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Broad Mite Eradication

Grateful D

Member
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Is this the one you're using.? Game changer is right. My new toy. I just wanna keep spaying. ! Definitely better than 4 gallon pack pack sprayer. Especially for my indoor room. I like how fine the coverage is..

Naw I had a full size one laying around, it feeds out of a 5gal bucket, and it has a 25 foot hose. the thing is great, i use about 1/3 less spray, it takes me half the time to spray my plants, and it covers more thoroughly and evenly than a hand pump sprayer or atomizer ever did, it looks exactly like this, though mine is a different brand
 
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Grateful D

Member
The plants are starting to look better.... still finding a few eggs here and there, but probably 90% less than I was. Im just going to keep up with the aggressive spraying routine.... Heres some pics. glipping to 12/12 on friday
 

Dr.Snow

Member
sucks

sucks

I know this topic has been beaten like a dead horse on here, I apologize for posting about broad mites again, but i have read the huge broad mite thread and havent had any luck killing them.

LOL just read first and last 30 pages of that monstrosity and am more confused than ever. Seems like solutions to bm are different for every grower. Thanks for posting your results though, good luck.

I caught the onset early here but at 16 days flowering :badday: Weekly neem treatment til flower but no other pesticides used. I guess I'm going to try OGB + heat to keep the crop growing til harvest and something heavier duty on the moms I want to try and keep.

I'm still confused about the aspirin and the 'toxins' that the mites produce, growing in coco dtw, I think I'll try it in the water mix for a few days and see what happens (325mg/gal uncoated).

Good luck in the quest, I know so many peeps want to move to a different hemisphere to solve the problem but it seems like there are many people successfully waging the war without scrapping everything.
 

Dr.Snow

Member
I got russet mites about 6 days ago in my new 8k room. First time ever indoors. About 4 plants out of 48 started showing signs. So of course I've been sick and depressed and scouring the broad mite russet might threads. I've been growing for 20+ years straight I've never lost a grow. It's scary sruff.! It's my bread and butter. It's what I do. I live in Hawaii and grow year round and when I get russets outside on my greenhouse grows ( which is rare ) I simply use one tablespoon of sulfer per gallon and spray and done. One shot. I have super mites here everything is magnified in an tropical environment. But indoors.? Whole different ball game it's the perfect environment for mites to thrive.
In my panic I went and got avid. Never used it before. Did 1.2 mil a gallon and sprayed with light's off and drenched them. The mites took that Avid and rolled a joint with it. Smoked it, and then made a porn vid. Shit didn't do a damn thing. The next day it was worse. And after reading the tons of people that have had no success with it or any of the harsh chemicals. I am not sold. Maybe on an outdoor crop which it's what it's designed for but indoors is not even in same category IMO.
The only success stories i found after researching for ever and sleepless nights is beneficial microorganisms. OG biowar it what was saving peoples lives so I have some already and decided to give it a try. It's working. And I mean working really well.!!
In a 5 gallon bucket with RO water. (Can't use chlorinated water it kills the bennies. ) add 100 mil of black strap non sulfer molasses. Then ph to 6.5 7.0 BEFORE you add the biowar otherwise u have to use half the damn bottle of ph. 6 tablespoons of the biowar then 2 cups of earthworm castings. I put it in a nylon paint strainer bag and it's nice a clean and doesn't disperse on the tea. Or u can use a clean sock. Put an air stone on it for 24 hours. When you're ready to spray Let it all settle for 15 minutes. Pore into sprayer slowly so the sediment stays on bottom. Spray when light's go out. Turn off dehumidifier. And drench the living piss out of the plants top to bottom, under leaves and everything. Let it sit in there and dry slowly. It needs humidity and time to start activating. Make sure it's all dry when light's go on our the light will kill the microbes. Do this for 4 days straight. Then 2 times a week once. Then once a week. I'm on day three and man, I'm sold. It's working like a merical. It makes sense, you create living spores on your plant and it eats the host. It kills PM and mold too. I have new hairs growing on the infected sites where it was just a nub.
So this is what I did after all my research. And I will do this for the rest of my indoor grows always. It's impossible for mites to get a tolerance to this. It spins webs and suffocates them. Unlike Avid and all the other shit people have tried. Fighting nature with nature. Winning.!

Issack you said you had russet mites? These are different than broad mites. Have you tried this with broad mites successfully ? Also are you using the ogb foliar, root, or nute ? ? ? I'm assuming foliar, just wanted to confirm.
 

