Advancing Eco Agriculture, Product Science

[redlaser]

$600 doesn't seem like much, the ones I was looking at after you peaked my interest were in the thousands... My little toy costs more than that....

Pesticides & insecticides - yuck.... Too bad the youngins don't get that proper fertilization, some Teas and a little Hort oil as part of a IPM is all you really need, anymore, well.....

I envy the laws; the weather and climate even more out west. What I don't envy is the piss poor habits, bug outbreaks, terrible AG practices, overuse of many systemic pest/insecticides - shit no one should be eating or smoking, ever. Yet they do and love it..... Not really surprising when you watch what most people eat and where it comes from....

Reading accounts of people claiming to walk into dispensaries and smelling chem / pesticides... is that really true, seems far fetched?

Grow your own Food, smoke, shit, everything you can - it's only going to get worse BF better and food isn't getting cheaper when there's 15B people vs 8B which probably only going to take a few decades for worlds pop to double, yet again...

I think farming and farmers, perhaps more the home small farmer will become more prevalent again and respected due to this, if not out of want but more out of need, if you like quality that's for sure as its already the case...

oh, btw - there's a downside to these sprayers as well - they do coat everything they touch well, so that doesn't mean just plants.... I hate scrubbing / cleaning walls and nooks & crannies in GH's etc - this thing seemingly would make that job that much more difficult - outside who cares

I like horticultural oil as a tool but have found at even the lowest recommended rate can cause issues on cannabis.
Doesn’t kill the plant, just sets it back 2-3 weeks to regenerate new growth. Newest growth being affected of course.
Lately I’ve been trying sulphur as an alternative, still assessing effectiveness.
Actually don’t have huge issues with pest or disease, but will have a plant that has 2-5% of its leaves with mites or aphids. The good part is it stays localized for the most part for the life of the plant.
Seems lately most of my growing is done in newly created mixes due to moving a lot, so balanced soil is still a work in progress.

 

[led05]

I like horticultural oil as a tool but have found at even the lowest recommended rate can cause issues on cannabis.
Doesn’t kill the plant, just sets it back 2-3 weeks to regenerate new growth. Newest growth being affected of course.
Lately I’ve been trying sulphur as an alternative, still assessing effectiveness.
Actually don’t have huge issues with pest or disease, but will have a plant that has 2-5% of its leaves with mites or aphids. The good part is it stays localized for the most part for the life of the plant.
Seems lately most of my growing is done in newly created mixes due to moving a lot, so balanced soil is still a work in progress.

I'm assuming we're talking outdoors here...

Try this...when you spray for foliar, every-time, use like 1/8th or 1/6th of what it tells you on the Hort oil to use as minimum - mix it with your foliar ferts as preventative - Hort Oil and Sulfates don't play well together btw (just remembered that - supposed to be spaced out 1 or 2 weeks or something like that)

I'm guessing you'll like what you find (works on all plants), it won't hurt your plant / burn it and the oil acts as a surfacant too, cleans your leaves and all as well - the more pressure and finer bead you can get is of course also beneficial.

 

[led05]

It's crazy how much these plants eat when things are pumping.

are you feeding equatorial / NLD heavy Dom varieties this way as well or are you guys focused on the hybrids / WLD dom?

2 EC every feed sounds high for NLD, especially in a drier enviro that doesn't get much natural rain?

 

[jidoka]

If I knew what nld or wld is I might could answer that.

Outdoors I use soil. Soil ec gets no mo than 0.7. Different thing entirely

 

[calisun]

NLD =narrow-leaflet drug biotype
WLD=wide-leaflet drug biotype
Fancy for indica or sativa or the orgin of where it was it spent most of its life and as far as I know. Could be more to it.

 

[led05]

NLD =narrow-leaflet drug biotype
WLD=wide-leaflet drug biotype
Fancy for indica or sativa or the orgin of where it was it spent most of its life and as far as I know. Could be more to it.

Fancy.... or based on decades of scientific studies and thousands of years of origin, or so they say..... It's proper nomenclature and if folks are going to mock bro science (which I do) for certain aspects, they should for all and learn proper. If you read up you'll realize it's a much better and thorough classification system and based upon study

I also love Micro-focused self taught farmers who have tons to share and hopefully continue to

 

[jidoka]

Self taught, that’s me. What school taught you that?

 

[EasyGoing]

are you feeding equatorial / NLD heavy Dom varieties this way as well or are you guys focused on the hybrids / WLD dom?

2 EC every feed sounds high for NLD, especially in a drier enviro that doesn't get much natural rain?

Pretty much everything. I have been doing things a bit different than most folks. I try to pay attention to the EC levels in the soil mainly. Keep a balanced feed, and keep bumping it up until my soil reads .7-1.5 ec. I have pushed higher as well. I am growing a strain called Jelly Roll right now. It has some sour d, but also has purple and Afghani genetics. That strain is a hog!

