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Blumat auto watering

SamsonsRiddle

Active member
i've been lurking around here for the last 3-4 weeks since i've purchased my blumats (and upgraded the system) and currently have 2 carrots with 3 extra distribution drippers going to each plant (3.5 gallon mopping pails). The blumats are working fine, as i have them dialed in to keep the medium damp which is what pro mix bx seems to like. My problem is my reservoir.

I am only using a 7 gallon reservoir because as you can guess, that's more than enough for what it has to cover. I usually only have 1-2 gallons in it at a time to keep fresh nutrient water going in. I noticed a few days ago it started to smell, so i've been on a non-stop research binge on how to keep reservoirs clean, pythium, h2o2, bleach and everything else you can think of... I run a mild nutrient solution of .3 ec during veg and up to .6 ec during flower. (dyna gro foliage pro with protekt for veg; Foliage Pro, Protekt, and Floralicious Plus during flower - drip clean throughout)

How do i keep this fucker from stinking? Would and air stone and some bleach work? I see a few pages back that bleach will destroy some of the lines, but what if i don't care because i'd rather have to buy new lines than try to set up the system every few days?
 

Ez Rider

Active member
Veteran
i've been lurking around here for the last 3-4 weeks since i've purchased my blumats (and upgraded the system) and currently have 2 carrots with 3 extra distribution drippers going to each plant (3.5 gallon mopping pails). The blumats are working fine, as i have them dialed in to keep the medium damp which is what pro mix bx seems to like. My problem is my reservoir.

I am only using a 7 gallon reservoir because as you can guess, that's more than enough for what it has to cover. I usually only have 1-2 gallons in it at a time to keep fresh nutrient water going in. I noticed a few days ago it started to smell, so i've been on a non-stop research binge on how to keep reservoirs clean, pythium, h2o2, bleach and everything else you can think of... I run a mild nutrient solution of .3 ec during veg and up to .6 ec during flower. (dyna gro foliage pro with protekt for veg; Foliage Pro, Protekt, and Floralicious Plus during flower - drip clean throughout)

How do i keep this fucker from stinking? Would and air stone and some bleach work? I see a few pages back that bleach will destroy some of the lines, but what if i don't care because i'd rather have to buy new lines than try to set up the system every few days?

Distribution drippers are way overkill for 3gal pots. Just the carrot is good for at least up to a 7gal pot.

Sounds like you're running some stinky shit(floralicious). I'm not familiar with the others, but floralicious by itself makes for a stinky res. It may sludge up the 3mm lines too, especially since you're gravity fed. I run a 25 gal rez with v+b RO formula, and it never smells at all. I've run botanicare too, but the liquid karma(similar to floralicious) stinks, and likes to clog the lines.
 

Jhhnn

Active member
Veteran
I think it's probably a good idea for anybody who gets sediment in their water to use a filter on the inlet side of the pressure reducer. It's important to remember that the metering valve in the carrot creates a very small & easily clogged restriction in the 3mm tube. Even tiny flecks of crap will likely send it wonky. Keeping open tubing clean is a good idea, too. Don't drop the end in the dirt. Flush well.

Strainers are good but they don't stop the smaller stuff as well as a filter, something like this-

https://www.filtersfast.com/10-inch-Small-Housing-cat.asp

https://www.filtersfast.com/P-CWF-Culligan-Sediment-Filter.asp

Using the right adapter bits can provide a clean installation.

I don't need to do that because I'm blessed to have Denver Water, some of the best.
 

SamsonsRiddle

Active member
Distribution drippers are way overkill for 3gal pots. Just the carrot is good for at least up to a 7gal pot.

Sounds like you're running some stinky shit(floralicious). I'm not familiar with the others, but floralicious by itself makes for a stinky res. It may sludge up the 3mm lines too, especially since you're gravity fed. I run a 25 gal rez with v+b RO formula, and it never smells at all. I've run botanicare too, but the liquid karma(similar to floralicious) stinks, and likes to clog the lines.

Dyna Gro Foliage Pro is a cheap, all in one nutrient (9-3-6) and protekt is a silicon supplement (0-0-3). I actually haven't even tried the floralicious + yet in the reservoir and am trying to figure out some way to incorporate it without putting it through the lines.

The reason i am using drippers is because promix has a tendency to just go straight through when watering (thats one reason why i add vermiculite to my mix) and it was only wetting one side of the plant.

I added some bleach and am going to have to see what happens and report back.
 

Sativan

Member
I made my own DIY self-watering system. Less than $60 and it works on a recycle timer. I' m about to start using because I'm going away for three weeks. It really works great.
 

Bwanabud

Active member
The reason i am using drippers is because promix has a tendency to just go straight through when watering (thats one reason why i add vermiculite to my mix) and it was only wetting one side of the plant.

I added some bleach and am going to have to see what happens and report back.

Blumat told me that multiple drippers allow for a more even watering in the media, I'm using 1 sensor, 3 drippers, and 2 flush stakes in 5 gallon pots....mine is an injection system
 

Bwanabud

Active member
Wtf is a "flush stake"?

They are run with 1/4" line, 2 per pot,,,used for flushing media to control ph, ppm, and flushing salts if present. I valved all of mine so to control each grid of 4 plants, so I don't have to flush the whole room if I choose not to....just the stakes are 90 cents US a piece, and then need 1/4" line/fittings. I flip a valve at each table/split into 2 grids of 4, and can either feed/water or flush...don't have to take anything apart or move hoses.

https://www.sustainablevillage.com/...t/product&path=59_69&product_id=304&limit=100

They look like this but bright blue in color, maybe 8"-9" long.




For those running ProMix it's the shit to control your media integrity.
 

