AliceD Returns - Blimburn GG#4 Auto freebies

[AliceDAnon]

I trimmed off some of the dead material right before they went to sleep.

I think I'm starting to get my PPFD in the right spot...

 

[AliceDAnon]

 

[moose eater]

a lot of places recommend flipping when the plant is only 8 inches tall, which if you do it like that doesn't take much longer than an auto, being light proof is important for autos too

If you flip them when small, as Mexweed was saying, then you can keep them small, and still do photo-period plants. Think of it as doing a SOG type plant, but with a handful instead of a full larger area.

You just can't dally when they start to get into vegging, and count on at least a 50% stretch into the first several weeks of bloom cycle.

If you flip the plants bit late, you can always train them sideways and weight them to train them if you have enough room. (leave some room for things going sideways. literally and figuratively)..

Good luck.

 

[AliceDAnon]

Day 34

These will be transplanted to final 5 gallon containers this weekend. Hoping it doesn't shock them too bad.

Plant 1 is doing well, no real concern with this one.

Plant 2 continues to stretch even though it is the tallest by several inches and has been receiving a higher PPFD the entire grow. Any ideas? Is this just a phenotype thing?

Plant 2 is also showing signs of some sort of decifiency. Photos of some of the leaves below. Can someone help me diagnose this?

 

[moose eater]

My initial thought is calcium. But it might be pests, based on the well-defined lines around the perimeter of some of the affected areas.

Joe's thread has some good pics for diagnostics.

Joe's Fresh Guide to Sick Plant Diagnosis

I decided to make this guide based on stitches and the other nute def guides out there, all i wanted to do was make it more pic friendly, as i find the existing pics in the sick plants thread is outdated or does not give a wide enough array of what the problem could get to. i in no way am...

www.icmag.com

 

[moose eater]

Image re-posted from Joe's thread in the infirmary.

Good luck!

 

[AliceDAnon]

My initial thought is calcium. But it might be pests, based on the well-defined lines around the perimeter of some of the affected areas.

Joe's thread has some good pics for diagnostics.

Joe's Fresh Guide to Sick Plant Diagnosis

I decided to make this guide based on stitches and the other nute def guides out there, all i wanted to do was make it more pic friendly, as i find the existing pics in the sick plants thread is outdated or does not give a wide enough array of what the problem could get to. i in no way am...

www.icmag.com

My thought was calcium as well. Oh no I hope it's not pests. They scare me.

 

[moose eater]

My thought was calcium as well. Oh no I hope it's not pests. They scare me.

Take a close peek at the second image in the chart; I was also wondering about diseases; again, due to the fairly precise outline in the spotting in several places.

You might have several issues occurring (I suspect you do) but none of them look catastrophic at this point. The upper growth on them looks pretty good, especially the one.

Keep on keeping on. Don't love them too much. Excess kindness can do more harm than a lot of other things.

 

[AliceDAnon]

Take a close peek at the second image in the chart; I was also wondering about diseases; again, due to the fairly precise outline in the spotting in several places.

You might have several issues occurring (I suspect you do) but none of them look catastrophic at this point. The upper growth on them looks pretty good, especially the one.

Keep on keeping on. Don't love them too much. Excess kindness can do more harm than a lot of other things.

Not sure where to start. I am a beginner identifying deficiencies and pests. I'll read through this thread in depth. I also have Ed Rosenthal's Marijuana Garden Saver book. I've never read it so I'll open that up and have a look.

 

[moose eater]

Ed's stuff is good. Others' books and info are good as well. Jorge Cervantes, and others.

The internet, to include other grow sites, whether cannabis related or not.

Soil write-ups from some sources re. specific amendments; went down too many rabbit holes of this salt, or that buffering agent, or.... Yadda yadda, and slowly figured out some of what was helpful and some of what wasn't.

I cruised through years of amazing success as a beginner, and thought I had it nailed, then a new H2O well, very hard water (380 total hardness), diminishing quality in organic amendments and more, threw me some curve balls and tempered my ego a bit. Still struggle with some things. Maybe more than 'some' on occasion..

Dealt with fusarium wilt as a real 'You think you know so much?' moment. Eventually whipped it without ending any crops permanently.

Then root aphids invaded my estranged youngest son's (indoor) grapefruit tree, the REAL borg, and further tempering of ego and taxing of 'What do I really know?" occurred.

I found help here from persons much more patient and giving than some others, with far less ego, who could communicate in ways that I understood, and I KEPT THEIR NOTES(!!!) (*emphasis added; as my brain grayed, and I was into fewer plant-counts than 'once upon a commercial time in the west'. Having important tid-bits I'd forget off and on, located in places I could find them, have been life-savers).

Your plants mostly don't look too bad at all. Up top they're mostly pretty good.. The one looks very nice, indeed.

Keep on stroking; you'll do fine. Your heart's in the right place, and you want them to do well.

