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a wicked pulse
- Thread starter delta9nxs
- Start date
D
DHF
Yes.....Let`s see some "sideways" canopy management with limbs from each plant tied and stacked over and under the ones beside em ........
You guys......
......
Peace....DHF.....
......
You guys......
......Peace....DHF.....
......i obviously don't know wtf to call it.
but it should have been called this!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WHcQ5wRZ9iU
well, i screwed up and put up the wrong video! here is the one i wanted but i think i like the studio version better musically.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-E9P_2_Fx3Y
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“the material growing off the screen should be 6-8" thick.”
“interspace the laterals and try and finish with each lateral about 7" deep.”
what are the reasons we want to suppress stretch?
In a horizontal situation we do it to keep the tops and the rest of the plant all within a reasonable depth of field.
In a vertical situation it is done to keep the plant from growing past the sweet area of the bulbs.
So I was thinking, in a vertical wall with a finite top but virtually no horizontal limitations except on the end four plants, and only the outside or end side of those, why is stretch even to be considered?
I don't think we want to limit stretch during the vegetative, mass building stage. In a normal horizontal scrog we fill the screen 2/3 or so and then flip so we don't outgrow the screen.
In this scenario I think we should fill the screen entirely during veg, disregarding stretch within reason, then flip and overlap.
In my previous room I was working with a couple of plants just before I tore everything down that were trained flat and split open severely. The small shoots in the area that would have normally been near the main stem did not just produce buds, they grew an amazing 14-16 inches or more and had multiple bud sites. Produced real weight.
So I think what we are going to need here is two screens. A large mesh (6”?) rigid screen behind the plants to tie back to. And a smaller, but not too small, net type screen in front to rest branches on. About a foot between them.
The rear screen should be at or near the back edge of the buckets with the plants pulled back to them and the front one should be hung at the front edge. Or something like that.
The “z” area, when viewed from the side, would be about a foot thick and four feet high after stretch with very little material left in it. This would also present the rear of the bud wall to any supplemental lighting, if you have any. Maybe flo's.
I was thinking about why 6500k bulbs produce compact vegetative growth and started looking at spectral distribution graphs again.
It's not the intensity that does it on small plants so much as the spectrum. The charts show that both the 6500k and the 5000k bulbs produce very little far red.
To have a ratio you must first have two components.
The research shows that it is not the lack of red so much as the presence of far red that causes the Phyb responses.
I spent most of yesterday installing the co2 system. I got it all hooked up and turned the controller on. I thought there would be a glitch of some kind and I would have to f**k with it to get it right but it clicked and fired on the first attempt.
Water cooled is the way to go. It took a little less than a 5 minute burn to get the co2 up to 1550 ppm. The room was at 75 when the test started and was at 75 when it finished. Rh went from 61% to 64% by the end of the burn and then went back to 61% almost immediately. This was with no lights and one ac running in mid afternoon with outside temps in the 95-96 range.
The water in the cooling drum (44 gal brute) got too hot for comfort at the top where the return line comes in but you could stand it. When you put your hand in deeper it cooled off noticeably. I'll put a thermometer in it later.
I think a larger pool would be better.
In the instruction video for the hydrogen pro they show a flotec pump they want you to buy. It is rated for 15 ft of lift. They say flow rate is not important as long as it has at least a 15' lift rating.
Well, I already have 2 950 mag drives and the 950 is rated for 14 ft of lift so I threw it on and it worked fine, in case anyone wants to know. I also hooked two of them up simultaneously to see if I could get more flow and I could not. There is some kind of volume limiting device that will only allow it to flow a certain amount but there must be a pressure actuated switch somewhere. It will probably cause premature pump failure.
Still finishing little detail shit but getting close. I had to take two days off from construction this week for medical and family reasons but i'm back at it now.
I'll try to get more pics up later
d9
“interspace the laterals and try and finish with each lateral about 7" deep.”
what are the reasons we want to suppress stretch?
In a horizontal situation we do it to keep the tops and the rest of the plant all within a reasonable depth of field.
In a vertical situation it is done to keep the plant from growing past the sweet area of the bulbs.
So I was thinking, in a vertical wall with a finite top but virtually no horizontal limitations except on the end four plants, and only the outside or end side of those, why is stretch even to be considered?
I don't think we want to limit stretch during the vegetative, mass building stage. In a normal horizontal scrog we fill the screen 2/3 or so and then flip so we don't outgrow the screen.
In this scenario I think we should fill the screen entirely during veg, disregarding stretch within reason, then flip and overlap.
In my previous room I was working with a couple of plants just before I tore everything down that were trained flat and split open severely. The small shoots in the area that would have normally been near the main stem did not just produce buds, they grew an amazing 14-16 inches or more and had multiple bud sites. Produced real weight.
