GrowBox420
Member
Your my hero 
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BigTokes ~ "How-To" Of The Bio-Buckets 101
- Thread starter BigToke
- Start date
Elweedster
New member
Wow
Elweedster
New member
I have some much to learn
Awesome thread and such a simple setup for such amazing results. Im not sure if your still around BT but I am creating a system based off yours but I always believe in go big or go home so I am using a 55 gallon res and 8-10 gallon buckets =) I saw your thread with the 5 gallon bucket filled to the rim with roots so I figured if you can do that with a 5, then a 10 gallon would be extreme =)
My only quesion is do you think 1 5000gph pump would do it for buckets this size or would I need to step it up to say a 6500+?
Also for the Beneficial Bactera, Couldn't I just make like 10 gallons of EWC tea and throw it in to reduce the colinazation downtime?
I was also thinking that I could make the Rez a nice Rigid Concrete pond =) Why not give the grow room a nice relaxing atmosphere ang the concrete I think could be a nice spot for the bene's to chill out if a waterfall is needed anyhow lol
My only quesion is do you think 1 5000gph pump would do it for buckets this size or would I need to step it up to say a 6500+?
Also for the Beneficial Bactera, Couldn't I just make like 10 gallons of EWC tea and throw it in to reduce the colinazation downtime?
I was also thinking that I could make the Rez a nice Rigid Concrete pond =) Why not give the grow room a nice relaxing atmosphere ang the concrete I think could be a nice spot for the bene's to chill out if a waterfall is needed anyhow lol
BioBucket-4life
New member
Hey all, I've been watching IC for a few years on and off. My first time here I believe IC was doing a magazine at the time. Anyways, I got some goodies to share. 
http://www.aussieglobe.com/
The Original UNISEAL
and
http://flexpvc.com/
Flexible PVC Pipe & PVC Pipe Fittings, Unions, Bulkhead fittings, furniture fittings, ball valves, check valves, gate valves, garden hose fittings, manifolds & distributors, wyes, PVC Pipe and lots more.
I recently found those two sites while looking up parts for the slick as shit bio-buckets. I hope they help someone in some way.
Hope your still out and about and all's well, BigToke!
Take care.
http://www.aussieglobe.com/
The Original UNISEAL
and
http://flexpvc.com/
Flexible PVC Pipe & PVC Pipe Fittings, Unions, Bulkhead fittings, furniture fittings, ball valves, check valves, gate valves, garden hose fittings, manifolds & distributors, wyes, PVC Pipe and lots more.
I recently found those two sites while looking up parts for the slick as shit bio-buckets. I hope they help someone in some way.
Hope your still out and about and all's well, BigToke!
Take care.
BioBucket-4life
New member
Did BT ever create his bio-bucket dvd?
Thanks and take care ICMag community.
Thanks and take care ICMag community.
M
Mitakoye Oyasin
ty peat moss
For those out there who are wondering about growstones..... I also concur with Bio-Master. They are excellent. Most shops now carry growstones.... and they are way easier, cleaner, nicer to work with then lava rock.
My bennies have no issues with growstones...... or else they would pack up and leave my ass! lol..
KING_JOHN_C
Member
nice project
OrganicGrowerMi
Member
Thanks for the info.. Im drawing up the best
way to set it up in a 6x6x8 room right now, then
Im making my to get list from the stores
way to set it up in a 6x6x8 room right now, then
Im making my to get list from the stores
whatamidoing21
New member
Do the lava rocks only go into the net pots? I was thinking about filling up my buckets half way with rocks so that I wouldnt need as much water, or I was thinking maybe I can just fill my res with rocks.
BigToke hasn't been around in a while now. i'll try to help you out, yes the lava rocks go in the net pots only.
but my question to you is, why do you want to run so little water? if you read carefully, you'll see the amount of water needed is not that much:
Reservoir Sizing, to buffer ph and nutrient uptake
An indoor home grower wanting a starting point for determining his reservoir size to go the entire grow start/finish, I have used this method with great success, here’s how I did it by approximately calculated 3 US Quart(s) or (2.839 liters) of reservoir water volume for each square foot of mature crop/bud canopy space. This is not to say, the entire veg canopy space of your grow, only crop/bud space!! This is how I calculate my overall canopy space, which in my case 33sq feet times two is 66sq feet, this is a rule-of-thumb what I am about to say next, I dived that total number of 66sq feet into two, which is 33sq feet of mature crop/bud space, and if I use three quarts per crop/bud space, that equals out to be 24.75 gallons. My reservoir size is 25 gallons, this gives each sq-foot of mature canopy crop/bud space, three quarts per sq-foot. This water volume to space ratio has been found to produce both low maintenance and solution life expectancies that can easily coincide with growth stage nutrient formula changes. Waste not, want not
as you can see, BigToke only had 25 gallons in the reservoir to support 36 buckets/plants.
i've noticed the best bio-bucket results have come from sticking to the original design.
i know its not easy, but, you'll be best off if you read every page of this sticky. then read every page of his other sticky: BigTokes water chemistry. after that, you will have the knowledge needed to understand how to build your own system.
