-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
PHB
Member
Great thread Bree, thanks for letting me know about it. I like the way you have integrated a 2nd chamber to handle spill over and gauge CO2 output. I have a bunch of questions...
How long did your 5gal containers usually last when you were using them?
Do you have any problems keeping your ppm high enough with the open circulation system you run?
Lastly, do you have any experience using this setup in a much smaller space like a micro grow? I imagine the CO2 buildup using yeast is a slow gradual process and in a smaller space (like 4 square feet) where the air is recycled several times a minute it would be difficult to keep a high CO2 level.
The pics are great, the more the better.
Thanks,
PHB
How long did your 5gal containers usually last when you were using them?
Do you have any problems keeping your ppm high enough with the open circulation system you run?
Lastly, do you have any experience using this setup in a much smaller space like a micro grow? I imagine the CO2 buildup using yeast is a slow gradual process and in a smaller space (like 4 square feet) where the air is recycled several times a minute it would be difficult to keep a high CO2 level.
The pics are great, the more the better.
Thanks,
PHB
G
Guest
Hello Everyone.... Good comments and ideas and questions....
Hello Everyone.... Good comments and ideas and questions....
I will do my best not to pass up questions or comments.
First, hello to TrueBlue, Simply, Delta again, Haps, TrippyHippy again, alphacat, PHB.
Delta--great idea using bacteria instead, and I like the idea of acidophilus. I think I will set up a small system and try that out a bit. I had thought of the idea because you can't buffer the alcohol very easily but I couldn't think of a bacteria that would be benign enough..... an ah ha moment .... thanks.
Haps-- You should have seen when I had a big room. 12 x14x 8, we used a plastic 55gal drum. Now that was work but the return was definitely worth it.
Simply-- yes I buy the sugar and yeast in bulk. I buy at Sam's or Safeway which ever is cheaper. It is usually around 10$ for a 25# bag... don't remember on the yeast but it is cheap at Sam's for 2 lb size.
alphacat--thanks for coming. Everyone should know alphacat has given me some great conversation on this subject so far. I have ordered some champagne yeast at his suggestion but due to a mess up it has not arrived yet, but am looking forward to the assessment of the difference vs cost which is considerable.
PHB--good questions and some common among others so I will do a paragraph or two at the bottom to answer.
I have used 5 gal buckets in the past but they are hard to seal air tight, I know that seems hard to believe because the lids are so hard to get off. I ended up having to duct tape very tightly several times to make them air tight once they had been used a few times. I usually put 3# of sugar in and about 30cc of yeast or 1 tablespoon. It was a bit touchy, if the water was started too warm it would boil over into the next container. The smaller the original container the touchier it is. The 5gal would last about a week but stronger of course at the beginning and slower at the end. I did not have a meter back then.
Temperature is key to how fast the yeast generate enough alcohol before it kills them off. If too hot, the solution can burn out in 3 days, if too cold it will last a long time but CO2 output is slower and inadequate.
My 30 gal container keeps my 32in x 59.5 in x 8ft high room at 1250 to 2000 but this is with constant air flow vented passively into the room. I control the speed of the fan to balance the temp between 85-89f and keep the CO2 flowing. This is my flower room. I ran 4 plants of Blueberry from Dutch Passion that I do not recommend. Stem snapping dry, with personal stash no stem manicure... I netted just over 18oz in 60 days. I use heating pads on timers... I turn them on high for 15min every 1 hour when lights 24/7. When budding I do 15 min every 2 hours and 1.5 hr before light I give them two 30min heating cycles separated by 30min cool.... 1.5 hours before dark I give no heat and the first 15 min heating cycle is 30 min after dark. This conserves the yeast and sugar solution for the light cycles.
You can use this for micro-grows too. This is how I started. My nursery is 3ft x 4ft x 2.5 ft high and ran with floros. I germ and clone in here but sometimes like this last time the clones got way to big. I didn't use CO2 on them because I was trying to slow them down, even used 1/2 strength of usual for nutes...... Anyway. I set up a 1 gal jug of sugar and yeast filled 3/4 full and do the same set up as the other. One of the differences is I put the hose around the tops of the plants with small holes so the CO2 is delivered to fall on the plants and then I use a small fan to blow it around to get it to the underside of the leaves where the stomata take it in. It doesn't seem like this would be enough to do much but trust me..... you see a difference in a couple of days when you add it and are trying to hurry a bunch of clones along. I have a pic of this simple system and will post it. I put about 2-3 cups of sugar in and place it near a ballast or something warm. My humidifier usually mixes the air enough to do the job of moving the air. Watch out using too warm or to cold water.... one it will spill in second container and other they won't start and create CO2. You will get the temp part quickly. If it doesn't start because too cold, just place a heating pad on it for 6 hours and it will look like a soda in a glass.
By the way thank you all for the rep points....I do appreciate them.
Tomorrow I will start the room set up and Aero build. The plants have only been in their new home a couple of days and are already rebounding.
TBug and IGT---I have the pump on 15min and off 15 min with light and pump 24/7 does that sound like it will jump start them?
Peace
Hello Everyone.... Good comments and ideas and questions....
I will do my best not to pass up questions or comments.
First, hello to TrueBlue, Simply, Delta again, Haps, TrippyHippy again, alphacat, PHB.
Delta--great idea using bacteria instead, and I like the idea of acidophilus. I think I will set up a small system and try that out a bit. I had thought of the idea because you can't buffer the alcohol very easily but I couldn't think of a bacteria that would be benign enough..... an ah ha moment .... thanks.
Haps-- You should have seen when I had a big room. 12 x14x 8, we used a plastic 55gal drum. Now that was work but the return was definitely worth it.
Simply-- yes I buy the sugar and yeast in bulk. I buy at Sam's or Safeway which ever is cheaper. It is usually around 10$ for a 25# bag... don't remember on the yeast but it is cheap at Sam's for 2 lb size.
alphacat--thanks for coming. Everyone should know alphacat has given me some great conversation on this subject so far. I have ordered some champagne yeast at his suggestion but due to a mess up it has not arrived yet, but am looking forward to the assessment of the difference vs cost which is considerable.
PHB--good questions and some common among others so I will do a paragraph or two at the bottom to answer.
I have used 5 gal buckets in the past but they are hard to seal air tight, I know that seems hard to believe because the lids are so hard to get off. I ended up having to duct tape very tightly several times to make them air tight once they had been used a few times. I usually put 3# of sugar in and about 30cc of yeast or 1 tablespoon. It was a bit touchy, if the water was started too warm it would boil over into the next container. The smaller the original container the touchier it is. The 5gal would last about a week but stronger of course at the beginning and slower at the end. I did not have a meter back then.
Temperature is key to how fast the yeast generate enough alcohol before it kills them off. If too hot, the solution can burn out in 3 days, if too cold it will last a long time but CO2 output is slower and inadequate.
