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~BHO LOVERS~
- Thread starter sanke
- Start date
any club will pretty much double the price they pay for it when it goes to the customers. generally around here clubs are willing to pay 30-40 a g for real nice "ear wax" or "budder" then they sell them for between 50 and 80.
some clubs may do a trade with you if they have any herb you're into, little way to get a bit more bang for your buck out of your oil. i've turned 4g of oil made from outdoor nugget into a 1/2 oz of OG kush nug before in a trade at a shop
some clubs may do a trade with you if they have any herb you're into, little way to get a bit more bang for your buck out of your oil. i've turned 4g of oil made from outdoor nugget into a 1/2 oz of OG kush nug before in a trade at a shop
DabberDabbaDooo
Member
Totally possible; we use heat purging, not vacuum. All we do it give it an extra hot water bath to scrape the oil, then put it in a ceramic dish and set it on a coffee mug warmer. We let it melt down and bubble a little bit, then stir and cool. We used to heat it for long periods of time but noticed it would get too hot and change the color and taste. So now we just do short bursts; about 10 minutes of heating, then 15 minutes of cooling and stirring, then another heating. After the second heating you can taste that most of the butane is gone, and if you heat it again you will end up with a VERY smooth end product!
If you don't have a coffee warmer, you can always set a 60-100W bulb over the dish, just watch it cause it heats a lot quicker! Hope this helps!
After heat Purge there should be no taste of butane. Your BHO should not be runny at all. should be like a thick honey that wont come off any thing you stick in it.
I have a glass rod thats made for oil. I dip this into my oil and roll a ball on the end. When you remove the rod there will be a sticky string at the end very thick not runny.
If I hold my Viles upside down it would take hr's for it to move down into the lid.
I have a glass rod thats made for oil. I dip this into my oil and roll a ball on the end. When you remove the rod there will be a sticky string at the end very thick not runny.
If I hold my Viles upside down it would take hr's for it to move down into the lid.
IMO the key to purging correctly not using a vacuum is to leave the oil untouched in the Pyrex dish until it is done purging. After spraying, place Pyrex in a warm water bath between 120F-135F, and leave it in until water gets back down to about 105F then replace with warm water continuously throughout the process (the bigger the the size of the "bath", the longer it will retain its heat). As bubbles rise blow them out while the oil is warm. I would leave it in there for at least 4-5 hours assuming you have between 3-6 grams of oil in a Pyrex pie dish. Another key is to use the surface area you have. Scraping it into a small puddle and overheating for short bursts is unnecessary and leads to an inferior product IMO. There really isn't even a need aside from popping bubbles to agitate the oil during the purging process. If you keep the oil warm throughout the process by paying attention to the temperature of the bath, the oil should remain viscous enough and provide enough heat to speed up the purging process while not destroying valuable terpenes and changing color of the oil which usually happens when prematurely scraping the oil and overheating it. By the end of the purge process you should see very little if any microscopic bubbles in the oil. Another way I judge to see if my oil is done is I let it cool down to room temperature and a firmly press my index finger into the oil (kind of like taking a finger-print), and I should only see a slight imprint and absolutely no residue should stick to your finger. If it does, keep purging.
With that said, it's only my opinion, but I get a purrrfect product every time. Vacuum purging is the way to go. What turned into 5-6 hours minimum for a purge, is now done in 45 minutes and nothing but perfection is achieved every time.
This is what I would get every time when I used to purge using warm water baths:
The consistency of all of these are basically the same. I would describe them as brittle taffy. It is brittle until the heat of your hands turns it into a workable hard taffy.
With that said, it's only my opinion, but I get a purrrfect product every time. Vacuum purging is the way to go. What turned into 5-6 hours minimum for a purge, is now done in 45 minutes and nothing but perfection is achieved every time.
This is what I would get every time when I used to purge using warm water baths:
The consistency of all of these are basically the same. I would describe them as brittle taffy. It is brittle until the heat of your hands turns it into a workable hard taffy.
