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BadKat's CannaPharm: Canna Caps, UV Reactive GLOWING Hash Candy, Canna 'Bombs' & more

Cannabologist

Active member
Veteran
- Ridiculous awesome thread :)

- Holy god what strain is that? That's a yielder! And nice!

- What do you use for medium and nutrients too.. Good god that dry makes me go BAAA haha. Ok I'm high. Must go make goodies now :)
 

Sam_Skunkman

"RESIN BREEDER"
Moderator
Veteran
I have a question or two.
Why use the resin intact? Why not heat it with the oil and put it in a fine food grade nylon bag and press it in a juice press like a Norwalk? And then just use the extracts? I find that resin somewhat and herbal Cannabis specially will give many people the burbs don't you? Because of this I always make extracts and never put herb or resin in the final product.
I have been making resin candies for decades, and I do like them a lot. I have given thousands away to others... Sometimes I make them with 1-4 grams in each candy, that is 1-2 grams of THC per item.
I use just enough cocoa powder and powdered sugar, to keep them solid, with the ghee resin extract.
Have you ever made Cannabis products with extracts, not oil? They keep the smell and tastes of the resin much better then heating resin in the oven exposed, don't you loose most of the terpenes? Does the oven smell a lot when decarboxylating? Those are lost terpenes.
I use a double boiler or a pressure cooker with the resin in the Ghee already.
You can decarboxylate in boiling water as easy as in an oven, dry is not required, heat is.
-SamS
 
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T

Tr33

sam could you please give a recipe for you candies to compare cooking methods.
 

Sam_Skunkman

"RESIN BREEDER"
Moderator
Veteran
Mine are no bake, and I don't have it written down.
I just add 50-100 grams dry sift resin, maybe 50% THC by weight, to just enough Ghee to cover and saturate the resin. Put in a covered double boiler on low heat for 30 min to decarboxylate the THC. Then I press the resin/Ghee in a food grade nylon bag used in machines that press juice hydraulically like Norwalk's do. Then add enough cocoa powder and powdered sugar to keep the candies solid at room temps. I make them with 1-4 grams of resin extract equivalent per candy, so .5-2 grams THC per candy.
How to make Ghee:
http://whatscookingamerica.net/Q-A/ButterGhee.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGBI4IKL58g

I will not give one to people without a warning first, to be sure they are ready...
But I can eat 4-6 a day with no problem at all. Most regular smokers have no problem with 1/2 or even one, Milla eats them one or two at a time, I have seen friends that were laying on the floor for several hours, then they were fine, not that they weren't fine before, they just could not walk so good...

-SamS
 
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Lazyman

Overkill is under-rated.
Veteran
In your chocolate peanut butter bombs, you put parraffin into the chocolate? Isn't parraffin a petroleum wax? I could be mistaken, but I don't think you're supposed to consume it are you?
 
K

kannubis

parraffin is a long used ingredient in chocolate candies, it helps with temper and sheen
 
S

spliphy

212F?

212F?

Mine are no bake, and I don't have it written down.
I just add 50-100 grams dry sift resin, maybe 50% THC by weight, to just enough Ghee to cover and saturate the resin. Put in a covered double boiler on low heat for 30 min to decarboxylate the THC. Then I press the resin/Ghee in a food grade nylon bag used in machines that press juice hydraulically like Norwalk's do. Then add enough cocoa powder and powdered sugar to keep the candies solid at room temps. I make them with 1-4 grams of resin extract equivalent per candy, so .5-2 grams THC per candy.
How to make Ghee:
http://whatscookingamerica.net/Q-A/ButterGhee.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGBI4IKL58g

I will not give one to people without a warning first, to be sure they are ready...
But I can eat 4-6 a day with no problem at all. Most regular smokers have no problem with 1/2 or even one, Milla eats them one or two at a time, I have seen friends that were laying on the floor for several hours, then they were fine, not that they weren't fine before, they just could not walk so good...

-SamS

it will never get hotter than 212F if you are using water in the first boiler will it? are you sure that it is fully decarbed? i'm surprised you don't use a thermometer (candy type) in oil bath. seems it would be worth it to experiment with different extractions and decarboxylation temperatures rather than just "double boiler 30 min."

i prefer extracts that reach higher temperatures than the 212F for my edibles. the double boiler extracts are ok, but higher temps. extractions seem more effective for me.
 
