Blue residue on nail after dab

[Elements001]

First run may have stripped more trichomes off diluting the metals so they were more dispersed, limiting the amount of color change. Or, the first run may have acted like a filter for the 2nd run, trapping many of the metals in the material while dissolving the thc. Then on the 2nd run there wasnt as much material that would dissolve, and metal from the first, as well as second, would accumulate in the final product. Just a theory. Stubbed the fuck out of my toe, might have broke it, taking huge dab.

I really dont think it's your nail, something in the butane your blasting with. or the tools your using to blast with.

Did you do anything different other than it being a 2nd run? Any different kind of blade, or metal container?

 

[SkyHighLer]

Yeah that what i'm going to do. Just wondering Sky what is your personal favourite butane to use?

I haven't yet gotten back into extracting since doing the butane residue tests, I've got a can of Lotus that I'm eager to try, Ultra Pure also seems to be of extraordinary quality. If I could I'd trade almost all the brands of butane I have left over for Zippo or Ronson.

 

[Gray Wolf]

My nail isn't name brand like HE or anything so I can't be sure, but it was best (most expensive) one they had at the headshop.

Also the nail still works perfectly fine and normal when I dab my first run stuff on it. It only happens from the 2nd run stuff.

So how could have metals have gotten into the oil from an identical process just from 2nd blast?

Under no circumstances should the nail have scale left on it after a high temperature cook out.

Does the scale go away when you heat it to bright orange?

 

[C'Ya]

That much residue left over after a dab seems like nail cooled down to fast could be to big of a dab or dabber is absorbing heat from nail which is possible if held in one spot and/or has large thermal mass, and make sure to season your dabber to may have some effect if has oil/polish on it. Also if have quartz nail see if leaves same results that would help rule out nail.
And what GW said about scale shouldn't be there after burn off.

 

[SteelyMcKush]

I really dont think it's your nail, something in the butane your blasting with. or the tools your using to blast with.

Did you do anything different other than it being a 2nd run? Any different kind of blade, or metal container?

Well I used Colibri butane to extract for both runs. And pretty much the exact same process, same exact blades as first run cleaned with an iso wash.

@ Gray Wolf - Yes the scale goes away when I heat it to bright orange.

@ C'Ya - Ya it does seem to leave a lot more residue from a 'cooler' dab.

 

[C'Ya]

SMcK I'd try learning the nail in low light dab, best way to see when it hits its sweet spot because can watch it lose its cherry color and get a nice even mild red color somewhere just above or below that is normally a good area to test with depending on dab size and move that dabber it'll absorb the heat if left in one spot, and try to cap the dome off some as cools/pools it does help get that last bit

 

[CannabisTHC]

There should be zero scale after dabbing, if the nail was baked clean before the dab.

Is that colored scale tightly adhering like it looks?

Colors that vivid are usually metalic oxides and nitrides.

That suggests two possibilities. If the scale is coming from the nail, the nail isn't CP Titanium.

If it is coming from what you're dabbing, I suggest having it analyzed for metals.

I use a Highly Educated Infinity nail so it is medical grade 2 titanium, I've had it for a few years although just started using the small dish for the enail a few months ago, so the dish is new. The oil I use is made with Lucienne and is vac'd in a vac oven at 110 for 45 min or so. The only other oil that I've used on my nail is some local oil that a buddy made which was made with the soak method and that was vac'd in a vac oven for 24 hours at 75 degrees or so. I can't remember which oil caused the colors on the nail but they are both clean oil used with an enail at 660F degrees.

 

[Gray Wolf]

I use a Highly Educated Infinity nail so it is medical grade 2 titanium, I've had it for a few years although just started using the small dish for the enail a few months ago, so the dish is new. The oil I use is made with Lucienne and is vac'd in a vac oven at 110 for 45 min or so. The only other oil that I've used on my nail is some local oil that a buddy made which was made with the soak method and that was vac'd in a vac oven for 24 hours at 75 degrees or so. I can't remember which oil caused the colors on the nail but they are both clean oil used with an enail at 660F degrees.

View Image

Those are classic red and blue Titanium oxidation and gold nitriding colors.

Beyond question, the colors you are seeing are from the Titanium developing an alpha case.

Your nail cannot be seasoned, or it would already have a full alpha case.

It looks like something is scaling off in the lower right quadrant. Is that true, or an optical delusion?

 

[cyphaman]

110F for 45 minutes? I would try vacuuming for several hours and doing multiple flips until you dont see any signs of gas. You shouldn't see bubbly black residue (carbon soot) and funny colors IMO, but right off the bat your purge times seem very minimal and possibly the cause here.

 

[BrainChild]

I season my new nails by repeatedly heating them to bright orange red and letting them cool in the atmosphere so as to form an inert alpha case of Titanium Dioxide and Titanium Nitrites on the surface.

