Broad Mites?

[Thomas Paine]

Update

Update

Update #3


Double Dream

Older BM damaged leaves:

Old BM damage with some residual OGBiowar talc on the leaves.

4 weeks ago, same plant:

 

[Thomas Paine]

Nice, I've seen most of your posts and I believe you tried the poison and biowar route, what do you attribute to your success.

Avid and OGBiowar.

Outdoors I used the OGBiowar and Predator Mites after the initial Avid treatment.

Heat treatment to treat the empty room.

I'l post pics of the room tomorrow, it's all smaller plants in there though.

 

[Thomas Paine]

Update

Update

Update #4

Blue Dream

Got 6 of these in 25 gallon pots.

Older bleached out looking BM damage that never came back:

Same plant 4 weeks ago:

 

[DoobieGrower]

Ogbiowar full strength twice per week for about a month and then only once per week. It works. I also released a 100 pack of swirski mites (25,000) for 11 outdoor ladies. All doing great at this time. It works. I now have other natural predators entering the garden such as green lacewings.

 

[Thomas Paine]

I threw out all large moms and any old plants that were too big to achieve 100% coverage (almost everything except for a few small teens).
This was the only way I was sure I would achieve 100% coverage to the plants... my moms were just too big, and I had four 4'x4's of them.

Avid for the initial outbreak, and 1 week later.

OGBiowar for pest management and control.

Heat treatment to the grow room.

Washed all my re-used smart pots in the washer on HOT and threw them in the dryer on HOT.

No lemons from outside brought in my house (my lemon tree has BM's)

Success !

These things are actually pretty easy to control, not much different than normal spider mites or fungus gnats. They do more damage of course, and faster, but with diligence they are easily taken care of. However, they are in the environment everywhere, so you need to instill a proper pest management program (weekly) into your grow schedule. Never leave dead plant material in your rooms, and dip any incoming genetics in Avid.

The more clean you are, the more success you'll have.

Clean is Green ! and Green is MONEY !!!

 

[SooperSmurph]

Perhaps treat your lemon tree at the end of harvest season with something nasty and systemic (high dose neem or kontos), then the mites may have a harder time wintering outdoors on her, and next season have clean fruit come in?

 

[Thomas Paine]

Perhaps treat your lemon tree at the end of harvest season with something nasty and systemic (high dose neem or kontos), then the mites may have a harder time wintering outdoors on her, and next season have clean fruit come in?

Kontos, as a systemic pesticide sounds like it would be perfect.
But I just read the label and it says it is for application to only non-fruit and nut bearing trees and plants. Looks like it may be bad to eat the fruit for up to a year if it's treated with Kontos.

I've been spraying it with the OGBiowar, it seems to be making a HUGE difference. New growth everywhere, and lots of normal looking lemons (a few still drop that are mishappen)

I'll snap some pics of the tree to show you before and after pics.

OGBiowar to the rescue !

 

[sunset limited]

Soil Drench with Kontos.... Systemic action with Zero Stress ....

These guys are now a joke to deal with ... Do whatever it takes to reduce the initial population down as much as possible... heat treatment... Avid... Triple Action Neem... Pylon.. etc... one application of any of the contact killers should give you enough time for the Kontos to work its magic... and from that point on... all you need to do is apply this stuff once in veg once you have them under control and you'll be stress free finally ..

I got a liter of the stuff for $250! Thank You Panda Land for thinking patents are whack

at .5ml - 1ml per gallon... shit will last forever

Oh yeah and it protects against Root Aphids... systemic action... cant ask for anything more

^^^dude hasn't chimed in for awhile now.

has anyone else figured out where to source this stuff at a price in this ballpark?

and WTF is pandaland? i am so out of touch.

 

[whatthe215]

lookin into it now Sunset.

this kontos seems to be the BUSINESS!

from http://www.rsc.org/chemistryworld/Issues/2007/November/NewInsecticidesGetReadyForMarket.asp

"Bayer's latest insecticide is also a member of a known insecticide family, structurally modified to boost its properties. Where Bayer's first two tetronic acid-based insecticides, spirodiclofen and spiromesifen [Forbid/Judo], coat the leaf surface, new family member spirotetramat is actually taken up by the plant.

The compound is then carried around the plant, including into roots and newly-forming shoots, giving sucking insect pest like aphids and whitefly an unpleasant surprise. The compounds work by inhibiting lipid biosysnthesis, affecting reproduction in adults and especially juveniles."

I've found Spirotetramat sold under the names... Kontos, Movento, and Ultor so far.