Tokingham
Member
I understand what you are saying. I have done that and achieved the results you have in your pictures. I only just started using a oil dome recently and I am now noticing these thing I have mentioned.
I am giving the heat another try but I am thinking that the left over stuff is not exactly visible. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the advice.
I am giving the heat another try but I am thinking that the left over stuff is not exactly visible. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the advice.
My Vac process is basically this:
1) Run butane
2) Place dish into 125F-135F bath to purge all liquid butane (I leave it in there for about 10-20 minutes popping as many bubbles as I can as they come up)
THIS NEXT STEP IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS IF YOU DON'T HAVE COMMON SENSE. THIS HAS THE POTENTIAL TO KILL YOU IF YOU DON'T PURGE THE OIL ENOUGH PRIOR TO THIS STEP.
3) Place dish into oven set at 145F for about 15-20 minutes to purge as well as get the oil and the dish to the same temperature. There is a very precise viscosity I look for in the oil prior to vacuum purging.
4) Place entire dish into vacuum chamber and vacuum for about 1-2 minutes (-29hg). Once bubbles stop popping, I stop the vacuum.
5) Place back into oven to get warm for another 10-20 minutes which completes the purge and gets oil viscous enough to scrape off the dish. There should be absolutely no bubbles in the oil, even microscopic, if done correctly.
Keep in mind I average about 3-4 grams per dish. Unfortunately I don't have a heated vacuum chamber, so I must heat prior to vacuuming and it's a race against time before the oil get too hard to release the butane. Once you get to bout 5-6 grams you will need to reheat the dish and probably vacuum a second time to get the remaining butane out. It varies like anything else, but you get the idea. My chamber is large enough to fit 4 dishes vertically, but I haven't been able to fashion or find a rack that would fit inside my chamber.
It might be the Power butane is what is giving the shitty taste to the oil. Try sourcing Lucienne 4x, I stopped using Vector 5x which many people swear by in favor of Lucienne. My oil made from Lucienne is MUCH tastier than the same strains oil made with Vector. I can always taste Vector in the finished product, no matter how well purged, vacuum or otherwise.
Small bubbles aren't always from butane, especially when it's been well purged, it can be terpenes trying to escape I believe.
Small bubbles aren't always from butane, especially when it's been well purged, it can be terpenes trying to escape I believe.
Those are just air bubbles. After I collect all the oil off the razor blades I press it into the chips and sometimes a few air bubbles get in there. Good observation though. The cloudy bubbles are what you want to look out for.
I like the Power over the Vector 5x. We tested about 4 different 5x on a mirror and vector was the dirtiest and power was the most clean...
Residue left on the mirror.. maybe it was just water drops dried but with a razor we got the most stuff from vector..
take a razor and clean the mirror.
Spray butane on mirror let evap and then look to see whats left behind.. then take the razor and scrape it up.
some will give you a line of stuff..
Residue left on the mirror.. maybe it was just water drops dried but with a razor we got the most stuff from vector..
take a razor and clean the mirror.
Spray butane on mirror let evap and then look to see whats left behind.. then take the razor and scrape it up.
some will give you a line of stuff..
I think everyone sees them.
If after so many effort they stayed in the concentrate,
it remains one of the two decisions - or to consider them useful,
or go to the technology of the two solvents,
which gives the best results in a shorter time and with less heating.
Hey vapeman24, don't give up!
I did my last couple runs with power 5x and my ecsd oil smells and tastes great.
I've never had a problem with Vector, after purging.
But if Lucienne is touted, I must test.
Anyone try Xigar?
http://www.xikar.com/about.asp
A local shop has those too, but last time I picked up some I was still on the learning curve (really steep part).
But if Lucienne is touted, I must test.
Anyone try Xigar?
http://www.xikar.com/about.asp
A local shop has those too, but last time I picked up some I was still on the learning curve (really steep part).
dope_roor
Member
good butane for cigar lighters, not for bho, i've heard it imparts a weird taste
