ANYTHING OUTDOOR 2022 EVERYWHERE

[40degsouth]

Hey everyone.
I remember reading and trying to track down Owls Quick Skunk, l think it was called, looked good. I’m pretty sure he and Esbe used to work together.
Yeah Pipeline, once they’ve finished the wet they go back into a dry trial, two of each. This is just a small part of the due diligence l do in my breeding.
And to finish, here’s the photos of the leaf spot on a few different plants just for you Old Piney. I’m pretty sure you’ll get the idea even though it’s dry and crispy today.
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[pipeline]

That looks pretty serious. Do you think there is anything causing excess nitrogen? One plant had what looked like burnt leaf tips. But high N can promote disease. They don't look overfed though.

Remove as many diseased leaves as you can and take them away to help sanitation and prevent it spreading. Some of those plants are really infected though! Are there some less susceptible individuals?

 

[Old Piney]

I’m pretty sure you’ll get the idea even though it’s dry and crispy today.

That's some extensive leaf spot I Ive only a few individual plants get it that bad , I just culled them out .It was not spreading to other plants at all best of luck with that .I like beer Cheers

 

[40degsouth]

Hey everyone,
Yeah Pipeline, there are individuals that are resistant and the plants l posted up are males that l’m assessing for this exact trait. One thing I have learnt over the last five or so years is that l can only beat it with good selections in the breeding process. I have alowed the disease to spread on these plants, without any intervention, for proper appraisement.
Once I’m done with the current line I’m working on it will be resistant to this horrible shit as long as it doesn’t mutate and change, which can easily happen with any fungal, bacterial and probably, viral diseases with the over use of sprays.
So here’s a warning to you all…..be careful of municipal composts, bagged potting mixes, seeds/seedlings and different straws used for mulch. Think about what may also be hidden within the inputs you’re importing into your garden.
On a more positive note, the milk spray is really doing very well so far on the big girls, fingers crossed, salt over the shoulder, turn around three times and don’t step on the cracks.
I’ll be doing a lot of palm to face slapping if this is the cure
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[pipeline]

Thats great, I may use some of your techniques to make a line. Thats some due dilligence right there. Just make sure that the ones you select are good smoke too, thats the end goal of course.

Breeding for resistant varieties is the best way around disease, you don't have to spray.

I get my media from a local mixing company. I would say the local sources would have less chance to bring something like that in than something that gets shipped long distance.

About time to get supplies together. Thanks for the warning.

 

[40degsouth]

Hey everyone,
Old Piney, the green caterpillars we get here can be easily distracted with a few brassicas as companion/sacrificial plants. I’ve been doing this for a very long time and I’ve never had any problems at all with them.

The bud rot caterpillars are the ones I have to watch out for and the ones that do the most damage. Forrrnightly BT sprays are the first line of defence, starting now before they get a foots hold. It’s important to remember that it doesn’t kill them straight away and they can still create damage over a few days as they die.
Here’s a couple of photos of one that has stuck a few leaves together in order to create an impromptu house. I have found that they’re easily predated on when they build these structures, probably by wasps but once they’re in a bud they’re safe from everything other than BT or observational culling.

And here’s the culprit.

And Pipeline,
here’s the reason l top dress and don’t dig, unless I absolutely have to. The fungal hyphael networks and biology, in my soils are extremely precious to me and when I see them attached to the roots of plants, such as this cauliflower, l know the soil is healthy and I’m doing everything right.
40.

 

[Old Piney]

yes that's the worm. So plant some cabbage for the cabbageworm makes sense but I'll stick with the BT because I'm not into dealing with deer fence for the cabbage. I am fortunate the deer don't bother with my plants at all. They eat the weed around them but not my plants .I'm sure the cabbage or kale or what ever would be gone .It's the same thing with the cabbageworm once the get in the bud it's all over

 

[pipeline]

Wow that is a really small worm to weave a web and stick those leaves together! We have those types of caterpillars here that stick leaves together. Soil looks good that is a lot of roots and fungus! I see white hyphae/mycelium in landscape pine bark based aged mulch where it has been really thick and added on year after year in the landscape.

The cauliflower roots look pretty happy in it. I think the white fungus just breaking down the organic matter, most of it is not a mycorrhizae species, but they are in there I'm sure. Plant roots feed the microbes and fungus by secreting sugars out the roots so thats probably what you see, healthy colonies up close.

Long periods of freezing weather cause the ground to loosen up over the winter, and bugs do the rest for aeration. Have you ever worked all the soil up in the past to amend it?

 

[40degsouth]

Hey everyone,
here’s two different phenos of the Blackdog x AOG f5. The first one leans fractionally more towards the Blackdog but the second one, that’s closer to certain Ancient expressions, has much better flower to leaf ratio, improved node spacing and is a bit more disease resistant.
Although I’ll probably use both of them for appraisal into the Blackdog, I’ll definitely be using the second one into the AOG f5 female and the Project that, l believe, are seperate lines to each other.