I have a question or two.
Why use the resin intact? Why not heat it with the oil and put it in a fine food grade nylon bag and press it in a juice press like a Norwalk? And then just use the extracts? I find that resin somewhat and herbal Cannabis specially will give many people the burbs don't you? Because of this I always make extracts and never put herb or resin in the final product.
I have been making resin candies for decades, and I do like them a lot. I have given thousands away to others... Sometimes I make them with 1-4 grams in each candy, that is 1-2 grams of THC per item.
I use just enough cocoa powder and powdered sugar, to keep them solid, with the ghee resin extract.
Have you ever made Cannabis products with extracts, not oil? They keep the smell and tastes of the resin much better then heating resin in the oven exposed, don't you loose most of the terpenes? Does the oven smell a lot when decarboxylating? Those are lost terpenes.
I use a double boiler or a pressure cooker with the resin in the Ghee already.
You can decarboxylate in boiling water as easy as in an oven, dry is not required, heat is.
-SamS


I'm not sure if you read the thread? I do process in oil, until the glandular material becomes a liquid bioavailable (minuscule particulated) oil, within the cooking oil, sparing any effort of processing the hash beyond decarboxylation first... not sure which thread you were reading :) It is liquefied to the point that it is highly bioavailable, and useful topically.

Before any heat processing, my hash is first sieved through a 100 micron screen and anything larger is smoked, or discarded, I find this suitable enough for cooking.

You should never require 1 - 2 grams of 'THC' (I'm assuming you mean cannabinoid concentrate) per edible to become stoned or medicated, unless something either went very amiss with the process, or you simply require that much when vaping or smoking. I have a high tolerance and all, but several grams of concentrate when smoked or vaped, is more than enough for me!

Dry, before processing, is absolutely required for the best effect.

Any less, and you're wasting precious material, unless you gently heat process in a pure oil source for up to several days. Just as frying a potato dehydrates it, turning it into a chip, you can cause decarboxylation and dry something out much more slowly, in an oil source on a low heat.

What you're doing to cause conversion, is very literally, drying out the cannabinoids.

This is called decarbolxylation, a process that simply put removes the carboxyl chain, in the form of carbon dioxide and water vapor, converting the cannabinoids to their active form. This can be done more rapidly with a food dehydrator, or with gentle heat in the oven, than it can be done in even a pure oil, but especially an oil mixed with water.
This is why people use clarified butter when cooking with cannabis, it's a little pointless removing the water from your butter, just to put it back in again!

You want as little water as possible, the water methods are incredibly inefficient and outdated, and their only purpose, was for the lazy cook to have an easy way of monitoring temperatures, to prevent the cannabinoids from burning off.

But superior temp control can be achieved easily, by using a better heat source such as the oven, or a double boiler, which utilizes your water between your heat source and oil, rather than by mixing it in.

This would explain why you need to eat an entire few grams just to achieve a strong edible effect, when a dose from a proper oil, which can make people pass out, is only 0.15g! You should never need to eat more than you need to smoke, unless you're processing your herb in a less-than-efficient manner.

Edible cannabis has the potential to be much stronger when eaten, than it is when smoked, but only if properly processed. This is why there is so much dosage discrepancy, you have people who make the weaker, pale green water-butters, who assume you need to eat three and four times what you'd normally smoke, to achieve the same effect... and this is true, but only with improperly, or under-processed edible cannabis.

Here is a post I shared from another forum, helping a member who had made one of the weaker pale-green butters, explaining the function behind the very outdated and old fashioned water methods:

"Once you've learned the basics on how to process your canna correctly, one brownie made from batch which used an entire plants trimmings will knock you out, in less than an hour after eating it!
It's a good start and I always encourage people to experiment, but for now, there are a lot of issues here.

Here's where you could stand to improve your methods the most: Drying your material.

Not only is this important so you can better judge your dose/quantity used, but it is crucial in order to cause cannabinoid conversion, without heat-processing in pure oil for 24 hours. Converting the cannabibnoids to their active/delta form is required, in order to achieve the most of your potency.
Under normal circumstances, we convert the contents of our herb, by drying it out with a lighter (combustion) when smoking, or a vaporizer. In their unaltered state, however, those cannabinoids are virtually impotent even if extracted from the plant matter and eaten alone, in quantity.

Only very minimal, trace amounts of glandular material will be activated when cooking wet plant matter, especially for only 3 hours. That is roughly the minimum, when using well-decarbed material.

Right now, without decarbing and especially without even drying, (which is all decarbing and cannabinoid conversion amounts to, excessive drying, removing the carboxyl chain in the form of carbon dioxide and water vapor), when you skip those steps, by the end of the process you're only seeing anywhere from 1/3, to as little as 1/5 of the effectiveness in your material. And the rest? It's wasted.. gone.

It's not still in the plant matter, although there is always a bit of active and occasionally some unactivated potency left after straining, when processed properly; it's in your 'oil', but unable to be digested, without further processing.

For people who need to make the most of their meds, it's crucial they avoid such brief processing methods. Having material which is at least smoking-dry to start with is good, but even if the material is 'dry' you need to fully decarb the glandular material which takes only 20 minutes in the oven, reducing the oil process to roughly the time you've already used. But if you skip out on decarbing, conversion in warm oil takes place only after roughly 15-24 hours.