My 30 gal container keeps my 32in x 59.5 in x 8ft high room at 1250 to 2000 but this is with constant air flow vented passively into the room. I control the speed of the fan to balance the temp between 85-89f and keep the CO2 flowing. This is my flower room. I ran 4 plants of Blueberry from Dutch Passion that I do not recommend. Stem snapping dry, with personal stash no stem manicure... I netted just over 18oz in 60 days. I use heating pads on timers... I turn them on high for 15min every 1 hour when lights 24/7. When budding I do 15 min every 2 hours and 1.5 hr before light I give them two 30min heating cycles separated by 30min cool.... 1.5 hours before dark I give no heat and the first 15 min heating cycle is 30 min after dark. This conserves the yeast and sugar solution for the light cycles.
You can use this for micro-grows too. This is how I started. My nursery is 3ft x 4ft x 2.5 ft high and ran with floros. I germ and clone in here but sometimes like this last time the clones got way to big. I didn't use CO2 on them because I was trying to slow them down, even used 1/2 strength of usual for nutes...... Anyway. I set up a 1 gal jug of sugar and yeast filled 3/4 full and do the same set up as the other. One of the differences is I put the hose around the tops of the plants with small holes so the CO2 is delivered to fall on the plants and then I use a small fan to blow it around to get it to the underside of the leaves where the stomata take it in. It doesn't seem like this would be enough to do much but trust me..... you see a difference in a couple of days when you add it and are trying to hurry a bunch of clones along. I have a pic of this simple system and will post it. I put about 2-3 cups of sugar in and place it near a ballast or something warm. My humidifier usually mixes the air enough to do the job of moving the air. Watch out using too warm or to cold water.... one it will spill in second container and other they won't start and create CO2. You will get the temp part quickly. If it doesn't start because too cold, just place a heating pad on it for 6 hours and it will look like a soda in a glass.
By the way thank you all for the rep points....I do appreciate them.
Tomorrow I will start the room set up and Aero build. The plants have only been in their new home a couple of days and are already rebounding.
TBug and IGT---I have the pump on 15min and off 15 min with light and pump 24/7 does that sound like it will jump start them?
Peace
Last edited:
High bree! I am a little confused on your timer question...(stoned i guess..lol). Is it 15on/15off or is it always on? Mine is always on ALL the time. IGT let his go off for what I believe was TOO long. His roots also grew out of control(Is there a conection...we are still debating. lol). If youve got optimal res temps(67*), I say let her rip! but if not perfect temp, run it like an hour on and 15min off. Peace and I hope that helps, TBug
Yeah I didnt follow that either. 15/15 or is it on 24/7? You should be fine with 15/15 all the time if your timer (and pump) can handle it. Thats a lot of on and off. Im now letting mine run the whole time the light is on.
Im still not sure if theres a connection between pump time and the roots directly. The really big roots were from the Cali Orange so I expected she would have a massive rootball, being that she was 8 feet tall when I cut her. I think the connection may be more that the sprayers dont put out enough water for a sativa, especially if the sativa is on the farthest hole. My Cali only got sprayed by two sprayers and had no runoff water like the other plants down the posts. So its probably a combination of having the wrong plant in the wrong hole and not getting enough water as a result. Would 24/7 have helped? Probably a little but big trees need big water and the end hole just couldnt supply enough water. Hope that makes sense. Avoid putting your bigger plants on the last holes.
Im still not sure if theres a connection between pump time and the roots directly. The really big roots were from the Cali Orange so I expected she would have a massive rootball, being that she was 8 feet tall when I cut her. I think the connection may be more that the sprayers dont put out enough water for a sativa, especially if the sativa is on the farthest hole. My Cali only got sprayed by two sprayers and had no runoff water like the other plants down the posts. So its probably a combination of having the wrong plant in the wrong hole and not getting enough water as a result. Would 24/7 have helped? Probably a little but big trees need big water and the end hole just couldnt supply enough water. Hope that makes sense. Avoid putting your bigger plants on the last holes.
G
Guest
IGT and TBug you have me laughing out loud just sitting here by myself
IGT and TBug you have me laughing out loud just sitting here by myself
Yes I was refering to the 15min on and 15min off of the pump. I can see your point IGT about wear and tear on the pump. I am doing it for heat reasons. The res. even though very insulated and fresh air crosses it, it keeps climbing up. I am doing the frozen ice gallon jugs. They work nice if I change every 12hrs.
IGT-- You hit my life story, wrong damn tree in the wrong damn hole, well that is a different thread.
VT-- I am going to go into the construction and set up of the room tonight. I think I have if figured pretty good. I will sure take some good input though. Always tinkering and improving and could always use other ideas or instuctions.
Peace
IGT and TBug you have me laughing out loud just sitting here by myself
Yes I was refering to the 15min on and 15min off of the pump. I can see your point IGT about wear and tear on the pump. I am doing it for heat reasons. The res. even though very insulated and fresh air crosses it, it keeps climbing up. I am doing the frozen ice gallon jugs. They work nice if I change every 12hrs.
IGT-- You hit my life story, wrong damn tree in the wrong damn hole, well that is a different thread.
VT-- I am going to go into the construction and set up of the room tonight. I think I have if figured pretty good. I will sure take some good input though. Always tinkering and improving and could always use other ideas or instuctions.
Peace
G
Guest
Hello Everyone.... Thanks to Everyone for stopping by....
Hello Everyone.... Thanks to Everyone for stopping by....
Well it is time to get started on the room set up and the system set up. This is not a DIY thread but I think it will be good to get ideas and input on how I can improve it, plus someone else might get an idea or two.
I first have to say thank you to TBug and ItsGrowTime for all the ideas and an unnamed Brand Name system.
I am just a bit distracted..... I built my own Ozone generator and it is a huge one. There is 3 inches between the outside jar and the inside jar and there are blue arcs going everywhere. Sort of like one of those balls you can touch and the electrical sparks go to your hand but I think if these went to your hand your hand would be crispy and you would be dead as hell.
Anyway.......
All these parts can be found at Home Depot or Lowes.
I started out with 5 in X 5in fence plastic fence posts. They were just over 8ft long which was perfect because my room is 59 in long, so I cut each in half. I also bought some 1/2 in connectors and 1/2 in pipe for the pump and main plumbing. For the nute solution delivery system I bought the thin wall 1/2 in pipe so that it would take up less space in the grow chambers. They have caps that are built for these so I bought one for each of the four ends. Here is a shot of the main ingredients. For anyone that would like a more detailed list of connectors or specific question just PM me.