So I think what we are going to need here is two screens. A large mesh (6”?) rigid screen behind the plants to tie back to. And a smaller, but not too small, net type screen in front to rest branches on. About a foot between them.
The rear screen should be at or near the back edge of the buckets with the plants pulled back to them and the front one should be hung at the front edge. Or something like that.
The “z” area, when viewed from the side, would be about a foot thick and four feet high after stretch with very little material left in it. This would also present the rear of the bud wall to any supplemental lighting, if you have any. Maybe flo's.
I was thinking about why 6500k bulbs produce compact vegetative growth and started looking at spectral distribution graphs again.
It's not the intensity that does it on small plants so much as the spectrum. The charts show that both the 6500k and the 5000k bulbs produce very little far red.
To have a ratio you must first have two components.
The research shows that it is not the lack of red so much as the presence of far red that causes the Phyb responses.
I spent most of yesterday installing the co2 system. I got it all hooked up and turned the controller on. I thought there would be a glitch of some kind and I would have to f**k with it to get it right but it clicked and fired on the first attempt.
Water cooled is the way to go. It took a little less than a 5 minute burn to get the co2 up to 1550 ppm. The room was at 75 when the test started and was at 75 when it finished. Rh went from 61% to 64% by the end of the burn and then went back to 61% almost immediately. This was with no lights and one ac running in mid afternoon with outside temps in the 95-96 range.
The water in the cooling drum (44 gal brute) got too hot for comfort at the top where the return line comes in but you could stand it. When you put your hand in deeper it cooled off noticeably. I'll put a thermometer in it later.
I think a larger pool would be better.
In the instruction video for the hydrogen pro they show a flotec pump they want you to buy. It is rated for 15 ft of lift. They say flow rate is not important as long as it has at least a 15' lift rating.
Well, I already have 2 950 mag drives and the 950 is rated for 14 ft of lift so I threw it on and it worked fine, in case anyone wants to know. I also hooked two of them up simultaneously to see if I could get more flow and I could not. There is some kind of volume limiting device that will only allow it to flow a certain amount but there must be a pressure actuated switch somewhere. It will probably cause premature pump failure.
Still finishing little detail shit but getting close. I had to take two days off from construction this week for medical and family reasons but i'm back at it now.
I'll try to get more pics up later
d9
village green
Member
You guys are the ones they're talking about when some DEA agent is being interviewed and expresses grudging admiration for innovation. Just wanted to chime in and say how exciting it is to see DHF and Delta9 bouncing ideas off each other. Oh, the thousands of hours I've spent reading stuff from you two...going back also to Krusty, So Quick and some Australian dude interested in growing enough hemp so he could build a boat,sail it to Israel and kill Barbara Streisand LOL
We may not post or have big grows but there are a bunch of us out here who benefit from your hard work and experimentation.
We may not post or have big grows but there are a bunch of us out here who benefit from your hard work and experimentation.
stagehand099
Member
Couldn't agree more with this. D9 and lots of other folks here keep me busy thinking about improvements in my much more modest setup.
stagehand
hi, thanks for the kind words!
but, "hard work and experimentation" is more like "work real slow while higher than snoop dogg" and "throw a bunch of shit on the wall and hope some of it sticks."
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the only thing that needs to be explained here is the latex tubing connector. since i am using 3/8" Outside Diameter poly tubing i use 5/16" Inside Diameter black latex tubing to connect it to the tire valve. this is the rig for the "high flow" version.
if you are using the "low flow" version with the 1/4" Outside Diameter drip line from lowes you will buy the 3/16" Inside Diameter black latex tubing.
in both cases you can cut 3" sections so 4 per foot of tubing. google "5/16" or 3/16" black latex tubing" for vendors. fishing and diving supply sites. it is used to make lures and for spear gun rubber.
if you are using the "low flow" version with the 1/4" Outside Diameter drip line from lowes you will buy the 3/16" Inside Diameter black latex tubing.
in both cases you can cut 3" sections so 4 per foot of tubing. google "5/16" or 3/16" black latex tubing" for vendors. fishing and diving supply sites. it is used to make lures and for spear gun rubber.
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Hey, d9! It's looking Gooooood!
I've inadvertantly gotten to an interesting part of my grow. This week, I'm putting my 2 1/2 plants onto the front of vertical screens. My plan is to train the fans toward the rear of the screen and attach them together with 1000 pipe cleaners to make a network or lattice effect. Hope to give premium light to the budsights.
I'll use the "rear assault" pruning method.
I have a 1000w with air-cooled hood over the top in horizontal position. In the center, is a vertical 1000/600/400w dimable bulb.
