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ACE - experimental micro sativas

Waldgeist

Active member
G`day Waldi

That`s an interesting concept .
I learnt to fertilise trees at the width of the branches . The so called " drip line ." Where rain and dew drip off the branch tips onto the ground below . That would be an active area for microbes I suspect ?

I think in general the active area for microbes around the tree must be actually the area from those 'dripping branches' you mentioned towards the stem of the tree. This area stays like it is(unflushed from rains, protected by foliage) and so funghi and microbes can do their work uninterrupted. Roots that are designed for water and nutrient uptake stay in the mentioned 'drip line', roots that are designed for gas exchange stay in the more dry area around the stem- where the funghi tend them. imho

I used the small pot to reduce branching theory from the Ultimate Sativa thread, for a SOG style Sativa grow with good results . It seems we can get away with a much smaller volume of coco than soil .
Running cuts is a little different than from seed . The clones generally have less Apical Dominance .

Yes, coco provides more aeration at the point of total saturation.
This allows a faster uptake of nutrient solution in the same time as compared to a soil type media -> faster growth rate, more mass in same container size like all hydroponic media/grow styles when done right.
Now add the fact of the greater root vigor of sativa dominant strains throughout flowering, the tree 'dripping line' theory designed to like: above(aeration, microbes) and below (roots for water/nute uptake) in a container, bit vermiculite as a nute buffer - and voila:

the mafia style subirrigation for pure sativas in high density sog :biggrin:

:tiphat:


Thanks for sharin

EB .

I am really enjoying this conversation. From my experience apical dominance is related to many other factors including environmental and sibling/related plant proximity and also generational epigenetic factors. If the plants are planted in in close proximity to related plants they tend to grow more naturally columnal. If grown next to an unrelated plant they tend to bush and even compete more for nutrients.

I have seen it where plants of same line grow much differently (tested outdoor only) dependant on the plant next to it in high concentration tropical environment. In the old days we would cluster plants and they would grow columnal however with the introduction of non native strains they would bush over several generations(this is direct in soil planting) I am new to indoor growing so not much experience indoors so I am not sure how this applies to the indoor environment.

Bottom line Wald, do you think if we grow from seed for 3-4 generations in width controlled pots would that structure epigenetically transfer to following generations facilitating natural columnal growth? or will the plants acclimatize in unexpected ways and modify other factors related to growth also such as bud density etc.

Hey man your very welcome here:biggrin:
Think we'll have to try to find it out, what strain would you suggest for a project like that? a very tropical untameable sativa? I would be also intrested to reduce the dark period that triggers flowering outdoors in the same approach, indoors;)

:tiphat:
 

padrone

Member
Guatemala

Guatemala

Sounds good Wald, I agree, lets do it. I am ordering some ace guatemala seeing that is is mostly an outdoor strain it should be a challenge. My next 12/12 cycle is in november so I will dedicate 5 spaces to the Guatemala from seed. Lets see how it goes.
 

b0nZai.b0b

Well-known member
Veteran
ya waldgeist is the ultimative super micro grower, not even an experimental status anymore zapfol goes on patent when?
i need the recepture, my cab is rly small i could need some hints and tricky icky ickys for growing killer kolben the micro stylee.
 

Waldgeist

Active member
picture.php


lets play last plant standing, 90%+rh high; 6°C low:

AM 1 - ok

AM 3 - bit mold

Woodmaster/AM 4 - ok

AM 5 - ok , cold damage

Z 1 - mold, cold damage

Z 2 - ok , cold damage

Z 4 - ok

Z 5 - mold

Z 6 - ok, cold damage

Malawi - no onset, ok

fatty bubba - ok

zamal hash - ok

PHT 2 + 3 - ok

panama 3 - ok

spA, spB - ok


AM 3:

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WoodMaster:

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orfeas

Well-known member
Veteran
That's a beautiful neat congregation you've got there, boy!

Mould, I hear? What kind might that be?

6 degrees? Brrrr!!! Have you already started wearing your union suit?:laughing:

:tiphat:Orfeas
 

Waldgeist

Active member
thanks man!

Botrytis cinerea, of course:puke:

starting to eat especially Z#1(pussies:biggrin:) cute little undeveloped heads, I play my mind to cut her out of the plantation before she gets a spore breeding spot, dont have expected that like this with her:biggrin:

i miss some autumn winds, its very stagnant and just cold and wet



yeah, i prefer a MerinoWool product here for comfort;)

:tiphat:
 

orfeas

Well-known member
Veteran
B c, eh? That bloody infamous micro "villain"!

Getting it done with is what I would promptly do, were I in your shoes. In this case the faster the better would be exactly suitable since stagnation can make things worst pretty fast...
I keep snipping moulded bud off my Nepjam almost every morning, what a nuisance!

A for the weather, einfach Pech gehabt living that north! A friend of mine in Schwarzwald has been telling of sunny days with temps aroun 24 degrees.
I strongly recommend moving your congregation down there!:laughing:

:tiphat:Orfeas

P.S. Merino, eh! Of course, only the best...
 

Waldgeist

Active member
ja, im waiting for this fuckin weather forecast come true, loool.
I think those plants did not recieve more than 2 weeks of sunny weather at all, when I move south bro:biggrin:I'll move waaay south:biggrin:

I think its now not displaying their general mold resistance, more their cold resistance that leads to mold in my case,
jaja walds theories:biggrin:

:tiphat:
 

Waldgeist

Active member
I let it sit now in passive nutrient solution, so it gets watered all the time without work.:biggrin:
the last 'active stage' was 4 times per day i think, its ok now - her uptake is fast enough to go passive.


:tiphat:
 

Waldgeist

Active member
OK, pussy(Z#1) is out of selection.:whiteflag:

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all preflowers start to rot then it jumps on the stalk,
now even PM ...

CUUUUUT!
 

therevverend

Well-known member
Veteran
Wish I could smell the Woodmaster! I think those hazes will need to move indoors after a couple weeks. Panama might make it..
Found my first bud rot today. Leda Uno with huge colas still a couple weeks away. This time of year the colas get sogged out. I staked it up so the wind can dry it off. Maybe.
Compared to other growers in my area I have less grey mold. Used epsom salts in my mix. I've heard the chemistry of your mix can effect the PH which effects the mold. Any ideas?
 

orfeas

Well-known member
Veteran
Certain doctors use very alkaline solutions such as sodium bicarbonate to treat cancer believing that cancer cells can't thrive in an alkaline environment.
The same principle applies to the use of milk-dilution sprays against bud mould.

Hope it helps...

:tiphat:Orfeas
 

rik78

Member
Veteran
Hey Waldi

one quiestion, do you use any root stimulator or all just natural?
EDIT: another question, was it is "Zapfol B"?

insane pics!!!

hat off!

good smokes!
 
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