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A Basic Compost Tea Guide

sneaky_g

Member
My Compost tea recipe.

My Compost tea recipe.

I'm using Pureknowledge's organic soil mix.

For teas i've been using the following recipe through veg and flower.. i'm now 60 days flower and am pulling nice size colas inspite of having an RA infestation ..


I would like any input from V or the pro's about whether or not this recipe is good for flower / veg, and how in flower I could make kick start the fungi so that they can grow bigger in the 24 hour period i'm aerating.

I tried using a tupper ware container adding some vermicrop and ground up oatmeal (quakers), and setting it on my cable box for 4 days. It smells a little funny and its humid but I don't see any active fuzz growing .. Is the key to ball up the compost or continue wetting? maybe i over watered lol.


Here is a recipe that I was given by a guy at a local hydro store. On the instructions it doesn't specificy if its for veg or flower, but from what i've gathered its near impossible to burn plants with this tea..

Ingredients:

1 LB worm castings or vermmiblend (castings, compost, humus)
2 TBS Molasses
1 TBS soy ful
1 TBS humic acid
1 TBS Fish hydrolsate (optional) i was using. The soluble smelly yellow stuff
2 TBS organic soluble seaweed
2 TBS earth juice cata
2 TBS primal harvest solution guano
2 TBS mycorrhizae ( I was not adding this in every brew) sometimes I would sprinkle on the top of my soil prior to watering with my tea. and i always watered full strength. NEver diluted.

5 Gal of lukewarm reverse osmosis or distilled water ( tap water contains chlorine and chlroamines. These will kill off the microbial pop you are trying to breed).


So i would just use a sock and a string and dip my vermi compost into the tea and add all the ingredients in the beginning. at the 24 hour mark i'd pull it out and water immediately. Lots of foam from the mixture. and I have a 5 gallon brewer. I started brewing 2 and a half gallons instead of 5 because of the amount of foam. It was plenty. I'm sure you could dilute this 5:1 but it doesn't specificy in the instructions to dot hat...

Any suggestions on the timing of the above ingredients when adding to your tea.. Should i add 1 TBSP of molasses at the 12 hour mark?
Or would you guys stick to just keeping it the same or play around with adding things at dif parts.. suggestions appreciated

and im stoned as shit .. first smoke of my indoor kali mist 70 days .. 90 day veg, the teas kept it green and purple all the way to the end inspite of root aphids and i used no heavy chemicals.. I've heard that certain teas can be used as a prevenetitive for pests..

sorry for the ramble blame the folgers and the kali mist scissor hash
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
IMO you are better off with a much more simple recipe. So far in experiments I've done humic acid inhibits microbial growth in ACT. Better to use it separately on your soil.

Mycorrhizal spores are applied only to roots.
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
By percent of volume of water;

2.38% - vermicompost (VC)
0.5% - black strap molasses (unsulphured)
0.063% - fish hydrolysate
0.25% - sphagnum peatmoss (Premier Promoss or Alaska Peat)
If you cannot find peatmoss you can substitute Alaska Humus

Brew for 36 hours to get a nutrient cycling tea. You can use a teaspoon or two of sunflower seed oil or Organic Gem Low Odor Blend to control foaming. [contact Organic Gem to locate this product; it is a blend of vegetation hydrolysate and fish h.]

Recently we have made our teas with VC and molasses only and have achieved all three microbial groups. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MR7ZTrZQuFg
 

W89

Active member
Veteran
I started a compost tea today with 2.38% castings 0.50% Molasses and 0.25% alfalfa will brew it 36 hours
 

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