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60 DE Nanolux 600 Coco DTW setup/grow
- Thread starter eric2028
- Start date
My last couple months with jacks has been hell with 3/2/1. Always chasing deficiencies
You getting them in flower as well? Greengenes formula? He is who put me onto it. I ran 760 ppm 3.6/2.4/1.2 from clone to now 15 inches veg. At 10 inches virtually all bad signs disappeared my first sign I was giving too much as I suspected from start and not too little). I now have perfect plants but for a very slight cal deficiency on some I noticed last night which I am assuming why Erics formula has bit more. I am switching to the formula here on a new set of test clones as we speak and will report back.
I am sure with the experience here both you and me will be squared away after a run or two so hang in there
PS what lights are you using?
Im running 2 solis tek de 1k with philips bulbs with a generic 630 cmh between them with philips bulbs.You getting them in flower as well? Greengenes formula? He is who put me onto it. I ran 760 ppm 3.6/2.4/1.2 from clone to now 15 inches veg. At 10 inches virtually all bad signs disappeared my first sign I was giving too much as I suspected from start and not too little). I now have perfect plants but for a very slight cal deficiency on some I noticed last night which I am assuming why Erics formula has bit more. I am switching to the formula here on a new set of test clones as we speak and will report back.
I am sure with the experience here both you and me will be squared away after a run or two so hang in there
PS what lights are you using?
Got no deficiencies at the moment but running at 1.4 ec recirc in a 4 site ppk unit.
I hope like hell I can reach a level of dialed the op has someday.
Just flipped yesterday
When I added up your ppm on the 3/3.6 ratio I got 600 and some Ppms. When I just mixed a 5 gallon with it (15 grams of the 5-12-26 and 16.6 grams calnit) I got 880 ppms (500 scale) and 1.8 ec on my meter. Makes me question my ec meter? It picks up no reading from the straight tap water.
@e's ratio 810ppm 1700 ec
Ibechillin
Masochist Educator
In the jacks 5-12-26 thread its recommended to mix batches of solution by adding the jacks to RO water until the desired EC/ppm from it is reached and then adding caltrate until total EC/ppm strength is achieved.
Ok thanks a ton. Does anyone have any seedling advice at all? I have a few damping off which I never had before in soil and coco. Before I was starting seeds in solo cups though and moved to 1 gal. Now i have started straight in 5 inch pot which looks almost a gallon. Could this be the issue or was my 130 ppm Jack's clone mix feeding too much or too little.? I am also experimenting with 5 ml clonex clone and seedling fert at 360 ppm. My seedlings dont look great like they do in my soil. Some have burnt edges or grow little funky in both test batches...almost tempted to just veg in soil to start but the whole point was to be rid of it entirely.
PS sorry to take up so much room in thread as soon when I got the basics down I'll shut up and watch =p
PS sorry to take up so much room in thread as soon when I got the basics down I'll shut up and watch =p
Ibechillin
Masochist Educator
Damping off usually caused by medium being/staying too wet from what I understand, the soil I plant germinated seeds into is practically hydrophobic because I fear this happening so much.
Eh I am in coco but add cup of chunky perlite to these testers coco. Pots are like a litre I believe 5 inch. It could be the fungus gnats as well. 4 stems randomly just slumped in the mid section. Got very skinny and dry where they slump so I know they are goners. I was watering once a day cup at a time to try to get little run off....
Did I noob it? Should I have watered with much less like 80 ml?
Did I noob it? Should I have watered with much less like 80 ml?
As I said before he put me on to jacks. I used his 3-2-1 (3.6-2.4-1.2) from start of clone to 15 inches. My clones did not like it all from 4 different varieties. I believe this was because I was just going by raw weight measurements when PPM seems to be what you should be going for when mixing. He recommended 760 ppm I believe.
With Ibechillins recommended changes veg in order for me to have the 620~ ppms (per 5 gallon of water) I use 10.5 Jacks NPK and 11.2 of cal nit. This is a big difference in weight imo not only from Ibechillins but also Greengenes recommendations. Hopefully I am doing things right.
With green genes my plants looked pretty good at 12+ inches. Most people would be very happy. I was not however. I saw slight cal, mag, and possibly n issues. The growth was not as lush green as OP's. I was watering 2 x day to 20% run off from clone on.
We will see how Ibechillins measures up in a week or two on new set of clones I am currently feeding it to.
I just transplanted yesterday the original set grown using Greengenes forumal to 2 gallons and switched it to Ibechillins. They look a little droopy light on mag and nitrogen. I watered right when I transplanted. I wonder if I should have just stuck in the wet coco which was precharged with the same nutes instead of watering to 20% run off right off the bat? I remember needing to go easy on new transplants but not exactly what I used to do. I used 6/9 gh formula years ago and had perfect plants from the start seed and all. Hell bent on learning the jacks I have though.