Grateful D

Member
I was doing good in veg.... but I appear to be losing in flower. 3 weeks in and plants keep looking worse by the day. Turned up edges, waxiness, brown pistols, I feel like im fighting a losing battle.i think i was able to keep them at bay during veg bc they didnt have buds to hide in and the sprays were more effective. Dont know what to do, already threw out the room twice and that didnt fix it. shitty
 

Coughie

Member
There is success in predator mites.. takes a little patience and persistence, there's a method to the madness, but it works... I haven't had broad mites in over a year now, only using predator mites.. And I've quit using predator mites now, with no reemergence of broads..

I used combinations of 2 species, one in slow release packets, one quick release.. for 3 separate applications/orders, spaced 4-6 weeks apart.. I made sure the slow release packets overlapped, the new ones showed up before the old ones depleted.. And when the new ones got there, i would open up the old ones and sprinkle the breeding colonies on the plants, then hang the new sachets.

A. cucumeris
A. swirskii
A. andersoni
N. californicus


I usually used cucumeris slow release sachets and cycled the others through in quick release..


You're probably losing in veg too, vigor-wise, and might not realize it because there's not flowers... easy to do, happened to me, I had broads for a while before I realized it..

It's possible to win with predators..
Just my two cents tho..
 
G

Gr33nSanta

I kicked them out using predator mites and supplemental feeding of cattail pollen.

It took/takes 3-4 orders of predator mites, spaced 3-4 weeks apart, using a combination of quick release canisters and slow-release sachets, to get the job done. Swirskii are expensive, but cucumeris isn't. I used multiple types of mites within each order and didn't always repeat the same types with every order. Cucumeris was a mainstay though, as the slow-release sachets are reasonably priced.

Arbico also sells a predator mite food, if you can't find a high quality pollen source of a type that they'll consume. My source for cattail pollen dried up, for reasons unknown.

I haven't had broad mites since I wrote extensively about predator mites on this forum originally. Several months, now.
Thanks so much, I have never even thought of feeding my predatory mites with pollen. I had done it in the past with ladybugs , but it was never brought to my attention that predatory mites would feed on pollen as well. I am gonna harvest a bunch and freeze a bunch.
 
G

Gr33nSanta

how do you determine how many predator mites to use per square foot?

If you use as preventative, you can use way less. You need to have a source where you can get the bugs within a week if you need them so the minute you notice a baby outbreak you can be proactive about it. Also if you use cucumeris in veg for thrips they will also eat some mites so you can use slightly less predatory mites in flower.
 

Coughie

Member
how do you determine how many predator mites to use per square foot?

Slow release sachets are cheap, so I hung 1-2 sachets per plant - 1 per clone, 2 on small plants..

And then I completely overkilled the fast release too, using a full 1L canister per 4x4 tent..



The other key to all this is to limit the plant surface area, so keep as much as you can in clone-size or small plant size, so the predators dont have to look through full grown plants as much


They recommend lower numbers, but those are for preventative measures... "An invasion" like D-Day is more applicable for this scenario..
 

zoo

Active member
Predator mites are not a good solution. Only good to salvage what you can of a crop that is already in flower. Will not eradicate broads
 

issack

Active member
Veteran
Issack you said you had russet mites? These are different than broad mites. Have you tried this with broad mites successfully ? Also are you using the ogb foliar, root, or nute ? ? ? I'm assuming foliar, just wanted to confirm.
I did the kill with just the foliar pack. And they were 3 weeks into flower when I did the 4 day spray.
IMO a mite is a mite. And those microscopic little bastards don't really have a chance when beneficial bacteria takes over and spins webs around them. it's the same thing in my book. If you get down to the fundamental science of what it does. It has the same effect on all mites. I had some broads on one of my plants in my greenhouse last week and I did a spray with the tea when the sun went down and let it soak. Didbthat for 2 days and white hairs are back and looks like nothing ever happened.
I've also killed and had great success with killing broad mites with weteble sulfer. And only one application. But.. That is only on outdoor grows that worked. Indoors they just laughed at me ..
 

Grateful D

Member
in the process of trying the OGBIoware recipe you recommended right now Issack. Today was the 1st of the 4 days of spray. hopefully i get some positive results bc nothing else has worked
 

GuyManDude

Active member
I took all my plants and toosed them into the fire pit. Then I removed all m=lant material and soil from my house.Then I shop vac'd everything, sprayed with bleach, then let my rooms sit empty for 3 months.

no more broad mites. I tried friggin everything too - Avid, Forbid, Green Cleaner, etc.

nothing worked except the clean out
 

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