I then bought a type of drill bit for drilling holes like for door knobs. Because I don't know the correct name I will just call them hole drills. I drilled a 2.5 in hole 4.5 in from each end and then in the middle of each of the next 9in sections. The final one I drilled to 3.5 in so that I could screw in the fine mist nozzles and adjust the drain tubes that are 1.5 in each and pass through the bottom where a 1.5 in grommet allows it to move. In case of emergency you could raise the drain spouts inside the grow chamber and hold water there in case of pump failure or other issue. I then hole drilled a 1/2 in hole towards the top on each end of the end caps. A rubber grommet was also placed in this. I chose not to glue anything in place so that it could be broken down between grows for scrubbing and for any equipment failure. I drew a line down the middle of each of the 1/2 in nute delivery line then drilled a hole on each side of the holes in the posts for pots. I wanted two in case any plugged, just a little insurance. I taped each of the holes I drilled so they had threads to screw the fine mister heads into each. Here are a couple of pictures up to this point:
This is looking into one of the larger holes and you can see the nute delivery pipe and a single fine mist nozzle--each nozzle is fine mist with a 7gph flow.
Here are two of the root chambers, you can see that the nute delivery pipe passes through both ends of the chamber through grommet which are air and water tight but still able to be moved and rotated to direct the spray. The right side is capped but I used pure silicon so they could still be removed fairly easy. The left side was left long and was cut when plumbing connected.
Here you can see the various connectors at various stages. I used a slip on fitting on the thin 1/2in pipe for ease of assembly and dis-assembly. You can also see the 1.5 in drainage grommets through the large holes and the 1/2in grommets in the ends of the caps.
One of the tweaks I thought I would do was I wrapped each grow chamber in the silver bubble insulation and cut holes and used white duct tape to seal the edges. Here are a couple of pics.
I used some of the wire shelf type metal framing to hold the chambers above the reservoir and humidifier. The first pic has the passive intake silver duct and the reservoir with the metal framing above. The second just shows the other end metal framing. The reservoir is just a cheap Wallys container painted with Krylon white. I know, I know...... light in the reservoir. I have never had trouble as long as I put the white Krylon. Luck maybe but ten years and that's a hell of a lot of luck.
I try to keep everything in the room white except the plants.
Here is the inside of my reservoir. I have a 595 gph magnadrive motor from Homedepot. It has a filter but I added a pair of nylons to the filter for extra filtration. $1.00 per pair and the super shear have smaller webbing than I have seen in some of the expensive filters. I have 4 air stones with a dedicated Gen Hydro pump keeping the water looking like a witch's cauldron.
I am also putting a foot of the panty hoses at the end of each of the ends of the 1.5in drains for each of the root chambers.
Here is the way it looks so far all the regular 1/2 in tubing is held together with pure silicon. In the bottom right you can see the humidifier. All the air would be waisted blowing straight up through a few plants if it were not for the next tweak. The root chambers are insulated with what equals I think R12 which is pretty damn good but need to keep the air dispersed. So here is the pic of so far.
Now here is the tweak.... I couldn't stand waisting that much light bouncing down on the floor between the root chambers so I bought this cool ass thin board that has multi holes in it. I laid it over the chambers and traced out the grow chamber holes.... then used my dremel to cut them out. Love that dremel. See what a difference if makes with light lose.
Here is one final shot of the main mechanisms, the tape I put on the right corner of the reservoir. As I dump water in I mark its level, I just pull the tape down to know how much is needed to add back.
You can see the four air lines enter just below the top of the res on the left side. This air is pumped from outside the room. This prevents the CO2 from dissolving or even diffusing into the res due to the positive pressure of the air always pushing out of the res.
I wanted the same thing for my root chambers. In another thread we determined that diffusion of CO2 into the res. and the root atmosphere causes acidosis, mild carbonic acid, and worst of all intracellular acidosis that effects are unknown but are very bad as far as cation and anion (nutes) movements in humans and animal species. So as a result I drilled a hole in each of the ends of the root chambers opposite of the plumbing side. To this hole I connected one pump each.... bringing together both outlets in a T formation and injecting fresh air into the root chambers.... thus causing again a positive pressure environment preventing diffusion of CO2 into the root chambers. I tested this by turning off all fans and placing an incense next to the hydroton and there was a noticeable pushing away of the smoke, the same was found in any slight opening in the reservoir. I am fairly confident it is enough air flow to keep the CO2 out of the environment. I have not had the pH swings I had in the past but that was DWC and this is Aero so I would say not a fair comparison. Here is the air tube going into one of the root chambers.
One last thing..... My last grow was with Blueberry which these are clones of... I did not like them much. Two Hermies and a bud that went hermie the last two weeks, the rest of the plant was fine. Dutch Passion Blueberry. I am considering this a trial run. I have not shown the plants because they were in the nursery too long and grew up into the floros and got burned badly. They are recovering very quickly in their new homes and are loving life. The Aero has thrown my rhythm off a little. My CO2 levels have been going between 1000 and 1250 the last couple of days. I just need to get my intake and out take with humidity balanced again. Once the plants get bigger they absorb more of the energy so I can slow the expelling of the air which means less pulling in and I am running 2 multi (4 nipple) and 4 other pumps that all were in the room before but I will get it dialed in again. Here is a pic with a CAP 3 showing them in full bloom. In a 32in x 59in x 8ft high area, produced just over 18oz. Here is a pic of the CAP 3 next to a big cola.
Hope I explained things well. I didn't want to much detail because this is not a Do It Yourself thread per say.
Give me some feed back on pace...... too much talking...... too little detail?
Peace
Hello Everyone.... Thanks to Everyone for stopping by....
Well it is time to get started on the room set up and the system set up. This is not a DIY thread but I think it will be good to get ideas and input on how I can improve it, plus someone else might get an idea or two.
I first have to say thank you to TBug and ItsGrowTime for all the ideas and an unnamed Brand Name system.
I am just a bit distracted..... I built my own Ozone generator and it is a huge one. There is 3 inches between the outside jar and the inside jar and there are blue arcs going everywhere. Sort of like one of those balls you can touch and the electrical sparks go to your hand but I think if these went to your hand your hand would be crispy and you would be dead as hell.
Anyway.......
All these parts can be found at Home Depot or Lowes.
I started out with 5 in X 5in fence plastic fence posts. They were just over 8ft long which was perfect because my room is 59 in long, so I cut each in half. I also bought some 1/2 in connectors and 1/2 in pipe for the pump and main plumbing. For the nute solution delivery system I bought the thin wall 1/2 in pipe so that it would take up less space in the grow chambers. They have caps that are built for these so I bought one for each of the four ends. Here is a shot of the main ingredients. For anyone that would like a more detailed list of connectors or specific question just PM me.
I then bought a type of drill bit for drilling holes like for door knobs. Because I don't know the correct name I will just call them hole drills. I drilled a 2.5 in hole 4.5 in from each end and then in the middle of each of the next 9in sections. The final one I drilled to 3.5 in so that I could screw in the fine mist nozzles and adjust the drain tubes that are 1.5 in each and pass through the bottom where a 1.5 in grommet allows it to move. In case of emergency you could raise the drain spouts inside the grow chamber and hold water there in case of pump failure or other issue. I then hole drilled a 1/2 in hole towards the top on each end of the end caps. A rubber grommet was also placed in this. I chose not to glue anything in place so that it could be broken down between grows for scrubbing and for any equipment failure. I drew a line down the middle of each of the 1/2 in nute delivery line then drilled a hole on each side of the holes in the posts for pots. I wanted two in case any plugged, just a little insurance. I taped each of the holes I drilled so they had threads to screw the fine mister heads into each. Here are a couple of pictures up to this point:
This is looking into one of the larger holes and you can see the nute delivery pipe and a single fine mist nozzle--each nozzle is fine mist with a 7gph flow.