When I use my nail, I heat it to a bright orange red often, to reduce any organics to CO2, and then let it cool down to sub red before using. In between super heating, I heat to red and let it lose all color before dabbing. If you experiment starting with delays from the red loss point, it is easy to find your sweet spot.

Hi,

I've got an Highly Educated domeless TI nail (supposedly grade 2 cp) that I've seen those colors on, but I haven't seen such a residue...

I did not season the nail in the way you describe, rather I heated the nail up pretty hot and let it cool down a bit like I would take a dab, then I "painted" oil on the nail as to create a season layer. Pretty much like a skillet you cook on.

Do you mean you don't put oil on when you season, rather just super heat repeatedly? If so, do you think I could still get the alpha case layer to form even though I didn't season my nail this way?

Thanks

 

[CannabisTHC]

Those are classic red and blue Titanium oxidation and gold nitriding colors.

Beyond question, the colors you are seeing are from the Titanium developing an alpha case.

Your nail cannot be seasoned, or it would already have a full alpha case.

It looks like something is scaling off in the lower right quadrant. Is that true, or an optical delusion?

Oh ok well that's good to know. When I took that picture it must have still been seasoning. I seasoned another ti nail recently and it got the blue color on the nail but wasn't anything like this so it confused me. I don't see anything on that dish scaling off when I look at it in person must be the picture. The picture doesn't make that nail look very good lol, even though it is a highly educated nail and had only been used for a few months with that dish and hardly with a torch either mostly just the enail.

110F for 45 minutes? I would try vacuuming for several hours and doing multiple flips until you dont see any signs of gas. You shouldn't see bubbly black residue (carbon soot) and funny colors IMO, but right off the bat your purge times seem very minimal and possibly the cause here.

No you'll see Greywolf says the same. I've been making oil for 6+ years and been using my vac oven longer than most on here. I've tried all different kinds of methods. I know how to purge butane from oil. I'm not giving you my exact process this is just a rough guideline of my process. The black residue is waxes, lipids, fats from the plant using an open extraction. If I winterized you wouldn't see this but that tends to take away terpenes depending on the method.

 

[CannabisTHC]

Here is what Task Rok says about seasoning his Highly Educated nails:

"So what temperature should you apply it at for best seasoning? Its hard to say an exact number as I haven’t conducted thorough experiments with controlled variables. Water boils around 212º F depending on atmospheric pressure, it’s critical point is 705º F, and it was experiencing the leidenfrost at temperatures as low as 339.8º F on a polished surface. If I were to guess I would say essential oils probably have a slightly higher leidenfrost point than water, but that is only a guess, and I would assume painting and spreading oil on a brand new nail around 400-700º F will season it much more effectively than temperatures exceeding that."

 

[cyphaman]

yes if you are running trim or other cruddy material youll get lipids and waxes on the nail too....

 

[Jetlife]

too me it looks like a mixture of a nail that has been overheated AND improperly purged BHO. Lowtemp dabs are much smoother and tastier, and oil needs to be purged much longer then 45minutes. Depending on the run id vac a minimum of 15 hours up to 48 hours depending on the run and strain.

 

[CannabisTHC]

yes if you are running trim or other cruddy material youll get lipids and waxes on the nail too....

I run all bud and I get rid of all leaves and stems.

too me it looks like a mixture of a nail that has been overheated AND improperly purged BHO. Lowtemp dabs are much smoother and tastier, and oil needs to be purged much longer then 45minutes. Depending on the run id vac a minimum of 15 hours up to 48 hours depending on the run and strain.

You should try reading what I've written I use an enail at 660 degrees which is a very low temperature when using a carb cap, that dish rarely goes above that temperature. You can't go any lower than that and if you do it becomes too airy of a hit. My oil is tasty, smooth, and stable there are many people in Colorado that think my oil is some of the best.

Running under vac for that long will decarboxylate your oil, enjoy your decarbed oil.

 

[Jetlife]

I run all bud and I get rid of all leaves and stems.



You should try reading what I've written I use an enail at 660 degrees which is a very low temperature when using a carb cap, that dish rarely goes above that temperature. You can't go any lower than that and if you do it becomes too airy of a hit. My oil is tasty, smooth, and stable there are many people in Colorado that think my oil is some of the best.

Running under vac for that long will decarboxylate your oil, enjoy your decarbed oil.

im sorry but you are just wrong. you are telling me the vac decarbs your oil? haha id love to hear your THEORY on this... Decarbing is done by bringing the thc to an active state with heat... so what does a vac have to do with that? unless you vac at a temperature that is wayyy hotter then you should. LOOK at your nail.. you can see the residuals left behind from your underpurged oil. Id love to see the PPM results from that LOL. I feel your tech is flawed and id love to see what some claim to be "some of the best oil"

PS i was referring to the OP when i replied but since you took offence lets talk about your problems.