As this project progresses, I'll give updates. Is it even possible to do what I want to do? I'll let you know about the labor aspect.
Gotta go to work. stay safe. bg
I've inadvertantly gotten to an interesting part of my grow. This week, I'm putting my 2 1/2 plants onto the front of vertical screens. My plan is to train the fans toward the rear of the screen and attach them together with 1000 pipe cleaners to make a network or lattice effect. Hope to give premium light to the budsights.
I'll use the "rear assault" pruning method.
I have a 1000w with air-cooled hood over the top in horizontal position. In the center, is a vertical 1000/600/400w dimable bulb.
As this project progresses, I'll give updates. Is it even possible to do what I want to do? I'll let you know about the labor aspect.
Gotta go to work. stay safe. bg
D
DHF
Talk about OCD......Bro.....Your attention to detail on the pump/feed manifold is like textbook shit....
Keep workin slow and stayin Snoop Dawg buzzed cuz yas got a knack fer it.......
Definitely intrigued....and I`ve seen some setups in my day......
Peace....DHF...........
Keep workin slow and stayin Snoop Dawg buzzed cuz yas got a knack fer it.......
Definitely intrigued....and I`ve seen some setups in my day......
Peace....DHF.....
......
250wscrogger
Active member
Amazing setup...
ok, here is what 3 50 lb bags of turface and a turface bag full of rice hulls looks like. 3/1 ratio which is for the "high flow" version. this will give an approx 35% air porosity, which is what you need for a large frequent pulse. if you are hand watering or dripping with blumats i would go to a less porous mix which will give you more water retention. say 4/1 ratio or even 5/1 depending. alternately you can use straight turface but it will need to be screened for fines to increase air porosity. this is enough volume to fill 13 three and a half gal buckets to the 3 gal point with some left over so i had to do two batches. i like to wet the turface well turning it over with a shovel. this washes it somewhat and makes the dry rice hulls mix evenly. after loading the entire bucket should be rinsed heavily and allowed to drain to remove as much dust as possible.
cheap fiberglass window screen. 36" x 84" on a roll at h.d.'s, lowes, or wally's. cut into 4" wide strips then a square piece whacked off the end. the long piece goes around the bottom inside against the holes to retain the medium and the small piece goes down the tailpiece. i don't know why the middle bucket pic is there.
cheap fiberglass window screen. 36" x 84" on a roll at h.d.'s, lowes, or wally's. cut into 4" wide strips then a square piece whacked off the end. the long piece goes around the bottom inside against the holes to retain the medium and the small piece goes down the tailpiece. i don't know why the middle bucket pic is there.
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this is an old style bucket with 60 3/8" holes in 12 equidistant rows of five. for those interested in root pruning this pattern is proven to stop root circling. the new pattern you have seen before here works just as well and is a whole lot faster to build. i have to use 9 of these on this grow as i'm running out of time. the tailpiece arrangement is standard on both.
the three buckets with lids drilled out are just temporary holders for the top buckets while they are being loaded and rinsed. you can't see it but there is a 3/4" hole at the bottom of each sidewall. a useful tool.
just showing the sub-irrigation and pulse lines installed. the loops allow the lateral movement i will need to adjust the plants to the lights. i still need to trim some of the ends to get them to feed right.
loaded. in the foreground you can see the new style plant buckets again.
the three buckets with lids drilled out are just temporary holders for the top buckets while they are being loaded and rinsed. you can't see it but there is a 3/4" hole at the bottom of each sidewall. a useful tool.
just showing the sub-irrigation and pulse lines installed. the loops allow the lateral movement i will need to adjust the plants to the lights. i still need to trim some of the ends to get them to feed right.
loaded. in the foreground you can see the new style plant buckets again.
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D
disciple
D
disciple
Ditto. I have been waiting to rebuild a set-up as I am sure I am going to want to copy your new pulse terminals after I see what you came up with.still won't lay the new pulse terminals on us eh?
(nice tan)
hey! i hope to transplant tomorrow. still have a bunch of little detail shit to do. but a lot of it can be finished after start up.
i think i'm going to need a picture to get what you are talking about.
later
Talk about OCD......Bro.....Your attention to detail on the pump/feed manifold is like textbook shit....
Keep workin slow and stayin Snoop Dawg buzzed cuz yas got a knack fer it.......
Definitely intrigued....and I`ve seen some setups in my day......
Peace....DHF.....
what you are seeing is the result of me swearing that if i ever got the room i would build something that was easy to work in. i got real tired of crawling around on my hands and knees on wet concrete just to work on plants.
dragging big plants in and out laying on their sides wrapped up in plastic like christmas trees on a lot.
i also want industrial reliability.
but thanks for noticing!
thank you and welcome!
