Well I do hydro outside also with my legal veggies. One summer I tried a fogger and what I went with was one of the biggest foggers I could find. I believe it had like 4 ultrasonic foggers in it. My problem was I used a pretty deep/tall rubbermaid for the sump and the fog just wouldn't make it all the way to the top (root zone) It still worked ok but my huge fogger drastically heated up the sump. I had to switch it out for aero so I didn't get alot of time to mess with it. I sure would like to piddle with it again though and I have seen amazing results with them. I got pics but it's on a different comp.
Cool, thanks for the reply, The fog wants to loom just above the water without some kind of influence, create a small amount of positive pressure in the sump and the fog will be forced to exit via the net pots.
I switched because I am learning that a little stretch is not a problem when you have a screen to control it. I have been playing around with light spectrum influence on MJ for a long time and if you really want to keep them short, a 10,000k reef bulb will amaze you. I dropped the spectrum to 4100 so I could allow a little more stretch and fill that far edges of the screen.Why did you switch to 4100k? What other bulbs do you have in there? I'm sure you mentioned earlier if, but are you still veging or are you flowering? One last question, where did you get that acrylic glue, I found nothing similar at the HD/Lowes. BTW Awesome grow.
StealthDragon, Pleasure to have you aboard!!
Hey disfunktional, I think I can help out here. The radiator in the link is awesome, far superior to mine and I just might buy one. The pump you linked couldn't be a worse choice because it wouldn't even work and it's five times what the proper pump costs. That pump is for a closed loop cooling system because when you cool computers there is no sump. You need a submersable pump like the kind you use in fish tanks. These pumps can be had for under $20 and can handle any nutes you throw at them. Another important note cooling a sump with a radiator is that GPH rating on the pump has a huge influence on how well that radiator cools. It's best to have a slow flow through the radiator to increase the contact time with the cooling fins and the less wattage the pump the better because it's a heater too. I use a 5w pump that flows 80GPH and it seems to be the sweet spot. That radiator you linked would likely take a 10w pump to reach ideal flow. Mounting the radiator in front of the intake fans might seem like a good idea but you would also be sending the sump heat straight into the canopy, I would keep it seperate.hey Aerohead iv got a few questions about your radiator setup. i found a radiator here and a pump here. would this work for cooling? i noticed in the pump specs that it said "No maintenance when used with de-mineralized water, and anti-fungal additives" IYO would i have any problems with running nutes through it? and i was wondering where you found your radiator? iv searched high and low and can not find an aluminum radiator just 1" thick. i was brainstorming and thought of altering Scrubninjas light trap to accomodate a radiator so that i could cool it with intake air. and i realy need a radiator around 1" thick to keep the same dimensions of the light trap. im already cutting 3"s out of 18" for the intake and im trying to keep from takeing up anymore room. thanx for ahead of time for any advice or opinions.
Yes those are good reasons! The higher kelvin the bulb the less lumens but the lumen loss is minimal and not enough to overpower the gains from the spectral advantage. I have a few spares in 6700k and 10000k, I chose the 4100 to gain a little stretch to fill the far corners of the screen.Not sure as to why, but my guess is that it might have had something to with the comments and grow results concerning 4100k PL-L bulbs as noted here - especially when contrasted to the vastly cheaper cost of 4100k vs. 5500k or 6700k Pl-L bulbs.
And if it didn't ? Well - those are still good reasons
Here is the screen today, They are ready to be tucked under again. I am finding that if I let them grow a little higher above the screen before I route them, it's easier to decide which direction to work them through the screen to keep an even fill.