MynameStitch said:
move up you mean?
the temps are around 17° C (60-62 F), or it's just a question of too intense light?
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are they sick?
- Thread starter gramsci.antonio
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move up you mean?
the temps are around 17° C (60-62 F), or it's just a question of too intense light?
It's the amount of lumen's the light puts out and how close the light is to the plant, the beams of light is too intense and it causes it to destroy the chlorophyll off the leaves leaving it to be white which is where you get the term "bleaching".
Long story short, i raised the light.
Now it is on average 32 cm (12-13 inches) far from the top of the plant.
Is this enough?
Now it is on average 32 cm (12-13 inches) far from the top of the plant.
Is this enough?
ok some update.
Opening of the grow room, light cycle just started:
I toke out the ladies and did some training:
First plant. Before training:
After:
Died leaves:
Second plant. Before:
After:
Died leaves:
Issues:
a) i've some of the leaves are lighter in color. Is this still a Mg deficiency??? How much Mg should i give???
b) There a few strange burns on the leaves. Those are brown and are in the center of the leaf
What's this???
Closing of the grow room:
Opening of the grow room, light cycle just started:
I toke out the ladies and did some training:
First plant. Before training:
After:
Died leaves:
Second plant. Before:
After:
Died leaves:
Issues:
a) i've some of the leaves are lighter in color. Is this still a Mg deficiency??? How much Mg should i give???
b) There a few strange burns on the leaves. Those are brown and are in the center of the leaf
What's this???
Closing of the grow room:
THat looks like the damage from either over feeding or pH is off, as long as it does not spread your fine; this may have been the damage that was caused by when you were over feeding them recently.
The lighter color is normal on the newer leaves, give them a little time they will darken up.
Now if the ligher color was coming from the petiols outwards to the leaves tips, you would have issues, but it's not doing this so your fine with that part
Your light should be fine now that you moved it up a bit, when they grow upwards a bit just watch for leave cupping and white stuff on the leaves, this could be a sign of light bleaching.
Nice job btw with the training
The lighter color is normal on the newer leaves, give them a little time they will darken up.
Now if the ligher color was coming from the petiols outwards to the leaves tips, you would have issues, but it's not doing this so your fine with that part
Your light should be fine now that you moved it up a bit, when they grow upwards a bit just watch for leave cupping and white stuff on the leaves, this could be a sign of light bleaching.
Nice job btw with the training
MynameStitch said:THat looks like the damage from either over feeding or pH is off, as long as it does not spread your fine; this may have been the damage that was caused by when you were over feeding them recently.
The lighter color is normal on the newer leaves, give them a little time they will darken up.
Now if the ligher color was coming from the petiols outwards to the leaves tips, you would have issues, but it's not doing this so your fine with that part
Your light should be fine now that you moved it up a bit, when they grow upwards a bit just watch for leave cupping and white stuff on the leaves, this could be a sign of light bleaching.
sure, all will be done!
Nice job btw with the training
ehehe thanx.
Anyhow i have to say i'm not new to this. When i was younger my parents were farmers and we grew plants to be sold, like small olives, lemon, apple, vitis vinifera...
And for the appeal a good training is fundamental.
Being a child, i was the one supposed to go on trees and work with the bendings
Ahh so green thumbs run in the family ehh
Bendings? What is bendings?
Bendings? What is bendings?
MynameStitch said:Ahh so green thumbs run in the family ehh
When you bend the plants to train her and use some wire to hold it still...
I'm really sorry for my english
And what's worse is that next year i'm going to spend 3 years in netherlands studying... i have to improve my english ASAP
lol the netherlands they speak english and dutch there
Ahh I see, no your english is not bad, I just never heard that word "bendings" before; it has to be a term Italians use; even though I am 90% Italian origin and I don't live in Italy I don't know the word; but now I do
See, ya learn something new almost everyday
Ahh I see, no your english is not bad, I just never heard that word "bendings" before; it has to be a term Italians use; even though I am 90% Italian origin and I don't live in Italy I don't know the word; but now I do
See, ya learn something new almost everyday
MynameStitch said:lol the netherlands they speak english and dutch there
Ahh I see, no your english is not bad, I just never heard that word "bendings" before; it has to be a term Italians use; even though I am 90% Italian origin and I don't live in Italy I don't know the word; but now I do
See, ya learn something new almost everyday
Anyhow half an hour before the light turned off i take the plants out for watering and a bit more bending.
