AliceD Returns - Blimburn GG#4 Auto freebies

[moose eater]

With the rate at which your plants are taking up H2O, I wonidered several things.

What's the ph of your soilless mix? If the ph is good (perfereably between 6.0 aand 6.4, with a preference for the middle of that range; 6.2-ish) is there a sufficient amount of balanced nutrient source in your mix? What's the relative humidity in your grow area?

All of those factors can lead or contribute to more or less rapid uptake of H2O.

If a plant is scouting for nutrients and not finding sufficient amounts, sometimes they can absorb more water in seeking food.

Lower RH can result in greater evaporation and more H2O as a result.

ph can affect uptake relative to a lock-out and sometimes a complimentary nutrient excess, too.

Have you added any calcium lately?

There appears both signs of tip burn on someof the leaves, and a calcium and/or potassium deficiency, at the same time.

Joe Fresh's pics in his guide in the informary, which I linked to before, can be of some help. There are other leaf charts available on line as well.

 

[AliceDAnon]

With the rate at which your plants are taking up H2O, I wonidered several things.

What's the ph of your soilless mix? If the ph is good (perfereably between 6.0 aand 6.4, with a preference for the middle of that range; 6.2-ish) is there a sufficient amount of balanced nutrient source in your mix? What's the relative humidity in your grow area?

All of those factors can lead or contribute to more or less rapid uptake of H2O.

If a plant is scouting for nutrients and not finding sufficient amounts, sometimes they can absorb more water in seeking food.

Lower RH can result in greater evaporation and more H2O as a result.

ph can affect uptake relative to a lock-out and sometimes a complimentary nutrient excess, too.

Have you added any calcium lately?

There appears both signs of tip burn on someof the leaves, and a calcium and/or potassium deficiency, at the same time.

Joe Fresh's pics in his guide in the informary, which I linked to before, can be of some help. There are other leaf charts available on line as well.

Started adding CalMag a few weeks ago when you first shared the infirmary post.

By tip burn, do you mean nute burn or light burn?

 

[AliceDAnon]

What's the ph of your soilless mix? If the ph is good (perfereably between 6.0 aand 6.4, with a preference for the middle of that range; 6.2-ish) is there a sufficient amount of balanced nutrient source in your mix? What's the relative humidity in your grow area?

I am growing in soil not soilless. I don't measure run-off PH, only inflow PH and runoff EC. Inflow PH is within 6.2-6.8 range.

RH has been between 40-50% the last few weeks.

 

[moose eater]

Started adding CalMag a few weeks ago when you first shared the infirmary post.

By tip burn, do you mean nute burn or light burn?

My mix already tends to run high in potassium and magnesium (part of the reason I ceased using most commercial worm castings, but for a very small amount, compared to what I used previously; they also tend to run high in K and mag, even when using the best ones available here, such as Wonder Worm and Roots Organic).

I found a product on the advice of Jadoka (spelling?) in an advanced growers thread, on the forums long ago, and he advised Safer-Gro's Biomin; 1-0-0 calcium. So calcium with no magnesium.

You can also get more calcium via gypsm, but watch your sulfur levels.

I wanted to be able to increase calcium without upping mag, so I used the Biomin, but the presence of 1-0-0 re. nitrogen isn't acceptable to some, even though it's scant amounts..

 

[moose eater]

I am growing in soil not soilless. I don't measure run-off PH, only inflow PH and runoff EC. Inflow PH is within 6.2-6.8 range.

RH has been between 40-50% the last few weeks.

What are your temperatures running in your grow area?

 

[AliceDAnon]

What are your temperatures running in your grow area?

Growing under LEDs I'm around 84F day time and 76F nighttime at canopy level.

 

[moose eater]

By the way, when I first started to get really focused in growing, back when I first bought the simpler book by Rosenthal, 'The Closet Cultivator', I'd read anther article in High Times by the Merry Danksters, and had sought a ph of ~7 for a long time.

