A Basic Compost Tea Guide

[MrFista]

Bit dissapointed in the lack of response. Ah well.

guess i'll just do it and log results.

 

[Smurf]

Yeah I think its a good idea,,, I've heard of the horn procedure before MrFista, but not that particular one ,,, the one I'm thinking of comes under the biodynamics banner (sounds like they're related)... the process consists of fresh manure packed into cow horns and then stacked upon one another in a trench facing a specific direction then back filled,, after a given period the horns are dug up, the manure removed & then diluted before applying to the soil,, some of the most interesting processes I've ever read about.

you're probably familiar with Steiner's work ...

Decades of experience with the Biodynamic (BD) method on Australian farms have shown that these soil qualities can be promoted and degradation reversed by the correct application of BD techniques.

Mixed farms practising the Biodynamic method have been in existence for over 65 years with none showing any evidence of loss of fertility or productivity.

Biodynamic practitioners seek to understand and work with the life processes as well as enhance their understanding of the mineral processes used in conventional agriculture. Healthy soil is a prime basis for healthy plants, animals and people.

BD farming practices are of an organic nature, not relying on bringing artificial fertilisers on to the farm, although some organic or natural mineral fertiliser may be necessary during the establishment phase.

On Biodynamic farms we seek instead to enhance the soils structure and nutrient cycles as well as plant growth and development with the use of specific Preparations which are made from farm-sourced materials.

These are the Biodynamic Preparations numbered 500 to 507 used in conjunction with established agricultural practices such as composting and manuring, crop and pasture rotations, tree planting, the integrated use of livestock, etc. As the name suggests, these Preparations are designed to work directly with the dynamic biological processes and cycles which are the basis of soil fertility.

Pest and disease control is generally managed by developing the farm as a total organism. However, BD practitioners may make use of specific products for weed and pest control, which they make from the weeds and pests themselves.

The Biodynamic Preparations were developed out of indications by Dr Rudolf Steiner in 1924. They are not fertilisers themselves but greatly assist the fertilising process. As such they only need to be used in very small amounts.

Horn Manure Preparation (500) is used to enliven the soil, increasing the microflora and availability of nutrients and trace elements. Through it the root growth, in particular, is strengthened in a balanced way, especially the fine root hairs. Develops humus formation, soil structure and water holding capacity.

Horn Silica Preparation (501) enhances the light and warmth assimilation of the plant, leading to better fruit and seed development with improved flavour, aroma, colour and nutritional quality.

Its stated that only 3oz (85g) of the horn manure prep 500 will treat 1 hectare (2 1/2 acres) of land and only 2g of the silica preparation will cover the same area,, just goes to show how potent the stuff is.

Good luck with your brew ,,, are you considering a control?

here's a few links....

http://www.kellosheilpark.com/biodynamic_farming.html

http://www.biodynamics.com/

http://www.biodynamics.net.au/index.htm

 

[MrFista]

Thanks Smurf for that reply and the resources.

I will be putting this bone tea on to brew today. I will use a control of one plant with same strain and size recieving no bones in the tea.

What interests me about biodynamics is the miniscule dilutions. When you consider that bacteria can readily exchange DNA it makes more sense to me - the building blocks and blueprints is all soil needs to get on with the job of improving itself.

Niche bacteria may very well be formed on the spot from other bacteria used as 'hard drives' for the specialists.

 

[MrFista]

OK - recipe I am brewing and notes.

2 gallons aquarium water
50 ml molasses
20 ml liquid seaweed extract
Handful blended green alfalfa sprouts
Handful rich black outdoor compost
Half handful bone fragments (chicken, beef, lamb)

Keeping it basic - except the blended alfalfa sprouts for enzymes and food, and the bones I hope the enzymes work on.

1 days brewing there is no fine foam on the sides like in the same recipe without the bones. Just the large clear bubbles. The sweet molasses smell is already gone - molasses already eaten? A biofilm 1/2 mm is formed on the bubble stone.

Some bone fragments were floating, all have sunk now. All bones have tea stain.

- the liquid is penetrating well into the bones. Using tea to innoculate bones will obviously work, but will the bones give up some flowering nutes for the tea?

The quest continues...

 

[MrFista]

I have previously mucked about with alfalfa sprouts in a tea

You can find that info starting with post 33 here...

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=60667&page=3&pp=15

Sorry my settings aren't letting me hyperlink.

There is a very obvious difference between this tea and the last.

The tea without bones had alfalfa waste present (ground up green plant matter) after 3 days brewing.

The tea with bones in it has completely broken down all signs of the sprouts in under 20 hours.

 

[jaykush]

sounds good keep us updated. are you going to add it to some plants?

 

[MrFista]

Sure am!

The tea will be tested on 3 of four plants. 3 strains will try it - an indica dominant, a nice even indica/sativa cross, and a sativa dominant.

The only control will be another sativa dominant given a tea without the bones added.

