago, and about another 10-15 types of plants. I sprayed everything in my growing area. Zero ill effects and many positive effects other than mites and fungus control.
I live in a perfect mite environment where they can breed and multiply 10 months out of the year and their populations not be harmed by cold weather. I had 3 choices: solve the problem, cut my numbers down to maybe 15-20 plants, or quit growing them. The polymer smothers them and makes a barrier that is almost impossible for them to penetrate. It is a mite specific solution.

Also needing some research is ability of the polymer to carry and incorporate into its barrier items like Avid,Forbid, pepper extracts, IGR's and systemics for a total control of all sucking and chewing insects. I have found enough of a solution to my mite problem that it has made growing brugs on the same level as normal vegetables.

I am at the end of 8 week label protection period. It is 90+ and all my brugs are flowering. This is when they usually attack. I have not found 1 infected leaf yet. I was sacking up a plastic Wal-mart bag daily to the top with leaves before using a polymer. I am going to see just how long I can stretch it out. There are plenty of new unprotected leaves and flowers. I still have 1/2 a bottle left and it will cover 1 acre and spraying all my plants twice about $ 8.00 for 2 months of protection. I like it.

http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/brug/msg090328378869.html

This sounds very promising/exciting. I had never heard of this before and don't know anyone who has tried it, but I will be ordering some for sure.
Sounds like the "Holy Grail" if it works. Hopefully someone here will try it and report back. I would test it on a single plant first, and, obviously, only in veg.

One other point: Broad/Cyclamen/Russett mites love flowers, and they are often transferred that way. Cut flowers are a "no-no" in your grow house. If your wife or girlfriend wants cut flowers in the "house", I would say "absolutely not".
 
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I know this has nothing to do with a solution but I was trying to.figure out howthese bastards have been spreading so much now.....???? I have been noticing that a lot of the old og pics people show have these same symptoms as the ones mentioned all over this thread.. could it be that now with og clones being so widely available it has made it easy for these little bastards to spread much faster.. ?? I remember some people blaming progresive options in the valley , I also remember p.o. were the main source of og cuts for a while. They were the once to make it commercially available to thousands and I'm sure people traveled states to access those genetics.! With all that said which really had no value..lol here's some a thread of early 08 in which he shows a grow on multiple ogs and notice the curling leaves and burned pistils.. also remember that og wasn't that commercially available in 08 you had to know someone.

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=91690
 

Rolldaddy

Member
I am in week 3 of flower. Yesterday I noticed 2 of my top buds look like the white hairs got burned. Is that broad mites? Or can it be something else?
 

Rolldaddy

Member
My planes are indoor. No pollen and I haven't been molesting them either. This is my first time growing since vie moved to the north east. I don't have experience w BM. I am familiar with spider mites. It's not that either. No webs or the spots they leave on the leafs.

What's going on with my girls I've never seen before. It's only affected 2 or 3 percent of my top buds. It almost looks as if they singed a little. White hairs are small and the tips look like they already turned reddish. I have no idea what it is
 

stasis

Registered Non-Conformist
Veteran
Rolldaddy, that would certainly be consistent with BM damage.. Breaks my heart to think that you are having the same Scourge in the NE as CA is..

Years ago, there was no prob with these bugs... Where did they come from..? Hmmm...
 

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
My planes are indoor. No pollen and I haven't been molesting them either. This is my first time growing since vie moved to the north east. I don't have experience w BM. I am familiar with spider mites. It's not that either. No webs or the spots they leave on the leafs.

What's going on with my girls I've never seen before. It's only affected 2 or 3 percent of my top buds. It almost looks as if they singed a little. White hairs are small and the tips look like they already turned reddish. I have no idea what it is


If the tip of the pistils turn black, Id really be worried. Also, Ive noticed you can easily see a difference in thickness between the affected and unaffected parts of the pistils. Look for this sign too.
 

RedReign

Active member
I know this has nothing to do with a solution but I was trying to.figure out howthese bastards have been spreading so much now.....???? I have been noticing that a lot of the old og pics people show have these same symptoms as the ones mentioned all over this thread.. could it be that now with og clones being so widely available it has made it easy for these little bastards to spread much faster.. ?? I remember some people blaming progresive options in the valley , I also remember p.o. were the main source of og cuts for a while. They were the once to make it commercially available to thousands and I'm sure people traveled states to access those genetics.! With all that said which really had no value..lol here's some a thread of early 08 in which he shows a grow on multiple ogs and notice the curling leaves and burned pistils.. also remember that og wasn't that commercially available in 08 you had to know someone.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=91690

OG Kush clones were readily available in 08 from places like SVC, NNCC, TLMD, and I'm sure other clubs too. Long before PO was around.
 
Here is my experience with P.O.

Here is my experience with P.O.

OG Kush clones were readily available in 08 from places like SVC, NNCC, TLMD, and I'm sure other clubs too. Long before PO was around.

