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BigTokes ~ "How-To" Of The Bio-Buckets 101
- Thread starter BigToke
- Start date
Local420
Member
good luck and grow safe.
I have my own issues to deal with....electrically in a seperate part of the house. GFCI outlet is bad......hopefully (there's power to the outlet, and the outlet that is piggy backed off that, but when you plug something in to either outlet, it cuts the power to both outlets, so im assuming the GFCI has been compromised somehow.)
I have my own issues to deal with....electrically in a seperate part of the house. GFCI outlet is bad......hopefully (there's power to the outlet, and the outlet that is piggy backed off that, but when you plug something in to either outlet, it cuts the power to both outlets, so im assuming the GFCI has been compromised somehow.)
ViktorVaughn
Member
Nutrient Use
Nutrient Use
So the system is running great. Reservoir temps fluctuate between 55F and 69F. My question is this; the plants seem to be using practically no nutrients, is this par for the course? The system consists of 6 buckets (pics are posted previously in this thread) with 4 snocap and 2 sage and sour. All of them are growing great with huge fan leaves and are now two weeks into flowering. For the 3 weeks of vegetative growth the EC dropped only .2 even though more than 10 gallons were "added back". When more nutrients were added the sno caps' leaves began to curl. Soooo, when it came time to switch to flowering nutes the reservoir volume was increased and the nutes were added to bring the EC to 1.4. Once again leaves curled. Now the EC is at 1.3 and the reservoir volume is back to normal with all the ladies looking great. In comparison to the Ebb and Flood that is running alongside it this system is surprisingly spare on the nutrients. I am having to resist the urge to add more nutrients does this sound normal?
Nutrient Use
So the system is running great. Reservoir temps fluctuate between 55F and 69F. My question is this; the plants seem to be using practically no nutrients, is this par for the course? The system consists of 6 buckets (pics are posted previously in this thread) with 4 snocap and 2 sage and sour. All of them are growing great with huge fan leaves and are now two weeks into flowering. For the 3 weeks of vegetative growth the EC dropped only .2 even though more than 10 gallons were "added back". When more nutrients were added the sno caps' leaves began to curl. Soooo, when it came time to switch to flowering nutes the reservoir volume was increased and the nutes were added to bring the EC to 1.4. Once again leaves curled. Now the EC is at 1.3 and the reservoir volume is back to normal with all the ladies looking great. In comparison to the Ebb and Flood that is running alongside it this system is surprisingly spare on the nutrients. I am having to resist the urge to add more nutrients does this sound normal?
Teh_Baker
Active member
Hey Toke,
I'm very soon to be starting my system and I'm gonna be running six buckets in the BIO way. The last thing that I need to get before I can start is a pH, EC, TDS, meter and I wanted to know if you could lemmi know what you think about the one I have chosen:
http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/Itemdesc.asp?ic=TEMCOHACL2&eq=&Tp=
I'm very soon to be starting my system and I'm gonna be running six buckets in the BIO way. The last thing that I need to get before I can start is a pH, EC, TDS, meter and I wanted to know if you could lemmi know what you think about the one I have chosen:
http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/Itemdesc.asp?ic=TEMCOHACL2&eq=&Tp=
great read... I'm planning to setup the exact same system.
How do you transfer your clones to the DWC system?
I mean I'm a little confuse about perptual grow. I want to use my current cool cab for my mother plants and take cuttings... but how long I can let them sit before I need to veg them then flower them? The timing just doesn't add up for me to get a perptual grow.
How do I physically take the clones and/or veg plants and put them in the DWC system.
How do you transfer your clones to the DWC system?
I mean I'm a little confuse about perptual grow. I want to use my current cool cab for my mother plants and take cuttings... but how long I can let them sit before I need to veg them then flower them? The timing just doesn't add up for me to get a perptual grow.
How do I physically take the clones and/or veg plants and put them in the DWC system.
drain hoses
drain hoses
Hey Bigtoke, I am getting a late start on your system, as it has been around for a while I see.