Any less, and you're just eating essentially raw glandular material, which is impossible for your body to fully break down and put to use, in the amount of time it has to do so.. think about how certain vegetables appear 'untouched' when they come out the other end, and they are much more easily digestible, than glandular material.

Before adding it to your oil, you'll also want to grind your material to a near-powder. This releases the brittle glandular material trapped inside, creating less work for your oil, and less waste left behind in the plant matter.

Adding water, to plant matter which you're attempting to dry out in oil, is also not going to help matters.

Adding water is an old-fashioned/outdated technique, used simply to prevent your oil temps from rising too high. Many of us old timers, used to waste a good portion of our stash by adding so much water to our canna oil, it makes the process take ages to finish, if it ever does completely, without damaging or destroying some of the earliest cannabinoids to be converted and broken down.

What you need to do instead, especially if you don't want to pre-decarb, is use pure oil or clarified butter (also called 'ghee'). Clarified butter is normal butter, which has been separated from the water it once contained. It's important you don't have any water in your mix to slow down the process, it's just going to require you to heat the canna for longer and longer before it's finished, and that's not what we want.

Instead of adding water to your oil:

You can take two cooking pots, one slightly smaller than the other, put an inch or three of water inside the larger pot and rest the smaller one in that. And suddenly, you have a double boiler! And this is what you're trying to simulate, by adding the water directly to your herb to prevent the temps from rising too high, however it is much more reliable and effective, when the water is kept between your oil and the heat source, rather than blended in with the oil
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Much of that 'dirty water', happens to be comprised of your -glands-. Based on the same principal as making ice hash, while your oil floats on water, the glands sink and fall below. Knowing how fresh the material was, that's a ton of hash that never had a chance to be converted, or broken down. Using water also encourages much more chlorophyll (unpleasant taste) to leach out into both the water, and the oil itself. This is why it is no longer recommended to use water, directly in with your oil. Evaporation and vaporization is a bad sign when making canna oil, and if you add liquid and there's liquid left behind that needs separating later on, it's a pain.

While we're on the topic of water vapor, steam and odor, you shouldn't need to keep windows or vents open. If you're releasing that much vapor, and enough vapor that you feel effected from it, then you're drastically overdoing the process and wasting a ton of your canna; besides causing damage to your remaining cannabinoids, you're losing the earliest, most readily available (considered to be the 'best') potency to the atmosphere, rather than containing it in your oil. What you need to do is keep your temps low enough, that your seal (which you should make from foil, if your lid isn't 100% snug, and they usually aren't) never bursts... a problem you'll have when using water as well.
It is an odorless process when done right, but a small amount of odor if you can't keep it sealed isn't going to hurt anyone.. unless security is an issue, in which case, just seal-well.

All these seemingly-unimportant little hints, and steps, are responsible for all the dosage discrepancies we see today, with somefolks saying you need three times as much herb when eaten, which simply isn't the case.. unless you're eating under-processed oil/canna. It's a much more efficient method of consuming your canna than smoking, somewhere near vaporization in terms of efficiency, but with a more powerful result.



I hope this helps, I know you were looking for an easy method, and using the correct methods happens to be easier; no water to add or separate later on, no odors to worry about. You're making progress though, and that's only a good thing
smile.gif
"



If you can't tell, I've been specializing in edibles for the medical community, for more than a few years. :)
Cannabis has been my life's work. I've traveled the globe for years, specifically for the canna community.




I also have a severe digestive disorder, which prevents me from absorbing everything from nutrition in food, to pharmaceutical medications, to edible cannabis, as easily as most people. Many dispensary edibles, made the 'pale green' butter way, do very little for me.

In order for edible cannabis or hash to work well for me, and for others with digestive difficulties, and in order for it to take a smaller, more practical amount of cannabis to achieve the desired medicinal effect, specific, but very simple steps need to be followed in order for the liquefied glandular material in the resulting oil, to be as systemically bioavailable as possible.


And the same process that makes my medicine work for me, can even further extend the use and efficiency of meds, for people with a closer to 'normal' digestion, who can use far less canna to achieve the same, or better effects.


Hope this helps :)
 
And to address terpene loss, and odor control.. if you're having ANY odor, you're doing it wrong! Or you simply don't care about cannabinoid and terpene conservation, or odor/security.

I should mention that I'm selling my house, I have inspectors and realtors here on a sometimes daily basis up to 5 days a week when it's busy... and I am more often than not heat-processing edible cannabis, the entire time they are here, even while they're viewing the kitchen. This is something I do on a larger scale almost 7 days a week, my goal when sharing recipes in a capacity that the normal patient or user can apply in their own kitchen, is that good meds, should not only be available to folks who have access to the best dispensaries, and coffee shops.

There are sick people everywhere who need help, and don't know how to help themselves in an affordable manner.

But I digress. The temps are too high, and the container was NOT properly sealed, if you have any odor during the process.