Here are two of the root chambers, you can see that the nute delivery pipe passes through both ends of the chamber through grommet which are air and water tight but still able to be moved and rotated to direct the spray. The right side is capped but I used pure silicon so they could still be removed fairly easy. The left side was left long and was cut when plumbing connected.
Here you can see the various connectors at various stages. I used a slip on fitting on the thin 1/2in pipe for ease of assembly and dis-assembly. You can also see the 1.5 in drainage grommets through the large holes and the 1/2in grommets in the ends of the caps.
One of the tweaks I thought I would do was I wrapped each grow chamber in the silver bubble insulation and cut holes and used white duct tape to seal the edges. Here are a couple of pics.
I used some of the wire shelf type metal framing to hold the chambers above the reservoir and humidifier. The first pic has the passive intake silver duct and the reservoir with the metal framing above. The second just shows the other end metal framing. The reservoir is just a cheap Wallys container painted with Krylon white. I know, I know...... light in the reservoir. I have never had trouble as long as I put the white Krylon. Luck maybe but ten years and that's a hell of a lot of luck.
I try to keep everything in the room white except the plants.
Here is the inside of my reservoir. I have a 595 gph magnadrive motor from Homedepot. It has a filter but I added a pair of nylons to the filter for extra filtration. $1.00 per pair and the super shear have smaller webbing than I have seen in some of the expensive filters. I have 4 air stones with a dedicated Gen Hydro pump keeping the water looking like a witch's cauldron.
I am also putting a foot of the panty hoses at the end of each of the ends of the 1.5in drains for each of the root chambers.
Here is the way it looks so far all the regular 1/2 in tubing is held together with pure silicon. In the bottom right you can see the humidifier. All the air would be waisted blowing straight up through a few plants if it were not for the next tweak. The root chambers are insulated with what equals I think R12 which is pretty damn good but need to keep the air dispersed. So here is the pic of so far.
Now here is the tweak.... I couldn't stand waisting that much light bouncing down on the floor between the root chambers so I bought this cool ass thin board that has multi holes in it. I laid it over the chambers and traced out the grow chamber holes.... then used my dremel to cut them out. Love that dremel. See what a difference if makes with light lose.
Here is one final shot of the main mechanisms, the tape I put on the right corner of the reservoir. As I dump water in I mark its level, I just pull the tape down to know how much is needed to add back.
You can see the four air lines enter just below the top of the res on the left side. This air is pumped from outside the room. This prevents the CO2 from dissolving or even diffusing into the res due to the positive pressure of the air always pushing out of the res.
I wanted the same thing for my root chambers. In another thread we determined that diffusion of CO2 into the res. and the root atmosphere causes acidosis, mild carbonic acid, and worst of all intracellular acidosis that effects are unknown but are very bad as far as cation and anion (nutes) movements in humans and animal species. So as a result I drilled a hole in each of the ends of the root chambers opposite of the plumbing side. To this hole I connected one pump each.... bringing together both outlets in a T formation and injecting fresh air into the root chambers.... thus causing again a positive pressure environment preventing diffusion of CO2 into the root chambers. I tested this by turning off all fans and placing an incense next to the hydroton and there was a noticeable pushing away of the smoke, the same was found in any slight opening in the reservoir. I am fairly confident it is enough air flow to keep the CO2 out of the environment. I have not had the pH swings I had in the past but that was DWC and this is Aero so I would say not a fair comparison. Here is the air tube going into one of the root chambers.
One last thing..... My last grow was with Blueberry which these are clones of... I did not like them much. Two Hermies and a bud that went hermie the last two weeks, the rest of the plant was fine. Dutch Passion Blueberry. I am considering this a trial run. I have not shown the plants because they were in the nursery too long and grew up into the floros and got burned badly. They are recovering very quickly in their new homes and are loving life. The Aero has thrown my rhythm off a little. My CO2 levels have been going between 1000 and 1250 the last couple of days. I just need to get my intake and out take with humidity balanced again. Once the plants get bigger they absorb more of the energy so I can slow the expelling of the air which means less pulling in and I am running 2 multi (4 nipple) and 4 other pumps that all were in the room before but I will get it dialed in again. Here is a pic with a CAP 3 showing them in full bloom. In a 32in x 59in x 8ft high area, produced just over 18oz. Here is a pic of the CAP 3 next to a big cola.
Hope I explained things well. I didn't want to much detail because this is not a Do It Yourself thread per say.
Give me some feed back on pace...... too much talking...... too little detail?
Peace
Last edited:
That was worth the wait!
Very very clean setup and well thought out too. That thing should put out some monsters with CO2. I know you want to test it with the blueberry but damn, those AK seeds would be calling me from the fridge
Maybe sprout your AKs and just keep the blueberry clones in there to catch any new leaks or issues? Seems a waste to leave your high yielders (not that 18oz from blueberry is bad) in seed and spend 2 months on plants you dont even like. Just my .02 though.
Care to show your lighting and ventilation?
Very very clean setup and well thought out too. That thing should put out some monsters with CO2. I know you want to test it with the blueberry but damn, those AK seeds would be calling me from the fridge
Maybe sprout your AKs and just keep the blueberry clones in there to catch any new leaks or issues? Seems a waste to leave your high yielders (not that 18oz from blueberry is bad) in seed and spend 2 months on plants you dont even like. Just my .02 though.
Care to show your lighting and ventilation?
Pod Racer
Member
Yes, Beautifully clean and well designed room. I'm impressed. 
Bree - have you considered just running your Co2 line directly into your res? I know everyone is totally into Co2 Gas exchange at the stoma level, but you can achive the same Carbon loading via the rootsystems. The roots can absorbed Disolved Carbon in the water, which I've seen amazing results from.
I initially used one of those little rigs from the pet store for aquatic plants, it did an awesome job on my Bubbles in DWC. And I know there are a few manufacturers like Doc Carbon Bloom.
Just wondering what your thoughts were on it?
Excellent setup really sweet mind if I pull up a chair?
PS - Don't know if you've tried the panty hose trick before, but be careful as I did and had it caked up with sediment very quickly and plug up my drains and overflow my rig. Those ultra fine mess holes catch every bit of partical matter and become like a sheet of slim.
Don't use Thrive Alive! As it is a major culprit that creates a gooey slime like snot that will just drift around until gunking everything up. At least it did for most of my buddies and I. Though I love TAR, it didn't turn out to be very aero friendly.
What nutes are you using if I might ask?