And Pipeline, when I was a much younger gardener than I am now I did used to till, an established garden, to amend but now l top dress and allow the biology to do all the tilling for me. Green manure crops, as l mentioned earlier, are an amazing way to maintain soil biology and nutrient loads for other wise fallow beds or garden beds in general.
As gardeners we need to move away from the thought that it’s the foliage that is the beneficial part of a green manure crop, it’s not, it’s the roots of the plants that we are encouraging to grow that maintains habitat for the soil microbiome and when we disturb this with till, the balance of nutrient distribution through the soil horizons and biology are literally turned upside down.
Science is only just beginning to understand the intricacies of these processes and one of the things that has blown my mind over the last few years is the belief, that’s now being backed up by science, that plants have the ability to manipulate the microbiome around the root zone, through the release of different exudates in order to directly influence not only the proliferation of certain bacteria but to fertilise themselves with the exact plant available nutrients they need for healthy growth that these bacteria generate as waste.
This very fact has led me to believe that because plants have an awareness of what they need to survive and get it through the manipulation of external, environmental factors they have a consciousness and think therefore they are
Cheers,
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[40degsouth]

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[Mitsuharu]

Nice tree shot!

 

[40degsouth]

Hey, thanks Mitsuharu, l really appreciate that. She’s not the biggest plant I’ve ever grown but she is the biggest, earliest plant I’ve ever grown. I could of pushed her a bit harder and possibly got another two or three feet out of her but I’m really happy with how this plants done for the first time growing the Wam Wams.
And I thought I’d share a picture of the (Blackdog x Golden Tiger) bx2’s finished seeds and ready for another pollination, as l discussed a few posts back.
You might also notice some of the sugar leaves that have died off due to the stress of the reveg. It’s a great way to encourage mould into the plants and see just how resistant they really are; another part of the due diligence on the line.

 

[40degsouth]

Big Wam Wam close to half way.

 

[Oli88]

24 days flowering. Seeing 3 different phenos. A purple one with strong stems a frosty one with long petioles and one with long internodes. Still even among the phenos there’s a lot of variation which is cool because these days I like more variety.

 

[40degsouth]

Hey everyone.
A bit of an interesting thing that some of you might enjoy having a look at. The first picture is a Blackdog just before the point of wilt, notice how the leaves cup and go crinkley. This is her telling me she really needs a drink.

The second photo is of the same plant a few hours later, after a watering. She’s still not as happy or hydrated as the same clone in the third photo but she’ll be there by tomorrow morning.
I’ve also taken advantage of the forced flower, because of the lack of water, to pollinate this plant and get a week or so jump on an autumn pollination; every day counts down on the 40th parallel.

And gardening isn’t just about shaping life, it’s also about death and so here’s a photo of one of the Blackdog leaning Ancient OGf5 cross’. I’m pretty sure I caused this with overwatering, the strange thing is that this happened three or four weeks ago and she only started yellowing about seven days ago and today l can call it.
It’s a bummer but a true Blackdog can take over and under-watering like a boss so it saves me wasting a pollination on this plant and all the testing that goes with it.

But yayyy…..her sister’s massive

What a roller coaster ride
Cheers,
40.

 

[Hashislife]

Hi friends,
I received my seeds for the 2023 season. normally I put some to germinate at the end of February (most die of cold, but those that survive are my most productive) but this year it is really too cold for me risk.
but it doesn't matter today I'm going to present them to you

well I don't introduce you to Himalaya gold, I'm growing it again because I loved the hash you get with it.

og kush sfv from advanced seed, I like to have a powerful little kush for when friends come over:

OG Kush SFV offers exquisite aromas with Kush terpenes and pine and lemon undertones, enhanced under organic cultivation. In addition, in hydroponic cultivation systems, the resin and the most Kush nuances shine in an extraordinary way.

It produces a very relaxing and powerful Indica effect, not suitable for occasional smokers as it can easily knock you out and stop you from performing any task.

• Type: Feminised cannabis seeds
• Genetics: OG Kush x Afghani
• Genotype: Indica Sativa
• Indoor flowering: 9-10 weeks
• Outdoor harvest: October
• Indoor yield: Very High (550g per m2)
• Outdoor yield: High (>550g per plant)
• THC: High (24%)

strawberry banana grape, I made it for a year and I loved the taste, especially the hash you get with:

Strawberry Banana Grape, a hybrid with an incredibly fruity and sweet flavour​

The result is a hybrid with Sativa structure that develops in a well-branched pyramid shape with a height of 2-3m, with a prominent central cola.