Making canna oil using heat, does not need to be a harsh or smelly process. You are using a very, very gentle heat (I can touch my ceramic dish, during the process), and when your material was properly decarbed first, in an equally sealed container, any 'vapor' you may inadvertently create is contained to re-settle in the material before use.

This is why it is so crucial to wait for your containers to cool fully, before breaking their seals.


I can't give my personal capsules or candies made at 0.35g hash strength, to any other patients, because it's almost three times what the normal person needs in order to achieve a highly narcotic effect, in a properly processed oil. If cannabis wasn't this potent in edible form, dispensaries wouldn't sell edibles with doses as small as 0.15g, and recommend that people eat half first, and wait 40 minutes to see how they feel, before eating the rest. That's a common starter dose and recommendation for an extract, or concentrate. And 0.35g is the norm, when starting with herb. Personally I need mine a little stronger, which is why I use hash, at such a higher-than-average dose.

But it is very common for home-made edibles to require huge doses, such the common 'worst case scenario' edible, the firecracker.

If using the available canna as efficiently as possible, is important or crucial to a patient, then following the correct steps when making the oil, is equally as important.

Not everyone can afford to eat grams and grams, before it gives them the medicinal effect they require :) It's certainly easier when you have the quantity at your disposal, but I prefer for my patients sake, to get the most meds, out of the least product.
 
G

Guest3498

Incredible thread. I'm going to try making those candies, thank you for the recipe :joint:
 
Well hello everyone
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I'm sorry I've neglected you lately
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A recipe to reward you for your patience...a jerky tutorial
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-Canna Infused Beef Jerk-


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I have a few health and digestive issues... many days, especially if I've been
particularly ill, or if I'm too weak at the moment to whip anything up in the kitchen,
jerky is all I can stomach and manage to put into my system! So, especially when
dealing with nausea, I'm a little particular (ie. a perfectionist
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) when it comes to
how good it tastes.... the below is my personal recipe.
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It tastes GREAT, with or without canna!


There are several ways you can make it; if you'd like some canna-free, and some
infused, simply wait to add your canna oil and tincture until the coating phase, and
only coat certain pieces. (Make sure you remember which ones!) If you'd like it all
infused, you may include your oil and tincture in the marinade, in this case just be
certain you use enough meat and that you baste frequently enough, that you're not
left with any potent 'juice' after your final basting/coating. I like to do both a potent
marinade, and potent basting.
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If you enjoy jerky, once you've made your own, you will NEVER want to waste your money at the store by buying it pre-made, ever again!

Between you and me, my favorite part of any jerky is the rare bit of fat. So I tend to
leave a fair amount in my jerky, and you can feel free to either trim off or leave as
much as you like.



------------------


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Makes enough for 1 lb, or 6 oz (+/-) dry-weight

'Smokey Original' Beef Jerky

You will need:


- 1 teaspoon, strong hash oil

- ½ teaspoon, strong hash tincture *optional (no more than ½ -1 tsp; if only using one source of potency, go with oil)

- 1 lb, of you favorite cut of beef (I use large roasting cuts, sirloin tips etc., but any cut will turn into great jerky)

- 1 Tbsp crushed/grated fresh ginger

- 1/4 cup soy sauce

- 1/3 cup worcestershire sauce

- 1 tsp red wine vinegar

- 2 tsp crushed onion

- 2 cloves, crushed garlic

- 1 tsp oregano

- ½ tsp ground grains of paradise (or black, or cyan pepper; your choice)

- 3 Tbsp brown sugar

- 2 Tbsp white sugar

- 1 tsp liquid smoke

- 1 tsp honey

- ½ tsp salt

- pinch powdered rosemary


* An Oven, or Toaster Oven

* Meat Tenderizing Mallet

* Saran Wrap

* Oven Bags, for storage

* Food Grade Desiccant Sachet

----


I sometimes prefer to quick-wash my meats before any type of cooking, I fill a large
mixing bowl with cold water and a little salt, then dunk each section in and give it a
squeeze under the water, then pat it dry. I do not do this for sanitation purposes (it
would do little good if your meat was very contaminated, or 'that' far gone) but it's a
good way to prep a meat for marinating, and depending how talented the butcher
was, and how good your local grocers storage methods are, quick washing can be a
lifesaver when you have a pack of meat which smells a little too 'red'. Towel dry
when finished, or skip entirely and move on to the next step.


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Wrap your sections cleanly in plastic wrap, leaving no folds, 'tucks' or creases between the meat and wrap.

Partially freeze.. this makes it very easy to cut, later on.


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While your meat freezes, crush and mix together all other ingredients, -except your
glycerin tincture, hash/canna oil, and honey-.