Bree - have you considered just running your Co2 line directly into your res? I know everyone is totally into Co2 Gas exchange at the stoma level, but you can achive the same Carbon loading via the rootsystems. The roots can absorbed Disolved Carbon in the water, which I've seen amazing results from.
I initially used one of those little rigs from the pet store for aquatic plants, it did an awesome job on my Bubbles in DWC. And I know there are a few manufacturers like Doc Carbon Bloom.
Just wondering what your thoughts were on it?
Excellent setup really sweet mind if I pull up a chair?
PS - Don't know if you've tried the panty hose trick before, but be careful as I did and had it caked up with sediment very quickly and plug up my drains and overflow my rig. Those ultra fine mess holes catch every bit of partical matter and become like a sheet of slim.
Don't use Thrive Alive! As it is a major culprit that creates a gooey slime like snot that will just drift around until gunking everything up. At least it did for most of my buddies and I. Though I love TAR, it didn't turn out to be very aero friendly.
What nutes are you using if I might ask?
Last edited:
Heya Bree, I finally made it!
I blew right past that PM you sent me, it popped up when I was trying to update my thread, and I promptly forgot about it.
But I'm here now! Better late than never, right?
I think it's absolutely fascinating that you keep your CO2 levels so high with an open ventilation. I'm sure you've covered it, but let me ask, because I missed it.
You mention the passive intakes, but how are you exhausting? Is it just passive as well? I could see the ppms staying so high if you're using sealed cool tubes, and just letting the air passively exchange as it heats, but if you're actively venting, I'm lost
I blew right past that PM you sent me, it popped up when I was trying to update my thread, and I promptly forgot about it.
But I'm here now! Better late than never, right?
I think it's absolutely fascinating that you keep your CO2 levels so high with an open ventilation. I'm sure you've covered it, but let me ask, because I missed it.
You mention the passive intakes, but how are you exhausting? Is it just passive as well? I could see the ppms staying so high if you're using sealed cool tubes, and just letting the air passively exchange as it heats, but if you're actively venting, I'm lost
G
Guest
IGT.... thanks for the kind words....
IGT.... thanks for the kind words....
I have them on 24/7 and they are really starting to recover quickly. As soon as I switch to the 12/12 I will show pictures going up. I basically have an in-line fan suspended by bungee cords going into well insulated duct into a Can-filter 75. I have a unipolar dimmer that I control the fan speed with. I balance the CO2 levels, heat, RH by adjusting the fan. Adding all the outside air through the pumps to the res. and the root chambers have me adjusting constantly right now. I will get it dialed in soon. I run the fan at about 1/4 to 1/3 speed and it is an eight inch fan for an 8 inch filter. I use 10 inch duct and two sizes larger filter. The pump for the water is louder than the fan. I will definitely get those pics soon. The plants are becoming respectable min. by min..... The go to 12/12. As I have told you before I have not been able to sample my product for a little over a year and will not be able to for little less than a year now or about 9 months. The person I donated too loves it. I took a non-lit drag and it really did have a blueberry taste that stayed with you. I get so jealous sometimes but damn the Karma has to be worth something. I hope.
Peace
IGT.... thanks for the kind words....
I have them on 24/7 and they are really starting to recover quickly. As soon as I switch to the 12/12 I will show pictures going up. I basically have an in-line fan suspended by bungee cords going into well insulated duct into a Can-filter 75. I have a unipolar dimmer that I control the fan speed with. I balance the CO2 levels, heat, RH by adjusting the fan. Adding all the outside air through the pumps to the res. and the root chambers have me adjusting constantly right now. I will get it dialed in soon. I run the fan at about 1/4 to 1/3 speed and it is an eight inch fan for an 8 inch filter. I use 10 inch duct and two sizes larger filter. The pump for the water is louder than the fan. I will definitely get those pics soon. The plants are becoming respectable min. by min..... The go to 12/12. As I have told you before I have not been able to sample my product for a little over a year and will not be able to for little less than a year now or about 9 months. The person I donated too loves it. I took a non-lit drag and it really did have a blueberry taste that stayed with you. I get so jealous sometimes but damn the Karma has to be worth something. I hope.
Peace
G
Guest
Couple of great thoughts....
Couple of great thoughts....
Pod Racer--I will have to look into that... I have not heard of that concept but seems like a great concept. I will keep an eye on those panty hose too. I thought that could be a problem. At a dollar a pair for the queen size, I will change them often. Those aquatic guys have a lot of stuff we can learn from. I have been lurking their threads lately and they are way ahead of us in a couple of areas.
Nite Tiger-- Thanks for the kind words. My exhaust is a can fan meant for in-line. I have it hooked to the ceiling with bungee cords only stretched to half their capacity so they can absorb any vibration at all. It is a 8in but I run it into 10in insulated ducting with extra insulation, it blows into a 75 Can filter which is 2 sizes larger than is called for. I have it plugged into a plug in box that is wired with a unipolar light dimmer. Like the post above, I dial in the rate to maximize CO2, keep heat 85-89, and humidity in the 50-60 but a bit lower when the buds get thick (RH). During late flowering I change the yeast solution a little more like every five days to 1 wk to keep the levels up. One of the main tricks is to get the yeast solution at the right temps at the right times and this I mainly do with timers and heating pads. I go by the bubbles and the reading of my CAP 3 for this. I have been thinking to place a temp probe on it to keep track but I have like 10 different temps and RHs to keep track of now. Since I have introduced so much outside air with the pumps to the res and root chambers I am having more difficulty keeping the levels.....level. Just a matter of dialing in the new system. I have four passive silver metal ducts that take cool air from a source above the grow room and brings it down to the floor level, as the can fan expels the upper hot air.... the air is drawn in the ducts to the bottom of the room. My light has a 4in hose on each side that opens into the ceiling area above the grow area, one on the right and one on the left, I cut a 4 in hole in the top of the sealed light and left it open. The fan also pulls the cool air down the two 4in ducts through the light and up out of the room. This all happens well above the plant zone and the cool air that is drawn from the 4-4in duct along the wall to the floor gets immediately mixed with the CO2 as it enters the room. The house size humidifier catches the CO2 which is heavier than air and recirculates it up through the perforated thin white board and again delivers it to the bottom of the leaves. It stays cool inside the plants and is heavier than air so naturally drops down to be recirculated again. The hot air next to the light and coming out of the light naturally rises and is expelled to more of a degree than the fresh air and CO2 which stays cooler.
The trick is to keep each zone open but separate at the same time. As the humidifier blows the CO2 enriched air up to the stomata on the bottom of the leaves, it also cools the air and the root chambers causing more of the cooled and heavier CO2 to drop back down and get recirculated while the hot air from the upper part of the room and exhaust out the top 4 in hole in the hood shoots straight out the can fan.
I know people say not to use light dimmers to control the fans but mine has been running non-stop for about a year and a half and it still ticking.
I hope I have explained well. I was going to shut the light off so I could take a pic straight up so you could see the ceiling set up but I forgot. I promise soon. And the plants are rebounding quickly, I will take pics in a couple of days.