This variety can produce a yield of up to 500g per m2 in an indoor grow tent and up to 800g per plant outdoors when planted in good soil. After about 60-65 days of maturation the crop will be ready for harvest.

Fill yourself with euphoria and psychedelia with Strawberry Banana Grape​

It produces thick and fleshy flowers distributed throughout the plant, filling all its branches in the form of tight and resinous colas. It is recommended to use stakes and ties to redistribute the weight of the buds, avoiding broken branches before they are ready.

Strawberry Banana Grape releases a complex, intense and delicious aroma combining a multitude of fruity and sweet nuances ranging from red fruits, pineapple and banana on a Diesel background. It is a full-bodied flavour that can be intensified when consumed in a cannabis vaporiser.

It has a cerebral, psychoactive and euphoric effect that acts quickly and lasts a long time, relaxing your body little by little and carrying you to an intense state of pleasure.

Seedsman Strawberry Banana Grape info:​

• Type: Feminised seeds
• Genetics: Strawberry x Grape x Banana OG
• Sativa dominant hybrid
• Indoor flowering: 60-65 days
• Outdoor harvest: Mid October
• Indoor yield: 500g per m2
• Outdoor yield: up to 800g per plant
• THC: 15-20%

Jamaican dream, it is one of the few varieties that I grow regularly, it has a very positive sativa effect without bad side effects, productive and very early:
The main trait of this marijuana strain is its short flowering period ... just 6 weeks!
Jamaican Dream is a strong and stable plant very easy to grow. It presents a typical Christmas tree structure and produces large buds with abundant trichomes.

Aromas of pine and lime and a sweet mild with coffee undertones.
Clear active and energetic sativa effect.

Features of Jamaican Dream from Eva Seeds:​

• Cropping field: Indoor and outdoor
• Sex: Feminised
• Type: Sativa 90% - Indica 10%
• Yield: Medium-High
• Flowering time on indoos: 42 to 45 days
• Harvest time on outdoor: End of September
• THC level: 17%

Diet Durban THCV, the little pearl of the year, it has an extremely interesting profile, despite an exorbitant price, I only took 3, hoping it grows properly here:

Diet Durban THCV 1:1, cannabis with pine and coniferous flavours, and a 1:1 THCV/THC ratio of 7% and a CBD level of about 2%​

Diet Durban THCV 1:1 delivers THC and THCV in equal amounts of around 7% (1:1 ratio). The new trends in the cannabis sector are leading to genetics with different cannabinoid profiles to the usual ones. They provide the consumer varieties with higher cannabinoid content so far less known such as the THVC present in some Sativa landrace genetics from equatorial areas.

Diet Durban THCV 1:1, lucid and stimulating cerebral effects with a great flower production​

Diet Durban THCV 1:1 can be harvested in indoor cultivation in just about 8-10 weeks. It is a strain with a high flower production. Outdoors, the harvest is ready in late October, therefore it is recommended to use a greenhouse in cold or rainy areas.

Diet Durban THCV 1:1 is dominated by pine and coniferous (moist forest) flavours with a clear citric component. It shows THCV:THC 1:1 ratios at 14%, with CBD levels of 2%. It provides lucid and stimulating cerebral effects, often acting as an appetite suppressant.

Seedsman Diet Durban THCV 1:1 info:​

• Type: Feminised cannabis seed
• Genetics: Secret
• Sativa Indica hybrid
• Indoor flowering: 56-70 days
• Outdoor harvest: Mid-late October
• THC+THCV (1:1 ratio): 14%
• CBD: 2%
• Yield: High

lemon og candy, offered by the grow shop, I think it will be good, but I don't know if I would:
Lemon OG Candy is the result of the cross between a Super Lemon OG elite cut and Amnesia Haze. It is a vigorous and easy to grow plant, ideal for novice growers since it is also highly resistant to pests and diseases. It provides excellent harvests with any growing medium or system.

Thanks to its vegetative vigour this plant does not need a prolongued growth stage prior to bloom. Actually, and depending on growing conditions, it can be directly germinated under a 12/12 photoperiod. Philosopher Seeds reported excellent results when growing Lemon OG Candy in 3.5L pots and with flowering photoperiod since the beginning.

Despite its Sativa dominance, Lemon OG Candy is harvested after 70 days of flowering indoors, around late October if grown outdoors in the northern hemisphere. In both cases the grower can expect abundant harvests of frosty buds, up to 600gr/m2 indoors and 500-2000gr/plant outdoors.

The frosty buds of Lemon OG Candy release a very pleasant Haze scent with sweet and earthy notes. The effect is stimulating and creative, ideal for practicing sports and chilling with friends.