Edit: I meant that 'kindness' remark. Less is more. Too much of anything is not good for them, as a rule.
In a soilless mix, keep your ph around 6.0 to 6.4. In the middle of that is excellent. Keep your calcium pretty high, if possible. especially when they're younger. (*Excess magnesium and excess potassium can be a serious rabbit hole at times; "Danger Will Robinson!!").

 

[AliceDAnon]

How soon after transplanting can I resume training?

 

[AliceDAnon]

Ed's stuff is good. Others' books and info are good as well. Jorge Cervantes, and others.

The internet, to include other grow sites, whether cannabis related or not.

Soil write-ups from some sources re. specific amendments; went down too many rabbit holes of this salt, or that buffering agent, or.... Yadda yadda, and slowly figured out some of what was helpful and some of what wasn't.

I cruised through years of amazing success as a beginner, and thought I had it nailed, then a new H2O well, very hard water (380 total hardness), diminishing quality in organic amendments and more, threw me some curve balls and tempered my ego a bit. Still struggle with some things. Maybe more than 'some' on occasion..

Dealt with fusarium wilt as a real 'You think you know so much?' moment. Eventually whipped it without ending any crops permanently.

Then root aphids invaded my estranged youngest son's (indoor) grapefruit tree, the REAL borg, and further tempering of ego and taxing of 'What do I really know?" occurred.

I found help here from persons much more patient and giving than some others, with far less ego, who could communicate in ways that I understood, and I KEPT THEIR NOTES(!!!) (*emphasis added; as my brain grayed, and I was into fewer plant-counts than 'once upon a commercial time in the west'. Having important tid-bits I'd forget off and on, located in places I could find them, have been life-savers).

Your plants mostly don't look too bad at all. Up top they're mostly pretty good.. The one looks very nice, indeed.

Keep on stroking; you'll do fine. Your heart's in the right place, and you want them to do well.

Edit: I meant that 'kindness' remark. Less is more. Too much of anything is not good for them, as a rule.
In a soilless mix, keep your ph around 6.0 to 6.4. In the middle of that is excellent. Keep your calcium pretty high, if possible. especially when they're younger. (*Excess magnesium and excess potassium can be a serious rabbit hole at times; "Danger Will Robinson!!").

All valuable advice. I will remember this and KEEP YOUR NOTES

 

[moose eater]

All valuable advice. I will remember this and KEEP YOUR NOTES

My notes are not that worthy. Sometimes I know something, and sometimes I have little more than a hunch.

But there are some true gurus who possess kindness and patience, and finding those who you can communicate with, who have limited ego, who get satisfaction from watching their students learn and SUCCEED, that's a Christmas gift. They're out there. Some may even be here still.

I'll keep watching, and if I think I have an idea, or something beneficial by way of experience or knowledge, I'll chime in, if that's OK.

Look up some posts, maybe even by topic; posts by slownickel, growingcrazy, and microbeman, (microbe is still here, I think, unless the tenor of the Speakers Corner drove him away). Limeygreen, too. There are others. I'd have to 'check my notes' to remember who all let on to bits of wisdom here and there.

I'm sure there's others as competent as those who are either gone, or under new names.

Even with the gurus, sometimes especially with the gurus, you'll find in-fighting over perceptions, theories, beliefs, methodology, etc. I sometimes sat on the sidelines for those, and tried to pick the best info dripping from the feuds. We all sometimes make a loaf of bread differently.

I used to grow for fun and smoke decades ago, then grew for profit after the profession I was previously in saw the world differently than I do, to the extent that option of income ended (probably for the best)... I grew for many years off and on, but can say that much of the best weed I ever grew, there was an angel on my proverbial shoulder keeping my screw-ups small.. During those years, I had plenty of books on the subject, many of them now revised since, but the simplest one I had when I became more interested in some sort of specific approach, was Rosenthal's 'Closet Cultivator.' It worked well for me.

 

[moose eater]

How soon after transplanting can I resume training?

I worked with a 12-16 day minimum after transplanting to start any changes in chow or lighting. Preferably toward the 16 day mark. But I was super-cropping.

(*Back then I used 2200 Classic <pot size>, and now I typically use 7-gallon pots, except for my mothers. The large rpots provide a longer time period for the organics to dwindle, and the healthier the roots, the happier the plant; my opinion).

If you're keeping the plants smaller, trying a sea of green type approach but with fewer plants, then you'll have less time if you're trying to not let them get too big. I've done 16 plants in in a 4'x4' 'box' in everything from Classic 1200's to the Classic 2000's, and up to 9 plants in Classic 2200s and the 7-gallon pots. Keeping things mostly symetrical in placement for lighting and air movement.

That said, I had misunderstood your space concerns, as emphasized when you spoke of 5-gallon buckets/pots. Big, (HUGE) for a SOG approach.

My time-frame above is in re. to root development and over-coming transplant shock. Getting them situated into what ever phase they're going into. And I specifically do natural selection (no femmed unless they're from my own stress flowers) and photo-period plants.