I prepared a 5 liter solution of:
-Ro/tap water till the ppm reached 50
-12 ml Coco A+12 ml Coco B
-12.5 ml of cannazym
-5 ml of booster (half the dose)
Final PPM=600, ph @ 5.83
Maybe you could think the water is a bit too much, but i did this:
And after 15 minutes a emptied the bottom shelf, in order to prevent the coming back of fungus gnats.
I did this becasue i need to regulate the outgoing ph. But it's still wrong
The ph of the outgoing water was 6.3 for plant 2, and 6.8 for plant 1.
What can i do to lower the ph??? Should i give the next nutrient solution with ph @ 5.2? or lower? or stick to 5.8 and keep on watering till the ph will adjust?
Because i alredy flushed TWICE with 5 liter each time but the ph lowered just by a bit.
Instead the ppm are great.
If you can get some pH down that will work; you can get it from a hydro store or a pet shop; BUT you have to make sure it says on the bottle safe for plants.
THe pH needs to come down, have you tested pH when you add all your nutrients?
with all that nutrients you added it does not sound right that it should only be 600 ppms......... How much water are you using with all that nutrients?
THe pH needs to come down, have you tested pH when you add all your nutrients?
with all that nutrients you added it does not sound right that it should only be 600 ppms......... How much water are you using with all that nutrients?
MynameStitch said:
I used a bit more than 5 liters of water, maybe 5.5.
I have ph down from GHE, and also some PH up... And my tester is correctly calibrated...
But i'm afraid that before i gave some high ph water... like 6.8. Because i did my test without shaking enough the water... so the top water was a lower ph than the bottom... This is way measuring the ph after a pair of hours i always find it rasing....
Now i use a bottle and i shake very well... so the ph is WAY more stable... like in 6 hours move around 0.1...
Should i give now lower ph water? like around 5.2... to stabilize the situation?
Yes, what ever pH will go into the coco is what the final value will be so make sure the pH is that of hydro 5.5 to 6.3
Ok great i feeded 5 liter of water @ ph 5.5 and now the outgoing ph is 6.2 for one, 6.4 for the other... Great!!!
Another pair of watering and i should get around 5.8!!!
Oh, i lowered a bit the light, now is @ 10 inch of distance, on average. I've read that this is the optimal distance.
Another pair of watering and i should get around 5.8!!!
Oh, i lowered a bit the light, now is @ 10 inch of distance, on average. I've read that this is the optimal distance.
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You are right on the highest setting for soiless
There is no such thing as optimal distance; because not all strains can handle optimum distance; if you see bleaching happen raise the light; to be safe I would raise the light up ; it's your grow though; they have been stressed out so much as it is I wouldn't want to take a chance on possibly putting them in another stress situation.
There is no such thing as optimal distance; because not all strains can handle optimum distance; if you see bleaching happen raise the light; to be safe I would raise the light up ; it's your grow though; they have been stressed out so much as it is I wouldn't want to take a chance on possibly putting them in another stress situation.
MynameStitch said:You are right on the highest setting for soiless
a little step at time... i'm still a newbie Knowing from the beginning that i would have used a lot of light on a very small area i choosed a strain able to handle a lot of light... Infact flo is light-demanding, in order to grow the buds, wich are very dense...
But till now your advices saved my ass a lot of times...
, so i raised the light to 14 inches...one question: is ok to give now this?
http://www.canna-uk.com/products_additives/about_cannaboost.html
And moreover: how can i know when flowering start? do i count from the first day of switch to 12/12?
http://www.canna-uk.com/products_additives/about_cannaboost.html
And moreover: how can i know when flowering start? do i count from the first day of switch to 12/12?
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If you want to keep the light up where you had it before go ahead
I just don't want ther lumens to dry out the leaves and then end up getting them to cup upwards, when leaves cup upwards they are trying to save alll the moisture in the leaf as possible to try to save it.....
or if it happens too quickly you get a bleaching effect rather than cupping; so if you want to go ahead and put it back to where it was; just watch for bleaching, because flowering plants will grow inches overnight sometimes; not right now, but when they hit flowering they do.
it takes about a week for the plants to switch over from the chages in the photo period. Your plants are not auto flowering, meaning you don't have to switch them over to 12/12 for them to flower; they just flower. Yours are the kind that you HAVE to put them into 12/12 for them the flower.