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Reserve 2 - 3 Tbsp of the resulting liquid from your marinade, in a container that you
can refrigerate. This will be mixed with your honey, oil and glycerin, later on. (You
have options.. you can marinade it all together and use the marinade to baste, or you
can reserve all your canna oil and tincture, for only the basting phase. I feel it is more
sanitary, not basting with the remains of the marinade, but I have basted with the
marinade many times, without trouble.)

Tip- Later on, before adding your glycerin and oil to the basting sauce/marinade,
heat the reserved basting marinade and honey until it is just warm to the touch, and
allow your canna oil to melt in it while whisking, adding the glycerin tincture last.. if
you used coconut oil, it will remain solid unless gently heated this way.


Once your sections of meat are relatively stiff and partially frozen, you can remove
the sections from your freezer individually, unwrap them, and begin slicing them
down to size, while removing excess fat... you will want them long and wide enough
that you can arrange them easily, and about ¼ - 1/3 inch thick.

Once sliced, sandwich several pieces of the cut meat between layers of saran wrap,
take your mallet, and begin pounding the sections until they are relatively flat.


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Add your slender slices of meat to the larger portion of the marinade, not the
reserved few spoons. Once all pieces have been added, cover the container they are
in, and set in the refrigerator for two days.

You could technically begin drying in as little as 8 or so hours, but I MUCH prefer
the flavor and texture produced by a good long marinade. If you only want to
marinade for a few hours, I suggest only refrigerating for half the time desired, and
then allow it to finish at room temp.

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Before placing in the fridge...
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40 or so hours later....


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Once you've allowed your meat time to take on the flavor of the marinade, drain and
either set aside the excess liquid (particularly if you used a canna oil/tincture in the
marinade itself), or discard it. You are going to want to towel-dry the meat, using a
clean lint-free towel, or sections of paper towel.




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---------



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Pre-heat your oven on its lowest setting, usually 170 f.

---------

Keep in mind, that this is well above the recommended safe temperature for cooking
red meat, and still 5 degrees higher the required temperature for chicken. Your meat
will exit the oven safe and sanitary at the end of this process, which can not always
be said of meat or jerky dried in food dehydrators, some of which are incapable of
reaching temperatures above 150 F.

----------



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Once you have toweled off excess moisture, arrange your pieces so they are not
touching each other on your oven racks. They can be close; you just don't want
them touching.



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Only keep your oven entirely shut for the first 30 minutes.

After that, leave it propped just barely open, on either the last 'setting' just before
being closed, or (if you have cats/animals, and that's a little too-open) by folding
your potholder and wedging it in the door, using it to create an inch-or-smaller gap.



----------


Prepare your potent basting sauce, as described earlier in the tutorial. You may use
the marinade the meat soaked in if you like, but if you're concerned, or if your fridge
isn't exactly 'up to code' (clean!) you may wish to consider using only the few
spoons you reserved and set aside, earlier on.

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----------

One and a half, to two hours later

----------



In two hours or less, you will want to begin basting. Your meat should not quite
look leathery yet, but it should clearly be a bit dry. Using a pastry brush, or even a
small section of paper towel, 'baste' each piece of meat. You should have enough
sauce to do this two to three times over the next hour and a half. If using the
remaining marinade, you will be able to baste to your hearts content, give or take.
Be sure you allow an additional hour of dry-time, after your final basting.

First dry, pre-baste


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Third basting...


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Finally dry...


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In a total of four to five hours, from the point you began drying (it can vary
depending on the temperature and humidity of the room, and the time of year), you
should have finished jerky.
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Turn off your oven, and allow it to 'rest' inside a few moments.

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Bag it with a -food grade silica desiccant sachet-, and, leaving the bag open, set
the bagged jerky in the oven for an additional 15 or so minutes at 200 f (sterilizing
the bag, re-sterilizing the meat inside on the chance it came into contact with anything
between drying and bagging, as well as the silica desiccant sachet which can
withstand temps of 250 f during 'rejuvenation').


Finally, seal it up while the bag is still nice and warm, and store it in your cupboard
for up to two months, or in your freezer for several years! You may use ziplock bags
if you plan to consume the jerky within the next few weeks. Home made jerky is
said to have a shelf-life of two to three months, but I'd still suggest eating it within a
month and a half just to be on the safe side.



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Additional recipes for jerky...









Makes enough for ¾ - 1lb

-Teriyaki Jerky-



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- Canna or Hash Oil

- Glycerin tincture

- 2/3 cup soy sauce

- 1/8 cup mirin, or cooking sake

- 2 tsp rice vinegar

- 4 Tbsp brown sugar

- 5 spice powder

- 3 coves crushed garlic

- 2 Tbsp crushed/grated ginger

- 1 Tbsp crushed onion

- ½ tsp grains of paradise or black pepper

- optional, few drops liquid smoke.. go easy, or it won't taste like teriyaki anymore!

Prepare ingredients, dividing marinade if desired for basting, and use as directed in the above tutorial.