I was wondering if you could help, The drain line out of the top on the bucket , can we use 1.5" pvc with a 45degree to go straight into the 4" main drain or is it better to use the sump/drain hose. Do you need to have that water rippling in the drain hose as it comes out of the bucket.
BTW Daddyweez and I are doing 2-20 bucket systems. Veg/flwr rooms 5x14.
drain hoses
Hey Bigtoke, I am getting a late start on your system, as it has been around for a while I see.
I was wondering if you could help, The drain line out of the top on the bucket , can we use 1.5" pvc with a 45degree to go straight into the 4" main drain or is it better to use the sump/drain hose. Do you need to have that water rippling in the drain hose as it comes out of the bucket.
BTW Daddyweez and I are doing 2-20 bucket systems. Veg/flwr rooms 5x14.
laughable: im no expert, but if you search arround you will see people using different types of piping, from sump hose, rubber hose, large pool vacuum hose, and pvc as well. i used pvc.
IMO the ripple effect from the sump hose probably does agitate and aerate the water as it flows over the ripples. It could have a positive effect on creating a higher DO in the water. But i can not personally speak of it, but in theory it does seem to hold truth.
As for pvc i think it is cleaner and easier to work with. much easier to seal connections as well. if you do not know much of pvc piping, here are some VERY important plumbing tips that i find most people dont speak of, but learn as they go. So its just a heads up.
1)If in the states, homedepot or lowes stores, use the black label of pvc cement you can find in the plumbing area. It says "pvc cement". DO NOT use the "all purpose cement" w/red and white label. U can use the red label, but it is not as strong. You have a higher chance of leaksas well. I have been told this by plumber friends, lowes staff,and i also found this to be true because of my own mistakes in the beginning.
2) prime both ends of pipes well, (purple primer).
3) add glue to both sides of pipes you wish to connect, first the male side, then the female. As you connect them, slightly twist the connection atleast a 1/4 turn before setting the proper angle desired.
4) always add more glue then you think necessary at first,till you learn how much is necessary.
It is cheaper to buy 2 big bottles of glue, then not use enough glue and have leaks. some leaks you can reglue, some you have to completely cut out the connection and restart. And repairing an area is a bitch, very time consuming as well. plus more money on connections.
5) if you have leaks, make sure you drain the pipe first. then i vacuum the outside of the connection area to remove all water dropplets. then i use a hair dryer in the area that is going to be reglued on the outside. i then keep the hair dryer going, place it down, then layer on the pvc cement, then immediately blow warm air on the area i just reglued. repeat it 2 or 3 times. if it doesnt hold after 3 reglue attempts, just replace it. IT WILL COME BACK TO HAUNT YOU LATER. So replace the area.
** very important*** the glue is extremely flammable. so be carefully not to heat to to much, or get the fumes close to the hair dryer. i even keep a fire extinguisher within feet of area i am working on. But if you follow the above steps, you should never have to reglue anything.
As you can see here, there is lots of plumbing, lots of connection points.
IMO the ripple effect from the sump hose probably does agitate and aerate the water as it flows over the ripples. It could have a positive effect on creating a higher DO in the water. But i can not personally speak of it, but in theory it does seem to hold truth.
As for pvc i think it is cleaner and easier to work with. much easier to seal connections as well. if you do not know much of pvc piping, here are some VERY important plumbing tips that i find most people dont speak of, but learn as they go. So its just a heads up.
1)If in the states, homedepot or lowes stores, use the black label of pvc cement you can find in the plumbing area. It says "pvc cement". DO NOT use the "all purpose cement" w/red and white label. U can use the red label, but it is not as strong. You have a higher chance of leaksas well. I have been told this by plumber friends, lowes staff,and i also found this to be true because of my own mistakes in the beginning.
2) prime both ends of pipes well, (purple primer).
3) add glue to both sides of pipes you wish to connect, first the male side, then the female. As you connect them, slightly twist the connection atleast a 1/4 turn before setting the proper angle desired.
4) always add more glue then you think necessary at first,till you learn how much is necessary.
