botrytis resistance and bud structure

[Probiomer]

I'm not going to be able to help you because I grow indoors and not out. But this is what I've done indoors to counteract botrytis.

I'm altering and developing the pheno/physical structure of Northern Lights to provide smaller buds but _many_ more of them... without topping, fimming, or otherwise decapitating a cannabis plant.

Thats a great suggestion.
I was already going in that direction with my outdoor plants, but next year i will top way more.
This year i was a little hesitant about topping because i worried that they get too busy.
In hindsight more bushy with even smaller buds would be better. We also have strong winds in the fall, so i don't think that busyness really restricts airflow.
Next year i will top/fim 3-4 times.

 

[Captain Red Eye]

Morning dew settles all over the plant, no matter how dense the buds. Airy buds tend to dry quicker so that's a plus but not resistence. This year has been particularly bad though. Can't really do much other than selecting better genetics next year.
Breeding in a controlled environment does not select for mold resistance. Those genes can quickly be lost if the breeder is not conscientious. In a way you want a bad grower to breed resistant plants.

In my experience the looser fluffier pheno , if it exists , is much less effected by budrot than the denser type from the same cross.
Almost always it starts a third of the way down the main colas , if caught fast a clean excision of anything looking remotely dodgy usually saves whats left.

This year the only plants untouched by PM and budrot are revegged from last year , flowered out after giveing a lot of clones.

If you are sure you will extract with icebags you could spray with sulphur and bordeaux till harvest and wash the taint away.

Used this trichoprotect stuff recently and it seems to have worked , 2% unspecified microbials in a filler that looks like starch or powdered milk.

View attachment 19065059

Interesting. I'm curious what the "microbial contents" listed on the ingredients list are.
Any idea or guesses?

 

[MROrganicGreenz]

I would guess mostly trichoderma harzianum.

 

[foomar]

They say Trichoderma harzianum but no idea what the carrier is but it readily dissolves in cold water and does not clog the jet.
Smells like cheap powdered milk and tastes sweet..

Was purchased in a mouldy panic with no research but has definately stopped the rot.

Will have a homebrewed more affordable version for next season and go mad with the knapsack sprayer from the start.

 

[Probiomer]

They say Trichoderma harzianum but no idea what the carrier is but it readily dissolves in cold water and does not clog the jet.
Smells like cheap powdered milk and tastes sweet..

Was purchased in a mouldy panic with no research but has definately stopped the rot.

Will have a homebrewed more affordable version for next season and go mad with the knapsack sprayer from the start.

just propigate the stuff you have

When you are spraying anyway, add 70mg Salicylic acid and 100mg chitosan oligosaccharides per liter. They cost pennies and will give more resistant and terpy plants. 1.0 mg/L triacontanol Is also cheap and just speeds everything up.

 

[Asentrouw]

I think fluffy buds tend to ventilate better, which might be the reason some of these are quite resistant. However, thats no guarantee.

I also had strains with denser buds that were quite mold-resistant.

It comes down to acclimatized genetics.

And even then its a lucky shot in regard of pheno's.

I think Creeperpark is right on about the growing enviroment.

In my experience potted and overfed plants are much more receptive to mold, then moderately fed plants in full soil.

I've had the most mold-resistant strains rot away in spots with bad air-circulation due to surrounding vegitation or walls, while less resistant strains did very well in open spots, situated on the south.

And then there is still the weather, which is always a lucky shot.

So many many different factors come into play if you want a great harvest without botrytus. Not only bud structures.

 

[UFOpilot]

And you should get rid off those little snails ,they cause it too

 

[Ca++]

Silica to toughen the cell walls is useful. It's all it's really for. Many use rice hulls as a source, as it's not straight forward to use as a liquid.
Plant health is very important, but big buds are certainly more prone. Room RH doesn't reflect what's in them buds well. Cleanliness as they form is useful, as is a plant that won't take months to flower.

I have had some success outdoors with organocide. It's PK based spray. In a form that's not available for a week or two. It seems to have use as a contact treatment, but is more about triggering a plant immune response. As such, it's systemic.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

Interestingly enough, though rabbit is generally more micronutrient dense than other manures, it turns out to be lower in silica.

Has anyone used the KNF rice hulls method for silica solution for assisting with mold prevention? Burning rice hulls using low heat to a fine ash, then mixing with water for foliar or drench?