Ibechillin
Masochist Educator
I run wet/dry cycles for the entire time the clone is in the cup. Eventually though it drys out daily and requires daily watering. In veg I initially run wet/dry cycles also. By about week 3 they require daily watering. If I happen to see any deficiencies in veg it’s usually time to start watering daily and it clears up. I run that 3/2.5 mix from right out the cloner to flush at full strength.
Well, I guess this is going to be rougher than I thought. That jikoda person runs and recommends 2.4 ec with perfect clones and plants in veg and I had burned tips at 1.8? Fuckin confused now. Especially with everyone recommending 600-700 ppms which isn't even close to 2.4 ec Just checked plants now they look completely starved since switching to the 620 ppm formula. This happened quick.
Is watering once a day the problem or is lack of nutes?
Just now looking at the plants I grew first time ever coco 6 years ago with lucas formula GH nutes and I am starting to get frustrated. My seedlings and clones were perfection too. Although I'd love to blame the nutes you guys have perfect plants.
What is your ppms with that weight since weight seems only to be a guide line and ppms everything?
Is watering once a day the problem or is lack of nutes?
Just now looking at the plants I grew first time ever coco 6 years ago with lucas formula GH nutes and I am starting to get frustrated. My seedlings and clones were perfection too. Although I'd love to blame the nutes you guys have perfect plants.
What is your ppms with that weight since weight seems only to be a guide line and ppms everything?
Ibechillin
Masochist Educator
1.8 - 2.4 ec from rooted clone to harvest is with custom balanced feed solution (like 164-30-164-200-30 in his 2 inch pot quote scaled to 2.4 ec), with clones cut from mothers on the same balanced feed program. Not possible to feed plants that way with only jacks 5-12-26 and caltrate, or any premade nutrient solution really.
This is the post about mixing by ppm and not weight/volume:
This is the post about mixing by ppm and not weight/volume:
Figure I will give a noob update while we wait for the real deal 
I was able to recoup plants to looking pretty damn good and cloned them for another tester round. I am pretty sure I set my self up for failure by not using RO water even with the advice given here. I am waiting on the RO unit the OP purchased to arrive and will hopefully have it set up by Friday. Then we start again =)
I also did some testing with GH 6/9 which I previously used to perfection with 0 RO water or anything really other than a pH pen. Entirely different water source however. Plants have issues that got it which has led me to believe that RO was the key.
So major noob mistakes everyone can learn from:
1. Use RO water. No exceptions.
2. Mix by PPM's not by weight!!! Mix your NPK then your Cal nit. If using MG (not recommended) for whatever reasons add before Cal nit.
3. Let everything FULLY dissolve before adding any other part of the nutrient mix. Using hot water speeds this up ten fold.
4. Don't drown vegging plants in coco, especially seedlings. Do a wet dry cycle much like soil. You can drown plants in coco if roots aren't established. I have had to learn this lesson twice now. I looked back at old posts of mine in coco and sure enough wet/dry cycle was what I was using in veg and being very light with watering seedlings like teaspoon or less to prevent drying out of seedling when needed. Then let it sit till it dries up a bit half way down from top of container and then water.
5. Don't feed seedlings until cotyledon leaves use up their nutrients. I have lush green seedlings with just 320 ppm clonex. Will be working on jacks formula over time but for now clonex solution is an ok crutch.
I was able to recoup plants to looking pretty damn good and cloned them for another tester round. I am pretty sure I set my self up for failure by not using RO water even with the advice given here. I am waiting on the RO unit the OP purchased to arrive and will hopefully have it set up by Friday. Then we start again =)
I also did some testing with GH 6/9 which I previously used to perfection with 0 RO water or anything really other than a pH pen. Entirely different water source however. Plants have issues that got it which has led me to believe that RO was the key.
So major noob mistakes everyone can learn from:
1. Use RO water. No exceptions.
2. Mix by PPM's not by weight!!! Mix your NPK then your Cal nit. If using MG (not recommended) for whatever reasons add before Cal nit.
3. Let everything FULLY dissolve before adding any other part of the nutrient mix. Using hot water speeds this up ten fold.
4. Don't drown vegging plants in coco, especially seedlings. Do a wet dry cycle much like soil. You can drown plants in coco if roots aren't established. I have had to learn this lesson twice now. I looked back at old posts of mine in coco and sure enough wet/dry cycle was what I was using in veg and being very light with watering seedlings like teaspoon or less to prevent drying out of seedling when needed. Then let it sit till it dries up a bit half way down from top of container and then water.
5. Don't feed seedlings until cotyledon leaves use up their nutrients. I have lush green seedlings with just 320 ppm clonex. Will be working on jacks formula over time but for now clonex solution is an ok crutch.