It is cheaper to buy 2 big bottles of glue, then not use enough glue and have leaks. some leaks you can reglue, some you have to completely cut out the connection and restart. And repairing an area is a bitch, very time consuming as well. plus more money on connections.
5) if you have leaks, make sure you drain the pipe first. then i vacuum the outside of the connection area to remove all water dropplets. then i use a hair dryer in the area that is going to be reglued on the outside. i then keep the hair dryer going, place it down, then layer on the pvc cement, then immediately blow warm air on the area i just reglued. repeat it 2 or 3 times. if it doesnt hold after 3 reglue attempts, just replace it. IT WILL COME BACK TO HAUNT YOU LATER. So replace the area.
** very important*** the glue is extremely flammable. so be carefully not to heat to to much, or get the fumes close to the hair dryer. i even keep a fire extinguisher within feet of area i am working on. But if you follow the above steps, you should never have to reglue anything.
As you can see here, there is lots of plumbing, lots of connection points.
Teh_Baker
Active member
Hey Big Toke,
Gonna be starting a 6 bucket setup soon, and wanted to know what concentration of H2O2 do you use to cleanse your setup before the 2wk BB growing process? With <6> 5gal buckets I would be running aprox 26-30gal of water keeping in mind space for lava rocks and net pot but adding for pipping. How much Hydrogen Peroxide should I use for my setup? Thanks in advance.
Gonna be starting a 6 bucket setup soon, and wanted to know what concentration of H2O2 do you use to cleanse your setup before the 2wk BB growing process? With <6> 5gal buckets I would be running aprox 26-30gal of water keeping in mind space for lava rocks and net pot but adding for pipping. How much Hydrogen Peroxide should I use for my setup? Thanks in advance.
Old MacDonald
New member
Yo BT,
You and the late Daltron have had a major influence on my whole understanding of hydro - being an owner of tropical fish, I get it and it's such a simple concept how could it not make sense and work like a damn?!
I'm workin on plans for a BB system of my own, thought that after all the reading and research that I had it all figgered, planned and just about ready to go. But I have run into a bit of a hydrodynamic issue.
- Sub pump is 1267 gph (good for up to 25 buckets per my calcs), was going to use this for another project but those plans got dumped for the buckets!
- going to do sections, 3 rows of 4 buckets (walkin room!)
- 1.25" sump line drain from bucket to 2" pvc to drain max 8 buckets for the 4' run to the end of the section to 4" pipe back to res.
- main feed line to each section 2" pvc, t'd down to 1" line for run up to feed 4 buckets via 3/4 feed line to bucket.
Here is the issue. Pump outlet is only 1". I can connect that with adapters to 2" pipe for long (15' max) run to bucket sections, then down again to 1" for each section, 3/4" for each bucket. Why not keep it simpler by just running 1" feed the whole way to each bucket? Would standard 1" pvc be strong enough to support the pressure required to push enough water for 36 buckets for the 7-10 changes/hr? If I used 2" for main feed lines, would pump then be able to push more water even with only a 1" outlet (larger volume, lower pressure) and be better for the long 15' run from the res?
What are your thoughts?
Here's a pic of what I am planning for each section...
You and the late Daltron have had a major influence on my whole understanding of hydro - being an owner of tropical fish, I get it and it's such a simple concept how could it not make sense and work like a damn?!
I'm workin on plans for a BB system of my own, thought that after all the reading and research that I had it all figgered, planned and just about ready to go. But I have run into a bit of a hydrodynamic issue.
- Sub pump is 1267 gph (good for up to 25 buckets per my calcs), was going to use this for another project but those plans got dumped for the buckets!
- going to do sections, 3 rows of 4 buckets (walkin room!)
- 1.25" sump line drain from bucket to 2" pvc to drain max 8 buckets for the 4' run to the end of the section to 4" pipe back to res.
- main feed line to each section 2" pvc, t'd down to 1" line for run up to feed 4 buckets via 3/4 feed line to bucket.
