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BIOCANNA - Anyone tried this line?

B

BasementGrower

hi kalbhaira,my reason for switching from biocanna to oldtimers was more about the premature yellowing i was having after switching to bloom.i believe this happens becouse of the sudden drop of n in the bloom foods during the switch from grow to bloom.after seaching through the internet and forums i found a lot of people stick with grow for the first two weeks to help the stretch and stock up on n levels.also i find biocanna nute ratios a bit strange,2.5n,2p,5k in there bioflores compared to 3,5,4 oldtimers.i have also used biobizz line and it is interesting to note that they reccomend using 1ml grow alongside there bloom all throughout flowering.i can honestly say i have had good results using all 3 lines so please dont think i am trying to push you away from biocanna,its just my expierience and my prefference.what i will say is plant magic soil is amazing,so fluffy and light and no perlite,some sort of biodegradable foam in its place so it doesnt float to the top when watering.just a side note i have recently been adding a bit of fine dolomite lime to my soil and this has help kept them greener through bloom,the cal,mag in the dolomite.
l

its been said. use vega till the end of stretch. then flores all the way till flush.
 

subrob

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Best tasting herb ive ever grown was w bio canna...not even close...i havent used every nute line out there...but i love the bio canna...would still be using it if i could...though i might try the bio terra nutes and soil this time around...again...if i could still get it
 

Kalbhairav

~~ ॐ नमः शिवाय ~~
Veteran
Thank you all for your contributions.. I have just bought everything bar the Rhizotonic as I have a little left of another brands root juice.

Lets see what I can do with them :)
 

OMRIorganics

New member
Decent at best

Decent at best

I used the Bio line for two grows and switched immediately. My yields went down from my other organic recipes and it wasnt as full flavored. Add that to the fact that they had slight ca mg deficiencies throughout the cycles and k mid flower not bad but deficiencies were present. The Bio boost is way over priced IMO plus they claim you dont need to PH the bio line and thats not true my results were better when i did PH my nutrient solution. Overall i was not satisfied and i wouldnt recommend it. One Love
 
There is BioRhizotonic now.

I'm about to run this whole line. I find it a bit odd that some people don't use it as directed or don't use the full line but then have negative opinions about it.

It works as a system. If you patch together other products from other companies problems seem a lot more likely. It is usually difficult to do that and avoid product overlap. Likewise, there seems to be an underfeeding craze going on lately. To each their own, but you don't make big dense resinous buds out of just water and air; remember that you are converting nutrients into buds.

I know people who have run the line as-is and per Canna's chart (but with added calmag; not sure why they don't slip that in somewhere) who have had some amazing results. So I'm going to give it a whirl. I'll let you all know how it goes. I'll be using the Bio Vega until the end of the second week of flower as Canna recommends on their chart, and I'll be feeding them every watering with a two week flush at the end.
 

Xanode

Member
instead of starting a new thread, ill try and post my question about biocanna here:

When I makeup either a bio vega or flores solution according to medium strength canna schedule it ends up "PHing" out at 4.7. My starting water is 120ppm, 7.0Ph, carbon filtered/dechlorinated tap water. And the medium used is fresh canna terra soil. According to what I've read, biocanna doesn't usually need to be PH adjusted. But 4.7? Is that too low?
 

frostqueen

Active member
So.. Have been thinking of trying an organic line of fertilizers for some time now. The reason I'm thinking of going with biocanna is because I generally usethe canna chem line in soil.

I've done a little research and found conflicting opinions on this organic line.Is there anyone here who's used biocanna?

If not then maybe some of you can suggest an alternative. I'll be growing in soil and would like, in a perfect world, to have as little bottles about the place as possible.. Im all for simplicity. Another thing to note is that Im based in Europe and not all of the organic lines from the US can be found here which is why biocnna was at the top of the list..

Would love to hear your thoughts.. :)

I've had great results with the BioCanna line. Great yields and quality. You are seeing mixed opinions in part because many people don't use the entire line, just parts of it. Part of the reason for that is likely the cost; part of it is also probably the 'less is better!' mentality that being peddled in forums. Less is not better. More is not better. The right amount is better.

Just using part of the Canna line will give you partial returns. This line is a system, and using the BioBoost at the full recommended strength is key. If you use the entire line at the dosage recommended on the label you should see fantastic results. If you give the plants less than recommended of any component you will get less than optimum results.

This product (and many other expensive products) can pay for itself many many times over. Using 'less!' and feeling proud about that is being penny-wise and pound-foolish. I say this after using this product for 3 years at various strengths and on various genotypes. Their feed chart is optimum.

Keep in mind that Canna spent millions of dollars researching and developing this line and did trials to determine how much of it to use. As much as I like to typically think that I know better than any product manufacturer does... that's just not the case. They want you to succeed so you keep buying their product.

I've done trials of many different nutrient lines, and I always begin by following their feed chart EXACTLY. If I see issues I may adjust later, but starting by using a partial line or a partial feeding dosage is no way to assess a product.