--------


Makes enough for ¾ - 1lb

-BBQ Sauce Jerky-


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- Canna or Hash Oil

- Glycerin tincture

- 3/4 cup brown sugar

- ¼ cup scotch or whiskey

- 1/8 cup worcestershire sauce

- 1/3 cup ketchup

- 1 Tbsp honey

- 1 Tbsp crushed onion

- 2 cloves crushed garlic

- ½ tsp cayenne pepper

- ½ tsp mustard powder

- ¼ tsp ground black pepper

- optional, few drops liquid smoke.... go easy, or it won't taste like BBQ sauce anymore!
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Prepare ingredients, dividing marinade if desired for basting, and use as directed in the above tutorial.



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Enjoy!
 
G

guest 77721

Great thread and super recipes, BadKitty!!!

I've just harvested a small run and have about an ounce of popcorn trim that I've been planning on turning into Coconut oil for baking.

Normally I put about 1/8 ounce of ground bud into a 1/4 cup of coconut oil and a 1/4 cup of water and simmer for an hour and then use in a brownie mix.

I'm thinking of grinding up the ounce of trim in with 2 cups of coconut oil in a crockpot and then straining out the plant material. I'm thinking of then washing the plant material with ISO to recover the remaining Coconut oil.

I have made salad oil and butter and strained off the liquids and there is a big loss in how much the plant material holds. I tried to strain out budder made in the same way and found that when the mess cooled down the butter solidified and made a gloppy useless mess. That's why I'm thinking the ISO is the way to recover the lost cooking oil.
 
Just stopping in to give folks a quick 'holiday treat'!

Let me know if the photos below don't work, and I'll re-host them here (I think I'm running out of hosting space here, but that could be another forum though... the place I work with more frequently is unlimited).


-Holiday ~Hash Liqueur~ Cordials-



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I am more than a bit behind with a few other tutorials, but as promised, I am back with a holiday special,
"Just in the (St.) Nick, of time!"



Words can not describe, how much I love a good chocolate covered cordial.



With or without canna, these are even better than the great Koppers cordials... theirs, began my
chocolate-covered-cordial-lust! :smoke:



Cordial filled candies are perhaps easier to make than hard candy, HOWEVER!!, you must follow all the steps,
and all the measurements almost exactly, in order for the candies to come out.. just.... right.




It is a very delicate balance; first building that crisp, fragile, deliciously sugary layer, around the
decadent sultry-sweet liqueur inside, then carefully coating the delicate orb in rich tempered chocolate...





11_Cut_Close_dishh.jpg






The chocolate coating is almost necessary if you plan to keep them around for more than 24 - 48 hours (making
them last more than a day may be a challenge, either way ;) ).


Follow the directions exactly, and your friends and family will be AMAZED with the results.... people will not
believe, that you made them yourself.

I suggest using your time wisely, and making two batches. One for medicating... and one for devouring! :yummy:



If you decide against making two batches, you run the risk of seriously over-medicating.... :eek:




It is a day-long process or longer, but most of that time is spent waiting.... for the 30 or so minutes you're in the
kitchen though, you need to be timely and on your toes! And it is a good idea to finish the chocolate coating,
the following day...



On with the tutorial.....



--------------------------------------------------------




1_ingredients7.jpg




You will need:


- A 'kitchen scale' ;)


- Rounded object, to create the mold shapes. I use a large pestle.



- Kitchen colander or strainer, for sifting



- Plastic/silicone spatula scraper



- Candy thermometer



- Double Boiler setup, larger pot with a few inches of water, smaller pot floats inside...



- Two 9" x 9" or slightly larger casserole dishes, or larger baking pans lined with foil



- Flat chopping board, large enough to cover the casserole dish or pan



- Two 16oz boxes of corn starch
(don't worry, these can be reused for cooking or candy making!)


- 30 strong, preferably 1ml doses, of Golden Dragon
(ours was made using 190
proof everclear, with a gram of very high quality 'Moonshine Haze' BHO/hash,
shipped over by a friend I am VERY grateful to have in times of need!)


- 50 ml of your favorite liqour or liqueur... I've used a blend of Laphroaig Islay single
malt scotch, J & B blended scotch, and Disaronno Amaretto.
In the end, you will want a total of 90ml strong alcohol, so use however much
Dragon you have, then make up for the remainder with your choice of liquor (I have
got away with using above-12% beer successfully, in conjunction with Dragon! I
also usually prefer to use only half a gram per 29 - 30ml alcohol, for two cordials
plus more of an alcohol-vehicle, per dose, but these still came out QUITE strong).


- 220g Sugar


- 75g Water



- 4oz semi sweet chocolate, chopped into small chunks




Optional:

If you'd like them extra-glossy, like the Koppers, you will want to use a soft pastry
brush and 'bakers glaze' aka shellac (yes, it comes from beetles, and yes, it is used
on the Koppers cordial as well as many other store bought candies!)



