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Best Growlight Currently Available?

Ca++

Well-known member
Your grow location might be difficult to keep secret. I would probably keep with the small grow idea, until you have mastered environmental control. Filters are not as effective as you want them to be, and so your build, and how it works in it's space, is top priority. There is no point doing anything, that just makes you a target. Stealth is everything, because nobody will keep your secret, and thieves are never far away. Things like EC fan, silencers, decent carbon and an exhaust outside are very important. I have never seen a kit as complete as I want it. It's a good start, but just the idea you want a 2x2 isn't the full story. Where the zips and socks are, can be very influential in your choice. Much more so than the brand. At 2x2 the fan and filter space is compromised, before the silencer. These might be under your bed before you are done. 6' isn't exactly tall, when you look at your light and plant pot taking some away, then space from light to plant, you have maybe 3' for your plant. Which isn't good for an auto who doesn't want training.

With space and stealth a concern, you could skip the tent and go for a loft bed, or cabin bed. Something with a high sleeping area, and space under it for the grow, or living space to put the grow elsewhere. You can gain some good floor area with a raised bed. Perhaps a wardrobe rather than tent could look better. Less visual confirmation you're doing anything.


A first run always brings teething problems. Keep it disposable. Put safety first, because once you have a target painted on you, it's hard to wash off. First point of interest, is how the air is leaving your room. I imagine you have extractor fans in a private wash room. Your duct needs to reach it. Putting in a grow is quite holistic, which is why a grow kit rarely meets all your needs.

Some people have done micro grows in PC cases. It can certainly be done, right under peoples noses. The thread of CFL vs LED has a lot of micro-growers taking part. Using cupboards you might find under your sink. Small controllable, stealthy grows.

When I look at a property, my first concern is extraction. Nothing else can happen, before the extraction options are weighed up. They are physical building constraints.


You have probably noticed that every aspect of this hobby can blow out of expected proportions quite quickly. Living to fight another day, is what really matters though.

I like the AC cloudline fans. Mars and another sell the same, but AC have the nicer controller, and seem to be found on offer more often. I don't much care for the controller, as it cares about temp&RH, while I care about smell. They pop up cheap though. The Fan used is a low vibration EC motor one. It makes positioning a lot easier. Get a nice filter, with a proper 50mm deep bed. Maybe a silencer/acoustic dampener. Proper extraction will be the main expenditure, and needs real thought.

After that's figured, you might find it limits where the grow goes. Thus it's size, and so the lighting requirement.

I like this grow. Mother and flower space, doing an easy half Kg, under the bed
 
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Hasch

learning and laughing
Suggest you keep in mind that an extraction fan and filter are mandatory. They will run 24/7
Which will result in noise 24/7, a silencer (or box with insulation) around the fan can help somewhat.

Right next to the bed?
🤔
Not the best idea imo!

A wardrobe grow might do the trick. I am just setting up an Ikea Pax wardrobe as a growbox 236 x 100 x 58 cm. The extractor fan and ducting sits inside in an insulated compartment above the grow space...
 
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Ca++

Well-known member
I just did a 1.4 using a 100mm fan and ducting that dropped to 80mm hard-pipe. I never got past 60% power, and that was to achieve good negative pressure on the room, to trim it there.

If we are talking ~120w in a 2x2, heat isn't a concern. Nor that 3L a day of water we might expect. Extract is really just for smell. I'm open to the idea a smaller fan could work, then most would dream of
Such a thing would deal with a smaller grow, but opening the tent would be tricky. It's then that you need extraction that can do the whole room. Lets be fair, its a grow for fun. That tent will be open a lot. A concideration also for positioning.
 

Ca++

Well-known member
Link doesn't work for me.

Maybe because I'm in Europe?
Me neither.. I can't seem to share from that portal today.
It was just a little case fan. A 2x2x6 tent is only 24 cubic feet. Just about any fan can move that air volume. Presuming it's a centrifugal fan, anyway. I picked a DC one, so there would be no mains hum.
This link might work. It would exchange the air in 30 seconds. Its a bit of a joke, beside other options
It might not vibrate, but would make some air noise at that spinning speed. Some DIY skills could fab up some mufflers though, and make a deep bed filter for such a small setup. Commercially a 4" is about as small as it gets, and is really quite big.

Another cheap option is a cooker hood. Same 60x60 as the tent, so would sit upon the roof. A decent brand one (from a house refit) is going to cost nothing. It's a 4" duct fan, in a different shaped box. Along with some basic speed control. It's an AC fan though, so will vibrate. A decent one will be well balanced though, and the speed control used is effective. While most controls chop the power rapidly, causing vibration, the hood control actually rewires the motor to be lower powered. Lowering vibration. The filter would want to be inline, but that's just a small job. The combination of cooker hood and a variac would give a range of operating conditions, from very low, to sucking the door in. One day you will be trimming in that room, and so you will want a bigger fan than the actual grow needed.

Ideally, with money no object, you would use a 4" EC fan, About 120 euros. Two silencers, 80 euros. Filter, 60 euros. Tape, clamps and duct, 40 euros. 300 euro bill.
 

Mars Hydro Led

Grow on Earth Grow with Mars
Vendor
It's an interesting discussion here to get your real opinion on different brands of lights. We know we're not welcome to participate in this thread at this time, so I'm just browsing for more inspiration. Of course, if you guys have any questions, you can also ask me. 🫡
 
Odd comment on the co2.
CMH was the last of the HID evolution's. CMH is actually old, but using the electronic control gear becoming more popular, they were able to fine tune it a little more. Changing the sockets so that the new drivers and lamps wouldn't get mixed up with the old stuff. It wasn't a great leap, but looked the part. Being MH you get enough blue on your plants, without needing orange lights turned really high to achieve enough. This made a lot of people that struggled with high light, better able to cope. Heat dropped. Plants were not pushed so hard. Often resulting in a better harvest.