Ibechillin
Masochist Educator
40amps sounds like your on the right track getting an RO system and re evaluating your watering habits, this thread might be of some help its about root health in coco:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=338851
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=338851
I need to get an RO system.Figure I will give a noob update while we wait for the real deal
I was able to recoup plants to looking pretty damn good and cloned them for another tester round. I am pretty sure I set my self up for failure by not using RO water even with the advice given here. I am waiting on the RO unit the OP purchased to arrive and will hopefully have it set up by Friday. Then we start again =)
I also did some testing with GH 6/9 which I previously used to perfection with 0 RO water or anything really other than a pH pen. Entirely different water source however. Plants have issues that got it which has led me to believe that RO was the key.
So major noob mistakes everyone can learn from:
1. Use RO water. No exceptions.
2. Mix by PPM's not by weight!!! Mix your NPK then your Cal nit. If using MG (not recommended) for whatever reasons add before Cal nit.
3. Let everything FULLY dissolve before adding any other part of the nutrient mix. Using hot water speeds this up ten fold.
4. Don't drown vegging plants in coco, especially seedlings. Do a wet dry cycle much like soil. You can drown plants in coco if roots aren't established. I have had to learn this lesson twice now. I looked back at old posts of mine in coco and sure enough wet/dry cycle was what I was using in veg and being very light with watering seedlings like teaspoon or less to prevent drying out of seedling when needed. Then let it sit till it dries up a bit half way down from top of container and then water.
5. Don't feed seedlings until cotyledon leaves use up their nutrients. I have lush green seedlings with just 320 ppm clonex. Will be working on jacks formula over time but for now clonex solution is an ok crutch.
Im with you on the wet dry cycle. For me, until Ive really rootbound a container. Wet/dry is absolutely necessary.
I am not great with seedlings. Got 9 nila wafers going on like 4 weeks. Fed nothing but bacteria and a cap full of kelp per 5 gal. Healthiest seed plants Ive ever had. Didnt lose any to damping off.
Going to try mixing by ppm tonight for main res. Kind of a pain with my truncheon. What scale are these instructions above? I pay mind to ec these days due to ppm being 2 dif scales
Well said sir!! A couple thoughts I wanted to mention. I Havnt cracked beans lately but previously for seedling I would use a spray bottle to moisten them very early on. You don’t have to drench them. Just spray the surface of your medium to moist only when it’s dry(but not bone dry). There is a learning curve. I’ve never lost a seedling ever. Also, I do still mix by weight but here’s a couple things to do.Figure I will give a noob update while we wait for the real deal
I was able to recoup plants to looking pretty damn good and cloned them for another tester round. I am pretty sure I set my self up for failure by not using RO water even with the advice given here. I am waiting on the RO unit the OP purchased to arrive and will hopefully have it set up by Friday. Then we start again =)
I also did some testing with GH 6/9 which I previously used to perfection with 0 RO water or anything really other than a pH pen. Entirely different water source however. Plants have issues that got it which has led me to believe that RO was the key.
So major noob mistakes everyone can learn from:
1. Use RO water. No exceptions.
2. Mix by PPM's not by weight!!! Mix your NPK then your Cal nit. If using MG (not recommended) for whatever reasons add before Cal nit.
3. Let everything FULLY dissolve before adding any other part of the nutrient mix. Using hot water speeds this up ten fold.
4. Don't drown vegging plants in coco, especially seedlings. Do a wet dry cycle much like soil. You can drown plants in coco if roots aren't established. I have had to learn this lesson twice now. I looked back at old posts of mine in coco and sure enough wet/dry cycle was what I was using in veg and being very light with watering seedlings like teaspoon or less to prevent drying out of seedling when needed. Then let it sit till it dries up a bit half way down from top of container and then water.
5. Don't feed seedlings until cotyledon leaves use up their nutrients. I have lush green seedlings with just 320 ppm clonex. Will be working on jacks formula over time but for now clonex solution is an ok crutch.
1. Always store powder nutes of any kind in an airtight container. I like 5 gallon black buckets with gamma seal lids(on amazon).
2. Always store said containers in a controlled environment. Obviously high humidity being the biggest issue.
3. Calibrate your meter. Fill a 5 gallon bucket with ro water, make sure it’s exactly 5 gallons. Check your ec, Write it down. Now add part A, check your ec, write it down. Now add part B, check your ec, write it down. Now check your ph and yes write it down. Now you know exactly where your values always need to be know matter what. Sorry to spell this out for the old pros but it’s helpful for guys getting their feet wet.
I use ec but a quick way to convert it to the 500 scale is for example 1.74 ec x1000/2=870 ppm on .5 scale. Hope that helps.
I ll get an update very soon friends!!
Thanks man, looking forward to the update
