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Blumat vs Floraflex

Blumat vs Floraflex

  • Floraflex

    Votes: 15 39.5%
  • Blumat

    Votes: 23 60.5%

  • Total voters
    38

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
hated the blumats, well and you cant run nutes through them reliably. Calcification will clog the clay. then theres the whole sterilizing between rounds. you gotta pull them apart, soak, clean, setup again, then readjust the drip settings all over again. Pain. The adjusting of the drippers all over again give you inconsistent results. next thing you know your getting over water's an underwaters. over watere sites stall, PERIOD!!!



Verse floraflex cleaning. run pool shock inbetween runs to sterilize rez lines an feed. pre soak drip stakes. setup drip stakes, done. no adjusting needed once you know the system. all your adjusting is done at the recycle timer, or a line "cut off".



over the years ive made so many different drip or water manifolds. i'll have to say the floraflex is nice as long as you follow certain things.



not sure what gr866 is speaking of about being unlevel an changing feed. Dont think your setup right, man.



simply put, each manifold needs pressure. they do not feed right with low pressure. THEN you get inconsistencies!!


follow this an you can get a jump start...

what you need is a larger pump then you think you need. Flora flex need somewhat equal pressure in each manifold at every site.



use a Pre filter screen on the pump. run a large mag pump like a danner or go right for a centrifugal 1 hp pump. search ebay for shallow water pump, 1inch 120v industrial pump, bunch should come up fro $60-100. 1200w or so.





After the pump u need an inline sediment filter, rainbird makes one for $15-30. ebay as well


Use the Flroaflex drip reducer inserts!!!!!!!! I go with the 2gph tan colored inserts. If you go open flow its very inconsistent. the inserts reduce feed flow an increase pressure across the system. then you will get even flow 50ft from res.


If you can pitch the rigid pvc feed line so it drains back into the res after a feed event.Place the floraflex manifolds significantly higher then the edge of your potting container. this way the furthest manifold from the res is the highest. use a level when running the feed line an manifolds. all you need is like a 1/2inch every 10ft to have the lines drain back.



when building, if at all possible,keep the flora-flex manifolds higher then the pots. then the drip feed lines sloped down toawrds to the pot. NO SAGGS in then lines. NO SAGS! sags in the line will create stagnant water. run multiple lines to each pot for redundancy in the unlikely event of a clogged line.



also, i run 4 lines to each container. 4 lines with my pump/system with the 2gph tan reducers gives me 16oz of nutrient per site every 60 seconds of pump time on.



Say you arent mono cropped an you have a few slow drinkers in with the heavy drinkers. all you need to do is bend over a feed line to that site, now you just reduced flow to that site only by 25%. 2 lines bent over an twist tied now your 50% less feed an all the heavy drinkers dont get sacrificed.


in all i have about 30 manifolds an i have very little issues. my biggest problems where all from things i expressed above an now go by. allowing the system to drain after every watering event was a huge improvement.


best of luck
 

Chevy cHaze

Out Of Dankness Cometh Light
ICMag Donor
Veteran
It really comes down to your desired style of growing...
Floraflex for hydroponic and blumat for everything else I'd say.
What is Floraflex other than a fancy top drip dtw system?
Hmmm, can't figure it out. The best about blumats is that the plant determines when she needs more water, not a timer...
CC
 

GOT_BUD?

Weed is a gateway to gardening
ICMag Donor
Veteran
It really comes down to your desired style of growing...
Floraflex for hydroponic and blumat for everything else I'd say.
What is Floraflex other than a fancy top drip dtw system?
Hmmm, can't figure it out. The best about blumats is that the plant determines when she needs more water, not a timer...
CC

It's my feeling a SIP set up is similar in basic principal to the Blumat system in that the moisture level is really determined by the plant's need.

I'm betting in a side by side comparison they would perform darn near identically.
 

Chevy cHaze

Out Of Dankness Cometh Light
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Yes I think you'Re right GB, drying out triggers watering... one way or another. I guess in hydro you need continuous feed so the roots don't dry out and it looks like the floraflex will absolutely do exactly that...
So many different ways to grow a plant that gets you nice and high :)
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
A hydro delivery system based on moisture levels wouldn't work for me. I can feed at ec2.0 and they will still eat all the food, long before drinking all the water. I struggled with LED's until I realised this. Chasing deficiencies that I would never catch, until I started to fertigate when they had barely drank a third of what I had supplied. A fertigation solution with a balanced amount of food to water, would be an ec I can't even measure. Just poison. There is just no way I could make these work using LED's that give growth I can call progressing.
 

imakandi

Member
imakandi use blmat

in week end i find transx plant, so kill

check root


this root made by blumt, koko and good ec-ph

you choice
:)

edit: do not know florfelx
is only
what experiance of imakandi
no instruction
:)
 
Last edited:

ledtime

Member
hated the blumats, well and you cant run nutes through them reliably. Calcification will clog the clay. then theres the whole sterilizing between rounds. you gotta pull them apart, soak, clean, setup again, then readjust the drip settings all over again. Pain. The adjusting of the drippers all over again give you inconsistent results. next thing you know your getting over water's an underwaters. over watere sites stall, PERIOD!!!