good luck,
cm
but my question to you is, why do you want to run so little water? if you read carefully, you'll see the amount of water needed is not that much:
Reservoir Sizing, to buffer ph and nutrient uptake
An indoor home grower wanting a starting point for determining his reservoir size to go the entire grow start/finish, I have used this method with great success, here’s how I did it by approximately calculated 3 US Quart(s) or (2.839 liters) of reservoir water volume for each square foot of mature crop/bud canopy space. This is not to say, the entire veg canopy space of your grow, only crop/bud space!! This is how I calculate my overall canopy space, which in my case 33sq feet times two is 66sq feet, this is a rule-of-thumb what I am about to say next, I dived that total number of 66sq feet into two, which is 33sq feet of mature crop/bud space, and if I use three quarts per crop/bud space, that equals out to be 24.75 gallons. My reservoir size is 25 gallons, this gives each sq-foot of mature canopy crop/bud space, three quarts per sq-foot. This water volume to space ratio has been found to produce both low maintenance and solution life expectancies that can easily coincide with growth stage nutrient formula changes. Waste not, want not
as you can see, BigToke only had 25 gallons in the reservoir to support 36 buckets/plants.
i've noticed the best bio-bucket results have come from sticking to the original design.
i know its not easy, but, you'll be best off if you read every page of this sticky. then read every page of his other sticky: BigTokes water chemistry. after that, you will have the knowledge needed to understand how to build your own system.
good luck,
cm
I
Inspired333
I'm about to make a decision that is based on temperature; Water/Root Zone temperature.
The choice is Undercurrent RDWC, or Bio Bucket style, and the decision hinges on temperature. More specifically "maximum allowable water temperature".
Yes, I have read this thread (while ago). And I know that DWC temps in general are ideally 68*F (65*-70* max).
Is running a "bio" style system going to allow me to run my temps up to 75*? Is there a different temperature you guys would call a "safe" maximum for bio bucket style systems.
Any additional info as to why would be great as well.
(I have a diy chiller. I just don't want to use it for logistical reasons and also - it creates heat - which hurts me for, again, logistical reasons. If I can use a bio bucket system and that will allow me to have water temps up to 75* or more, that might be the deciding factor in my decision of hydro styles, or even if I can manage hydro this summer)
EDIT: Also just watched a video (pretty good) of a guy explaining methods to cool hydro water. In it he mentions the "bio" style method and says that (from what he's heard) it allows you to run higher temperatures; temperature all the way up to 85*F. Lol, if it even allows up to 75*-80*F I think I'll do it.
Then, conflicting info---> "To ensure that this environment is not overtaken by disease -causing bacteria or fungi, a few precautionary steps should be taken. First and foremost, the water temperature should never rise above 71°F. Higher temperatures will decrease oxygen and encourage anaerobic bacteria and mold, while lower temperatures—between 60° and 71°—will create an environment that is safe for roots and friendly breeds of micro-organisms."
Are the temperature claims true, or not?
Thanks a ton.
Peace, and big up BT.
Video Link: http://youtu.be/vOZed8aUAro
The choice is Undercurrent RDWC, or Bio Bucket style, and the decision hinges on temperature. More specifically "maximum allowable water temperature".
Yes, I have read this thread (while ago). And I know that DWC temps in general are ideally 68*F (65*-70* max).
Is running a "bio" style system going to allow me to run my temps up to 75*? Is there a different temperature you guys would call a "safe" maximum for bio bucket style systems.
Any additional info as to why would be great as well.
(I have a diy chiller. I just don't want to use it for logistical reasons and also - it creates heat - which hurts me for, again, logistical reasons. If I can use a bio bucket system and that will allow me to have water temps up to 75* or more, that might be the deciding factor in my decision of hydro styles, or even if I can manage hydro this summer)
EDIT: Also just watched a video (pretty good) of a guy explaining methods to cool hydro water. In it he mentions the "bio" style method and says that (from what he's heard) it allows you to run higher temperatures; temperature all the way up to 85*F. Lol, if it even allows up to 75*-80*F I think I'll do it.
Then, conflicting info---> "To ensure that this environment is not overtaken by disease -causing bacteria or fungi, a few precautionary steps should be taken. First and foremost, the water temperature should never rise above 71°F. Higher temperatures will decrease oxygen and encourage anaerobic bacteria and mold, while lower temperatures—between 60° and 71°—will create an environment that is safe for roots and friendly breeds of micro-organisms."
Are the temperature claims true, or not?
Thanks a ton.
Peace, and big up BT.
Video Link: http://youtu.be/vOZed8aUAro
R
Racc00n
well made, thanks for sharing! bravo
petemoss
Active member
I did my last bio-bucket grow several years ago during a very hot summer, not only here but all over the world, record temps. DWC growers who didn't use chillers were losing their grows left and right. The plants just died before they were finished. Some growers were able to finish or chopped early before the really hot weather came. Maybe this was where this myth started - that you can grow DWC style with water temps up to 85F. Personally, I don't think so.
Once water temps go over 71F, your plants will suffer and you'll get lower yields, more stretch and airy buds. Bio-buckets may be able to tolerate a couple more degrees than other DWC methods due to faster circulation but not higher than 75 IMO. If you want to try bio-buckets in warm weather, you really need a chiller for best results.
The best thing to do imho will be to merge those 2 system together UC and bio bucket .This is what i have done to do it!
Pic#1 UC system 4 15 Gal. site +15 Gal. rez.
Pic#2 Pumps in rez pushing water to water fall.
Pic#3 Water line coming from pump going up to form waterfall 4 feet in the 4 inch abs tube.
Pic#4 Rock under waterfall to allow beneficial to grow.
Pic#1 UC system 4 15 Gal. site +15 Gal. rez.
Pic#2 Pumps in rez pushing water to water fall.
Pic#3 Water line coming from pump going up to form waterfall 4 feet in the 4 inch abs tube.
Pic#4 Rock under waterfall to allow beneficial to grow.