Feel free to PM me about specifics.
 

frostqueen

Active member
instead of starting a new thread, ill try and post my question about biocanna here:

When I makeup either a bio vega or flores solution according to medium strength canna schedule it ends up "PHing" out at 4.7. My starting water is 120ppm, 7.0Ph, carbon filtered/dechlorinated tap water. And the medium used is fresh canna terra soil. According to what I've read, biocanna doesn't usually need to be PH adjusted. But 4.7? Is that too low?

I've used this line extensively. I always adjusted my ph to within the 5.5 to 6.2 zone with excellent results. 4.7 is pretty low. The microbes do have a way of dealing with low ph situations, but a bit higher guarantees that all stays well and uptake is optimum.
 

Xanode

Member
I've used this line extensively. I always adjusted my ph to within the 5.5 to 6.2 zone with excellent results. 4.7 is pretty low. The microbes do have a way of dealing with low ph situations, but a bit higher guarantees that all stays well and uptake is optimum.

thanks for replying frostqueen, awesome to know that you have some good experience with biocanna.

I have a couple more questions, I'm testing for myself a couple 250ml bottles of vega and flores on one plant, average eater, Afghan skunk. In a 5lt pot, 45cm tall, 18days in flower

In regards to the medium used and feed strength/frequency, canna states something on the bottle like: "feed 1-3 times per week depending on the fertility of the potting mix".

I'm using CANNA Terra Professional potting mix. I'm not sure if you have used it or not, there is some food in it, about 2 waterings worth before runoff ppm drops below 500. What would be ur best guess as to how fertile it is and how often I should feed/give plain water.
Water brings me to my next Q.

I have been reading that cal/mag may be required, also that the line relies's heavily on medium fertility to get some micros. I do have calimagic and a kelp/fulvic/microbe additive on hand.

I have RO or filtered tap with runs out at 120ppm.

Which water would be the better choice? I'm leaning towards tap as it has been filtered of chloramines and will help with some micros.

Thanks.
 

frostqueen

Active member
thanks for replying frostqueen, awesome to know that you have some good experience with biocanna.

I have a couple more questions, I'm testing for myself a couple 250ml bottles of vega and flores on one plant, average eater, Afghan skunk. In a 5lt pot, 45cm tall, 18days in flower

In regards to the medium used and feed strength/frequency, canna states something on the bottle like: "feed 1-3 times per week depending on the fertility of the potting mix".

I'm using CANNA Terra Professional potting mix. I'm not sure if you have used it or not, there is some food in it, about 2 waterings worth before runoff ppm drops below 500. What would be ur best guess as to how fertile it is and how often I should feed/give plain water.

The amount of food in the soil mix is just enough to get you rolling. I wouldn't worry about overfeeding with it. If you are transplanting into this during veg, I'd start out using 5ml/gallon of the Vega to start until the roots are established. Then shift up to 8ml.

I did 'feed-feed-compost tea' throughout veg and bloom, so basically no food every third watering. If you aren't into teas, I would go with water and add in your kelp/fulvic/microbes. I used a product called Sea Green as an additional microbial booster.

Water brings me to my next Q.

I have been reading that cal/mag may be required, also that the line relies's heavily on medium fertility to get some micros. I do have calimagic and a kelp/fulvic/microbe additive on hand.

Yes, definitely add the CalMag. I'm pretty sure CalMag Plus has micros in it, but you may need to supplement a bit more. For that I love a product called TM-7; it is fulvic/humics with micronutrients.

It's hard for me to gauge how much more you might need. I used a soil mix that is 50% ProMix HP and 50% Fox Farm Ocean Forest, and the OFO has a ton of crab and kelp meal that contain micros so I didn't really need much more. I used the TM-7 every third time (during the tea or water-only phase), this after week 2 of flower, and all went well.

I have RO or filtered tap with runs out at 120ppm.

Which water would be the better choice? I'm leaning towards tap as it has been filtered of chloramines and will help with some micros.

Thanks.

I think either of those would be fine. There is a guy around here called microbeman who knows a lot about microbes and organics, and he claims that a small amount of organic material (such as BioVega or BioFlora) is sufficient to eliminate any chlorine or chloramine in the water a few minutes after mixing it in. You are going to filter anyway, but it's interesting to know that this works. He looks at the microbes under a microscope after doing these things to see how they are impacted.

A few last things I'd like to add: I really like to use Hydroguard for root stimulation and protection. Organics can sometimes get root issues and this really helps prevent it. 2ml/gallon, and I use it every time from transplant stage throughout flowering.

The other thing that I'd consider adding is a PK boost during weeks 4-6 of bloom. I like Roots Organics' HPK for an easy-to-add liquid guano boost. I added 15ml/gallon HPK during the feed sessions during those weeks along with the normal 15ml of BioBloom and had excellent results.

Your ph is going to really plunge upon mixing. Microbes do handle ph well, but I'd suggest upping the ph to within the 5.5 to 6.3 zone to make things ideal. That's just me. I was seeing mid-4 ph and that's just too low IMO.