Verse floraflex cleaning. run pool shock inbetween runs to sterilize rez lines an feed. pre soak drip stakes. setup drip stakes, done. no adjusting needed once you know the system. all your adjusting is done at the recycle timer, or a line "cut off".



over the years ive made so many different drip or water manifolds. i'll have to say the floraflex is nice as long as you follow certain things.



not sure what gr866 is speaking of about being unlevel an changing feed. Dont think your setup right, man.



simply put, each manifold needs pressure. they do not feed right with low pressure. THEN you get inconsistencies!!


follow this an you can get a jump start...

what you need is a larger pump then you think you need. Flora flex need somewhat equal pressure in each manifold at every site.



use a Pre filter screen on the pump. run a large mag pump like a danner or go right for a centrifugal 1 hp pump. search ebay for shallow water pump, 1inch 120v industrial pump, bunch should come up fro $60-100. 1200w or so.





After the pump u need an inline sediment filter, rainbird makes one for $15-30. ebay as well


Use the Flroaflex drip reducer inserts!!!!!!!! I go with the 2gph tan colored inserts. If you go open flow its very inconsistent. the inserts reduce feed flow an increase pressure across the system. then you will get even flow 50ft from res.


If you can pitch the rigid pvc feed line so it drains back into the res after a feed event.Place the floraflex manifolds significantly higher then the edge of your potting container. this way the furthest manifold from the res is the highest. use a level when running the feed line an manifolds. all you need is like a 1/2inch every 10ft to have the lines drain back.



when building, if at all possible,keep the flora-flex manifolds higher then the pots. then the drip feed lines sloped down toawrds to the pot. NO SAGGS in then lines. NO SAGS! sags in the line will create stagnant water. run multiple lines to each pot for redundancy in the unlikely event of a clogged line.



also, i run 4 lines to each container. 4 lines with my pump/system with the 2gph tan reducers gives me 16oz of nutrient per site every 60 seconds of pump time on.



Say you arent mono cropped an you have a few slow drinkers in with the heavy drinkers. all you need to do is bend over a feed line to that site, now you just reduced flow to that site only by 25%. 2 lines bent over an twist tied now your 50% less feed an all the heavy drinkers dont get sacrificed.


in all i have about 30 manifolds an i have very little issues. my biggest problems where all from things i expressed above an now go by. allowing the system to drain after every watering event was a huge improvement.


best of luck

gmanwho,

I have a question with regards to your statement of "If you can pitch the rigid pvc feed line so it drains back into the res after a feed event."

Is your res under your table and you pump up into your manifolds? I'm in a situation where my res is a tall container to the right of my grow space with the base of the res about 10" below the rim of my pots. Pump sends liquid up out of the top of the res (30" tall res) and then down into the manifold which sits just below the top of my pots. the manifold is a closed loop all the way around the grow area (Pico Manifold), with risers that go above the tops of the pots to the regulating drip manifolds, which then have the .25" tubing running to the pots.

I haven't been able to figure out how to drain back to the res. No matter what, when my feed is over whatever doesn't drain back to the res from the top of the main feed line coming out of the op of the res, sits in the manifold until the next feed pushes it through.
 

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
gmanwho,

I have a question with regards to your statement of "If you can pitch the rigid pvc feed line so it drains back into the res after a feed event."

Is your res under your table and you pump up into your manifolds? I'm in a situation where my res is a tall container to the right of my grow space with the base of the res about 10" below the rim of my pots. Pump sends liquid up out of the top of the res (30" tall res) and then down into the manifold which sits just below the top of my pots. the manifold is a closed loop all the way around the grow area (Pico Manifold), with risers that go above the tops of the pots to the regulating drip manifolds, which then have the .25" tubing running to the pots.

I haven't been able to figure out how to drain back to the res. No matter what, when my feed is over whatever doesn't drain back to the res from the top of the main feed line coming out of the op of the res, sits in the manifold until the next feed pushes it through.


i run my rigid pvc an manifolds attached to the walls around the grow room. so technically you could run the line to the ceiling if your pump was strong enough. there are a few beter ways then running to the ceiling for certain.



so the pvc feed line starts just outside res height, an the last manifold is always the highest. pitched back to res. the 1/4 feed lines empty into the pot, an whatever is left in main pvc drains back into res.



bet if you went on IG an into florflex tags you will see what i speak of. of find simialr ideas for certain.. let me see if i can get a few pics up here..
 

ledtime

Member
Doh! I understand what you mean. technically I could run my feed manifold at the top of my grow space (above the top of the res and just have the quarter in lines come down from there and then I could pitch the pvc lines to drain back. Due to the height restriction of my space along with the tall res, I would have to pass a that would put my watering lines above my light and that is just a no/no. :p I do get it though.
 
A hydro delivery system based on moisture levels wouldn't work for me. I can feed at ec2.0 and they will still eat all the food, long before drinking all the water. I struggled with LED's until I realised this. Chasing deficiencies that I would never catch, until I started to fertigate when they had barely drank a third of what I had supplied. A fertigation solution with a balanced amount of food to water, would be an ec I can't even measure. Just poison. There is just no way I could make these work using LED's that give growth I can call progressing.