Here is the issue. Pump outlet is only 1". I can connect that with adapters to 2" pipe for long (15' max) run to bucket sections, then down again to 1" for each section, 3/4" for each bucket. Why not keep it simpler by just running 1" feed the whole way to each bucket? Would standard 1" pvc be strong enough to support the pressure required to push enough water for 36 buckets for the 7-10 changes/hr? If I used 2" for main feed lines, would pump then be able to push more water even with only a 1" outlet (larger volume, lower pressure) and be better for the long 15' run from the res?
What are your thoughts?
Here's a pic of what I am planning for each section...
Old macdonald: you should not upsize your feed line to 2" if it starts at 1". keep it at 1" and only downsize to bucket. If you start 1" and go to 2" it will decrease your feed pressure greatly! If its' 1 " keep it 1 inch. i think the standard for scd 40 pvc is like 180psi, which is very high. Some PVC piping has it written on the side.
Also, if it was me, i would also connect the back side of lane 1 , 2 & 3. this will help equalize lane 1 2 and 3. lane 3 will be your farthest from pump therefore the weakest, this way with a back side equalizing connection it will increase your flow to farthest buckets. lane 1 will be the highest, probally to high for the drain to keep up so you will have to decrease output to buckets.
As for the 2 in to 4 in returns. i would just run all 4" in each lane, and 4" back to the rez. The 4" leading to the rez should have a good downgrade to promote good flow.
Hope this helps...
B-safe
Also, if it was me, i would also connect the back side of lane 1 , 2 & 3. this will help equalize lane 1 2 and 3. lane 3 will be your farthest from pump therefore the weakest, this way with a back side equalizing connection it will increase your flow to farthest buckets. lane 1 will be the highest, probally to high for the drain to keep up so you will have to decrease output to buckets.
As for the 2 in to 4 in returns. i would just run all 4" in each lane, and 4" back to the rez. The 4" leading to the rez should have a good downgrade to promote good flow.
Hope this helps...
B-safe
Old MacDonald
New member
gman, thanks for the input, makes sense. Might just have to rethink the layout as I also want something that can be easily sized up, and also to have sections.... wheres that damn drawing board?
G
Guest
I have a setup almost exacty the same as your planning old macdonald. 21 buckets in 3 rows of 7 under 2 1k. I used 3" piping for the return lies, and it fills up a lot. Almost 3/4 full. But i have 4400gph going through them. Had to silicone everywhere te keep water from spewing out. 3" worked for 2200gph, but not 4400. Use 4" and keep the drain hoses close to the top as possible. It will save lots of headache.
Good luck
Good luck
Teh_Baker
Active member
Hey BT,
I was wondering, do you add nutes to the mix before or after the two week period in which you build the BB? If anybody else knows please feel free to help me out.
Edit:
feel free to stop by my thread and show me some love. Got up some new pics. started from seed in the biobucket. come check it out
you can hit the thread in my siggy
I was wondering, do you add nutes to the mix before or after the two week period in which you build the BB? If anybody else knows please feel free to help me out.
Edit:
feel free to stop by my thread and show me some love. Got up some new pics. started from seed in the biobucket. come check it out
you can hit the thread in my siggy
Last edited:
grob: Usually in situations with tap real high like yourself, people usually run RO or disttilled water in the system. Some also run half tap, half ro. 600ppm i think is two high, if i remember somewhere in readings that 300ppm is pushing it.
You should minus you waters ppm from the actually ppm reading w/nutes. one reason is your water could & usually does change ppm throughout the year.
B-safe
You should minus you waters ppm from the actually ppm reading w/nutes. one reason is your water could & usually does change ppm throughout the year.
B-safe
Getawaymonkey!
Member
If my water was 600 ppm,..Id be having it tested number 1...
If youre going to use it , you need to know what the 600 ppm consists of before you start deducting anything to compensate for it.And at 600 ppms already, Id say your water changes alot!
2- I wouldnt use it for hydro or drink it,...much less bath in it!
wallyworld distilled water is like 2 bucks per 2.5 gallons. Cheap, Simple !
