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A perfect cure every time

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
Hopefully I'll be on Mars with Elon by then.
I found this comment to be very cute. Nothing personal, it just reminds me of a conversation I had with my father when I was about 8 or 9.

Me: I want to be the first person to build a warp drive.
Pop: That would be pretty neat. Why a warp drive?
Me: So I can get as far away from this planet as I possibly can!
Pop: I can see how that would be a good goal, but I see a flaw.
Me: What's that?
Pop: When you get there, you will still be there.

Leave it to pop to bust my fantasy with a perfect chunk of reality. Smart guy. Glad I got to hang around with him for so long. :tiphat:
 

CannaRed

Cannabinerd
That was quick. Got my 49% Boveda packs in mail today.

Gonna try to use these to drop moisture down after the cure. I like it a little drier than 65%.

I let you know how it goes
 

Aspenou812

Well-known member
Veteran
Your 10 oz. aren't ruined..

Granted, it is pretty dry...It will grind easy and come out of your grinder easily...
The joints you roll will tend to spill a little out the ends as you roll...

But 52% is not ruined... It will still burn pretty well without being too harsh..

Of course, it will not cure anymore, and you need to be sure it does not dry out anymore or you will end end up with a lot of powdery dust shake...

For sure... Not much you can do now... IMHO... Bud at 55 -58% RH is prime bud to smoke... But the cure stops at 55% so Basicly the taste won't mellow and the flavors and smells have done all they will do..... 52 will smoke fine... May burn a little faster and your right past 52% its Shake City hope your ready for the next Dry and Cure.. I know it sucks to blow a RH mark seriously.... This kind of thing happens when you grow... Failure is the Best Teacher
 

Aspenou812

Well-known member
Veteran
Got my 49% Boveda packs in mail today. That was fast!

Going to try them out to lower moisture AFTER the cure. 65% is too wet for me. I'll let you know how it goes.

That's a good number for long term storage.. I would burp in a dryer RH Room like 45% RH for a few days to lower slowly and controlled... The packs are great at maintaining set points... The ones on the packs like 49% .... They don't move moisture out of materal as easily as they add moisture... So leave the packs sealed and drop the RH close to 49 say 50 to 55 then use them... Also for long term storage use a Mylar Bag with an oxygen absorber along with that pack... See what happens...
 

LostTribe

Well-known member
Premium user
So if if above 60% RH still needs to be burped. Below 58% is smokeable and below 55% is beyond cure, my hypothesis is that the prime RH to hold a sustained cure without burping would theoretically be above 58% but lower than 60% for optimal results.

Thoughts?

Best,
LT
 

Aspenou812

Well-known member
Veteran
So if if above 60% RH still needs to be burped. Below 58% is smokeable and below 55% is beyond cure, my hypothesis is that the prime RH to hold a sustained cure without burping would theoretically be above 58% but lower than 60% for optimal results.

Thoughts?

Best,
LT

Remember guys it depends on your goals and not only one end game... At 55 the cure has done what it will for the most part... I keep and store bud at 62% RH if its going to be used or moved soon... For smoking I will let it sit out on a table till it's crispy then jar it up... Those buds level out at about 56% th in that jar and smoke fucking perfect... But the longer you keep it mold free and safely above 55% RH it will cure ripen and mellow to a point... Then it will start breaking down... If you want to smoke your buds later like a year down the road... Hold them in a curing stage until you think they are perfect then store them as I mentioned above and thank me later... Its been my observation that a range is better to shoot rather than a hard number... for my curing range is 59-62 anything over 62 mold is problematic...
Smoking range is 54-56 above 56% and a my buds forget about it... The joint or cone won't smoke just gum up...
Long term I like 54% and an oxygen absorber... My year old flower stored in 7 mill Mylar bags is way way better than what is available to these clowns on the street... Also I don't freeze it... I store bud in a lockable industrial drink cooler like gas stations have... I have a link to the bags if anyone needs them
 

Aspenou812

Well-known member
Veteran
The limits on time bud can be stored depend on the strains... Some start to degrade faster than others.. So make the bags big enough to open and reseal if you catch it degrading smoke it or blast it... Then keep on smoking better than everyone else
 

Aspenou812

Well-known member
Veteran
Lmao and BTW... I do all of this with attention to detail... Visit your stored bud every 3 months in a climate controlled room then reseal it... I'm not a fan of packs.... But I do keep them on hand just in case
 

'Boogieman'

Well-known member
I bought mylar bags and my vacuum sealer is not hot enough to seal it or some shit really fucking annoyed here. Is it ok to add these oxygen absorbers and just use a clothes iron to seal these mylar bags?
 

Zeez

---------------->
ICMag Donor
FWIW I use big ball jars with hygrometers in each. I mix jars with low and high humidities to average them out and empty the jar to open air for drying increments. When the humidity is stable at 62 they get vacuum sealed and burped a few more times.
picture.php
 
Simon you are the fucking man and thanks so much for posting this method so long ago.
Been using it for years and just now truly understanding the physics. Came here to bring a little more science of why this works. We're actually measuring the "water activity" in the bud with this method.

from https://www.fda.gov/inspections-com...tion-technical-guides/water-activity-aw-foods:

"food of known moisture content is allowed to come to equilibrium with a small headspace in a tight enclosure and partial pressure of water activity is measured manometrically, or relative humidity is measured using a hyqrometer. Water activity is equal to equilibrium relative humidity divided by 100: (a w = ERH/100) where ERH is the equilibrium relative humidity (%). "




FWIW I use big ball jars with hygrometers in each. I mix jars with low and high humidities to average them out and empty the jar to open air for drying increments. When the humidity is stable at 62 they get vacuum sealed and burped a few more times.
View Image
Why vac if you're continuing to burp?
 
Also for long term storage use a Mylar Bag with an oxygen absorber along with that pack... See what happens...
I have been toying with the idea of using oxygen scavenger packs along with boost or boveda packs in a vac'd mason jar....any difference in results vs mylar bag? No worries about the scavenger and the humidity packs fighting each other?
 

Zeez

---------------->
ICMag Donor
Why vac if you're continuing to burp?

The amount of water in the jar depends on the amount of air. Less air means removing smaller increments of water with each burp. The last water to come out is from the thicker fibrous areas of the plant, so I believe that reducing the air pressure helps get to the equilibrium at the RH you are looking for quicker and more completely. At that stage and on, I think less exposure to air increases the longevity. Who knows, it's an easy additional step and I have some vintage jars that are still really good.
 

purplegaze

New member
Wow, thanks for the info. I'm a newish grower (on my second grow ) and have been using this guide for curing but I'm going to use your method when my buds are ready to harvest in a few weeks time. Thanks :)
 

Jellyfish

Invertebrata Inebriata
Veteran
FWIW I use big ball jars with hygrometers in each. I mix jars with low and high humidities to average them out and empty the jar to open air for drying increments. When the humidity is stable at 62 they get vacuum sealed and burped a few more times.
View Image


Look at them jars of weed!!!
 

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