G
Guest
post #10. wayyyyy in the beginning!
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BigTokes ~ "How-To" Of The Bio-Buckets 101
- Thread starter BigToke
- Start date
G
Guest
basically, in easy math, take the # of buckets and multiply by 3.
then divide by 4.
16 x 3=48
48/4 = 12
12 gallon res for 16 5 gallon buckets.
then divide by 4.
16 x 3=48
48/4 = 12
12 gallon res for 16 5 gallon buckets.
Rattrap
Member
Just been doing some re-reading around that post #10 about water add back for nute management.....
I don't know if i'm doing my girls an injustice but i don't bother to keep a record of the amount of water added back. I mix my nute strength to the recomended rate of around 800-1000ppm in veg (i usually aim for closer to 1000) then top up the res with more nutes when the ppm gets down to around 700 -750ppm.
In flower i increase it to around 1400ppm & top up when it gets below 1000ppm.
I have a secondary res, 6gal that is water only & it needs to be refilled roughly every 2 days. It keeps the main res toped up to the same level at all times.
Is this method ok? I only do a full nute change out when i switch to flower. I'm currently using dutch master nutes.
I don't know if i'm doing my girls an injustice but i don't bother to keep a record of the amount of water added back. I mix my nute strength to the recomended rate of around 800-1000ppm in veg (i usually aim for closer to 1000) then top up the res with more nutes when the ppm gets down to around 700 -750ppm.
In flower i increase it to around 1400ppm & top up when it gets below 1000ppm.
I have a secondary res, 6gal that is water only & it needs to be refilled roughly every 2 days. It keeps the main res toped up to the same level at all times.
Is this method ok? I only do a full nute change out when i switch to flower. I'm currently using dutch master nutes.
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G
Guest
i would think it would be difficult to see what fresh water adds to the res if you have a float valve anyway.
since it just keeps topping itself off.
my 2 cents
since it just keeps topping itself off.
my 2 cents
daddyweez2000
Member
Excited
Excited
First of all I want to give my respects to BT for making my dream come true.
I have found exactly what im looking for,now i just have to figure it all out.
Read so mant threads dont know where to start. I am a medical grower planning on 20 plants.I,m in a garage that was insulated and walled.I shall start with the walls to seperate my space veg/bloom,throw up the poly,exhaust,C02,heat/ac,carbon filter,now i guess i will try and start on the buckets and go from there I am a noob so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Excited
First of all I want to give my respects to BT for making my dream come true.
I have found exactly what im looking for,now i just have to figure it all out.
Read so mant threads dont know where to start. I am a medical grower planning on 20 plants.I,m in a garage that was insulated and walled.I shall start with the walls to seperate my space veg/bloom,throw up the poly,exhaust,C02,heat/ac,carbon filter,now i guess i will try and start on the buckets and go from there I am a noob so any help would be greatly appreciated.
GreenLantern
Member
HOLLOWTUBE DESIGN
HOLLOWTUBE DESIGN
Wat up BigToke et al,
Have read, re-read and read some more. Got the whole design and construction in my head like some sort of 3D image, keep going over it, changing little things, its probably the most inspired I have been for a while.
I am planning on doing a 14 bucket system set-up. I plan on using vertical lighting for the system as it seems the most efficient while saving me money on reflectors/cooltubes.
I have come up with an IDEA, it is just an idea at the moment and would like to know what you all think and if it would be practical at all to use. Its concerns the vertical lighting. Basically
When using vertical lighting the problem I have seen are pretty much all heat related. Bleaching/burning of the plant. Others have placed fans on the floor blowing up towards the bulb and then another extractor fan sucking out the warm air from the top of the grow.
My idea is to create a kinda modified cooltube (i call it the HOLLOWTUBE) which will coonect to the bulb socket and go around it. I done a brief diagram on paint which is a rough idea of the concept.
What do all you think of the idea?? I believe it will be efficient, cheap to build but while maintaining the idea of giving the plant as much light as possible.
THOUGHTS AND REACTIONS would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks GreenLAntern
HOLLOWTUBE DESIGN
Wat up BigToke et al,
Have read, re-read and read some more. Got the whole design and construction in my head like some sort of 3D image, keep going over it, changing little things, its probably the most inspired I have been for a while.
I am planning on doing a 14 bucket system set-up. I plan on using vertical lighting for the system as it seems the most efficient while saving me money on reflectors/cooltubes.
I have come up with an IDEA, it is just an idea at the moment and would like to know what you all think and if it would be practical at all to use. Its concerns the vertical lighting. Basically
When using vertical lighting the problem I have seen are pretty much all heat related. Bleaching/burning of the plant. Others have placed fans on the floor blowing up towards the bulb and then another extractor fan sucking out the warm air from the top of the grow.
My idea is to create a kinda modified cooltube (i call it the HOLLOWTUBE) which will coonect to the bulb socket and go around it. I done a brief diagram on paint which is a rough idea of the concept.
What do all you think of the idea?? I believe it will be efficient, cheap to build but while maintaining the idea of giving the plant as much light as possible.