I was just waiting for someone to comment about P.O....I had got some killer cuts from P.O. (The larry OG) Just killer good. Now the bad part. I usually don't talk "smack" against anyone. BUT, here we go...................I never had a problem in my rooms until I started getting cuts from P.O. Then I had spidys, PM, and then finnally the killer "Broads"...They had the very bestest cuts ,the AAA+ But at what price..? I am still dealing with the Broards I got from them. The moral of the story is .......Grow from seed (like I always did)....before the hell I will deal with from now until forever ...they and others will tell you to use harsh chems like avid, forbid, ect, Fuck that...plain and simple. I have a handle on it now , but it literally took me a couple of years. I am an old timey grower from way back 35 years. Thought I was smart getting my cuts from P.O. and it worked pretty well for a while... Take this ol farts advise ,Hang hot shots for about 3 or 4 weeks in a closed room with no air exchange ,just let them soak in there... then air everything out...then start from scratch...from seed ....don't use cuts from ANY dispensary...PERIOD...you can take this advise as you will..All the very best....!!!I want to add ,just in case you think I'm a idiot I quanteened my cuts for two weeks in a separate room dunking them in miticide 3 or 4 times before letting them in and still got the "hell from P.O.....
 
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Here's a list I thought would be helpful.... this is a PDF file and if you click on the link it downloads.. or you can Google it. I typed in rosemary oil for broad mites ..

Again this is a list of chems, soaps and other stuff that works on all sorts of mites. It gives you the name active ingredient plus it tells you what types of mites it kills plus it also has other useful info about the chemicals used.
 

aligee

Well-known member
Veteran
Essential oil is the way to go cheap and 100% effective thats my word i got a collection of elites that i dare not lose this has made sure i dont !!! AliGee!
 

Norkali

Active member
Wonder whazzup with our Compatriot Norkali ?? --- Those plants looked like they were Hurtin'. What's the verdict..? Hanging on the edge of our seats..! Wishin' for the best..

:biggrin: - That's love right there....

Avid on deck, two applications so far - Jeez that's a gnarly process with all the PPE and 12 hour REI....whew...

Been hitting the ladies with alternating shots of SNS-217, then Liquid Ladybug once the SNS ran out, and recently started using Neem...they also received a spray of Spinosad last week - following up with a new bottle today....

Let's get some pictures...

So, it turns out the plant I showed last time was actually an OGK cut...but here she is on the road to recovery
picture.php


Here's the good news though.....my GSC is looking nice and healthy through all of this....Root Aphids, Broad Mites, and now a nice little bonus round of Fungus Gnats from being careless with my watering and fresh air intake discretion - that or they came in a new bag of soil (DE = for the fungus gnats)

Healthy gal:
picture.php


Essential oil is the way to go cheap and 100% effective thats my word i got a collection of elites that i dare not lose this has made sure i dont !!! AliGee!

I just want to quote this for truth - SNS-217 worked for me superbly! I immediately noticed the plants looking better a day after my first 217 application - essential oils are where its at (Peppermint Oil, Clove Oil, natural things like that,) which is also what made me try the Liquid Ladybug...

From SNS-217's MSDS
Chemical Name Wt% CAS# Hazardous
Rosemary Oil 2% 8000-25-7 No
Polyglyceryl Oleate 0.6% 9007-48-1 No
Lauric Acid 0.1% 143-07-7 No

Liquid Ladybug:
Peppermint Oil 2.00% 8030-01-1 No
Geraniol 1.50% 106-24-1 No
Citric Acid 0.50% 77-92-9 No
 

stasis

Registered Non-Conformist
Veteran
Seeing new damage in the Greenhouse. And upon further inspection, a BM or two... Not many at all, but... Guess I am spraying the heinous poison (Avid) in the Greenhouse for the third time. Doh...

So close to beating them. Gonna keep trying.

SNS-217, eh...? Really works..? If so, I will do a 'rotation.' So insidiously small. So many places for them to hide. They do so much damage, for how small they are...! No need for an infestation, just a few can still cause massive problems.

I used to think Spider Mites were bad..! Easy to control compared to these Buggers.

Must have my genetics come through this healthy, for the Indoor season. It is almost demoralizing....

Good Luck...!
 
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groady-ho

as is all-too-common in my life, I succumbed to my
Veteran
Seeing new damage in the Greenhouse. And upon further inspection, a BM or two... Not many at all, but... Guess I am spraying the heinous poison (Avid) in the Greenhouse for the third time. Doh...

So close to beating them. Gonna keep trying.

SNS-217, eh...? Really works..? If so, I will do a 'rotation.' So insidiously small. So many places for them to hide. They do so much damage, for how small they are...! No need for an infestation, just a few can still cause massive problems.

I used to think Spider Mites were bad..! Easy to control compared to these Buggers.

Must have my genetics come through this healthy, for the Indoor season. It is almost demoralizing....

Good Luck...!
i just killed pretty much everything today..i tried several oils, lavender,sesame,thyme, then on to stronger stuff..decicded i didn't want to use avid,azamax, forbid or floramite? i think..
f-that, i'll start over..

very depressing...very..

never had a problem before either..
i'm so disheartened..i just got ecsd and a few others..
 
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