Using strictly organic bat guano teas for the most part and a bit of older style pulverised kelp meal, I had better than very good results. (*I got a well then, switched from edlivered water to well water, and the amendments changed notably, and that runnof success ddwindled a bit).

Who knows how accurate my ph readings were back then, but I was being fairly conservative in my organic amendments, etc., and using about 2 to2-1/2 cups of high N bat guano or the same amount of high P guano, in a 5-gallon bucket of aerated (aquarium pumps) H2O, depending on the phase of growth (veg or bloom), with a boost of bloom mix from a bottle at transplant time into larger pots, right before the switch to 12:12. (I have nearly always srtictly done photo-sensitive, natural selection/'regular' seeds/plants).

 

[moose eater]

Growing under LEDs I'm around 84F day time and 76F nighttime at canopy level.

Can you bring that down a bit. Maybe 65 f at night and 70 to 75 f. in the lit period of the day?

I take it you're in a warm to hot climate?

I run temps a bit high myself when I have all of my boxes going, but that's been a while now, I have about 450-485 cfm's going through the shop in a diagonal pattern, exiting the shop into the basement via a custom made carbon filter box, and I switched several years ago from 400 hps digitals to 315cmh with 250-watt equivalent LED, outdoor, wet-rated flood lights on custom machined brackets in the corners of the boxes at about the 4' to 4.5' level, with scant angles to them, (x 4 per box), with 3,000k to 4000k spectrum on the floods, and it made some noteworthy differences in reducing the heat a bit, and upping the plant happiness factor.

I'm afraid I'm a poor source on the LED as a primary light source, thing.

Only LED crop I did was an experimental and small effort, with all 4 boxes running on my more conventional lighting at that time (400 digital hps stuff), and wanting to flower out a couple extra mothers, using one of my 48" x ~20" mother cupboards, I hung a couple 90-watt 'saucers' in the mother cupboard and did a variety of plants (4 total), including Royal Queen's Power Flower, noting several differences in the outcomes with that (one-time only) set-up, compared to my routine more typical (at that time) 400-watt set-ups.

 

[AliceDAnon]

Can you bring that down a bit. Maybe 65 f at night and 70 to 75 f. in the lit period of the day?

I take it you're in a warm to hot climate?

I run temps a bit high myself when I have all of my boxes going, but that's been a while now, I have about 450-485 cfm's going through the shop in a diagonal pattern, exiting the shop into the basement via a custom made carbon filter box, and I switched several years ago from 400 hps digitals to 315cmh with 250-watt equivalent LED, outdoor, wet-rated flood lights on custom machined brackets in the corners of the boxes at about the 4' to 4.5' level, with scant angles to them, (x 4 per box), with 3,000k to 4000k spectrum on the floods, and it made some noteworthy differences in reducing the heat a bit, and upping the plant happiness factor.

I'm afraid I'm a poor source on the LED as a primary light source, thing.

Only LED crop I did was an experimental and small effort, with all 4 boxes running on my more conventional lighting at that time (400 digital hps stuff), and wanting to flower out a couple extra mothers, using one of my 48" x ~20" mother cupboards, I hung a couple 90-watt 'saucers' in the mother cupboard and did a variety of plants (4 total), including Royal Queen's Power Flower, noting several differences in the outcomes with that (one-time only) set-up, compared to my routine more typical (at that time) 400-watt set-ups.

I was running lower but read that 84 is the ideal temp for LEDs and that you want to run hotter with them. I could be wrong though....

 

[moose eater]

I was running lower but read that 84 is the ideal temp for LEDs and that you want to run hotter with them. I could be wrong though....

The scant crop I did under the low-powered LED saucers took up a bit more feed; I do recall that.

The Safer-Gro Biomin 1-0-0 liquid calcium is/was available at a number of locations, from grow shops to Amazon, and all points between.

 

[AliceDAnon]

Are these just calyxes or is my plant herming? Day 65...