THOUGHTS AND REACTIONS would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks GreenLAntern
Rattrap
Member
Well i had a major overflow last night. Lost over 60L of water from my system when 1 of my buckets had its outlet blocked by roots. I've got the cover in all my net pots blocking off about 1/3 of the side of the net pot yet the roots still grow round to the outlet.
Has anyone come up with a system that stops the outlets from getting blocked?
I'm planning on going up from a 6 bucket grow to a 12 bucket grow in a 3 x 4 layout but if i need to be able to check the buckets every week thats gonna make things pretty damned hard.
Has anyone come up with a system that stops the outlets from getting blocked?
I'm planning on going up from a 6 bucket grow to a 12 bucket grow in a 3 x 4 layout but if i need to be able to check the buckets every week thats gonna make things pretty damned hard.
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Supp G.L ~ well I for one love the idea of vertical lighting although I think if it were me I would use horizontal lighting until after Veg stage is over!! Vertical lighting imo is not the best for the beginning stages of the plant but however it works great for flowering……….as for the cool tub idea, well I never really have that much of a problem with burn issues with vertical lighting..
……….Rattrap, in my grow thread the “AK-47” on page 4 you will find what your looking for……..it worked great for me and I’ve used it ever time now….
……….Rattrap, in my grow thread the “AK-47” on page 4 you will find what your looking for……..it worked great for me and I’ve used it ever time now….
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daddyweez2000
Member
A question Big T what running at higher temp because of c02?
GreenLantern
Member
Well i guess my idea is out the window, but still it was a burst of brilliance!! LOL
I got a quick question BT
Lets say I built a 6 bucket system, would i be able to add more buckets if needed to the set up once its built. Say turn from being a 6 bucket to 12 bucket. Obviously pump specifications are going to change. Plumbing being the main concern.
Cannot get enough of this thread and the whole system, you are my hero!!
I just wana thank you for the time you contributed to helping and spreading the bio-bucket word.
When i begin the build is there any way i get a little help and advise from you, I dont wana step by step just a little help when it comes to answering questions etc.
Be safe.
GL
I got a quick question BT
Lets say I built a 6 bucket system, would i be able to add more buckets if needed to the set up once its built. Say turn from being a 6 bucket to 12 bucket. Obviously pump specifications are going to change. Plumbing being the main concern.
Cannot get enough of this thread and the whole system, you are my hero!!
I just wana thank you for the time you contributed to helping and spreading the bio-bucket word.
When i begin the build is there any way i get a little help and advise from you, I dont wana step by step just a little help when it comes to answering questions etc.
Be safe.
GL
daddyweez2000 ~ I’m not sure I understand of what your trying to say here……..maybe you can reword that and try it again..lol
G.L. ~ Hummm, let me see here……..yes and yes……..it’s all just plumbing my man that’s all, if one wants to add more buckets latter on just add more plumbing and you’ll be just fine…………and as for the other: well as long as you adhere to basic design and construction of the Bio-Buckets I’ll do my best to hang around and see what happens, ok…
G.L. ~ Hummm, let me see here……..yes and yes……..it’s all just plumbing my man that’s all, if one wants to add more buckets latter on just add more plumbing and you’ll be just fine…………and as for the other: well as long as you adhere to basic design and construction of the Bio-Buckets I’ll do my best to hang around and see what happens, ok…
IdntknowMarlbro
Member
you could also built the same system so you have 12 buckets and 2 different rezs. If allows you to do two different strains. you would be able to have two different solutions without having to change the system.
just an idea, cuz that is how im improving my system, once it is performing great. should get it up next week. maybe around summer im going to built the same exact bucket system, to double up.
just an idea, cuz that is how im improving my system, once it is performing great. should get it up next week. maybe around summer im going to built the same exact bucket system, to double up.
LORD BENIS
Member
One problem I seem to be having is that when I first add the nutes the water changes color but the next day I go out and most of the water is clear again. Small deposites accumulate in the PVC and I've got a feeling a lot is sticking to the feed lines as well. I've been running a toilet brush through the return pipe every few days and this seems to help remix the solution. Does anyone know if this is common with bio-buckets? I'm thinking about making a tea bag to just rest in the res. Any suggestions are more than welcome.
daddyweez2000
Member
Sorry bt was up along way past my bedtime trying to take in all that info.My question had to do with co2.You said you dont go above 75-82 degrees.I know that you said you dont use co2, Iv'e heard that you can go as high as 90 degrees. What do you think?
what size rez?
what size rez?
BT, or any opinions on a rez size for a 20 site bio-bucket. Thinking say 30gallon, float valve set to fill rez just below half. approx 12-15 gallons or so?