Lemon OG Candy by Philosopher Seeds info:​

• Genetics: Amnesia Haze x Super Lemon OG
• Type: Feminised seeds
• 65% Sativa - 35% Indica hybrid
• Indoor flowering: 55-65 days
• Indoor yield: 500-600gr/m2
• Outdoor harvest (N.hemisphere): late October
• Outdoor harvest (S.hemisphere): early April
• Outdoor yield: 500-2000gr/plant
• THC: 20%
• CBD: 0,1%
• CBG: 1,2%

 

[pipeline]

Thanks for all the great posts and pics guys! Great concepts 40Degsouth and thanks for sharing!

Sorry to hear about the overwatered plant not making it. I have had that happen at a plot that was in the wet area of a field and had saturated soil down beneath the root zone. It may have been a disease that took hold. I recommend removing the plant and roots to take away any possible diseases.

I like your style doing no till. The frost heaves the soil up and worms and surface insects work around the clock mixing and breaking down organic matter. There was an episode of The Potcast with cannabis growers who are using this method in large beds indoors and its catching on because the flower quality is so good.

Thats a good point about the microbiome, if you can keep plants growing there, especially legumes it will keep those beneficial colonies going. I have weeds growing out there but theres a lot of bare soil. Depending on how much rain you get, once you loosen up the soil once, it stays loose for a while.

When you top dress amendments, do you put mulch or compost on top to keep them from washing?

Home | No Till Kings

No Till Kings Living Soil Flower. Where to find our product, learn about living soil and see why we're one of the cleanest cannabis companies around. 21+

www.notillkings.com

 

[pipeline]

Sweet sounds like a great lineup there Hashislife! On the Potcast they talk about how OG Kush has great stability in producing potent quality flowers. I have that in my cultivar and I can see some excellent afghan qualities being displayed. Yeah it will basically stop you from performing any task. Just set the pipe down for a minute. Starting to break through that with a little help from my friends.

Waiting for soil to dry out to work the soil, wait, maybe not. Not I will till, for at least the herb plot, but tilling shallow only about a shovel deep at the most. I will try some no till on the veggies this year with the compost and mulch. Thanks for the suggestion! Looks like your plants are doing great 40! Watch out for overwatering!

 

[Hashislife]

Sweet sounds like a great lineup there Hashislife! On the Potcast they talk about how OG Kush has great stability in producing potent quality flowers. I have that in my cultivar and I can see some excellent afghan qualities being displayed. Yeah it will basically stop you from performing any task. Just set the pipe down for a minute. Starting to break through that with a little help from my friends.

Waiting for soil to dry out to work the soil, wait, maybe not. Not I will till, for at least the herb plot, but tilling shallow only about a shovel deep at the most. I will try some no till on the veggies this year with the compost and mulch. Thanks for the suggestion! Looks like your plants are doing great 40! Watch out for overwatering!

yes I love og kush for their high quality of flowers and especially their grow resistance and productivity.
my favorite is sapphire og from Humboldt seeds, but 80€ 5 seeds is prohibitive.
but this year the strain I'm really interested in is the diet Durban THCV, I've never tried a 1:1 thc/thcv ratio, it should be a weed that makes you laugh easily, especially with its 2% cbd which will prevent psychedelic excesses. its cannabinoid ratio resembles that of an old school strain, and seems to me more interesting than a thc bomb without anything else.

 

[enter sandman]

Hey everyone.
I remember reading and trying to track down Owls Quick Skunk, l think it was called, looked good. I’m pretty sure he and Esbe used to work together.
Yeah Pipeline, once they’ve finished the wet they go back into a dry trial, two of each. This is just a small part of the due diligence l do in my breeding.
And to finish, here’s the photos of the leaf spot on a few different plants just for you Old Piney. I’m pretty sure you’ll get the idea even though it’s dry and crispy today.
40 View attachment 18809124 View attachment 18809125 View attachment 18809126 View attachment 18809127 View attachment 18809128 View attachment 18809129

That looks similar to what I had last year on my 2nd grow spot. Leaf Septoria is what I determined it to be & it's a fungal disease straight from Hell itself if you don't address it in time. It looks similar to other conditions/nutrient deficiencies, so it's easy to mistake it for something else. It attacked mine right at the very beginning of flower & I did not treat it in time because I thought it was something else.

Take any leaf or infected material & put it in a plastic bag - and take it far away from the spot you are in. Copper fungicide it your best weapon & I would spray everything...even the top layer of soil & the surrounding ground around the plants. Look at nearby vegetation to see if it is present there also...and spray that with some copper.

I used copper fungicide in a big pump spray container once a week, got it under control somewhat...but it greatly weakened the plants so much that the harvest was cut down by around 1/6th of what I would normally get. Tiny buds. My other grow spot -not that far away- was not affected...but this is the nature of Leaf Septoria. It hides in the ground itself, goes dormant for the Winter & if you so happen to be unlucky enough to plant something on an affected area...you are doomed most likely.

I hope you don't have Septoria. Good luck!