----------------------------------------



First thing's first; you need to slowly, and carefully pour one whole box, and about ¼ of the second box of corn
starch (a total of 20ozs), into one casserole dish or foil lined pan.



Then pour the remaining corn starch, into the other. The deeper portion should be at least 1¼" - 1½" thick.


Do NOT have friends smoking nearby, don't have your gas stove lit, just in case you create a plume
of dust... you want no open flames, and here's why
:

Dust Explosion Using Corn Starch




Moving on... pre-heat your oven to 190 f, and in the meantime, taking the dish or pan with the MOST corn
starch, level it out to an even layer, and make 30 - 50 deep impressions using your rounded utensil, but do not
go all the way to the base.



They don't need to be perfect just yet, you'll be fixing them up a bit later on. Right now, you just want the general
vicinity surrounding the future candy to be very, very dry. Make the other dish relatively level as well, but
the candy holes will only need to be in one dish or pan.



2_starch_mold.jpg




Place them both in the oven, for 60 minutes.



This will ensure your corn starch is as dry as possible, which is CRUCIAL if you want the candies to come
out properly!! If it is the least bit damp, it will begin to 'wick' the moisture from your liquid candies,
rather than repelling the moisture and behaving like a mold!!




--------------------------


Once your corn starch is fully dry, remove from the oven and set aside.


---------------------------


Add your water to a sauce pot on your stove top, over a low-medium heat, then add the sugar directly in
the center... do NOT let any sugar touch the water near the sides of the pot. If necessary use a wet paper
towel or pastry brush just above the water line, to rinse stray crystals down.



Stir very gently, without splashing or causing the water line to rise and fall, until the sugar dissolves. Once dissolved,
increase the heat to just above medium. At this time you may add your candy thermometer.
(If your smallest pot is still
somewhat large, the liquid sugar will be very shallow... be sure that you keep the tip of your thermometer
submerged, but still just a hair above the base of the pot; do NOT rest it directly on the bottom or it won't be
accurate!)


---------------------------



While your sugar water is heating...

In a double boiler, gently heat your alcohol and Dragon blend until it's just warmer than body temp. The temperature
of the alcohol is not crucial, it just needs to be quite warm, so when it is later combined with the sugar it
doesn't cause it to harden too fast.


-------------------------

For the sugar water (NOT the alcohol):


*** If you will be adding a sweetened liqueur or alcohol such as Amaretto, remove from heat the INSTANT
your candy thermometer reads 244 f.

Sweetened liqueur = 244 f.


*** If you are using an unsweetened hard liquor like vodka or most whiskey, remove from heat the INSTANT
the thermometer reads 246 f .

Unsweetened = 246 f.




3_boiling_sugar.jpg




-------------------------


Before your candy finishes heating to the correct temperature (you will have 8 - 15 minutes depending on the humidity
and specific temperature of your burner), you will want to 'perfect' the depressed indents you made in your corn
starch, prior to heating the moisture out...you don't want any cracks, and you don't want and lumps.




2_starch_mold.jpg





Simply re-inserting the same utensil you used before, is perfect for repairing any flaws. The reason we insert
it first, before heating, is just to be sure that specific area directly where the candy makes contact, is as dry as
possible.


-------------------------





Once you've removed your liquid sugar from the heat, immediately (but gradually, and without splashing)
add your very-warm Dragon and liquor blend to the hot sugar, and stir very VERY gently, and slowly... this is
where you need to be VERY careful.



You want to nearly-incorporate the alcohol, but too much stirring, or stirring too fast, will cause your sugar to
crystallize prematurely!!



The very INSTANT you see white sugar crystals forming, STOP STIRRING!!!... if you stop fast enough, you
may still have time to salvage and make your cordials!

Ideally, you should stop stirring before any crystals even have a chance to form. It's OK if the alcohol looks 'swirly'
in the candy, and if just a few crystals appear, you're safe too... just stop stirring the second you see them.


Unlike a hard candy, you do NOT want to get tricky, and try to use an 'interfering' agent such as glucose-containing
corn syrup, or other syrups, to prevent premature crystallization... you don't want to do this, because you do not
want to prevent the necessary-crystallization from occurring later on, when it needs to, once the candy is resting
in the molds.




------------------------------



Once the Dragon liqueur is incorporated, using a tablespoon, begin to spoon small portions into each cavity in the
corn starch. Try not to create 'bubbles' of starch, these can cause your candies to leak later on! You'll want to
fill nearly to the top.
(I fill to the top and slightly over in a 'bubble', without issue, but to be on the safe side, keep it under the line...
remember, you will be able to make more, or fewer candies, depending on the size of your 'mold'!)




5_close_filled.jpg






4_filled_cavities.jpg






Now, once your cavities have been filled with Dragon/hash candy liqueur, take your kitchen strainer and (again, after
extinguishing any nearby flames) begin sifting corn starch from the second tray, over the filled molds.