Construction is almost near, room prep already under way. 20ft long x 4ft wide. 7 to 8ft ceilings. 5 or 6 600's Diy cool tube.Horizontal mh grow hooded lighting , vertical hps bloom lighting w/ no hood. Co2 supplied by furnace. (dont worry, i know abit about HVAC, and know other close educated havc people as well, also extensive air metering equipment is available as well) 3200gph pump
Trial strain is going to be Early Girl x Haze, or it was Early Girl x NL.Unknown strain versions. cuttings taken for multiple. No selected mothers available yet. I made them make love last year, outside under a nice sky, to produce this trial seed strain ( i did not choice breed, just let them do there thing, since they where my 3rd outdoor site, meant to produce seeds for future).Did great outdoor, but they did not have the early finishing properties as the EG is known for. So im gonna see what they can do. They are my best option so far, atleast i know there females!
Just babling, i dont mean to hyjack someones thread. So ya, rez size opinions? Man i need to reread these bio threads again.
Thanks all, i cant wait to post some pics, In my own thread of course
B-safe
what size rez?
BT, or any opinions on a rez size for a 20 site bio-bucket. Thinking say 30gallon, float valve set to fill rez just below half. approx 12-15 gallons or so?
Construction is almost near, room prep already under way. 20ft long x 4ft wide. 7 to 8ft ceilings. 5 or 6 600's Diy cool tube.Horizontal mh grow hooded lighting , vertical hps bloom lighting w/ no hood. Co2 supplied by furnace. (dont worry, i know abit about HVAC, and know other close educated havc people as well, also extensive air metering equipment is available as well) 3200gph pump
Trial strain is going to be Early Girl x Haze, or it was Early Girl x NL.Unknown strain versions. cuttings taken for multiple. No selected mothers available yet. I made them make love last year, outside under a nice sky, to produce this trial seed strain ( i did not choice breed, just let them do there thing, since they where my 3rd outdoor site, meant to produce seeds for future).Did great outdoor, but they did not have the early finishing properties as the EG is known for. So im gonna see what they can do. They are my best option so far, atleast i know there females!
Just babling, i dont mean to hyjack someones thread. So ya, rez size opinions? Man i need to reread these bio threads again.
Thanks all, i cant wait to post some pics, In my own thread of course
B-safe
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Local420
Member
I think a 30 gallon rez would be good, as you only need 15 gallons if you use the 3qt/bud canopy calculation, the rest of the space could be used for the waterfall.
I'm currently constructing a 12-site and planning on using a 18 - 20 gal rez as I would only need 9gal. and use the rest for the waterfall. I'll use an airstone or too for extra aeration if I dont have the height that I need.
Speaking about construction...would anyone recommend running a mild bleach solution through the system for an hour or two, just to kill any bacteria that might have accumulated inside the plumbing while sitting on store shelves?
If I did do that, I would then flush with plain water for 24hrs. then flush with H2O2 for another 24hrs. then start the 2 week establishment.
Is that correct in doing or am I way off?
I'm currently constructing a 12-site and planning on using a 18 - 20 gal rez as I would only need 9gal. and use the rest for the waterfall. I'll use an airstone or too for extra aeration if I dont have the height that I need.
Speaking about construction...would anyone recommend running a mild bleach solution through the system for an hour or two, just to kill any bacteria that might have accumulated inside the plumbing while sitting on store shelves?
If I did do that, I would then flush with plain water for 24hrs. then flush with H2O2 for another 24hrs. then start the 2 week establishment.
Is that correct in doing or am I way off?
Local420, most people, atleast the bio-bucket threads i have read, Use h202, run 24hr, flush another 24. fill and run the week.
I also read elsewhere of people using what they called a Bio-bag. It was a bunch of lava rock in a net bag they placed in the rez during there previous harvest run. they then took out the net bag when they cleaned the system, flushed the 24, then placed the bag back in when the final water was in for the next run.
During the time the system was cleaning, the bag sat in tub of 68f heated water from that previous run aswell. This way instead of a week of running before plant insertion, it was days. When he was asked how he knew when his system was ready,He said " i place my fingers in the water, when i rub my finger together in a circle motion , you can feel the water is slick and smooth,less friction. But you never want slimmy, when its smooth,its ready" Dont remember who it was, but IMO, i think the friction test is a good way to feel out your water conditions. Plus a great jump start on you waters eco-system.
ya, id stay away from the bleach, that may be over kill to do both. H2o2 seems to work just fine.
B-safe
I also read elsewhere of people using what they called a Bio-bag. It was a bunch of lava rock in a net bag they placed in the rez during there previous harvest run. they then took out the net bag when they cleaned the system, flushed the 24, then placed the bag back in when the final water was in for the next run.
During the time the system was cleaning, the bag sat in tub of 68f heated water from that previous run aswell. This way instead of a week of running before plant insertion, it was days. When he was asked how he knew when his system was ready,He said " i place my fingers in the water, when i rub my finger together in a circle motion , you can feel the water is slick and smooth,less friction. But you never want slimmy, when its smooth,its ready"
Dont remember who it was, but IMO, i think the friction test is a good way to feel out your water conditions. Plus a great jump start on you waters eco-system.ya, id stay away from the bleach, that may be over kill to do both. H2o2 seems to work just fine.
B-safe
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