 

[brickweeder]

pick one off and see? They look like seeds in the making to me, but that one near the right looks like it has fresh pistils coming out...so might as well pick one off and check.

 

[moose eater]

Are these just calyxes or is my plant herming? Day 65...

View attachment 18802590

The one referenced by brickweeder, with the lone pistil extended, has lines that resemble a male flower pod before opening, but the pistil contradicts that appearance.

Pluck one and see, as brickweeder advised. But I'd pluck one that looks suspicious but doesn't have a pistil, as that one is telling on itself already.

 

[AliceDAnon]

All of the calyxes have pistils upon closer examination, but the two I pulled off and opened seem like they might have tiny seeds in them. I can't really tell. I'm worried now. Should I remove them all?

 

[moose eater]

All of the calyxes have pistils upon closer examination, but the two I pulled off and opened seem like they might have tiny seeds in them. I can't really tell. I'm worried now. Should I remove them all?

No. It's been clear that your plants have some amount of distress happening, which can cause male stress flowers; a completely different status than a true hermaphrodite.

If plants are stressed, the areas beneath the blooms, away from the light, and lower on the plant, are often the first places you'll see male stress pods; cannabis having a wonderful ability that when she senses a bad year/situation, she can perpetuate herself into another season via this mechanism.

You can guarantee any seeds from such an arrangement will be female, HOWEVER, do not ever get into the habit of planting one season's crop of stress seeds, then planting the next season's self-pollinated seeds form that crop of seeds from stress pods, in successive perpetual 'selfed' seeds, as this is the direct path to unstable plants that will have notably more genetic drift over a shorter period of time.

Only use 'selfed' seeds/plants once, and either clone or discard to avoid that path. And then only if from otherwise stable genetics/plants.

If the plants are happier, and/or come from more stable genetics, you'll see few to no male stress flowers, but again, the presence of male stress flowers is NOT true hermaphrodism.

We've nearly all had some amount of 'education' with this circumstance. It's not the endof the world.

On the other hand, if you have other plants with no male srtess pods on them, you may want to sequester any plants with male stress flowers on them, to avoid pollinating others.

Good luck. Hang in there.

 

[AliceDAnon]

No. It's been clear that your plants have some amount of distress happening, which can cause male stress flowers; a completely different status than a true hermaphrodite.

If plants are stressed, the areas beneath the blooms, away from the light, and lower on the plant, are often the first places you'll see male stress pods; cannabis having a wonderful ability that when she senses a bad year/situation, she can perpetuate herself into another season via this mechanism.

You can guarantee any seeds from such an arrangement will be female, HOWEVER, do not ever get into the habit of planting one season's crop of stress seeds, then planting the next season's self-pollinated seeds form that crop of seeds from stress pods, in successive perpetual 'selfed' seeds, as this is the direct path to unstable plants that will have notably more genetic drift over a shorter period of time.

Only use 'selfed' seeds/plants once, and either clone or discard to avoid that path. And then only if from otherwise stable genetics/plants.

If the plants are happier, and/or come from more stable genetics, you'll see few to no male stress flowers, but again, the presence of male stress flowers is NOT true hermaphrodism.

We've nearly all had some amount of 'education' with this circumstance. It's not the endof the world.

On the other hand, if you have other plants with no male srtess pods on them, you may want to sequester any plants with male stress flowers on them, to avoid pollinating others.

Good luck. Hang in there.

So since I shouldn't remove them, how will this progress? Will they burst and polinate both of my plants? Only seeing it on this one bud site on one plant.

 

[AliceDAnon]

No. It's been clear that your plants have some amount of distress happening, which can cause male stress flowers; a completely different status than a true hermaphrodite.

If plants are stressed, the areas beneath the blooms, away from the light, and lower on the plant, are often the first places you'll see male stress pods; cannabis having a wonderful ability that when she senses a bad year/situation, she can perpetuate herself into another season via this mechanism.

