I
irie-i
skeletor answered the ? you asked me about my timer rig
its a t-104 for 40 amp. it used to be plugged into a dryer outlet, now it has a dedicated circuit.
-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
skeletor answered the ? you asked me about my timer rig
its a t-104 for 40 amp. it used to be plugged into a dryer outlet, now it has a dedicated circuit.
fuzygrowth
Active member
hey buddy, contactors and such are not needed unless you making some sort of flip flop system. here's what a simple arangement looks like, the timer will handle 8 600 watt hps running at 240v.
G
Guest
Thats a nice looking setup fuzzy.. Now you have all of that stuff running off 1 240 line, right. And could you switch 4 of those oulets to regular outlets minus the timer? (for like fans and pumps etc.)
purrpullkush
Member
jah, I was saying you don't need all the fancy relays contactors etc, if you wanted to be able to turn just 1 light off to replace something etc, you need a breaker for each light on the load side of the timer. Its not hard to wire up a t104.
G
Guest
Nice setup fuzzy,whats the dedicated 240V circuit for?
purrpullkush
Member
probably for veg light
fuzygrowth
Active member
skeletor : that breaker is for an a/c unit which will be installed shortly, just building this room now, should start a thread soon. that box is fed with 100 amp wire so it'll be powering the whole room.
thats what the box looked like a couple of days ago, i know the grounds were in the wrong place and it's been fixed. there was a little mix up about where the grounds/neutral should go on 240 wiring but like i said, it's been fixed. running plenty of 20 amp circuits now while the walls are still opened up .
thats what the box looked like a couple of days ago, i know the grounds were in the wrong place and it's been fixed. there was a little mix up about where the grounds/neutral should go on 240 wiring but like i said, it's been fixed. running plenty of 20 amp circuits now while the walls are still opened up .
G
Guest
240V AC must be at least 18K BTU,I have a 12 and its 120V.I think they start 240V at maybe 15000 BTU.I knew it was for something like that but the 240V threw me.If you ever need to replace the T-104 years and years down the line go with the WH-40,its the same animal except it has an external on-off lever which comes in real handy.Of course you could kill it right there at the breaker...ah I just like the WH40 lol
G
Guest
I just noticed what you said about neutral and ground placement.An easy way to distinguish the neutral from the ground bar besides the neutral usually being larger is the neutral bar will be up on insulators so it is not contacting the metal can.The ground bar is normally screwed directly into the metal can.You should have no continuity between the neutral and ground bars,they will only be spliced at the service entrance equiptment
fuzygrowth
Active member
i was confused about the ground becoming a neutral, it's common sense that it's not since it's a bare wire and touching all the other grounds, duhhh... its not like an actual insulated neutral. thoredee set me straight the a/c unit is 28,000 btu by the way
G
Guest
Yea just remember the neutral is also a current carrying conductor,thats why its always insulated,in an unbalanced panel it can be carrying quite a load I've seen feeder neutral hot to the touch because of an unbalanced panel.The ground will only become live under rare bad cicumstances lol
purrpullkush
Member
Just for the record folks, the ground bus bar and the neutral bus bar should only be connected at the service entrance panel, everything downstream needs to be seperate.. All sub panels must have seperate ground and neutral bus bars.
G
Guest
I'm not sure what you mean pico,you dont mean a series circuit though.I think you mean can they be daisy chained to gether,yes they can.It a hell of a lot easier to come out of the WH40 maybe a foot to a box holding you receptacle,then just plug in your fixtures.Are you trying to come out of the timer to the first fixture then from the first fixture to the second fixture etc?Thats loosely called daisy chaining and yes you can do that,but I'd go the receptacle route unless for some reason the fixtures are absent power cords
yeah daisy chained.
I have two plastic boxes that hold four 240 plugs each. I don't want to have to wire each plug to the wh40. But the 240 plugs don't have an in and an out for wires. So I would have to use those fork looking wire connectors. Then I would need 48 of them. That seems like a pain in the ass.
Isn't there a better way to wire up 8 240v plugs?
I have two plastic boxes that hold four 240 plugs each. I don't want to have to wire each plug to the wh40. But the 240 plugs don't have an in and an out for wires. So I would have to use those fork looking wire connectors. Then I would need 48 of them. That seems like a pain in the ass.
Isn't there a better way to wire up 8 240v plugs?
G
Guest
I dont have much time,youy can do a couple different things,I would use the receptacles.I'd come into the first receptacle box with the 3 wires,then I'd make the splices to power the receptacles in both boxes.Take akk 3 wires 2 hots and a ground that are in the first receptacle box and splice them to two wires a few inches long to feed the first two receptacles.You will also need to bring a short piece of 3 wire to the second box to power the second set of receptacles.These also must be put under the wire nut with the power and "pigtails" to the first receptacles.Does that make sense?Its best to use deep boxes its much easier to make your splices.Or you could put a junction box like you said in between the WH 40 and the fixtures,all the power cords from the fixtures would go to this box after you cut the plugs off and will be spliced to the wires coming from the load side of timer.If you do this make SURE it is the WH40,you MUST have a means of disconnect if wired into a junction box like that.The receptacles act as a means of disconnect otherwise.With the WH40 tou have two means of disconnect when using receptacles,you have to have 1 and the WH40 has the external on off lever.Hope this made sense pico
thanks bob. I would still be using the receptacles with the junction boxes, I just would like to do not have to daisy chain all those if possible. All my stuff is currently daisy chained but I was upgrading to 40 amps in to the WH40 and thought it might be better to not have everything daisy chained.
For instance. Having each 20A 250v receptacle wired with 12/2 back to a junction box where all the 12/2 receptacle wires would be connected to an 8/2 wire that goes to the WH40. Is this better or the same thing?
Also, my ground screw in my WH40 is stripped out. Can I just ground anywhere on metal body?
For instance. Having each 20A 250v receptacle wired with 12/2 back to a junction box where all the 12/2 receptacle wires would be connected to an 8/2 wire that goes to the WH40. Is this better or the same thing?
Also, my ground screw in my WH40 is stripped out. Can I just ground anywhere on metal body?
G
Guest
Sounds good to me,splicing all thise 12's to a #8 feeder may fit under a big blue wirenut,or you may have to use a "terminal block" to make the splices in,either way is OK.Yes you can bond anywhere to the metal box.
Ok, everything is wired up and working great. I just used what I had lying around. 4 plugs are wired with 12/2 and are daisy chained. I had that wired up from a previous install so I used it. Then I have 2 more plugs that are wired seperately with 14/2. I am running a total of 6400 watts on my WH40 timer.
I am switching to all 600w lights so it will soon be 6000w. With my ballasts that is 26 amps. I have 40 amps being run to the WH40 with 8/2 wire. coming off a 50 amp sub panel. Is this too much juice for the WH40 to operate reliably for a long period of time? It is rated at 40 amps but I have heard somewhere to use less. Also, I lost the protective plastic piece inside the WH40, how big of deal is that?
I am switching to all 600w lights so it will soon be 6000w. With my ballasts that is 26 amps. I have 40 amps being run to the WH40 with 8/2 wire. coming off a 50 amp sub panel. Is this too much juice for the WH40 to operate reliably for a long period of time? It is rated at 40 amps but I have heard somewhere to use less. Also, I lost the protective plastic piece inside the WH40, how big of deal is that?
