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A Complete Guide to Topping, Training and Pruning

R

Rooster449

This is just a great post, Thank you so much from A new kid on the Block.

Rooster449
 

Hank Hemp

Active member
Veteran
Hard to learn

Hard to learn

You will have to put the plant into flowering in order for the most productive tops and branches to reveal themselves. You will also have to identify the growth that will become energy sinks. Any growth that you remove corresponds to a certain amount of energy that is lost. In order to minimize the loss, it's best to remove the less productive growth as soon as it is recognized.

What you really are looking for here is the middle road, or the perfect balance between the number of tops and yield.

I've been growing on and off for 20 some odd years and I have teach myself that every strain. Like your thread a bunch Kodiak. :2cents:
 

Nemesi5

Member
just wanna say thanks for this information kodiak. this answered alot of my questions and this is definitely one of those "refer back to" posts. thanks for taking the time and effort into putting this together =]

Nem
 

Cymbaline

New member
Excellent and timely guide. Thank you, Kodiak, and thank you, Moses224, for the fingernail clipper FIM tip... it's getting close to topping time and I'm going to be trying that out!
 

cueball93

Member
Dude this is completely and utterly AWESOME! U should wright a book or something!this has been sooooooo much help, AWESOME!
 

furley

Member
Thank you so much for this thread!

Should a clone that is fresh into an E/F system, but that has 2-3 nodes be topped? Or should it be allowed to settle fully? (Less than 5" tall each)
 

Kodiak

Mad Scientist
Veteran
Thanks guys, I appreciate it.

furley, I would allow the clone to settle before topping it. There's no hurry really, it might get stunted. You can top the plant once it starts growing again.
 

zenoonez

Active member
Veteran
is it ever too late to top a plant? i just entered flowering and am considering it

Not really much point once you are in flower, it would be less likely that they would establish separate growth tips that were very long. Now that being said, it does depend on the strain. As I see it, the only reason to do that sort of thing in flower is to prevent the plants from getting too tall. You could just supercrop if that was a problem.
 

Kodiak

Mad Scientist
Veteran
I agree with zenoonez,

I would not top a plant in bloom unless I had to. You can sometimes get away with topping the plant very early in flowering but generally you should have completed the training before you flip the switch. Most of the time it is not a very good idea to remove the main shoot if the plant has been vegged in the "christmas tree" shape.

Remember that you also have the option of bending the stem and tying it down without topping the plant.

If you bend the main stem or a branch so that the top node is situated lower than the other shoots, the plant will make them grow more rapidly and they will also increase in size.

It all depends on what you are growing, some strains do not like to be topped and produce the most bud when the main cola is left intact.

If you apply any kind of training during flowering, the plant might also take a bit longer to finish.

If you are unsure of how the plant will react, I think it's best to leave it alone.

You can always try a different approach next time round.


I hope that helped some.
 

mriko

Green Mujaheed
Veteran
Great information Kodiak, thanks for sharing !

Question : How many days should there be between topping & shifting to 12/12 ? I understand it differs from one strain to another, but would one week be enough ?

Irie !
 

Kodiak

Mad Scientist
Veteran
Hi mriko!

Like you said, the time differs from strain to strain and from individual to individual.

I think that one week is a bit short as the plant will take about a week to adjust to its new condition and if you flip the switch directly after, you might stress it out.

No need to hurry.

The way I see it, there is more work to be done on the plant before flowering.

Topping the plant is only the first step. You then have to allow the plant some time to adjust and grow.

By topping the plant you are actually shaping it into a bush, this takes time.

You should allow the plant to grow strong secondary branches before changing to 12/12.

Start by topping them and when the plants look nice and ready, flip the switch.


Training a plant is an ongoing project, there is always something to do, even in flowering.
 

JWP

Active member
Great thread Kodiak.. Its good to have all that info in one place :yes:

I used to fim my plants like crazy but now when i grow a plant from seed i like to let it grow el natural to see phenotypic expression of each.
Once a keeper is found though i like to let rip and get some yield :yummy:

The technique i use isnt shown here though. Its good for scrogs bushes & trees!

Flowering clones :woohoo:

1st you need a plant that is in flower. At arround 21 days cut a bud for a clone. This flowering clone will root & reveg at the same time and a whole bunch of shoots will come out of the bud. Perfect for a scrog or just a big bush or if you just want a low wide plant.

This one pictured is sativa leaning pheno of G33bx2 from head seeds. I used a lil lst in conjunction & it just went nutts :yoinks:










:woohoo: :laughing:

Flowering clones. Good for the soul mon. Also good for filling the jars :wave:
 

Kodiak

Mad Scientist
Veteran
Nice One Man :yes:

Your technique seems to give great results.

The last pic that you posted says it all.

I get mother plants that look like that after several months of training. I usually top the branches above each new node. In the end you get a bonsai plant that has a really thick stem and crazy amounts of branches and shoots.


Once again it has been shown that there are many ways of going about it.


I really should add this technique to the guide.. :chin:
 

Kodiak

Mad Scientist
Veteran
I added a new part on Flowering Clones, or Monster Cropping, to the guide.

Thanks JWP for the pics and info.

Enjoy

-Kodiak-
 

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