newguy41410
Member
Did you guys notice yield was increasing slightly every time you reduced pot size? Or was it simply the same so might as well use less medium? Thanks again
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Blumat auto watering
- Thread starter sunnydog
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- blumat drippers irrigation watering
nastynate420
Member
I use the regular size carrots two per pot no matter the size. Two rounds ago I pulled 2.25 pounds off one plant in a 7 gallon smart pot with botanicare cocogro bricks using gavita flex on 500 watts. Of course it was overlapped by 1000w gavitas on either side of it so it was more like 800 watts probably on the micro mol/secon. The whole coco pot was like a rock when I was done with it with how many roots were in it. I've noticed that running a little extra coco doesn't hurt anything though, just a pain in the ass to pot and dump when you're done, but it's probably worth it, just don't overkill like you would soil. This run I'm running a huge GG4 under 1.5 1k gavita lights in 15 gallons in botanicare cocogro bagged coco that I'm hoping to pull 3-4 pounds off of. It'll probably be closer to 3 but definitely not any less than that. If you're running 4 plants under 800 watts I'd 2-3 would be fine. I'd do 3 if you're not using smart pot and maybe 2 if you are, but I'd lean on 3 if I was you.
nastynate420
Member
@rives, how many plants do you put under each 315?
The latter for me. I didn't see any real difference in yield, and using less medium was a huge benefit.
Either 3 or 4.
This run is small due to ordering seed and two times they have not arrived.
Two plants, with seeds I had, planted 7 got two up. Pyramide WW and SM's Super Citrus Haze.
Canna coco, Canna A&B, Cannazym, GH mycorrhiza 0.5 rate weekly, three weeks of Liquid Koolbloom - one week prior to 12/12 then two weeks into flower. Have not tried Canna Boost, but considering it.
One more transplant next week into 2 gal Smart Pots, then veg for two more weeks before going into flower. Want as much root mass as possible.
Going with 2 standard Blumat carrots per pot with weekly hand watering to 30%+ runoff of nutes plus SM90 and mycorrhiza, do not want to put the SM90 in the rez as had some probs in the past.
GR
Two plants, with seeds I had, planted 7 got two up. Pyramide WW and SM's Super Citrus Haze.
Canna coco, Canna A&B, Cannazym, GH mycorrhiza 0.5 rate weekly, three weeks of Liquid Koolbloom - one week prior to 12/12 then two weeks into flower. Have not tried Canna Boost, but considering it.
One more transplant next week into 2 gal Smart Pots, then veg for two more weeks before going into flower. Want as much root mass as possible.
Going with 2 standard Blumat carrots per pot with weekly hand watering to 30%+ runoff of nutes plus SM90 and mycorrhiza, do not want to put the SM90 in the rez as had some probs in the past.
GR
nastynate420
Member
seedsherenow.com ships from within the US so you don't have to worry about customs snagging your stuff.
Sorry in advance for my bad english, i have had problems also to understand something in this useful thread.
i wanna don't move the b/m inside sub for whole grow so I have 2 doubts if you can help me about the chance to don't have air inside the tubes and do a good job: my first exp in jr blumat wasn't good.
In the (tropf) blumat adjustment procedure you explain to screw on cap( nice and tight!) under water making sure not to trap any air and it is right in any type of blumats, ok but, if they drip water by the dripping tube not from the carrots water inside never go away or yes? (in the case f.e. the water in reserve ends you'll need to resetup the carrots with water to have a good runs?)
Second: i have 3 row of pots in gb and i'll use 888 + quick release to do the rows: could be useful linking together the end of the rows to have stability in the level of water or it could have pressure or air inside problems, for your exp?
Thanks for patience
i wanna don't move the b/m inside sub for whole grow so I have 2 doubts if you can help me about the chance to don't have air inside the tubes and do a good job: my first exp in jr blumat wasn't good.
In the (tropf) blumat adjustment procedure you explain to screw on cap( nice and tight!) under water making sure not to trap any air and it is right in any type of blumats, ok but, if they drip water by the dripping tube not from the carrots water inside never go away or yes? (in the case f.e. the water in reserve ends you'll need to resetup the carrots with water to have a good runs?)
Second: i have 3 row of pots in gb and i'll use 888 + quick release to do the rows: could be useful linking together the end of the rows to have stability in the level of water or it could have pressure or air inside problems, for your exp?