LED is alright. Sometimes people struggle though. I too believe you can get the right diodes and drivers from many manufacturers, at many price points. As with nearly all manufacturing, it's cheaper to buy from China. Who can deliver in a few days. Often halving the price.

An old 600 is a garage sale item now. It's a good starting point if you lack experience. A lot of people just can't do it.


Gavita's price and history strike them straight from my considerations. I have seen a great grow under them, but don't feel the lights can take any credit
Agree it's mostly the growers knowledge experience. ECT
 

Storm Shadow

Well-known member
Veteran
What do you guys think about the new Gavita 1900e that’s coming out this month and this replacement for the old school 1700e… they’ll be around $750
 

Hasch

learning and laughing
More blue will make them stay smaller. Smaller in height. Smaller leaves
But that helps some against stretch. So if Sativa landraces are planned or hight in the growspace is very limited the blue light will be beneficial.

I use a main light with a less blue leaning spectrum but have bluish (6500k) led bars to supplement if needed.
 

Ca++

Well-known member
I think harnessing the effect with the supplemental blue light is the better approach. Your way, you have veg lighting, and bloom lighting. Though timing the blue turn off, to still grow some leaves without it, might be interesting. The one's grown under blue, are thicker, more light resistant leaves. Not leaves grown to fully harness what's available.
You are obviously an advanced grower, who can make it work. This 9000e is still a bit niche though. I'm not sure you would want it yourself. Adding some blue or UV bars to irritate them seems a better option.

Gavita LEDs have not been seen as lacking. So it's an odd move to go towards the blue, when everything suggests not to. The idea it will bring out a different pallet is true, but it's by no measure better. They seem to be a few years behind the times with this idea. While perhaps unaware of the morphology aspect that could be of use as a veg light. Though not for everybody.

Edit: I should say, without any measure of how much more blue they are using, there is no measure of how different they will be. I suspect from the age of their opinion, they have used the later samsung 301 chips, such as the evo. The difference won't be life and death, but will be measurable.
To put some numbers to this, 5% blue is HPS and 30% blue is as high as tolerable, before yield is decimated.
 
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JKD

Well-known member
Veteran
Their blurb says advanced blue rather than enhanced blue, but the spectrum looks broadly similar to heliospectra and fluence, bios and others.
 

Phlavorjunkee

Well-known member
Veteran
Won't work on 120v and has an enhanced blue spectrum.

More blue will make them stay smaller. Smaller in height. Smaller leaves. Smaller yield.
Won't work on 120 v is dealbreaker for me. I wasn't aware that was the case
 

Ca++

Well-known member
Their blurb says advanced blue rather than enhanced blue, but the spectrum looks broadly similar to heliospectra and fluence, bios and others.
Where are you looking? I don't see a chart, and it says enhanced.


The 120v version should of been part of the basic product development. I suspect this product will be cancelled very quickly, if they didn't finish that most basic of tasks.
They have gone to market with malfunctioning 600 drivers before. I rate them beside Bose.
 

JKD

Well-known member
Veteran
Where are you looking? I don't see a chart, and it says enhanced.


The 120v version should of been part of the basic product development. I suspect this product will be cancelled very quickly, if they didn't finish that most basic of tasks.
They have gone to market with malfunctioning 600 drivers before. I rate them beside Bose.

-Guess it’s a typo, it’s enhanced everywhere else. Thanks for the correction - link includes chart.
 
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Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The old MH or QMH ARC tubes can't be compared to the new CMH ARC tubes. The new CMH ARC tubes produced a much better spectrum closer to what the sun produces and burned at a cooler temp. IMO we really can't compare QMH with CMH.

Ive ran QMH before CMH was released. For me, CMH crushed all the results I got using HPS or QMH.
 
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Ca++

Well-known member

-Guess it’s a typo, it’s enhanced everywhere else. Thanks for the correction - link includes chart.
I do see a bump in the blue, that suggests a few blue LED's have altered the curve of the white. It's not much though. This could be a marketing blunder, but we can also see the wrong whites I expected. That amber peak of 590nm. They are giving us the blue people on the German forums liked a year or so back. They had given up on UV, but thought blue that was close to UV was useful. We heard this here, but didn't justify it. Leaning instead towards what papers have since proven. Adding blue has a collectively negative effect.
The fringe opinion, is that they might of been better adding some green. Instead, they have boosted 660 by 300% and blue around 50%, when compared to the now depressed amber area. It's a move away from the smooth sunlight spectrum, back towards the peaky spectrum that limits the ultimate ppfd you can use before the bleaching effect.
This looks more and more like a veg light.
 

amanda88

Well-known member
I've bought a Migrow array 235w (for a 4x2 area) last Christmas, simply as theirs so much data on the web about the output, be warned it may take some days to digest, lol
So pleased last month, I went back and got another 3 ...lol,
and made counterweights so they slip up and down with ease, its simply too much to go on about the perks of these lights, but if you do get a light ensure the cables are long enough to reach your site and the wall socket
good luck
 

shotnva777

New member
Thanks guys, think I am going to go with the fluence 2i, one thing I am confused about is this statement..

"Fluence recommends at least one ft3/S of airflow to ensure efficient cooling."

That is referring to an oscillating fan right? Apparently the ballast is able to be remotely mounted which may reduce heat in the growroom but I would need to buy a separate cable.. not sure if the cable I buy online will be compatible here though.. thank you so very much for all your help it is greatly appreciated! :)
Dang I know this is old, but I'm debating on buying a Fluence Spydr 2i 631w or a Viparspectra ks5000 today, for my 4x4x7ft tent. Wish this guy was still around to see how the fluence worked without c02
 

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