We could get into additional enhancers, but this should give you excellent results. I had great yields and flavor and you will, too.
 

Xanode

Member
First off frostqueen, I have to give you a big THANKYOU.

Thanks for taking the time to give me that great write up, how can i possibly go wrong?

I also have noticed the PH drop to 4.7 upon mixing base vega or flores, no wonder canna states there's no need to acidify the mix on the bottle, maybe it should be the other way round? I'm guessing the rhizo may bring it up a bit and nothing a little PHup can't fix.

Anyhow thanks again, and ill try and remember to post an update here as to how things progress.
 

frostqueen

Active member
First off frostqueen, I have to give you a big THANKYOU.

Thanks for taking the time to give me that great write up, how can i possibly go wrong?

I also have noticed the PH drop to 4.7 upon mixing base vega or flores, no wonder canna states there's no need to acidify the mix on the bottle, maybe it should be the other way round? I'm guessing the rhizo may bring it up a bit and nothing a little PHup can't fix.

Anyhow thanks again, and ill try and remember to post an update here as to how things progress.

Glad to help out. That's what community is all about, right? As far as going wrong goes... we all manage to do that occasionally, even the experienced guys. With organics there is a bit more sensitivity to root issues, so that is the one thing I'd watch out for. If you overwater or have a heavy soil mix things can go bad pretty fast, so watch out for that and lift up your pots to check weight (moisture remaining) rather than stick your finger in there. I look for 80% dry-out; enough to keep the bugs kicking but dry enough for good root health. If you do get root issues: Hydroguard and Hygrozyme can really help.

Yeah, that Rhizotonic does have some crazy-high ph, eh? You can probably get away with not adjusting ph; like I said, the microbes will handle things well. That being said, I try to keep it just a bit higher. In organics the sweet zone seems to be above 5.5 all the way up to around 6.5. This is affected by your growth medium; my blend of ProMix HP and FF Ocean Forest stays at about 6.2.

I'm prolly repeating myself, but check out Sea Green if you feel like adding a bonus product. I use it in the water-only (or tea) phase and the plants really seem to love it.

And feel free to pm me if you have other questions. i may not be back to this thread and that way I'll see your question. :tiphat:
 
C

Columbo1

Hi,

I'm new to the BioCanna line and was wondering if I can get some feeding advice specific to the strain I'm growing?

I'm growing Early Maroc by Philosopher Seeds. It's a quick, early flowering strain with a very low need for nutrient or fertiliser according to the breeder. You can read more about it here:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=8117464#post8117464

I'm outdoors at about 4.5 weeks from sow in 20L of Canna Terra Pro medium and have Biovega, Bioflores and Bioboost nutrients. It's growing nice and healthy and I've just being using 0.2 ec filtered water.

I see a lot of people in this thread recommend feeding maximum strength every water. Would this still apply for a low nutrient needs plants such as Early Maroc or a even landrace Sativa?

Also should I wait for my plant to show signs of a slight nutrient deficiency before feeding? Or would you just recommend fertilising from now on?

Here's a pic at 28 days:

picture.php


Thanks,

Col.
 

GrayZone

Member
Let's do some necromancy on this thread:D

BioCanna question, but I didn't want to start a new thread.

What's up with all those suggestions to use Cal/Mag if you use BioCanna?
That makes sense for people using filtered water, but if water isn't filtered and is hard, then there's no need for that, isn't it?

I have an electric kettle, every two weeks or so I have to throw in some vinegar to clean it. The water is pretty heavy here. Hence, there's no need for additional Cal/mag, right?
 

goingrey

Well-known member
Let's do some necromancy on this thread:D

BioCanna question, but I didn't want to start a new thread.

What's up with all those suggestions to use Cal/Mag if you use BioCanna?
That makes sense for people using filtered water, but if water isn't filtered and is hard, then there's no need for that, isn't it?

I have an electric kettle, every two weeks or so I have to throw in some vinegar to clean it. The water is pretty heavy here. Hence, there's no need for additional Cal/mag, right?
The electric kettle test doesn't really tell us what exactly in your water. But probably you won't need calmag.

Biocanna feeding chart (online calculator) doesn't mention any calmag. What it does mention is that you must adjust the pH for hard water.
 

Kalbhairav

~~ ॐ नमः शिवाय ~~
Veteran
Also, hard water doesn’t account for the extra magnesium you might need if growing under led. The Mag helps with the transition of nutrients to the parts of the plant that are closest to the lights.

For me (hard water area), the magnesium is more important than the calcium component in calmag. Epsom salts don’t seem to cut it, I have to dissolve a ton to get the result I need.

This is probably why many use a concentrated calmag.
 

GrayZone

Member
No LED here, just an old-school HPS. So that's that when it comes to lightning.

Ya, I should probably buy a PH pen and test the PH of my tap water. Might save me troubles down the road.
 

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