Thanks for patience
im using these in organic soil,with the digital meter buried roughly 3/4 way down the pot when i read 120-140 the top three inches are dry,pot feels way to light,when set at dropminus 2 when setting up they stay wet and heavy and digital reads around 75-80,using 3 gallon pots with 3 distribution drippers placed evenly around the surface,any ideas guys?
BusinessFactory
Member
I don't think you need the extra distro drippers in just a 3g. I know it sounds weird but just go down to 1 and see if you have more control. Adjust a tiny bit at a time. I also use some white out to set a reference point, it's easy to lose track of where you are.
business,when u use one at about 2-3 inches from carrot i also have alot of dry spots,when using organics we try to keep a moist leavel of soil not dry and not wet,they work awesome just having a fkn of a time dialing,do you find if u dial one pot in you can set the same setting from arrows on others as i find each different but im not a pro lol
BusinessFactory
Member
I am using living soil too and currently have a 5g with 2 drip points. It's perfect. I also have 3x 15g pots with 4 drip points each.
I adjust each carrot individually. I usually water them with the carrot completely off but in the soil. Wait a day, then get each blumat to a hanging drip, and dial it back 1 arrow. Sometimes I'll adjust on the fly depending if one feels too dry or wet but usually I can get it right with just a single adjustment the day after watering.
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BusinessFactory
Member
Weight and checking under the mulch to see if it's too dry.
Norm, the carrot is porous. That means although water cannot get out or into the carrot quickly, it can slowly pass either into or out of the carrot. So that is how the tropf blumat works. It is like Osmosis. When the media or soil around the carrot is dry, water inside the carrot will migrate out of the carrot and into the dry media or soil. When that happens, a partial vacuum is created inside the sealed carrot. That partial vacuum causes the flexible plastic seal in the top of the cap to deflect or bend downwards into the carrot. When the plastic seal bends downwards, it puts less pressure hose and the water can get past the point where the hose is pinched, causing the water to drip out of the hose.
The water continues to drip until the media or soil is completely saturated around the carrot. When the soil is complete saturated with water around the carrot, water is sucked back into the carrot by the partial vacuum in the carrot. Once enough water has been sucked into the carrot to eliminate the partial vacuum inside the carrot, no more water is going to be sucked into the carrot. At that point, the flexible plastic liner in the top of the carrot is going to return to its normal, unflexed position, which will reduce the gap between the liner and the adjustment screw, pinching the flex line and cutting off the water so that it stops dripping.
There are lots of drawing in this thread that show how to connect the ends of the rows, if you are doing rows, or how to do a loop, with two connections to the highest reservoir, and then, at the furthest point away from the reservoir, put in a line and a valve. You then open the valve and run enough water out of the line to make sure that there are no air pockets in the lines. By using two connections to the reservoir and having a purge line at the furthest point on the line away from the reservoir, you can be sure that there is no air in the lines and that there is equal pressure in all your rows.
Heady Blunts posted some good information and diagrams in this post:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=4975242&postcount=1806
If you make the loop, you can run three rows of plants by putting two rows of plants outside the loop and another row of plants inside the loop. The little feeder lines give you flexibility.
rives is also a reliable source of good information on blumat systems on this thread:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=4969587&postcount=1789
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=4975242&postcount=1806
If you make the loop, you can run three rows of plants by putting two rows of plants outside the loop and another row of plants inside the loop. The little feeder lines give you flexibility.
rives is also a reliable source of good information on blumat systems on this thread:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=4969587&postcount=1789
I'll have to try waiting a day like that. I've just been waiting an hour or few. They're always a little fiddly for me at first until I get them balanced just so...
spaceboy
Active member
Can somebody tell me why my pots are drying out? I have them on a pump system from sustainable village, which seems to be doing a good job keeping constant pressure, but a few pots are nearly bone dry 24 hour later and other seem like they are pretty close to being dry.
I'm in coco and when I set them up I only dialed back 1 arrow because I want them on the wetter side. Should I flush the pots out and reset them? So far I have turned the flow up 1 arrow, but they are still dry and that was a 5 hours ago.
I'm in coco and when I set them up I only dialed back 1 arrow because I want them on the wetter side. Should I flush the pots out and reset them? So far I have turned the flow up 1 arrow, but they are still dry and that was a 5 hours ago.
Are they clogged? Do you see the 3mm line dripping?
The first couple days you might have to tweak them a bit. I put a saucer under each pot. The ones that fill up the saucer, I tighten up a little. The ones that are too dry, I open up a little. Just make very small adjustments open or close to dial them in. When they are in the well and good range, leave them alone.