So I normally wait about a week before switching over to bloom nutrients; about a week into flowering they have started to switch over for the need for bloom ferts.
They don't just change into flowering over night...... it takes a bit.
SAtivas; which your plants are not; your's have more indica in them..... fatter leaves......
sativas take longer to flower and the more % sativa they are the bigger and longer they take to flower out; sometimes they never finish out if they are nearly pure sativa.
So wait a week before giving it that boost; you can listen to the directions with canna products.....
When I said you are at the highest pH for the soil, meaning you are right at the MAX pH that is safe for soiless
5.5- 6.3 is the range you can safely keep them in.....
I just don't want ther lumens to dry out the leaves and then end up getting them to cup upwards, when leaves cup upwards they are trying to save alll the moisture in the leaf as possible to try to save it.....
or if it happens too quickly you get a bleaching effect rather than cupping; so if you want to go ahead and put it back to where it was; just watch for bleaching, because flowering plants will grow inches overnight sometimes; not right now, but when they hit flowering they do.
it takes about a week for the plants to switch over from the chages in the photo period. Your plants are not auto flowering, meaning you don't have to switch them over to 12/12 for them to flower; they just flower. Yours are the kind that you HAVE to put them into 12/12 for them the flower.
So I normally wait about a week before switching over to bloom nutrients; about a week into flowering they have started to switch over for the need for bloom ferts.
They don't just change into flowering over night...... it takes a bit.
SAtivas; which your plants are not; your's have more indica in them..... fatter leaves......
sativas take longer to flower and the more % sativa they are the bigger and longer they take to flower out; sometimes they never finish out if they are nearly pure sativa.
So wait a week before giving it that boost; you can listen to the directions with canna products.....
When I said you are at the highest pH for the soil, meaning you are right at the MAX pH that is safe for soiless
5.5- 6.3 is the range you can safely keep them in.....
Thanx Stitch! Your post are always very informative!
Here's my lastest photos:
I changed the light, now i'm using a 400 W CMH... Pure white!
Anyhow i saw this:
Is this light burn?
Anyhow here's some new burns
is still the old nuteburn?
Could i now raise my nutes from 600 ppm to.... 1000 ppm? It looks like they are hungry! many leaves are a lighter green...
Here's my lastest photos:
I changed the light, now i'm using a 400 W CMH... Pure white!
Anyhow i saw this:
Is this light burn?
Anyhow here's some new burns
is still the old nuteburn?Could i now raise my nutes from 600 ppm to.... 1000 ppm? It looks like they are hungry! many leaves are a lighter green...
Ya, that is old nuteburn; it's tan necrotic area which means the tissue has been dead for some time, so don't worry about that.
All the pics look like old damage nothing new but in the 2nd pic there is some very very very minor start of leaf cupping upwards; so the llight was a little too close.
Why did ya switch bulbs?
The spectrum you are using now was best used for vegging; the orange bulb was best for flowering plants; you can still use it and it is good to use; but the orange spectrum is the best for flowering plants.
The bulb you have now, if you have 2 lights you could mix them up and have both blue and orange spectrum which is really good for them. Blue spectrum allows them to be more bushy and shorter where the orange allows them to grow a bit taller and not as bushy; so when you mix them up you get a tall bushy plant
blue spectrum tends to keep them a little more squat like you want them to though; so if you want to keep them squat like they are keep the bulb you have now; they will grow taller but not as much as they would if you were using the orange spectrum bulb.
All the pics look like old damage nothing new
but in the 2nd pic there is some very very very minor start of leaf cupping upwards; so the llight was a little too close.Why did ya switch bulbs?
The spectrum you are using now was best used for vegging; the orange bulb was best for flowering plants; you can still use it and it is good to use; but the orange spectrum is the best for flowering plants.
The bulb you have now, if you have 2 lights you could mix them up and have both blue and orange spectrum which is really good for them. Blue spectrum allows them to be more bushy and shorter where the orange allows them to grow a bit taller and not as bushy; so when you mix them up you get a tall bushy plant
blue spectrum tends to keep them a little more squat like you want them to though; so if you want to keep them squat like they are keep the bulb you have now; they will grow taller but not as much as they would if you were using the orange spectrum bulb.