You can guarantee any seeds from such an arrangement will be female, HOWEVER, do not ever get into the habit of planting one season's crop of stress seeds, then planting the next season's self-pollinated seeds form that crop of seeds from stress pods, in successive perpetual 'selfed' seeds, as this is the direct path to unstable plants that will have notably more genetic drift over a shorter period of time.

Only use 'selfed' seeds/plants once, and either clone or discard to avoid that path. And then only if from otherwise stable genetics/plants.

If the plants are happier, and/or come from more stable genetics, you'll see few to no male stress flowers, but again, the presence of male stress flowers is NOT true hermaphrodism.

We've nearly all had some amount of 'education' with this circumstance. It's not the endof the world.

On the other hand, if you have other plants with no male srtess pods on them, you may want to sequester any plants with male stress flowers on them, to avoid pollinating others.

Good luck. Hang in there.

I believe this is from the high temps. I brought them down a few weeks ago as you advised.

 

[moose eater]

So far, it appears that you have female bracts there.

If you sample some and they show male features, then you can choose to segregate them (those with any male stress pods) from the others, putting them into another place/area, or kill them outright (the reverse of China's preference for male children), or accept that seeded weed is still mostly smokable (we smoked it for decades from all around the world).

Your call, and will depend on how you want it to turn out, and how much area you have at your disposal to run other plants.

Bearing in mind that pollin is VERY small, and if the areas share air movement, even from other tents, you can still have -some- (not necessarily a lot) of effect from the pollin.

(**When my plants were happy, and I had seeds appear in limited number, I wondered if airborne pollin from a neighbor's licensed commercial (outdoor) grow was affecting my girls. Might make for a humorous claim in civil court, anyway)..

 

[AliceDAnon]

So far, it appears that you have female bracts there.

If you sample some and they show male features, then you can choose to segregate them (those with any male stress pods) form the others, putting them into another place/area, or kill them outright (the reverse of China's preference for male children), or accept that seeded weed is still mostly smokable (we smoked it for decades from all around the world).

Your call, and wil depend on how you want it to turn out, and jhow much area you have at your disposal to run other plants.

Bearing in mind that pollin is VERY small, and if the areas share air movement, even from other tents, you can still have -some- (not necessarily a lot) of effect from the pollin.

(**When my plants were happy, and I had seeds appear in limited number, I wondered if airborne pollin from a neighbor's licensed commercial (outdoor) grow was affecting my girls. Might make for a humorous claim in civil court, anyway)..

I'm cracking up about the China comment.

I have no other room for segregation. It stays in the tent or it dies. And I can't kill it outside of the tent anyways due to stealth.

If the worst case scenario is some seeds in the bud, that's fine. This is for personal smoke.

I'm hoping these are just very swollen. I'm inexperienced so figured I would ask the pros.

 

[moose eater]

I don't know what sources you have access to for testing soils/soilless mixes, but here we send off through a known soil and water outlet, and they, in turn, process the samples, & send them out to a well-respected testing lab. I ioften do Mehlich III and plain water extraction; they tend to make a deal with me and not charge full price for both when I do that simultaneously.

If your lighting is right, your ph is good (I test ph with both in-going liquid ph and out-going drainage ph, as that will tell you what kind of affect your mix is having on your liquid, and that alone is functional information worthy of knowing), and you find your nutrients in your mix are good (via soil testing), then you can asssume either some other environmental factor is causing stress, or questionable genetics.

It can become a rabbit hole for sure.

Recall Willem Dafoe's comment in the bunker in the movie 'Platoon', when he says, "Feeling good is good enough." It can apply to a LOT of circumstances.

Also, there are bagged soil mixes that can kill, stress, or screw up your plants. The companies selling such potting mixes often don't care. They already got your money. I could waste more of your time and relate anecdotal stories re. this, but let it set there as sometimes-fact; not all amendments or soils/mixes purchased in the commerical gardening markets are good for plants. I've bought total shit from a hardware in South Central Alaska that killed stuff. Literally.