2nd day in. The tea started producing fine foam at 24 plus hours. Now at 40 hours there is much fine foam. The boneless tea previously mentioned had alfalfa waste suspended in the foam which gave it a green tinge. The tinge of the bone teas foam is tea coloured.

I added 500 ml of the tea to one plant (the indica/sativa) just now. Just in case it's BAD! By tomorrow I'll know if the plant is happier or horridly poisoned...

Biggest problem with the experiment is aphids. I let my work schedule take priority over my neem schedule and now I'm paying for it. I've just killed about 10 000 of the suckers manually. Back... aches.... should provide some relief for the girls.

A battle was won today, but the war on aphids is far from over.

Going to need some trays and vaseline keep them damn ants out of the pots.

 

[MrFista]

I'm in with the preliminary results

The 3 plants with bone tea look very happy and healthy, there is still leaf tip burn on the sativa though new growth doesn't display it as much. The whole plants pricked up but a lot of that is due to timing the watering with the tea.

The control loved it's tea too. No noticeable difference after 2 days.

The tea was THICK with life when I'd finished the 3rd days brewing. Smelt like nothing but the consistency of a thin soup.

Left some over after pouring in, waited a day, innoculated entire compost heap wood pile, grass pile, leaves pile and timber heap with it once I saw nothing dying/burning.

Bones - All bones used have been processed.

I eat the bones then I pass them on to my cats that smash em up; and eat anything soft left behind. Then the ants come in and they have a turn. Finally, after the ants have dissapeared i bleach them in the sun.

Then they become part of the tea, not before.

 

[jaykush]

aphids are easy to get rid of man, got any mint plants around? crush some mint, add to boiling water, make some tea. let cool dilute and apply. almost ALL aphids ive come across and im talking 30-50 different species hate it and leave within days. only one species that is speckled white and black like a zebra on my bamboo took it. everything else hated it and ran.

and then i took a small salsa jar added mint, hot pepper and garlic, let sit in the sun for a day or two, add a few drops to a spray bottle and spray. even the speckled aphids ran like bitches.

good stuff on the bone teas.

 

[Suby]

even the speckled aphids ran like bitches

You go and smack talk to those insects!

This is a great tip and works well as a preventative measure as well, plus it would work even in flowering, it seems alot of insects hate mint/garlic/hotpepper as well...

 

[MrFista]

thank you very much!

I didn't want to neem in flower but mint I do not mind. I've had a big patch of mint under my kitchen window for years and I hardly ever see flies in here, it's great stuff.

Disclaimer: Mint is invasive if you try pull it out each bit of root can become another plant. Plant wisely.

 

[jaykush]

i love invasive plants. such full of life and vigor. any invasive plant can be controlled, i love my mint and never care for it except teas and it stays put. biggest mint leaves u ever seen 2.5 inches across 5 inches long.

 

[MrFista]

Just been in the compost bin. This bone tea (and don't forget the alfalfa in case it's that) has activated my compost really well. It's winter here, not so cold but the compost bin is HOT!

I restacked the heap added lots of leaves and fresh weeds plus about 5% finished compost back in, only a few teaspoons of lime and watered it all with the bone tea.

It's a wee furnace too hot to comfortably keep your hand in it. Can't say if it's the bones or alfalfa but it's definately beter than any other tea I've put in compost as far as making it hot goes.

 

[arne564]

so what do you do with the foam?

 

[ixnay007]

Pour it on the plant man.

 

[MrFista]

OK - reports in. Bone tea plant same strain same size clone at beginning of experiment has fatter buds. By about 10%. You can overdo it the third tea in 3 weeks was too much the growth slowed and tips started burning again on sativa strains. So I diluted with plain water 2 days later and the plants are off again.

I've been pouring this stuff in with no dilution. Perhaps I could weaken it for regular application.

I'll be doing this (if bones are available) at start of flowering next grow as well. By then I hope to have a microscope and study what is different in a bone/non bone tea.

The bones are now in my compost, I'm gonna try have a pocket of em next time in the compost but accessible so I can recycle them in teas.

Lots of experimenting to go but I give bone tea the HEADS UP.

 

[simpleHouse]

Organic Bountea

Organic Bountea

Hey I've been using Organic Bountea Compost Tea for awhile now, and it has produced some great results. I wonder if anyone else uses alaska humisoil as I think this is the key to this recipe's success. PM if you or anyone you know has experience with this product or alaska humisoil specifically!

 

[simpleHouse]

Foam in Compost Tea

Foam in Compost Tea

Foam in Compost Tea is a sign of anaerobic bacterial growth, in my experience and testing. Sometimes this is a result of the specific recipe, or it is a result of not having enough aeration. Trying adding a heavy duty air pump to really churn that mixture and promote healthy bacterial growth.

 

[ixnay007]

Foam also happens with just molasses and air bubbles...

 

[CT Guy]

I've said this so many times on here, I just think people don't believe me.....Foam is not an indicator of a good or bad tea. I've seen both good and bad teas with foaming. I know whether they were good or bad because I was looking at them under a microscope. I think smell would be a much better casual indicator of quality.