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Air cooled lights: the right way
- Thread starter badmf
- Start date
G
Guest
Nice never thought of hooking up some speed controls . Yeah we have had some 100 days of below freezing so gets nippy up here. Plants like it though. Let us know how you set it up and how it works for you. Good Luck Jubei
G
Guest
Oh yEAh for sure you will have to reconfigure or add something to the setup. I have central air so i pipe it into the growroom. Hope that will help a lil bit. Good luck Jubei
D
DB2004
Another important factor with air cooled lights is thermal protection. If the inline fan ever fails, that bulb will heat up in excess of 150 degree Celcius (250F). I build custom thermal shutdowns that use a digital Ranco ETC-111 with four probes, one probe for one air cooled light (total four lights). If any of the fans fail, the power will be shut off to the four ballasts powering the lights and a push-to-reset breaker must be reset to turn power back on. If you'd like to know more, send me PM.....
Best Regardz
DB2004
Best Regardz
DB2004
V
vhGhost
great info guys, i enjoy reading informative threads like this.
wonder what you guys have to say about my new setup.
i have 1 669cfm ellicit inline fan, 4 1000w's, and 4 silverstar hoods.
i plan on running these hoods in a 4x12x6'(tall) area and will have cold air straight from outside through a window. i'm planning on building a box around this window with a 6' takeoff point. the distance between the window and the first hood is no longer than 2', and the same goes for the fan( which i want to keep outside of the room for added temp control) this will all be 6" ducting with insullation.
just wanted to know what you guys thought about this! i figure with the cold winter(-10degrees@least to -30 sometimes) i shouldn't have trouble keeping the lights cool( or maybe to cool) and any thoughts on how a box should be built for around the window( insulation/filtration so i don't have to constantly clean the glass and the bulbs.
thnx for all the great info again!
wonder what you guys have to say about my new setup.
i have 1 669cfm ellicit inline fan, 4 1000w's, and 4 silverstar hoods.
i plan on running these hoods in a 4x12x6'(tall) area and will have cold air straight from outside through a window. i'm planning on building a box around this window with a 6' takeoff point. the distance between the window and the first hood is no longer than 2', and the same goes for the fan( which i want to keep outside of the room for added temp control) this will all be 6" ducting with insullation.
just wanted to know what you guys thought about this! i figure with the cold winter(-10degrees@least to -30 sometimes) i shouldn't have trouble keeping the lights cool( or maybe to cool) and any thoughts on how a box should be built for around the window( insulation/filtration so i don't have to constantly clean the glass and the bulbs.
thnx for all the great info again!
Budweiser13
Active member
Great Topic, here is a link hope it is ok to post it has some good info..
http://www.hydroponics.net/learn/Exhaust-Blowers.asp ....this should be a sticky
http://www.hydroponics.net/learn/Exhaust-Blowers.asp ....this should be a sticky
V
vhGhost
bump, bump
Howdy yall! Good to see someone gleaned something out of this. vhGhost, I have run four 1k's(had 4-465 Daytons) and vented the heat output into my house, also in a winter climate. It added a sufficient amount of heat enough to keep my energy bill well in check. I do however believe you need more fans as you will be removing heat from one and it goes to the next... This may not be as much an issue with cold intake air but come Summer uhh ohh! In summer conditions I am using an Elicent like you're using (636cfm)but on "each" light!
G
Guest
tuttlebudd
Member
NICE....
thescissors
Member
I for one refuse to use glass sheilds between my bulbs and the plants due to the fact that glass (ANY glass!) BLOCKS UV LIGHT!!! and UV is (probably) helpful in producing THC... remember hindu kush, columbian, and a lot of other superpotent landrace strains come from areas where UV light is very abundant (high altitudes and equatorial locations)... Just a preference for me, but i am running a thousand watt cabinet (400+400 for flower and 200 for veg) with NO glass in it (other than the bulbs themselves!) 
:wink: 
(forgive the desk lamp and other random sh*t in this pic... i was cloning that night!!
:wink: 
(forgive the desk lamp and other random sh*t in this pic... i was cloning that night!!
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G
Guest
hoping you guys like my set up this is my first grow doing it this way got some more work but its a start
thescissors
Member
Bramski said:
You may not of noticed a difference, and i admit i have no "science" on it, but UV energy is still energy, and I want it all going into the plants. MH bulbs are particularly rich in UV, HPSes less so, so any way to minimize the minimization of UV coming out of the bulb is what i am after. One might argue, rightly so, that the cooltubes let you bring the remaining light energy that much closer to the bulbs, but all of life is a compromize and this is my path (for now!) When my plants are taller and starting to get burned by my naked bulbs i might change my mind! (or tie them down...
) 
Joe A. Grower
Active member
I've never bought the whole "UV makes more resin" theory. I've grown incredibly stoney, resinous shit using HPS with no supplemental UV. If UV is necessary for high resin production, someone forget to tell MY girls. :wink:
Some would say, "they make resin without UV, but they make more resin with UV!" I don't buy that either. Even a bare MH bulb doesn't have a fraction of the UV that natural sunlight puts out. Putting it behind glass makes the UV go from "miniscule" to "nonexistant." I add to that the fact that the outdoor herb I've smoked, which got TONS of good ol' UV-rich Cali sunshine, was not really any more powerful than the indoor that I've grown. If UV makes more resin, I've never it seen proven conclusively.
Frankly, I think the whole theory is just more stoner bullshit.
Some would say, "they make resin without UV, but they make more resin with UV!" I don't buy that either. Even a bare MH bulb doesn't have a fraction of the UV that natural sunlight puts out. Putting it behind glass makes the UV go from "miniscule" to "nonexistant." I add to that the fact that the outdoor herb I've smoked, which got TONS of good ol' UV-rich Cali sunshine, was not really any more powerful than the indoor that I've grown. If UV makes more resin, I've never it seen proven conclusively.
Frankly, I think the whole theory is just more stoner bullshit.
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overgrow00
Member
Is it still benefitial, heat wise, to run air cooled hoods if you leave the opposite side open?
I'm thinking about upgrading to a 4x8x7 tent using 2 1000's. I currently have a 6 inch ellicent that i use and wanted to just use that. I can just run it normaly or i can run air cooled hoods in a line with the last flange open.
Would it make a decent enough difference to make it worth the effort used to clean the glass as often as i would?
I'm thinking about upgrading to a 4x8x7 tent using 2 1000's. I currently have a 6 inch ellicent that i use and wanted to just use that. I can just run it normaly or i can run air cooled hoods in a line with the last flange open.
Would it make a decent enough difference to make it worth the effort used to clean the glass as often as i would?
2buds
Active member
I would think so. If you can lay your hand on your hoods and they are cool to the touch then you have eliminated the heat radiating form the sheet metal, now if you can figure out how to get rid of the heat radiated through the glass form the light, that would be a nice touch. I assume your fan is pulling through the hoods and exhausting outside your grow. Remember if you use co2 enrichment then you will need a sealed intake exhaust system so you don't waste you co2.
Peace,
2buds
Peace,
2buds