6_sifted_starch_cover.jpg





-------------------------



Cover the pan or dish carefully, with a plastic lid or chopping board, and set in a cool, dry place, for 4 hours.


After four hours, while keeping or holding the cover tight, very quickly (and very smoothly) flip the pan upside-down.

This is CRUCIAL!


If you do not flip your candies at all, they will leak!


If you flip them too late, they will leak!


If you flip them too soon, they will.... well, you get the idea. :)


Now, if you've times things just right (or maybe you've licked the pan clean of any remaining sugar and Dragon),
you should be pretty sleepy, and just about ready for bed... it's possible to continue sooner, but it is best not to
continue working with the candies for a good 8 - 10 hours.


-------------------------


In the morning, or ten hours later, extinguish all flames, and very carefully pour the corn starch and candies through
your colander or screen, sifting the starch into a separate container. You can set it aside, and box it back up, for
future cooking and candy-making!


You should now have 30 - 50 candy cordials!



7_Recovered_cordials.jpg





-------------------------


Tempering chocolate:

This can be one of the trickiest portions of the recipe if you're not familiar with chocolate. I strongly recommend
both white chocolate, and semi-sweet chocolate for this recipe. I took pictures during the tempering of some
of my Hashy Bars, and the Peanut Butter BOMBS, and my temper suffered for it! I tried to avoid doing that here,
and even still, the temper could still have been just a hair better....




8_close_solid_chocolate.jpg







Remember: a single drop of water can RUIN your entire batch of chocolate!


Do not dip broken candies in the chocolate, and do not splash your double-boiler!


If you know the chocolate is already tempered, just heat it on your double boiler to a temperature not exceeding 91 f,
and it should be ready for dipping! I like to re-temper even 'already-tempered' chocolate, just in case...



If it's white or milk chocolate, using a double boiler heat to 110 f, then immediately remove from the inner pot
from the hot water. If it is dark chocolate, using a double boiler heat to 114 f, then immediately remove the inner
pot from the hot water.

(Don't just take the double boiler off the burner; the water is still hot, and the temperature of the chocolate
will still rise!)


Set aside some chunks of chocolate beforehand; if all pieces initially added have melted completely by the time
the chocolate reaches temperature, add the few chunks you set aside to seed and help bring the temp down.
If there are solid chunks remaining in the warm chocolate once the required temperature is reached, this
is not necessary.


After the chocolate has cooled to 82 f, place the inner pot carefully back into the double boiler, for just a few
seconds... this will be long enough to bring it up to 88 f.

Do NOT let it exceed 89 - 90 f, or the temper will be ruined! Remove from the water, as soon as 88 f is
achieved, and set the pot down on a folded towel near your candy making station.


Now, you have perfectly tempered chocolate, and you're ready to dip your candies. :)



Any time it's needed, if it starts getting too solid again, just re-heat the chocolate to 88 f.


-------------------------


Inspect and dust off each candy, before dipping.... if it passes the 'dry test' (it's not leaking), then carefully drop
it into the chocolate and flip it with a fork, and when it's coated, using the fork just lift it out and place it down
carefully on either wax paper, or a very-glossy marble slab.




I have to apologize for the hasty quality of the photos during the coating.. it's a part of the process you really
need to pay attention to (but this should give you confidence; if I can whip up tempered chocolates, hard
candies, and cordials using just my own two hands, and all while creating an organized photo tutorial,
then you can make them even more easily! :p )


9_choc_coating.jpg





I've tempered the semi-sweet chocolate, but then simply heated cocoa butter and blended it with powdered sugar
at a random temperature above the melting point, knowing that I wanted less 'sheen' with the white chocolate coat,
than with the dark, for more of a 'snowy' appearance.



If you'd like to use either white chocolate or cocoa butter, and your want to temper it for sheen, just follow the
above directions for tempering, but at the end of the temper reheat only to 84 f. instead of 88 f.


-------------------------


After coating in chocolate, just let your candies harden where they sit, hopefully it's in a cool dry location, and
you'll be ready to seriously impress your friends and family, and blast off for the night!



Enjoy :D

----







Merry Christmas, and happy assorted holidays, everyone!! 'Much luv' - BKS







14_SLab.jpg




12_Finished_Cut_dish.jpg



11_Cut_Close_dishh.jpg



10_finished_dishes.jpg


(All photos on the marble slab, were taken one day after coating with chocolate. All photos on the plates, were taken the day of the coating.)
15_the_slab.jpg
 

meduser180056

Active member
aww shit badkitty finally made it over from that other place. Nice. This lady is the best and so are her recipes. The best recipe I found for caps was from this nice lady. Give her love IC!
 

Adrift

Active member
Veteran
that beef jerky is just incredible!!!!!! i wish i could have spent the holidays with you :)


keep up the great work and happy holidays :joint:
 

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