 

[led05]

Pretty much everything. I have been doing things a bit different than most folks. I try to pay attention to the EC levels in the soil mainly. Keep a balanced feed, and keep bumping it up until my soil reads .7-1.5 ec. I have pushed higher as well. I am growing a strain called Jelly Roll right now. It has some sour d, but also has purple and Afghani genetics. That strain is a hog!

I've got some sour D from early 2000's upstate style, I believe it's best of what the original had, too stinky for me so just have F1 and 2's of it, waiting......

I like you're EC, I also like constant EC for every watering, I shoot for EXACTLY the same range (1.5 being max, ever and try and hit closer to 1, every-time), that's interesting actually we shoot for identical EC. I only base my decisions on what I find personally here, always, so it's intriguing to me it's similar there also; assuming we have vastly different soil bases which I'm certain we do.

Constant 400-750 ppm or .8-1.5 EC IMO is SPOT on for healthy soil & living mixes

 

[led05]

Self taught, that’s me. What school taught you that?

The same one, I like your post.. But I'm also a well educated guy, just different arenas and I believe in it, in general.....

I think the ability to learn, think practically and most importantly hands on is what make a farmer, anything in this life

 

[jidoka]

Pretty much everything. I have been doing things a bit different than most folks. I try to pay attention to the EC levels in the soil mainly. Keep a balanced feed, and keep bumping it up until my soil reads .7-1.5 ec. I have pushed higher as well. I am growing a strain called Jelly Roll right now. It has some sour d, but also has purple and Afghani genetics. That strain is a hog!

Easy...if balanced feed is 1-2-1 what is your Ca?

 

[growingcrazy]

Curious also...^

Soil EC meter of choice? I think it was covered before...

 

[EasyGoing]

Start off at 85% ca and 4%k.

Water and top dress with 1-2-1, with a top dress of 1 cup per gypsum per yard every third, forth week. Indoors, that means no real gypsum until 10 days before flower. I top dress with 4-8-4 bulb food from Down to earth, mixed 50/50 with EWC which helps with bumping the K up during veg, shooting for 8% before the Ca bump. Then I liquid feed a 1-2-1, and the 2 comes from liquid bone meal, which helps keep my Ca up. 10 days before flower I give two - three healthy doses of gypsum, totaling 1 cup per yard ish. Then it's getting the K back to 8% by end of grow.

Seems to be doing a heck of a job for me. I like having a base, with the 1-2-1. Then knowing you need that extra Ca going into flower really creates healthy, hungry plants. Easy to move around your numbers with Gypsum too. I know you said it isn't consistent for you, but in my grows it has been the answer. High Mg and bicarbonates in my water, gypsum is my friend.

 

[EasyGoing]

Soil meter of choice is some strange European country, that took forever to get me the meter. I think it took 5 weeks. Slow has the contact if anybody needs it. It has changed my growing ability. First thing I do when I go to a new garden, probe the soil. Shows me in seconds where people stand. Can't tell you how many gardens have zero connectivity. People always say, "man I loaded up that soil, she is good to go till harvest." Then I probe it and it reads zero. Then I probe the seemingly dead native clay soil, and the ec jumps. That blows people away......... The soil they paid big bucks for, is already out of juice. Then flower comes. Then the bugs come. Same with rookie garners every single year.

 

[jidoka]

Does that dte bulb meal have 2% mg in it?

 

[EasyGoing]

sure does. Hence the gypsum. Looking for alternatives, or designing my own through a major nutrient company. Somebody I know might be working on this...........Would love to minimize the Mg, and Fe.


If you find something better, let me know.

 

[led05]

sure does. Hence the gypsum. Looking for alternatives, or designing my own through a major nutrient company. Somebody I know might be working on this...........Would love to minimize the Mg, and Fe.


If you find something better, let me know.

I don't think Fert companies are intentionally adding the Fe & Mg it just seems to come along for the ride in many things mined, separating it out or searching for lower is certainly a good thing !

How much did your soil meter cost you, can you find out the brand or does Mike need to order for you type of thing?

Thanks

 

[jidoka]

I have not found one. I want to use Perfect Blend Biotic but the P is lower than I want and I cannot figure out how to add more without additional Ca other than P Acid which I don't want to do outdoors.

The Nectar For the Gods 2-5-2 looks OK but the price is just stupid. I think with a good sized brewer you could make something similar yourownself though. I would probably switch soft rock for bone meal and include Bio Phos as part of my microbe load though. When you get into stabilizing it for bottles is when you get into the non organic stuff.

I get the feeling 2-5-2-7 would be pretty awesome. Especially if it were biotic. Put that on top of a balanced soil to begin with for EC control

And I got no problem with gypsum in soil. I just found indo coco foliar gives me much more precise control is all.

 

[jidoka]

I don't think Fert companies are intentionally adding the Fe & Mg it just seems to come along for the ride in many things mined, separating it out or searching for lower is certainly a good thing !

How much did your soil meter cost you, can you find out the brand or does Mike need to order for you type of thing?

Thanks

one of the ingredients is sul-po-mag, could have used k sulfate instead.

 

[growingcrazy]

Doka, Any experience with gelatin?

Been playing around with gelatin and CaCO3...

I know, weird question, right...