Kontos and Movento are 22.4% Spirotetramat while Ultor is 14.5% Spirotetramat.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

aaaaaand here's the answer we're all looking for...

i believe the panda land he is referring to is Alibaba.

lol chinese manufacturers selling this stuff by the kilo. 99% pure Spirotetramat powder... $50-100 per kilo.

 

[eric2028]

you can find kontos @ domyownpestcontrol.com along with pretty much everything else. FYI

 

[knubs]

well between the forbid and kontos my plants are looking pretty messed up. not a lot of BM's but a lot of toxicity. i had one strain in particular (concrete leopard) that got damaged pretty bad from the forbid. the kontos affected a couple strains as well. i sprayed the kontos, but i am switching to drenching with it instead now at 1ml per gallon.


also does anyone know if a cottonwood tree can be infected with broad mites?

 

[RetroGrow]

lookin into it now Sunset.

this kontos seems to be the BUSINESS!

from http://www.rsc.org/chemistryworld/Issues/2007/November/NewInsecticidesGetReadyForMarket.asp

"Bayer's latest insecticide is also a member of a known insecticide family, structurally modified to boost its properties. Where Bayer's first two tetronic acid-based insecticides, spirodiclofen and spiromesifen [Forbid/Judo], coat the leaf surface, new family member spirotetramat is actually taken up by the plant.

The compound is then carried around the plant, including into roots and newly-forming shoots, giving sucking insect pest like aphids and whitefly an unpleasant surprise. The compounds work by inhibiting lipid biosysnthesis, affecting reproduction in adults and especially juveniles."

I've found Spirotetramat sold under the names... Kontos, Movento, and Ultor so far.

Kontos and Movento are 22.4% Spirotetramat while Ultor is 14.5% Spirotetramat.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

aaaaaand here's the answer we're all looking for...

i believe the panda land he is referring to is Alibaba.

lol chinese manufacturers selling this stuff by the kilo. 99% pure Spirotetramat powder... $50-100 per kilo.

Question is, do you really want to smoke and/or ingest herb that has this poison in it, as any systemic will?

 

[Thomas Paine]

well between the forbid and kontos my plants are looking pretty messed up. not a lot of BM's but a lot of toxicity. i had one strain in particular (concrete leopard) that got damaged pretty bad from the forbid. the kontos affected a couple strains as well. i sprayed the kontos, but i am switching to drenching with it instead now at 1ml per gallon.

It is my belief that Forbid causes too much damage to be used on most plants. I won't use it again on cannabis. Try it yourself, spray one plant, don't spray the other. Watch as damage appears on the treated plant 2-3 days later and the plant stop growing for a over a week.

Abemectin showed the least phyto-toxicity of any poison I used and yielded the best results.

 

[sunset limited]

something we can agree on. wow.

 

[Some old dude]

OR......

OR......

something we can agree on. wow.

Or.....People could just do as I have tried to explain from the start when I use to use toxin's to kill the BM's. Use Forbid/Judo/Oberon...and the last one Oberon is the exact same as Forbid and Judo just at half strength and approved to use on vegetables .So you would use about half of the recommended dose of Forbid or judo and you would not soak the plant only mist the plant yes there will be a slight slump in health for a few days . It worked for me for years. And another optimum word here is years. It would kill them off completely for about six months or so(Always to return). Now I'm using the "Hippy Bro science method"...and have not used toxins for a year at least now and my environment is clean again after 5 year battle and I sleep well knowing whoever gets my meds are safe from toxins .

 

[Thomas Paine]

something we can agree on. wow.

All good Sunset.

I appreciate informed people like yourself more that you know.

Good luck with your forum GSC seeds, I bet they're going to be dank !

 

[Last stand]

Well I really feel like crying right now, I wish I had broad mites because these cyclamens are showstoppers. All my stuff looked pretty good after a total shutdown cleaning, all new equipment and new seeds. Two weeks in they showed up but I got to spraying avid, pylon,forbid, akari, and a few days ago a kontos drench. I flipped two days ago so I'm spraying OGbiowar but I cant find any info on Beauveria bassiana killing cyclamen, it does seem to do in the broads from what I hear. right after flip I'm seeing lighter green new growth and some old leaves are clawing. I don't know what to do, this has been my hobby and passion since the 90's and it's how I feed my family. I have a dino lite scope but I cant find anything even between 200-220x magnification. I have 100,000 Neoseiulus californicus sachets coming but I really feel helpless and desperate. Gonna try heat today and I'd like to try the safer sulfur but thats a fungicide and I don't know if the biowars doing it's thing.