Thanks for all the feedback and the questions. It helps me a lot and I am sure it helps others too...... Just like TBugs and ItsGrowTime's threads helped me. And my discussions with alphacat ( poor pig). LMAO
Peace
Couple of great thoughts....
Pod Racer--I will have to look into that... I have not heard of that concept but seems like a great concept. I will keep an eye on those panty hose too. I thought that could be a problem. At a dollar a pair for the queen size, I will change them often. Those aquatic guys have a lot of stuff we can learn from. I have been lurking their threads lately and they are way ahead of us in a couple of areas.
Nite Tiger-- Thanks for the kind words. My exhaust is a can fan meant for in-line. I have it hooked to the ceiling with bungee cords only stretched to half their capacity so they can absorb any vibration at all. It is a 8in but I run it into 10in insulated ducting with extra insulation, it blows into a 75 Can filter which is 2 sizes larger than is called for. I have it plugged into a plug in box that is wired with a unipolar light dimmer. Like the post above, I dial in the rate to maximize CO2, keep heat 85-89, and humidity in the 50-60 but a bit lower when the buds get thick (RH). During late flowering I change the yeast solution a little more like every five days to 1 wk to keep the levels up. One of the main tricks is to get the yeast solution at the right temps at the right times and this I mainly do with timers and heating pads. I go by the bubbles and the reading of my CAP 3 for this. I have been thinking to place a temp probe on it to keep track but I have like 10 different temps and RHs to keep track of now. Since I have introduced so much outside air with the pumps to the res and root chambers I am having more difficulty keeping the levels.....level. Just a matter of dialing in the new system. I have four passive silver metal ducts that take cool air from a source above the grow room and brings it down to the floor level, as the can fan expels the upper hot air.... the air is drawn in the ducts to the bottom of the room. My light has a 4in hose on each side that opens into the ceiling area above the grow area, one on the right and one on the left, I cut a 4 in hole in the top of the sealed light and left it open. The fan also pulls the cool air down the two 4in ducts through the light and up out of the room. This all happens well above the plant zone and the cool air that is drawn from the 4-4in duct along the wall to the floor gets immediately mixed with the CO2 as it enters the room. The house size humidifier catches the CO2 which is heavier than air and recirculates it up through the perforated thin white board and again delivers it to the bottom of the leaves. It stays cool inside the plants and is heavier than air so naturally drops down to be recirculated again. The hot air next to the light and coming out of the light naturally rises and is expelled to more of a degree than the fresh air and CO2 which stays cooler.
The trick is to keep each zone open but separate at the same time. As the humidifier blows the CO2 enriched air up to the stomata on the bottom of the leaves, it also cools the air and the root chambers causing more of the cooled and heavier CO2 to drop back down and get recirculated while the hot air from the upper part of the room and exhaust out the top 4 in hole in the hood shoots straight out the can fan.
I know people say not to use light dimmers to control the fans but mine has been running non-stop for about a year and a half and it still ticking.
I hope I have explained well. I was going to shut the light off so I could take a pic straight up so you could see the ceiling set up but I forgot. I promise soon. And the plants are rebounding quickly, I will take pics in a couple of days.
Thanks for all the feedback and the questions. It helps me a lot and I am sure it helps others too...... Just like TBugs and ItsGrowTime's threads helped me. And my discussions with alphacat ( poor pig). LMAO
Peace
Last edited:
Pod Racer
Member
Carbon exchange at the root level
Carbon exchange at the root level
Hey Bree,
From what I understand carbon accounts for about 43% of the dry weight of all plants. Plants have two different ways of finding carbon to use for growth. The first is from free carbon dioxide (CO2) captured from the water, substrate or directly from the atmosphere. In the absence of CO2, many plants have the ability to meet their carbon needs by splitting carbon directly from carbonates in the water, which is the second method.
When plants draw on the calcium carbonate in the water to meet their carbon needs (this process is sometimes called biogenic decalcification), the water has less and less buffering capacity, leading to serious pH fluctuations. Eventually, the plants can totally exhaust this carbon source as well.
CO2 produces a weak acid, and, as noted above, will lower the pH of a tank. For people with moderately hard water, this works out perfectly.
It is believed that the recommended range for CO2 is between 10 and 40 mg/L. This is what aquatic plant specialist and aquarium enthusiast use as their guide.
In natural waters with luxurious plant growth a continuous flow of CO2 is supplied by CO2-rich nutrition springs and by fermentation processes in the ground. This natural CO2 supply is missing in the aquarium and an additional CO2 fertilization is essential. A deficiency in CO2 is the reason for unnaturally high pH-values and stunted or dissolving aquarium plants.
Carbonate harness (KH), is yet another factor that effects the concentration of CO2. Hard water, with a high KH can hold more CO2 than soft water. While it is essentially true that hard water with a low pH holds the largest amount of CO2 in practice we can only use the values most suitable for plants, which are pH 6.4-7.2 and 3-8o KH.
CO2 gas dissolved in water can take the form of bicarbonate or carbonate. These three forms are in chemical equilibrium. Which form is present in what amount depends on the pH.
Dissolved CO2 <=> bicarbonate ion <=> carbonate ion
In the pH range favorable to water plants, pH 6.4-7.2, a percentage will be present as dissolved CO2 and the rest as bicarbonate ions.
From pH 8.0 to pH 8.8 there will be almost no dissolved CO2, a large amount of bicarbonate and a small amount of carbonate.
Because of the CO2 equilibrium discussed, the maximum amount of dissolved CO2 present is dependent on the pH. The lower the pH the more CO2 present.
Since plants use CO2 in considerable amounts, they increase the pH at the same time. Thus the pH value and the CO2 concentration are interrelated.
And just remember:
The density of stomata on a leaf varies with such factors as:
the temperature, humidity, and light intensity around the plant;
and also, as it turns out, the concentration of carbon dioxide in the air around the leaves. The relationship is inverse; that is, as CO2 goes up, the number of stomata goes down, and vice versa. Some evidence:
Plants grown in an artificial atmosphere with a high level of CO2 have fewer stomata than normal.
Herbarium specimens reveal that the number of stomata in a given species has been declining over the last 200 years — the time of the industrial revolution and rising levels of CO2 in the atmosphere.
These data can be quantified by determining the stomatal index: the ratio of the number of stomata in a given area divided by the total number of stomata and other epidermal cells in that same area.
So IMHO Co2 supplimentation should be only periodic via atmosphere and during light hours only for peek absorption and to limit the reduction of stoma in response to elevated Co2 levels in the air.
Whereas subaquatic Co2 exchange can be supplimented without reaction to atmosheric conditions. Just more Aero-science.
If that made any sense.
PS You inspired me to add my own favorite AE quotes. Great minds think alike, no?
