40degsouth
Well-known member
Hey everyone.
We’ll it’s the last day of summer here so l know all you northern hemisphere gardeners are champing at the bit to get going. For me I’m looking forward to harvest and finishing up.
Pipeline, over winter l usually get the bulk amount of compost in, to top up the beds, by the end of July or early August. In September I topdress with my organic amendments because they only start to work as the soil warms up and the biology gets going.
I’ve found l can do this anytime during the winter and it will only start breaking down when the soil’s ready anyway. If l want to speed things along I’ll top dress, or scratch it into the top layer of the soil.
It’s really only salts, or leftover available nutrients, that’ll get washed out of the soil with big amounts of rain, so if l feel the soil needs it I’ll add that at planting and maybe again during the season if the plant needs it. Of course a good winter cover crop will help with all of this and retain, use and stop, nutrients from washing out.
Hey enter sandman, septoria was my original diagnosis but I’m leaning more towards a fungal issue, like rust, now. One thing I’ve learnt over the past few years ,studying and experimenting with the disease l get here, is that “leaf spot” is an extremely generic term. It covers so many different diseases and pathogens that manifest in the same way and the disease you get there is completely different to the one l get here because of mutations in the genome caused by over applications of fungicides or bactericides. It’s crazy how fast these things mutate and growing now is so much harder than it used to be.
The weekly full cream milk, 1-10 parts, is working really well so far but I started later in the season and the leaves that were unprotected early, are starting to spot while the newer leaves, that have emerged after treatment started, remain unaffected,
So here’s one example of what I’m on about.
Fusarium on the indica leaning Wam Wam. I noticed the top of the plant yellowing off and thought it was a bit potassium deficient. I knew there was plenty in the bed because of the amount of wood ash l topdressed over the winter. I checked the moisture in the bed and it was lacking a bit so l gave her a deep watering. A couple of days later we had 12 hours of rain and the next day the canker had exploded out of the bark and had completely girdled the stem.
I’ve tried to save plants with all sorts of different treatments and strategies but the one I’ve found that works the best is to cut everything off above the cleanest set of laterals, sterilise the wound and cover it over so no moisture gets in. I do this of a night, once the brix within the plant has been taken into the roots, you’ll see the leaves drop.
This gives the plant a fighting chance because of the root to shoot ratios and done this early in flower the plant still has the ability to stack some flower. There’s no guarantee but there was no procrastination on this decision which only allows the disease to spread.
Cheers,
40.
We’ll it’s the last day of summer here so l know all you northern hemisphere gardeners are champing at the bit to get going. For me I’m looking forward to harvest and finishing up.
Pipeline, over winter l usually get the bulk amount of compost in, to top up the beds, by the end of July or early August. In September I topdress with my organic amendments because they only start to work as the soil warms up and the biology gets going.
I’ve found l can do this anytime during the winter and it will only start breaking down when the soil’s ready anyway. If l want to speed things along I’ll top dress, or scratch it into the top layer of the soil.
It’s really only salts, or leftover available nutrients, that’ll get washed out of the soil with big amounts of rain, so if l feel the soil needs it I’ll add that at planting and maybe again during the season if the plant needs it. Of course a good winter cover crop will help with all of this and retain, use and stop, nutrients from washing out.
Hey enter sandman, septoria was my original diagnosis but I’m leaning more towards a fungal issue, like rust, now. One thing I’ve learnt over the past few years ,studying and experimenting with the disease l get here, is that “leaf spot” is an extremely generic term. It covers so many different diseases and pathogens that manifest in the same way and the disease you get there is completely different to the one l get here because of mutations in the genome caused by over applications of fungicides or bactericides. It’s crazy how fast these things mutate and growing now is so much harder than it used to be.
The weekly full cream milk, 1-10 parts, is working really well so far but I started later in the season and the leaves that were unprotected early, are starting to spot while the newer leaves, that have emerged after treatment started, remain unaffected,
So here’s one example of what I’m on about.
Fusarium on the indica leaning Wam Wam. I noticed the top of the plant yellowing off and thought it was a bit potassium deficient. I knew there was plenty in the bed because of the amount of wood ash l topdressed over the winter. I checked the moisture in the bed and it was lacking a bit so l gave her a deep watering. A couple of days later we had 12 hours of rain and the next day the canker had exploded out of the bark and had completely girdled the stem.
I’ve tried to save plants with all sorts of different treatments and strategies but the one I’ve found that works the best is to cut everything off above the cleanest set of laterals, sterilise the wound and cover it over so no moisture gets in. I do this of a night, once the brix within the plant has been taken into the roots, you’ll see the leaves drop.
This gives the plant a fighting chance because of the root to shoot ratios and done this early in flower the plant still has the ability to stack some flower. There’s no guarantee but there was no procrastination on this decision which only allows the disease to spread.
Cheers,
40.
this was about 5 years ago give or take.