 

[CannabisTHC]

im sorry but you are just wrong. you are telling me the vac decarbs your oil? haha id love to hear your THEORY on this... Decarbing is done by bringing the thc to an active state with heat... so what does a vac have to do with that? unless you vac at a temperature that is wayyy hotter then you should. LOOK at your nail.. you can see the residuals left behind from your underpurged oil. Id love to see the PPM results from that LOL. I feel your tech is flawed and id love to see what some claim to be "some of the best oil"

PS i was referring to the OP when i replied but since you took offence lets talk about your problems.

I thought it was pretty clear you were talking to me when you said this "and oil needs to be purged much longer then 45minutes." Since I had said that a few posts earlier.

You sure are basing this on very little information, I'm assuming you've never heard of the thin film technique when purging? The amount of time you vac all depends on this, how thick a layer of oil you have. The thinner the layer of oil the quicker you will be able to vac your oil. Say you had .2" thick layer of oil that would take considerably longer than .05" layer of oil.

Vacuums lower the boiling point of the extract there is a graph that shows this for THC. If you run a full vacuum for prolonged periods of time even at room temperature you will decarboxylate your oil. Decarboxylation doesn't just happen under higher heat. I'll find the graph that I'm talking about. The residuals are waxes, fats, and lipids think whatever you like. I don't claim it to be some of the best oil this is what people have told me. This very well may be from the other oil that I got from a buddy which was made with the soak method and this will tend to cause more residuals. Or may be from numerous dabs, which it probably was, which will cause a build up of residuals.

 

[SteelyMcKush]

I thought it was pretty clear you were talking to me when you said this "and oil needs to be purged much longer then 45minutes." Since I had said that a few posts earlier.

Especially since I never said anything about 45 minutes in the first place, so he was talking to you..back-peddler lol.

I don't think we need to even be discussing the nail at this point. I already said that I didn't get any coloured residue when I used my first run concentrate, and the nail bakes perfectly clean and normal after being heated.

I have had the nail for a few months and have loved it and already found what I consider to be my sweet spot when letting cool for dab.

I'm determined to find out why its happening on the second run stuff.

I used identical set ups for both runs. Colibri butane for both runs, a butane that is accepted here to be clean and without metals.

I used a QP tube and blasted into a warm bath, then scraped and vacuumed at 110-115 for 2-3 hours for both runs. I need some help on the thin film technique, I couldnt get it nearly as thin as I wanted.

Only difference is I used unground buds for the first run, then the same material dried and ground for the second blast..Actually I also froze the tube the first run.

So for those like Gray Wolf who believe it is residual metal showing up on my nail, how could it have possibly gotten in there?

 

[Gray Wolf]

Hi,

I've got an Highly Educated domeless TI nail (supposedly grade 2 cp) that I've seen those colors on, but I haven't seen such a residue...

I did not season the nail in the way you describe, rather I heated the nail up pretty hot and let it cool down a bit like I would take a dab, then I "painted" oil on the nail as to create a season layer. Pretty much like a skillet you cook on.

Do you mean you don't put oil on when you season, rather just super heat repeatedly? If so, do you think I could still get the alpha case layer to form even though I didn't season my nail this way?

Thanks

Even the Ti alloys go through the rainbow, so it isn't an indicator of purity. My tongue in cheek guess is that HE would be an honorable supplier.

The electric coil might be short lived if you used it to season or regularly clean nails, so I would take the coil off for those steps and replace it afterwards.

Coating with oil forms carbides, which are about as inert as the oxides and nitrides, so they all work. The Ti just needs to be hot enough in their presence to react all the exposed metal. Once you've formed a good alpha case, it isn't necessary to do it again.

 

[cyphaman]

You sure are basing this on very little information, I'm assuming you've never heard of the thin film technique when purging? The amount of time you vac all depends on this, how thick a layer of oil you have. The thinner the layer of oil the quicker you will be able to vac your oil. Say you had .2" thick layer of oil that would take considerably longer than .05" layer of oil.

This is SO incorrect sir. Especially if you have two different size slabs that are spread exactly the same thickness (very thin).

Just because you are purging less oil, does not necessarily mean it will take less time. It means the reaction (bubbles) will be much smaller and harder to see. Purging 8 grams vs 1 gram if they are both spread super thin, will take about the same amount of time believe me I've tried to cut corners too.

Exactly my point, you are running nug so you shouldn't see clumps of lipids and waxes on the nail after a dab. hence, why I will stick to my original assumption. You seem very defensive, for someone who is asking for help you sure have a lot of answers.