To train them, in my opinion, that time frame is less of an issue.

 

[AliceDAnon]

I returned today from a week long vacation. Left the grow unattended with XL BluMat Classics, one in each pot. I've never tried BluMats before. I gave them a good watering before I left and then filled gave them each a gallon of PH'ed water for the BluMats.

Lights and ventilation remained consistent but I unplugged my humidifier before I left so they probably had low RH. My camera for viewing the environment fell down and I couldn't see my screen.

I will check on the plants when lights come on to see how they fared and if there is any growth.

 

[AliceDAnon]

The plants looked fine, seems like the BluMats worked. They drank about .75 gallons each, a little light but they weren't too dry.

I gave them a good watering and did some more LST. When is the right time to stop training on autoflowers?

 

[AliceDAnon]

What is the ideal quantity of water to give at one time?

I understand how to judge soil moisture and irrigation frequency. I'm more interested to dial in irrigation quantity. I'm sure this is all dependent on plant size and stage are there any guidelines?

Right now I supply each 5 Gallon pot/plant with 1 gallon of water twice a week, drying out between waterings.

Is it better to do 1/2 gallon each, 3-4 times a week? How much are we looking to irrigate in a single occurance?

 

[moose eater]

What is the ideal quantity of water to give at one time?

I understand how to judge soil moisture and irrigation frequency. I'm more interested to dial in irrigation quantity. I'm sure this is all dependent on plant size and stage are there any guidelines?

Right now I supply each 5 Gallon pot/plant with 1 gallon of water twice a week, drying out between waterings.

Is it better to do 1/2 gallon each, 3-4 times a week? How much are we looking to irrigate in a single occurance?

I meant to leave a reply the other day. Apologies for my lateness.

Volume of H2O is dictated by the type of medium you're watering, the condition of it at the time of watering, etc.

If you're using a peat-based soilless mix, and you haven't allowed it to become bone-dry, then a gallon of H2O for a 5-gallon pot seems a bit excessive to me.

Are you using a peat-based soilless mix, and are you letting the pots get too dry?

If peat gets too dry, then rehydration without something added to facilitate the re-wetting can/will often lead to dry pockets in the container/medium, despite having plenty of run-off from the watering, giving a misperception of the plants being properly watered, and even sometimes inviting pathogens.

I use what most regard as 7-gallon pots these days (though I believe they're technicaly slightly smaller than that), and use both the (subjective) sense of the relative weight of the pot, as well as any detectable sign of moisture in the medium at a 3-4 inch depth, then allow another day or 2 when I no longer feel that moisture as a cooling sensation on my fingers..

At that time I add about 2/3 of a gallon, and a bit more if I think I've let the medium get dry beyond that preferred point.

That's simply my method; not cast in stone, or what another might advise.

And the base of my mix is made up of equal parts of Sunshine Mix #4 Advanced Organic (with some wetting agent/moisture retention aggregate in it) and BX Pro-Mix, with lots of volcanic pumice, a bit of perlite, a fair bit of vermiculite, and a small bit of zeolite. There's lots else in there, by way of organic amendments, as well.

 

[AliceDAnon]

I meant to leave a reply the other day. Apologies for my lateness.

Volume of H2O is dictated by the type of medium you're watering, the condition of it at the time of watering, etc.

If you're using a peat-based soilless mix, and you haven't allowed it to become bone-dry, then a gallon of H2O for a 5-gallon pot seems a bit excessive to me.

Are you using a peat-based soilless mix, and are you letting the pots get too dry?

If peat gets too dry, then rehydration without something added to facilitate the re-wetting can/will often lead to dry pockets in the container/medium, despite having plenty of run-off from the watering, giving a misperception of the plants being properly watered, and even sometimes inviting pathogens.

I use what most regard as 7-gallon pots these days (though I believe they're technicaly slightly smaller than that), and use both the (subjective) sense of the relative weight of the pot, as well as any detectable sign of moisture in the medium at a 3-4 inch depth, then allow another day or 2 when I no longer feel that moisture as a cooling sensation on my fingers..

At that time I add about 2/3 of a gallon, and a bit more if I think I've let the medium get dry beyond that preferred point.

That's simply my method; not cast in stone, or what another might advise.

And the base of my mix is made up of equal parts of Sunshine Mix #4 Advanced Organic (with some wetting agent/moisture retention aggregate in it) and BX Pro-Mix, with lots of volcanic pumice, a bit of perlite, a fair bit of vermiculite, and a small bit of zeolite. There's lots else in there, by way of organic amendments, as well.

I've been doing some research on leaching fractions but struggling to decipher the equation and use it for my plants.

 

[AliceDAnon]

Day 61

Continuing to make progress. Plant 2 still shows signs of deficiency. It has started displaying rapidly yellowing leaves that fall off of the plant this week. Overall bud health remains strong.

Some nice fruity aromas starting to develop.