Carbon exchange at the root level
Hey Bree,
From what I understand carbon accounts for about 43% of the dry weight of all plants. Plants have two different ways of finding carbon to use for growth. The first is from free carbon dioxide (CO2) captured from the water, substrate or directly from the atmosphere. In the absence of CO2, many plants have the ability to meet their carbon needs by splitting carbon directly from carbonates in the water, which is the second method.
When plants draw on the calcium carbonate in the water to meet their carbon needs (this process is sometimes called biogenic decalcification), the water has less and less buffering capacity, leading to serious pH fluctuations. Eventually, the plants can totally exhaust this carbon source as well.
CO2 produces a weak acid, and, as noted above, will lower the pH of a tank. For people with moderately hard water, this works out perfectly.
It is believed that the recommended range for CO2 is between 10 and 40 mg/L. This is what aquatic plant specialist and aquarium enthusiast use as their guide.
In natural waters with luxurious plant growth a continuous flow of CO2 is supplied by CO2-rich nutrition springs and by fermentation processes in the ground. This natural CO2 supply is missing in the aquarium and an additional CO2 fertilization is essential. A deficiency in CO2 is the reason for unnaturally high pH-values and stunted or dissolving aquarium plants.
Carbonate harness (KH), is yet another factor that effects the concentration of CO2. Hard water, with a high KH can hold more CO2 than soft water. While it is essentially true that hard water with a low pH holds the largest amount of CO2 in practice we can only use the values most suitable for plants, which are pH 6.4-7.2 and 3-8o KH.
CO2 gas dissolved in water can take the form of bicarbonate or carbonate. These three forms are in chemical equilibrium. Which form is present in what amount depends on the pH.
Dissolved CO2 <=> bicarbonate ion <=> carbonate ion
In the pH range favorable to water plants, pH 6.4-7.2, a percentage will be present as dissolved CO2 and the rest as bicarbonate ions.
From pH 8.0 to pH 8.8 there will be almost no dissolved CO2, a large amount of bicarbonate and a small amount of carbonate.
Because of the CO2 equilibrium discussed, the maximum amount of dissolved CO2 present is dependent on the pH. The lower the pH the more CO2 present.
Since plants use CO2 in considerable amounts, they increase the pH at the same time. Thus the pH value and the CO2 concentration are interrelated.
And just remember:
The density of stomata on a leaf varies with such factors as:
the temperature, humidity, and light intensity around the plant;
and also, as it turns out, the concentration of carbon dioxide in the air around the leaves. The relationship is inverse; that is, as CO2 goes up, the number of stomata goes down, and vice versa. Some evidence:
Plants grown in an artificial atmosphere with a high level of CO2 have fewer stomata than normal.
Herbarium specimens reveal that the number of stomata in a given species has been declining over the last 200 years — the time of the industrial revolution and rising levels of CO2 in the atmosphere.
These data can be quantified by determining the stomatal index: the ratio of the number of stomata in a given area divided by the total number of stomata and other epidermal cells in that same area.
So IMHO Co2 supplimentation should be only periodic via atmosphere and during light hours only for peek absorption and to limit the reduction of stoma in response to elevated Co2 levels in the air.
Whereas subaquatic Co2 exchange can be supplimented without reaction to atmosheric conditions. Just more Aero-science.
If that made any sense.
PS You inspired me to add my own favorite AE quotes. Great minds think alike, no?
Last edited:
G
Guest
Hello Everyone....... Update on the grow...... First plant pictures
Hello Everyone....... Update on the grow...... First plant pictures
Well hello everyone,
Nite Tiger-- I have a pic of the upper part of the room. I turned the light off for a bit and got a pic. Must please the visitors is my moto.
Pod Racer--Your information is outstanding. I have a couple of questions. On another thread we discussed CO2 in large amount in the grow room, being dissolved actively by bubblers located in the room and passively by the exposure of the surface of the reservoir to the high concentrations of CO2. We ended up that this would cause small carbonic acid formations, pH fluctuations just by the presence of the water saturation in CO2 (like it would in the human blood which it acts as an acid), and cause intracellular acidosis. I am coming from my back ground knowledge of human physiology and applying it. Very possibly incorrectly. So what do you think on the subject? Pros and Cons? I currently have my bubblers outside my room for the reservoir and I have a single pump for each root chamber that injects air into the root environment to cause a positive pressure environment, not allowing the higher concentration of CO2 to diffuse into the root environment. We were going off the possible erroneous assumption that there was no need for CO2 in the root environment. All your thoughts will be appreciated.
Well everyone. The plants are bouncing back extremely quickly. The new growth is very rapid indeed. I have been trimming off the damaged growth using my usual rule of thumb that if it is more than half dead, take it off.
Usually I want as much input as possible, but please, when you see the pics. I know what is wrong what went wrong, and only need useful input on anything I am not covering by the new system or not doing to help them recover. Well here is the pic of the top of the room looking up set up. And here is one of the plants from the doorway. I added a 4 foot stationary ruler so we could not the actual changes and I put a strip of Velcro on the wall so I could keep my reservoir temp gauge where I could see it through the peep hole (by the way the humidity gauge on the reservoir temp gauge does not work, it fell into the reservoir too many times) and move the CO2 monitor with the tops of the plants and see it too through the peep hole.
Peace
In the shot of the upper room set up starting left to right: 4 silver metal 4 in cool air ducts taking the cool air to the floor and dispersing it, the cooled 1000w MH at present, the cooled hood has two 4in passive intake air ducts-in the top of the hood is a third 4 in open duct I cut- the hot air is drawn out there and out the fan which is very close. Just right of the light is a 8in Can-fan, plugged into a socket that is wired to a unipolar light dimmer so I can dial it up or down. I balance the CO2, temp, and RH by dialing up or down. The fan is suspended by bungee cords only stretched to half capacity so they take up any and all vibration. The 8in fan exhausts into 10in insulated duct with extra insulation and shortly dumps into a Can-filter 75 which is 2 sizes larger than called for. Absolutely no smell and the fan only runs at 1/3-1/4 speed. If turned all the way up sounds like a jet engine taking off but at lower speeds is virtually silent with the extra size and insulation and special hang. My pump is louder than the fan. Anyway see you later.
Pod Racer--Albert Einstein is my hero--I am sure he would cry today and did in his day to see what we have done with his work.
Hello Everyone....... Update on the grow...... First plant pictures
Well hello everyone,
Nite Tiger-- I have a pic of the upper part of the room. I turned the light off for a bit and got a pic. Must please the visitors is my moto.
Pod Racer--Your information is outstanding. I have a couple of questions. On another thread we discussed CO2 in large amount in the grow room, being dissolved actively by bubblers located in the room and passively by the exposure of the surface of the reservoir to the high concentrations of CO2. We ended up that this would cause small carbonic acid formations, pH fluctuations just by the presence of the water saturation in CO2 (like it would in the human blood which it acts as an acid), and cause intracellular acidosis. I am coming from my back ground knowledge of human physiology and applying it. Very possibly incorrectly. So what do you think on the subject? Pros and Cons? I currently have my bubblers outside my room for the reservoir and I have a single pump for each root chamber that injects air into the root environment to cause a positive pressure environment, not allowing the higher concentration of CO2 to diffuse into the root environment. We were going off the possible erroneous assumption that there was no need for CO2 in the root environment. All your thoughts will be appreciated.
