Broad mites thread part 2

[the gnome]

Bubba maniac... Horticultural oil is a very important part of the broad mite ipm. It suffocates the adults but more importantly the eggs. The ovacidal effect is what your missing in the routine mentioned above. I use suffoil X brand sprayed at 80ml per gal for knockdown and 40ml per gal to dunk clones or small plants. Stopping the eggs from hatching is key to population reduction.

If you read the label for avid or forbid they will tell you to knock back an infestation with horticulture oil first before you start the pesticide rotations. It's the back bone your ipm has been missing IMO.

Not all brands are good for cannabis. Some are too greasy and will cook your leaves. Always spray oils after lights out. Also, it's not for flower only veg plants.

sage advice nobody.
Ive been using/advocating ortho brand "volck oil'' for 7yrs now.
it's old school but packs a punch to a huge variety of bugs rusts, molds/mildews like PM
and as said, it's an ovacide.
ortho has stopped making it,
bonide is what I'm using now, get it at lowes/home depot

because of it's ovacidal properties in theory you could eradicate BMs using hort oil by disrupting their life cycle.
btw,
forbid is an ovacide also.

take heed to nobody's advice
be careful spraying lights on
also spraying too heavy can burn leaves.
of course I take the plants outside and use one of those hose spraying devices that meters the amt.
so you can really drown the plants

I find 3tbs per gal. is a good all around dose

 

[ganjourno]

Edit - removing due to bad info, apologies

 

[LilTia]

Hy desperate friend... I respost my reply from another 3D on this fucking argument.

2 years of War! I try everything you say. Heat treatment, all the chemical product with different rotation avid abamectin spinosat floramite, and Many Many oder and with different rotation . Also for every day! The situation with chemical control go quickly down... They re produce too much quickly. In 1 week The chemical treatment become fresh water and The situation was better without! Never heard people really completly resolve with chemical. The beauveria and orher entompathogen work only a littlebit and need for all The time high UR and 23C degrees. Than some day you are another time at The start. I try Many amblyseyus californicus swirskii cucumeris andersoni! The only function is The andersoni. I use ever with cucumeris but only The andersoni is important. The californicus not function... Swirskii is difficult to say. You need put andersoni about Every 2-3month. Important never forget order because when you resee The sintoms is too late and to resolve need 2-3week for toxin digestion of The plant! The problem for Many people wan use this metod is They come by Chem treatment and need wait some time. You can use beauveria or similar during this time. I know heat treatment is good method but is better pass after abamectin, with hot They take better... I never use I need to save about 20mother of rare genetic and can't burn all or get away all... The war is not finish for me but I start another time to be happy person. Try to believe. Thanks and sorry for mu bad english and remember NEVER GIVE UP!

 

[Dankwolf]

If you verify you have them i would recommend the 3 day rule . #1 get some blue dawn soap . #2 get a mister or pump sprayer . #3 get some neem oil if you can . for 3 days straight spray dawn soap mixed with water (1 tbs dawn soap per gallon of water). Then for 6 days spray with dawn soap 1tbs a gallon and 1 tbs a gallon neem oil alternating water every other with strait water . the after that spray just water every 3rd day for 9 days . make sure to spray under leafs and grow room with mix. Also spray right at lights out or pull lights up if possible. Clean grow room , all equipment , house , close and keep things clean . you can get rid of them if you have them . get on it soon if its mites .mites have a tendency to get immune to treatments of just one product . u might want to incorperate a preventative maintenance program of spraying neem 1tbs per gallon and dawn soap 1 tbs per gallon (in the same gallon ) every 20 days or so in veg room . flowering room is a bit different . i dont like to use sprays in flower unless absolutely necessary after week 5-6 of flowing . mites breed fast in dry hot weather. I have had them many times ( usually from gifted clones lol ) and got rid of the 100% in 30 days .good luck hope this helped?

 

[Loc Dog]

Posting so I can follow you guys. I just lost 16 plants. Posted picture of one of the tops, and guy in Italy instantly said broad mites. Broke out scope, and found right away. Have a lot of the stuff you guys mentioned, Green Cleaner, Pyrethrin, Spinosad, Neem Oil, Several other oils, Azamax, and Guardian which supposed to be organic, but secret ingredient is Avid. Just ordered Nukem and a fogger.

I only run 2 4X8 tents max. Is there anywhere to get smaller amounts of swirskii's??? I see them for $400 minimum, so hope that would be for full greenhouse.

 

[Coughie]

Posting so I can follow you guys. I just lost 16 plants. Posted picture of one of the tops, and guy in Italy instantly said broad mites. Broke out scope, and found right away. Have a lot of the stuff you guys mentioned, Green Cleaner, Pyrethrin, Spinosad, Neem Oil, Several other oils, Azamax, and Guardian which supposed to be organic, but secret ingredient is Avid. Just ordered Nukem and a fogger.

I only run 2 4X8 tents max. Is there anywhere to get smaller amounts of swirskii's??? I see them for $400 minimum, so hope that would be for full greenhouse.

http://www.evergreengrowers.com/bro...r-broad-mite-control/amblyseius-swirskii.html


25,000 in a 1L container for ~$62

Andersoni, cucumeris, and a few other predators work as well..
I use cucumeris for the slow-release sachets mentioned via PM..

 

[Loc Dog]

http://www.evergreengrowers.com/bro...r-broad-mite-control/amblyseius-swirskii.html


25,000 in a 1L container for ~$62

Andersoni, cucumeris, and a few other predators work as well..
I use cucumeris for the slow-release sachets mentioned via PM..

That is a lot better than I found!!!! What would you breed them in, a mason jar??? I was wondering what the sachets were.

This is the picture, that someone ID'd I had broadmites -

 

[Loc Dog]

I was wondering if people with Broad Mite epidemics adhere to VPD charts. I know I had way too high humidity and heat with no fans.

 

[Intimea]

I was wondering if people with Broad Mite epidemics adhere to VPD charts. I know I had way too high humidity and heat with no fans.

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=51120&pictureid=1650202&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

Obviously, when you're heating the room, you can't stay in the VPD range.

These where my Khalisi (Sanctuary Gardens ) after heat treatment

I kept like this

For a lot of hours.

Edit:

these are the same plants, after some months

 

[Loc Dog]

Obviously, when you're heating the room, you can't stay in the VPD range.

These where my Khalisi (Sanctuary Gardens ) after heat treatment

View Image

I kept like this

View Image

For a lot of hours.

Edit:

these are the same plants, after some months

View Image

My only thought was that too high of humidity and heat, in 85F range would be optimum for them to breed. It was only tent with no fan or cooltube vented out of tent.

Tents with fans and exhausted cooltubes were fine.

 

[Dankwolf]

Mites like it dry . even just treatments of spraying water can help knock them back .

 

[Loc Dog]

I ordered a bunch of stuff to get rid of these bastards. I ordered a Cutter electric insect fogger, that says to only use cutter or black flag insecticide with it. Has anyone used one with neem or other insecticides??? Wondering if I should return before opening it, and get a propane one that does not specify what to use in it.

So far have only found in one tent, that I threw out all plants before identifying as broad mites. Want to use on all plants for at least 6 months just to be careful.

Here is an interesting article, which also mentions soaking young plants or cuttings into 115 degree water for 45 minutes.

http://www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/floriculture/images/10-10_Mites.pdf

 

[Intimea]

Soaking your plants will works for sure

I did it for 20 minutes using hot water (47°C)

Good luck!

 

[Loc Dog]

Soaking your plants will works for sure

View Image

I did it for 20 minutes using hot water (47°C)

Good luck!

I just did it for 45 minutes at 106 to 111 F. I bought a whole bunch of stuff, and will rotate products once a week till sure they are gone.

I have Guardian, which was supposed to be organic, but secret ingredient was Avid. Wondering if I should use that on all vegging plants. It is supposed to neutralize after 30 days, and have 75 days left.

 

[Intimea]

I just did it for 45 minutes at 106 to 111 F. I bought a whole bunch of stuff, and will rotate products once a week till sure they are gone.

I have Guardian, which was supposed to be organic, but secret ingredient was Avid. Wondering if I should use that on all vegging plants. It is supposed to neutralize after 30 days, and have 75 days left.

The secret for a successful prevention routine, is to rotate various insecticides to prevents the pests to develop resistance to that particular active ingredient.

 

[mojave green]

I ordered a bunch of stuff to get rid of these bastards. I ordered a Cutter electric insect fogger, that says to only use cutter or black flag insecticide with it. Has anyone used one with neem or other insecticides??? Wondering if I should return before opening it, and get a propane one that does not specify what to use in it.