 

[MichaelVick]

Hey guys. I have been battling broad or cyclamen mites now for 3 harvests. After seriously questioning my skills I found this thread and figured out the problem. Thanks to everyone for the advice and info.

I have successfully knocked back the mites a few times in veg and early flower using Avid/Pylon/Attain/Forbid/Heat Treatments but they keep coming back when I stop treating in flower. My 40x scope doesn't do the best job for identifying eggs and I am sure I've killed a lot of them so I am unsure what type of mites they are but the symptoms are consistent with everything on this thread. When I do see something that could be an egg it doesn't have the "bumps" of broad mites so I am guessing they are cyclamen mites. Now I have a few questions:

1) The OGBiowar sounds like a good solution at this point for early flower. I am considering the foliar spray. I understand that I need to foliar spray on a 5day/5day/7day/7day/14day schedule but can I just spray the tops of the leaves or do I need to get underneath? Do I really need to keep the room at or above 60% humidity? How is everyone accomplishing that? Mine likes to dip down to 40% daily.

2) Does anyone have positive confirmation that the OGB works on Cyclamen Mites?

3) I am also considering the Neoseiulus Californicus predators for flower. How long do I need to wait after applying Avid/Forbid before releasing them? Won't the mitacides kill the predators?

4) For the heat treatment my room temps vary drastically from floor to ceiling. When my canopy thermometer under direct light is reading 120deg I have other thermometers at the very bottom of the plant (sitting on the hydroton in the shade) that are reading 105deg. Where does it need to read 115-120deg? Should I heat the room up so the bottom of the plants is 120deg? That will mean the canopy is 130-140deg!

Thanks again for everyone's help. Together we will beat these bastards!

 

[RetroGrow]

You should not be applying poisons in flower. Period.
You need to get a better scope, as it seems you are not really sure what you have. You can ONLY confirm broads or cyclamen with a scope. Going by symptoms is just guesswork. Get a decent scope, 100X or more and stop playing the "guessing game". It's easy to tell the difference between broad & cyclamen mite eggs, and it's easy to tell the difference between trichomes and eggs, yet people seem to still have problems with it. Get a better scope is all I can say.
About heat treatment: you want canopy @ 120F. Hot air rises, so it will always be cooler on the floor if plants are on the floor. I recommend raising them off the floor, using milk crates or inverted pots, and maybe some boards/cinderblocks. Whatever you have to do to raise them off the floor, do it. Then they won't be stuck down there in the "cold" air. Monitor temps in several places, and try to keep everything at, or close to 120F.

 

[eric2028]

Hey guys. I have been battling broad or cyclamen mites now for 3 harvests. After seriously questioning my skills I found this thread and figured out the problem. Thanks to everyone for the advice and info.

I have successfully knocked back the mites a few times in veg and early flower using Avid/Pylon/Attain/Forbid/Heat Treatments but they keep coming back when I stop treating in flower. My 40x scope doesn't do the best job for identifying eggs and I am sure I've killed a lot of them so I am unsure what type of mites they are but the symptoms are consistent with everything on this thread. When I do see something that could be an egg it doesn't have the "bumps" of broad mites so I am guessing they are cyclamen mites. Now I have a few questions:

1) The OGBiowar sounds like a good solution at this point for early flower. I am considering the foliar spray. I understand that I need to foliar spray on a 5day/5day/7day/7day/14day schedule but can I just spray the tops of the leaves or do I need to get underneath? Do I really need to keep the room at or above 60% humidity? How is everyone accomplishing that? Mine likes to dip down to 40% daily.

2) Does anyone have positive confirmation that the OGB works on Cyclamen Mites?

3) I am also considering the Neoseiulus Californicus predators for flower. How long do I need to wait after applying Avid/Forbid before releasing them? Won't the mitacides kill the predators?

4) For the heat treatment my room temps vary drastically from floor to ceiling. When my canopy thermometer under direct light is reading 120deg I have other thermometers at the very bottom of the plant (sitting on the hydroton in the shade) that are reading 105deg. Where does it need to read 115-120deg? Should I heat the room up so the bottom of the plants is 120deg? That will mean the canopy is 130-140deg!

Thanks again for everyone's help. Together we will beat these bastards!

u should spray ogbw twice a week for active infestation. for a month or so. ive been at it for a few weeks and its def helped a lot. im also not sure if I have broad or cyclamen mites. treatment is the same anyhow. no experience on heat tx. good luck!