Once you get a clean water source then you wont need to deduct anything to compensate for.
And what may be a good starting ppm for one guy, doesnt mean its not going to kill yours quickly.
Its all about advanced nutrient management(wheres that OG thread on nute management when you need it,huh?).
You need to keep a log daily. Log ppms temps,take notes ,ect. This will aid you in guessing fairly accurately, what your plants are going to need from day to day and what to expect. And keeping a detailed log will make it alot easier to diagnose problems if they arise and ultimately will make it simpler to correct problems.
Just start out adding about 50 ppm a day until you see the nutes stop lowering .Thats the spot your plants want to be at.
Example...yesterday after top off the rez was at 300 ppms.The next days reading indicates that the ppm is 25 lower than yesterday even though water usage is normal(275ppm), and the previous day the same 25 ppm was gone(the plants have been eating 25 ppm each night, for a week or so according to my logs in this example)..This tells me that I need to add 50 ppm to the now 275ppm,bringing it up to 325ppms, in order to not cause a deficiency overnight(and yes ,this can happen that quickly in hydro when running heavy feeders) and this ensures they get what they need to continue normal growth pattern.
If the water level drops and ppms are the same (or higher)...then youve added too much nutes and they are only drinking water.In this case you drain some out of your rez and refill with plain water, lowering the nute concentration.Log the reading after the additional water and the next days reading should tell you what you need to do in order to find the sweet spot again.
Its pretty simple..If anyone needs help with advanced nute management,... PM me with your details and Ill do what I can brothas and sistas!
Hope this makes sense and helps.
Where are ya BigToke? Hows things going bro??Havent seen you start a thread about a 100 biobucket grow yet...Starting to worry about ya
If youre going to use it , you need to know what the 600 ppm consists of before you start deducting anything to compensate for it.And at 600 ppms already, Id say your water changes alot!
2- I wouldnt use it for hydro or drink it,...much less bath in it!
wallyworld distilled water is like 2 bucks per 2.5 gallons. Cheap, Simple !
Once you get a clean water source then you wont need to deduct anything to compensate for.
And what may be a good starting ppm for one guy, doesnt mean its not going to kill yours quickly.
Its all about advanced nutrient management(wheres that OG thread on nute management when you need it,huh?).
You need to keep a log daily. Log ppms temps,take notes ,ect. This will aid you in guessing fairly accurately, what your plants are going to need from day to day and what to expect. And keeping a detailed log will make it alot easier to diagnose problems if they arise and ultimately will make it simpler to correct problems.
Just start out adding about 50 ppm a day until you see the nutes stop lowering .Thats the spot your plants want to be at.
Example...yesterday after top off the rez was at 300 ppms.The next days reading indicates that the ppm is 25 lower than yesterday even though water usage is normal(275ppm), and the previous day the same 25 ppm was gone(the plants have been eating 25 ppm each night, for a week or so according to my logs in this example)..This tells me that I need to add 50 ppm to the now 275ppm,bringing it up to 325ppms, in order to not cause a deficiency overnight(and yes ,this can happen that quickly in hydro when running heavy feeders) and this ensures they get what they need to continue normal growth pattern.
If the water level drops and ppms are the same (or higher)...then youve added too much nutes and they are only drinking water.In this case you drain some out of your rez and refill with plain water, lowering the nute concentration.Log the reading after the additional water and the next days reading should tell you what you need to do in order to find the sweet spot again.
Its pretty simple..If anyone needs help with advanced nute management,... PM me with your details and Ill do what I can brothas and sistas!
Hope this makes sense and helps.
Where are ya BigToke? Hows things going bro??Havent seen you start a thread about a 100 biobucket grow yet...Starting to worry about ya
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Getawaymonkey!
Member
Man, Im getting so tired of people knocking biobuckets,..people who have never run a biosystem in there life, at that! Dont knock it until you try it .
It works people, and WORKS DAMN WELL
Sorry just had to add that !!
It works people, and WORKS DAMN WELL
Sorry just had to add that !!