Please don’t take offense to what I’m about to say, but in my opinion you may be over thinking things. I always enjoy reading your posts and respect what you do and the effort you put in to constantly step up your game. I’ve seen your recent run-off posts and can’t help but be constantly reminded that measuring the run-off in coco isn’t a proper test of much at all. I do agree that it can be used as a sort of “hi/Lo” gauge, but not much more in terms of accuracy and precision. I think there is more at play than what the run-off is telling you and perhaps there is a happy medium to be found after all. The struggle is real, and I’m side by side fighting with you brother. I’d love to actually understand all this stuff lol. :laughing::tiphat:

OP, I am a Blumat user and have yet to find that happy medium.... but I’m still trying ! I figure I can easily convert to a regular drip/dtw setup if I can’t get them dialed in. In terms of doing what they say, they are great as long as you have enough pressure and don’t let the water stagnate in the lines.
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
How could I take offense :)
Run-off aside, my root zone ec crashes to deficiency levels, long before the water is due to be changed. Plants can take food, or water, they don't have to just take everything as they are given it. They're selective. If I feed at ec2.4 they are unhappy it's too strong. Then 5 hours later they are unhappy because it's too weak. The feeding rate isn't the same as the drinking rate, so trying to keep feeding them based on water consumption wouldn't work. Unless you set them to constantly run-off, which isn't the idea.

I known the run-off measurement isn't sitting right with some people. Entire forums exist where you can't even say it. I have used run-off as my only guide to feeding for many years though. The only important thing is actually root zone feed levels. Which effect the run-off ec in a drip to waste system. Not the supply tank. In fact, people with recirculating systems might set the tank on day 1, but then spend days just measuring and correcting used solution. Yet some of these people still think it doesn't make sense. Despite doing it constantly.

I'm intent on stepping the game up further, and having the lab test both supply and run-off to see in even greater detail what the plants want. Based on what they took.

I have been doing this for decades. I know what people say about my green, and I know what yields I'm getting. So it really doesn't matter to me if some people online think I'm doing it wrong.


I notice you say they are great, but also that you can't find a happy medium. Holding on to the idea you can convert to dripping. Equally without meaning to be rude, your idea of great seems to include things that don't work properly.

I'm gonna give your post some credit, for a nice rounded reply
 
I notice you say they are great, but also that you can't find a happy medium. Holding on to the idea you can convert to dripping. Equally without meaning to be rude, your idea of great seems to include things that don't work properly.

I'm gonna give your post some credit, for a nice rounded reply

Truth. I set up another area where I am hand watering to try to learn the medium and plants better. In hind sight, I should have done this first rather than go straight to Blumats and coco after a long hiatus and never using either. Still interested to see what conclusions you end up drawing after all of your run-off testing. Test on my friend :tiphat:
 

xtsho

Well-known member
I think that Blumats are a great product that performs exceptionally well for the purpose it's designed for. I have had absolutely no issues with them once they've been set properly. They sure simplify things. I grow in coco and I'll never hand water again. I keep about 15 gallons of nutrient solution in a reservoir and just top it off when needed. Gravity takes care of the rest.

I like to simplify things. I've used automated dripper systems in the past but I've found that Blumats are simpler and perform just as well for the task which is watering plants. I don't want to deal with timers, pumps, or runoff. Blumats take away the need for those components when irrigating your plants.
 
I think that Blumats are a great product that performs exceptionally well for the purpose it's designed for. I have had absolutely no issues with them once they've been set properly. They sure simplify things. I grow in coco and I'll never hand water again. I keep about 15 gallons of nutrient solution in a reservoir and just top it off when needed. Gravity takes care of the rest.

I like to simplify things. I've used automated dripper systems in the past but I've found that Blumats are simpler and perform just as well for the task which is watering plants. I don't want to deal with timers, pumps, or runoff. Blumats take away the need for those components when irrigating your plants.

So it sounds like you have found the “happy medium” in regards to nutrient levels and Blumats. Mind sharing your EC levels by week of flowering (calmag/base)? It would be very helpful for anyone still trying to dial in their Blumats.
 

Chevy cHaze

Out Of Dankness Cometh Light
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Hmmm I've certainly ran nutes through Blumats with zero issues.
I used the full line of HESI nutes back then. But your nutes best be salt based when using them with blumats and completely dissolve in the water. I heard people with organic nutes had some gunk problems in the res and respectively the lines.
CC
 

Cmoon

Member
Hmmm I've certainly ran nutes through Blumats with zero issues.
I used the full line of HESI nutes back then. But your nutes best be salt based when using them with blumats and completely dissolve in the water. I heard people with organic nutes had some gunk problems in the res and respectively the lines.
CC


Hesi went well for me also, growtec, dutchmasters etc, I now run a combination of canna and dutchpro, its no big deal to crack any salts off once a week on the small diameter drip, misters, peckers and common pump driven systems suffer the same things:tiphat:


Cmoon
 

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