So far have only found in one tent, that I threw out all plants before identifying as broad mites. Want to use on all plants for at least 6 months just to be careful.

Here is an interesting article, which also mentions soaking young plants or cuttings into 115 degree water for 45 minutes.

http://www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/floriculture/images/10-10_Mites.pdf

 

[mojave green]

Soaking your plants will works for sure

View Image

I did it for 20 minutes using hot water (47°C)

Good luck!

That looks like a good way to disinfect incoming clones. Does it work on other pests as well I wonder?

 

[Intimea]

That looks like a good way to disinfect incoming clones. Does it work on other pests as well I wonder?

Yep! I think so.

This uses the principle of pasteurization.

Edit:
In my pest management, I always soak the clones in a pesticide solution.
This method is recommended when you don't use a surfactant product with translaminar effect.

If you can get it, I strongly reccomend this one.

 

[Intimea]

I just did it for 45 minutes at 106 to 111 F. I bought a whole bunch of stuff, and will rotate products once a week till sure they are gone.

I have Guardian, which was supposed to be organic, but secret ingredient was Avid. Wondering if I should use that on all vegging plants. It is supposed to neutralize after 30 days, and have 75 days left.

take a look

O.K. I've been following this thread, and reading about some of the newer miticides. Since I completely defeated broad/cyclamen mites years ago, permanently, it's appropriate to post how to completely get rid of them using no pesticides, if you are indoors:
Heat treatment of the plants/room will eradicate them 100%. Plants will not be damaged. Lots of bad information has been posted, so here is how you do it properly:
Room must be heated to 120 F. Not 140, which will damage plants, but 120, which will kill not only the mites and eggs on the plants, but also in the room, which is critical, or they will come back. All fans MUST be turned off, or the plants will be scorched. With A/C and fans off, use extra lights or space heaters to heat the room up to 120F for one hour. It takes some trial and error to get the temps correct, but once dialed in, the procedure can be easily repeated, which should be done every 3 days or so, to kill mites that are newly hatched. I did it 3 times, and all mites in the room were killed. After the heat treatment, plants perked right up. I was at my wits end when I first tried this with all the spraying, which only kills mites on the plant that are exposed to the chems, not the mites which are all over the place in the room/ducting. Heat treatment kills them all. Note that many newer space heaters have a thermistor, which limits the temperature the heater will go to. This can be disabled by opening up the unit. Older space heaters will not have this. I have also used extra lights to get the temps to where they are needed. They don't have to be hung, but can just sit on the floor. If done properly, and repeated a few times every three days,all mites/eggs will be killed. This has been confirmed not only by me, but by many others. No harm will come to the plants if all fans are off. No need to throw tents away or attempt to sterilize equipment. The heat takes care of that. The other thing I've learned, is to use aspirin, which mitigates the effects of the toxins that these mites inject into the plants. One regular, 325 Mg. tablet of aspirin per gallon of water,added to their feed, will make a big difference. Aspirin boosts the plants immune response, as well as being a growth hormone:
" Salicylic acid (SA) is a phenolic phytohormone and is found in plants with roles in plant growth and development, photosynthesis, transpiration, ion uptake and transport. SA also induces specific changes in leaf anatomy and chloroplast structure.[which?] SA is involved in endogenous signaling, mediating in plant defense against pathogens. It plays a role in the resistance to pathogens by inducing the production of pathogenesis-related proteins. It is involved in the systemic acquired resistance (SAR) in which a pathogenic attack on one part of the plant induces resistance in other parts. The signal can also move to nearby plants by salicylic acid being converted to the volatile ester, methyl salicylate".
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salicylic_acid
I use aspirin throughout the grow at all times now.
If you follow this protocol, you will eradicate broad/cyclamen mites. No chemicals necessary. This should be repeated several times to kill any late arrivals/stragglers. Having tried every method to deal with these, this is by far the easiest and most effective.

Once eradicated those bas***rds, you'll can improve you routine.

 

[Loc Dog]

I bought a fogger from Home Depot, but realize that it is only meant to be used with certain insecticide, so will return it.

Does anyone know if a hot mist or cool mist would be better. I have no idea how hot the mist is. The hot ones seem to be for large outdoor areas, where the cool one is designed for indoors.

Also wondered if humidifier might work.

I have tent that is due to be done next week. A couple of plants have mangy little buds. Checked some leave and found nothing living on it, using microscope. Would the mite move to the flowers, and abandon the leaves?