I would try some swirskii mites as predators and try to build up a natural population. Im going in with some other local growers on a monthly order to use as preventative maintenance in my garden through out the year..
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Broad Mites?
- Thread starter Grow Tech
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I would try some swirskii mites as predators and try to build up a natural population. Im going in with some other local growers on a monthly order to use as preventative maintenance in my garden through out the year..
I did some research.... These aren't broad mites, they are rust mites...
heres my pic
they look kinda like thrips but WAY smaller and less mobile.
heres a description from wikki
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aceria_anthocoptes
what the hell is up with all these different kinds of mites all uh sudden hoppin on the herbs?
heres my pic
they look kinda like thrips but WAY smaller and less mobile.
heres a description from wikki
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aceria_anthocoptes
what the hell is up with all these different kinds of mites all uh sudden hoppin on the herbs?
i had russet mites, no broads,
broads are lil and round, smaller than russets, russets are oblong like a lil worm.
i had good results with sulfur brand wettable sulfur (sold as a fungicide ) against russets
broads are lil and round, smaller than russets, russets are oblong like a lil worm.
i had good results with sulfur brand wettable sulfur (sold as a fungicide ) against russets
Russet mites are a common problem.
Best way to avoid them is to not have tomatoes in your outdoor garden.
Cherry tomatoes usually have them crawling all over the vine parts.
Take a branch of any of your tomato plants and shake it over any flat surface you can examine (even the deck)... you'll see them all over.
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Russet Mite control:
Royalty and Perring (1987) evaluated five acaricides on tomato russet mite and a tydeid mite predator, Homeopronematus anconai. For tomato russet mite, avermectin B1 (Avid, Agrimer) was the most toxic, followed by dicofol, cyhexatin, sulfur, and thuringiensin. According to their study, selective doses of Avermectin B1 could provide good control of tomato russet mite while conserving a predator of the tomato russet mite, H. anconai.
Looks like Avid plus predators would work very well.
http://www.extento.hawaii.edu/kbase/crop/Type/a_lycope.htm
Best way to avoid them is to not have tomatoes in your outdoor garden.
Cherry tomatoes usually have them crawling all over the vine parts.
Take a branch of any of your tomato plants and shake it over any flat surface you can examine (even the deck)... you'll see them all over.
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Russet Mite control:
Royalty and Perring (1987) evaluated five acaricides on tomato russet mite and a tydeid mite predator, Homeopronematus anconai. For tomato russet mite, avermectin B1 (Avid, Agrimer) was the most toxic, followed by dicofol, cyhexatin, sulfur, and thuringiensin. According to their study, selective doses of Avermectin B1 could provide good control of tomato russet mite while conserving a predator of the tomato russet mite, H. anconai.
Looks like Avid plus predators would work very well.
http://www.extento.hawaii.edu/kbase/crop/Type/a_lycope.htm
G
Gifted0ne
Anyone know if might wash works for broad mites? I just shot my infected plant with Might wash then washed it down with green stay + Dutchmaster Zone.
Not gonna work....
G
Gifted0ne
Has anyone here tried Zone tho to kill em? its copper sulfate, i guess ill find out.. Sorry 1 more question tho will the heisenberg tea as a foliar do the job??
Under attack right now and not gunna spend $300 on chemicals, 2nd damn time in a row given dirty clones
don't work for broadmites
G
Gifted0ne
Damn guess they will be going in the trash then. Maybe ill dunk them in bleach/h202 before trashin them for the hell of it. I guess the whole room is suspect too now.
Clones came from a very well known source too, damn people sellin dirty clones. 2nd time in a row burned by dirty seller.
if you don't have to keep the clones i'd trash em. but if you wanna keep them pickup og biowar foliar pack. spray everything twice a week. you can find it for like $35 which you can use for like 3 months. good luck!
Bingo, other things gave me relief. But Kontos watered in a 1ml/gal on my infected moms finally made them go away. Probably a month later and my mom room looks to be BM free. I still spray my captain jacks with spinosad for preventative once a week as well.
The question is: how long does Kontos linger in the plants, and what are the possible hazards?
Don't throw your infected clones away unless they are too damaged.
One dip in Avid and they will be bug free for 30 days. Heat treat the room. Start a pest management program in your room(s)
Done deal.
One dip in Avid and they will be bug free for 30 days. Heat treat the room. Start a pest management program in your room(s)
Done deal.
I will never flower the moms I treated, I will take a new set of clones here soon and make those the new moms. Some of my moms are of my outdoor strains and wont flower again for a year or so, hopefully that is enough time/generations for it to get out of its system.
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