Ez Rider

Active member
Veteran
They are run with 1/4" line, 2 per pot,,,used for flushing media to control ph, ppm, and flushing salts if present. I valved all of mine so to control each grid of 4 plants, so I don't have to flush the whole room if I choose not to....just the stakes are 90 cents US a piece, and then need 1/4" line/fittings. I flip a valve at each table/split into 2 grids of 4, and can either feed/water or flush...don't have to take anything apart or move hoses.

https://www.sustainablevillage.com/...t/product&path=59_69&product_id=304&limit=100

They look like this but bright blue in color, maybe 8"-9" long.

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=64854&pictureid=1588129&thumb=1]View Image[/URL]


For those running ProMix it's the shit to control your media integrity.

I think I'd just run a res or 2 of plain water here and there, if I was worried about buildup. Staying around 1.0EC for most of the grow seems to work for me. I do run plain water the last 2 weeks. I'm not seeing how the stakes are very practical, unless you've got a separate res and lines for them, or maybe a dosimeter based system. Can you give me a little more detail on how you use them?
 

Bwanabud

Active member
I'm running a separate rez with a flip Y valve, that switches intake feed...then it runs thru the same pump/accumulator system into the main 8mm tubing. At that point I have a 3 way valve at each grid(4 plants), 2 valves per table...that I can open to feed(8mm to 3mm)or flush(8mm to 1/4")to flush.

It serves a huge purpose for me, I end up flushing at least 2 times per bud cycle...sometimes 3. And I also can flush the veg plants the same way, same system. If you're using straight Promix and synthetic nutes, then the media is taking a serious PH dive...thus flushing whatever ph water you want to clear the problem. I just checked mine today, and had dropped 1.5 points in PH,,,,flip the valve and stand there watching the plants flushing runoff down the table drains :)

Just plain water a couple times for feed won't fix PM ph problems.

No work, no hassle,,,flip a couple valves and done.
 

Ez Rider

Active member
Veteran
I'm running a separate rez with a flip Y valve, that switches intake feed...then it runs thru the same pump/accumulator system into the main 8mm tubing. At that point I have a 3 way valve at each grid(4 plants), 2 valves per table...that I can open to feed(8mm to 3mm)or flush(8mm to 1/4")to flush.

It serves a huge purpose for me, I end up flushing at least 2 times per bud cycle...sometimes 3. And I also can flush the veg plants the same way, same system. If you're using straight Promix and synthetic nutes, then the media is taking a serious PH dive...thus flushing whatever ph water you want to clear the problem. I just checked mine today, and had dropped 1.5 points in PH,,,,flip the valve and stand there watching the plants flushing runoff down the table drains :)

Just plain water a couple times for feed won't fix PM ph problems.

No work, no hassle,,,flip a couple valves and done.

You're describing all the reasons I switched to coco.
 

Ez Rider

Active member
Veteran
I use about 25 bales of Promix a month, now you know why I don't use Coco :) ...But that has nothing to do with the Blumat system or flush stakes.

Understood:bow:I just find peat mixes a lot more difficult to maintain than coco. Why do you prefer the peat based mix? The price is about the same(for me), and the coco seems a lot more stable PH wise.
 

Bwanabud

Active member
Understood:bow:I just find peat mixes a lot more difficult to maintain than coco. Why do you prefer the peat based mix? The price is about the same(for me), and the coco seems a lot more stable PH wise.

I agree with you, I've run both ways and the Coco is easier to get dialed in...but the PM is much more accessible in large bulk in my area....I mix 50/50 with chunk Perlite, so flushes/drainage isn't an issue. If I had access to large bags of coco in bulk, i'd certainly be using your method. I had intended to do a run of mixed media of PM/Coco, just haven't had the time..I run 12 months a year, and rarely find "extra" time.

Promix is a cheap quality product, it just has to be controlled and constantly checked...if handled properly it does a great job...your ph & ppm meters are your friends, and checking run-offs become a basic requirement :tiphat:
 
Ok so I've been using 2x Maxi spikes in my 15 gallon pots. I think I was having overwatering issues so I've pulled the blumats out and have been hand watering. Things are looking better.

So now I want to add the blumats back but this time with 3 distribution drippers per spikefor more even coverage.

Does anyone have suggestions for setting the distro drippers? Should I just set the spike to clinging drip -2 arrows, then add the distro drippers on? Or should I try to dial them in with the distros already on?

I am using coots recipe organic soil if that matters. Thanks for any help!!
 

SamsonsRiddle

Active member
I started phing my nutrients going in to my promix bx w/ myco, but found out from a reliable member on another forum that there is no need for it. I stopped phing during the first week of flower last run and saw no ill effects from it. I haven't ph'ed my reservoir once. No extra lime or anything to my mix either.

The bleach has kept my reservoir smelling like plain water and i have just started hand watering in some of my mixed solution with added floralicious plus. This way i can incorporate it into the regimen without funking up my lines.
 

SamsonsRiddle

Active member
Ok so I've been using 2x Maxi spikes in my 15 gallon pots. I think I was having overwatering issues so I've pulled the blumats out and have been hand watering. Things are looking better.

So now I want to add the blumats back but this time with 3 distribution drippers per spikefor more even coverage.

Does anyone have suggestions for setting the distro drippers? Should I just set the spike to clinging drip -2 arrows, then add the distro drippers on? Or should I try to dial them in with the distros already on?

I am using coots recipe organic soil if that matters. Thanks for any help!!

I would have the whole system set up before i would try to dial it in. In coco, you'll probably want it less than 2 arrows back.
 

sunnydog

Drip King
Veteran
I think people would have far less problems if they would, for the most part, simply follow the instructions.
 

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