Well everyone. The plants are bouncing back extremely quickly. The new growth is very rapid indeed. I have been trimming off the damaged growth using my usual rule of thumb that if it is more than half dead, take it off.
Usually I want as much input as possible, but please, when you see the pics. I know what is wrong what went wrong, and only need useful input on anything I am not covering by the new system or not doing to help them recover. Well here is the pic of the top of the room looking up set up. And here is one of the plants from the doorway. I added a 4 foot stationary ruler so we could not the actual changes and I put a strip of Velcro on the wall so I could keep my reservoir temp gauge where I could see it through the peep hole (by the way the humidity gauge on the reservoir temp gauge does not work, it fell into the reservoir too many times) and move the CO2 monitor with the tops of the plants and see it too through the peep hole.
Peace
In the shot of the upper room set up starting left to right: 4 silver metal 4 in cool air ducts taking the cool air to the floor and dispersing it, the cooled 1000w MH at present, the cooled hood has two 4in passive intake air ducts-in the top of the hood is a third 4 in open duct I cut- the hot air is drawn out there and out the fan which is very close. Just right of the light is a 8in Can-fan, plugged into a socket that is wired to a unipolar light dimmer so I can dial it up or down. I balance the CO2, temp, and RH by dialing up or down. The fan is suspended by bungee cords only stretched to half capacity so they take up any and all vibration. The 8in fan exhausts into 10in insulated duct with extra insulation and shortly dumps into a Can-filter 75 which is 2 sizes larger than called for. Absolutely no smell and the fan only runs at 1/3-1/4 speed. If turned all the way up sounds like a jet engine taking off but at lower speeds is virtually silent with the extra size and insulation and special hang. My pump is louder than the fan. Anyway see you later.
Pod Racer--Albert Einstein is my hero--I am sure he would cry today and did in his day to see what we have done with his work.
Looking good.
I have made a night shutter for my yeast co2 i'd like to show you.
I have made a night shutter for my yeast co2 i'd like to show you.
G
Guest
Hello Everyone...... time for an update.......
Hello Everyone...... time for an update.......
The plants are doing extremely well but I can't say they are doing any better than my shallow water culture I just completed. Although, those plants had no stress, burns from floros, bending of tops (except purposeful), and being in a tiny cramped place 3 sizes too small. Anyway... they are over coming beautifully. All have shown sex to be female except one, and no signs of hermies. Go figure... last time no stress and three hermies.... one that got by me and showed male flowers in the last two weeks of budding and two that came to death by unknown and suspect means.
Here are three pics each a day apart and you can see the difference:
I tried to get the same angle and closeness and it worked out maybe a little. Here are a few other pics that I took here and there the last couple of days:
Close up of the new growth-
A shot across the canopy..... I have to hold the camera up and not look through it and take several shot and pick one since my room is so small.
So Pod Racer.... CO2 is good to add to the roots. I have been trying to keep it out due to another thread where we talked about it in detail?
Superpedro-- is that a system to add CO2 to the reservoir or the room? I couldn't figure it out.
The plants are doing so good I think tomorrow I will go to the 12/12. They have enough bud sites and I can use the small bottom ones to practice my cloning in the new aero cloner I made.... thanks to someone on this site for the directions. I am learning so much from all of you. Every day I want to tear apart my system and redo it because of something great I learned. But experience has taught me to take it slow and only change one thing at a time. If you change more than one variable, and there are good or bad outcomes you don't really know which variable or if it was the combination.
Pod Racers posts have really got me wanting to build a high pressure box for true Aero..... badly. I will have to wait and use this one up though. Need to get some mileage out of it and learn all I can about the nuances. My reservoirs have never been too hot but they have been now. I am keeping them down with 2 - 3/4gal jugs of ice every 12hours. The roots are looking superb so not too worried but I sure like the looks of the True Aero and I like the no medium idea too. I use 3in cups with hydroton but by the time they are done .... there really is no hydroton left except what the roots trapped, the rest has been pushed out. I am starting to integrate melted snow from my gutters and using hydro guard. After, I get some clones up I am going to try some in our well water which if very hard with a high EC... I have the GH hard water micro and going to see how it works. Will of course show it all on here if you would like.
Not many posts or feedback though. I have to need to fix something. I definitely am investigating the carbon in the water. It makes sense on a basic chemistry level so it is worth looking into. Well chattered enough.
Peace
Hello Everyone...... time for an update.......
The plants are doing extremely well but I can't say they are doing any better than my shallow water culture I just completed. Although, those plants had no stress, burns from floros, bending of tops (except purposeful), and being in a tiny cramped place 3 sizes too small. Anyway... they are over coming beautifully. All have shown sex to be female except one, and no signs of hermies. Go figure... last time no stress and three hermies.... one that got by me and showed male flowers in the last two weeks of budding and two that came to death by unknown and suspect means.
Here are three pics each a day apart and you can see the difference:
I tried to get the same angle and closeness and it worked out maybe a little. Here are a few other pics that I took here and there the last couple of days:
Close up of the new growth-
A shot across the canopy..... I have to hold the camera up and not look through it and take several shot and pick one since my room is so small.
So Pod Racer.... CO2 is good to add to the roots. I have been trying to keep it out due to another thread where we talked about it in detail?
Superpedro-- is that a system to add CO2 to the reservoir or the room? I couldn't figure it out.
The plants are doing so good I think tomorrow I will go to the 12/12. They have enough bud sites and I can use the small bottom ones to practice my cloning in the new aero cloner I made.... thanks to someone on this site for the directions. I am learning so much from all of you. Every day I want to tear apart my system and redo it because of something great I learned. But experience has taught me to take it slow and only change one thing at a time. If you change more than one variable, and there are good or bad outcomes you don't really know which variable or if it was the combination.
Pod Racers posts have really got me wanting to build a high pressure box for true Aero..... badly. I will have to wait and use this one up though. Need to get some mileage out of it and learn all I can about the nuances. My reservoirs have never been too hot but they have been now. I am keeping them down with 2 - 3/4gal jugs of ice every 12hours. The roots are looking superb so not too worried but I sure like the looks of the True Aero and I like the no medium idea too. I use 3in cups with hydroton but by the time they are done .... there really is no hydroton left except what the roots trapped, the rest has been pushed out. I am starting to integrate melted snow from my gutters and using hydro guard. After, I get some clones up I am going to try some in our well water which if very hard with a high EC... I have the GH hard water micro and going to see how it works. Will of course show it all on here if you would like.
Not many posts or feedback though. I have to need to fix something. I definitely am investigating the carbon in the water. It makes sense on a basic chemistry level so it is worth looking into. Well chattered enough.
Peace
Last edited:
