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2022 Outdoor Gardening in the Northeast

Capt.Ahab

Feeding the ducks with a bun.
Veteran
A couple of pics of my Ninja crosses which are loving life outside. Very vigorous plants.
They are all about 2 1/2 feet tall right now. Ive got most of them growing in fish totes that hold about 30 gallons of soil with a large striped bass rack buried underneath them. The plants love that decomposing fish.

Ninja Fruit x Prophet.
The immense fan leaves of the Prophet always comes through, no matter what it is crossed with.
Those fan leaves are close to 12 inches across. As you can see, I lopped the top off this one a while back to make it bush out.
Prophet 2023.jpg

Im pretty sure Im seeing balls starting to form on the plant on the left. Chop Chop once confirmed.
NinjaProphet2023.jpg


Ninja Fruit x (Diablo OG x DMT).

Seeing some female preflowers on this one.
NinjaDiablo2023.jpg
 

Green Squall

Well-known member
A couple of pics of my Ninja crosses which are loving life outside. Very vigorous plants.
They are all about 2 1/2 feet tall right now. Ive got most of them growing in fish totes that hold about 30 gallons of soil with a large striped bass rack buried underneath them. The plants love that decomposing fish.

Ninja Fruit x Prophet.
The immense fan leaves of the Prophet always comes through, no matter what it is crossed with.
Those fan leaves are close to 12 inches across. As you can see, I lopped the top off this one a while back to make it bush out.

Im pretty sure Im seeing balls starting to form on the plant on the left. Chop Chop once confirmed.


Ninja Fruit x (Diablo OG x DMT).

Seeing some female preflowers on this one.
Great way to utilize a fish carcass. I did the same thing with my raspberry bush last year. No keepers this year so far!
 

OG_NoMan

Not Veteran
First sunny day in like a week got about 3-4 inches of rain. Just got 5 more plants in the ground and it seemed every shovel of soil had at least 2 worms in it. Plants are doing great especially considering all the rain. Lots of bug pressure this year especially Japanese beetles but just keeping an eye on things letting nature do it's thing.

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flower~power

~Star~Crash~
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I stripped and cleaned mine a bit yesterday , the glass snails are taking some of their early morning meals I can see Where they’ve been and what they’ve been doing
 

OG_NoMan

Not Veteran
First the bad plant that has been eaten up. Its the gelato something or other cross that was given to me. I am not super worried about it as it's the only problem plant as you'll see in the next post.

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pipeline

Cannabotanist
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Those are really nice. Thats what balance nutrition is supposed to look like. Good spacing between plants for good airflow. What are you top dressing with? I am just using slow release nutrients now. Careful not to burn anything!

The stunted one doesn't look very bug infested. Just a little yellow. Whats going on with that one?
 

OG_NoMan

Not Veteran
Those are really nice. Thats what balance nutrition is supposed to look like. Good spacing between plants for good airflow. What are you top dressing with? I am just using slow release nutrients now. Careful not to burn anything!

The stunted one doesn't look very bug infested. Just a little yellow. Whats going on with that one?
My nutrition schedule is a couple pages back on the notepad. During all the wet weather this plant seemd to get bitten up by I am guessing aphids and Japanese Beatles although I just pulled a leaf worm off also, should have gotten a pic.

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It should be fine in the long run though as the new growth looks good. It also looks to be starting flower IMO which is early for me.

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pipeline

Cannabotanist
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Remove as much diseased tissue as you can and dispose of it away from the garden. I would just monitor if its not on the other plants. Check weekly and remove diseased tissue. Should be alright after feeding.
 

pipeline

Cannabotanist
ICMag Donor
Veteran


Leaf Spot – Curvularia pseudobrachyspora – 26 June 2020​


This pathogen was first observed during a field trial in 2019. Leaf spot symptoms on some varieties were seen as high as 70%. The symptoms were typical of leaf spot with small yellow spots which became tan to brown with an accompanying yellow halo. The pathogen was observed on young and old leaves.


https://apsjournals.apsnet.org/doi/10.1094/PDIS-03-20-0546-PDN


Curvularia symptom and morphology



Photo Credit - Marin, Coburn, Desaeger and Peres. UF-GCREC, Wimauma, 2020. Infection of Curvularia pseudobrachyspora on hemp leaf and pathogen morphology.

Cercospora Leaf Spot – Cercospora cf. flagellaris – 17 March 2020


This pathogen was first observed during a greenhouse and field trial in 2019. Leaf spot symptoms were seen on as high as 60% of the plant’s leaves. The symptoms were typical of leaf spot, beginning as small yellow flecks, developing into lesions which turned to light tan or white, with yellow halos, and in severe cases developing chlorosis, leading to defoliation. The infections began on older leaves and moved through the canopy.


https://apsjournals.apsnet.org/doi/10.1094/PDIS-11-19-2287-PDN


Cercospora symptom and morphology



Photo Credit – Marin, Coburn, Desaeger and Peres. UF-GCREC, Wimauma, 2020. Infection of Cercospora cf. flagellaris on hemp leaf and pathogen morphology. https://doi.org/10.1094/PDIS-11-19-2287-PDN


Septoria Leaf Spot – Septoria sp.


Septoria leaf spot is one of the most common leaf spot pathogens among the hemp leaf spot diseases. Like other leaf spot pathogens, the symptoms of this disease begin in the lower canopy as small brown spots with yellow margins. The leaf spots may continue to grow, turn brown and coalesce. More advanced symptoms may be observed, such as leaf yellowing, stunting, and plant death. This disease can progress quickly during the summer months when there is excess moisture, humidity, and the canopies are more dense.


Management Considerations for Leaf Spot Diseases​


At this time the best recommendation is to avoid susceptible cultivars. Research is ongoing to determine how to best manage these pathogens.




Powdery Mildew – Golovinomyces sp.


This disease is characterized by its white powdery appearance on the upper surface of the leaf. The powdery growth is made up of masses of fungi that give it its distinct appearance. Additional symptoms can include leaf necrosis and distortion, as well as early defoliation. The disease is common in both outdoor and greenhouse growing environments. High humidity and free water increase susceptibility to this disease. The pathogen is spread by spores that originate from infected tissue. The most common means of spore dispersal are through air currents.


Management Considerations for Powdery Mildew​


At this time, cultural controls are the most effective way to manage Powdery Mildew. Specifically through the manipulation of the growing environment. The most effective cultural control strategy is to reduce humidity and moisture around and on the plant surface. This may be accomplished by increasing airflow around the plants to avoid areas of high humidity, and if possible, avoiding overhead irrigation.




Stem Canker – Diaporthe phaseolorum


This pathogen was first observed during a field trial in 2019. The symptoms observed with this disease were stem cankers. The symptoms began on the main stem as light-to-dark brown lesions of varying formations, eventually coalescing into larger necrotic areas. In this trial, at least 60% of three-month-old plants showed symptoms of this disease.


Stem Canker



Photo Credit – Marin, Wang, Coburn, Desaeger, and Peres. UF-GCREC, Wimauma, 2019. Symptoms in different stages of disease development of hemp stem canker, caused by Diaporthe phaseolorum.


Management Considerations for Stem Canker


At this time, management of this disease may only be accomplished through resistant cultivars. Research is ongoing to identify more about management of this disease.




Gray Mold – Botrytis cinerea


The gray mold pathogen is one of the most important pathogens, as it is typically considered to be always present. Since this pathogen is rarely ever absent, it relies on wounds or natural openings to infect its host. The symptoms of this pathogen are often observed on the flower buds that are generally observed as having a gray moldy appearance. This fungus is very opportunistic, so any openings caused by pruning or insect damage are sites for possible infection. Other symptoms associated with this pathogen depend upon the site of infection, i.e. girdling and breaking of the stem. This pathogen may also cause damping off of seedlings in greenhouses, and is easily spread through the air.


Management Considerations for Gray Mold​


While this pathogen can occur in field and greenhouse settings, it is favored by the high relative humidity inside greenhouses, which makes it a particularly important pathogen for indoor growers. This pathogen is very difficult to manage once it is found, but reducing air current after infection, sanitation afterwards are important to limiting the spread of the gray mold pathogen.

Leaf Spot – Curvularia pseudobrachyspora

Leaf spot publication/study acespicoli just posted.

Could apply bordeaux mixture or copper based fungicide both are OMRI approved products, but I wouldn't do applications if its not an uncontrollable outbreak on multiple plants. New growth looks good, but monitor and "IF IN DOUBT, PRUNE IT OUT".
 
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pipeline

Cannabotanist
ICMag Donor
Veteran
1689900166026.png

Reverend was warning and I agree, I wouldn't use chicken manure past about July 20 because of the risk of burn. I would use something slow release like cottonseed or alfalfa meal.

Nice fertility regimen though. Looks like its performing well!
 

OG_NoMan

Not Veteran
View attachment 18868060
Reverend was warning and I agree, I wouldn't use chicken manure past about July 20 because of the risk of burn. I would use something slow release like cottonseed or alfalfa meal.

Nice fertility regimen though. Looks like its performing well!
I am not trying to be a dick as I like you but I am not asking if that's what I should do. This is kind of a journal of a brand new bed I made that has been documented for me and others to see. I make a plan and follow it as most of what people say is bullshit they read and not real life practice they have experienced. I work with a very experienced and trusted grower @Chunkypigs to come up with this stuff based on a soil balancing belief of slow nickel and a professor Albrecht from like 1920 being put into practice. I appreciate you following along and your contributions to leaf spot but my nutrition isn't up for debate :rasta:
 

pipeline

Cannabotanist
ICMag Donor
Veteran
You'll be fine to use it, I think if its done correctly. Will give you some lush growth! I burned with chicken manure earlier this year and wasn't the first time burning. It was an over application slightly. Just be careful with it, and put it down as evenly as possible. Be sure to water it in really well and keep up with watering weekly to prevent risk of burn. May see a slight yellow symptom on a couple leaves, but thats normal. Chicken manure is great fertilizer.

Yeah that was great to have Chunky Pigs help, should be set for adequate nutrition and heavy buds. :smoke:
 

pipeline

Cannabotanist
ICMag Donor
Veteran
so keep in mind you will weigh and mix only the portion that is going to be applied and tilled in now.

mix the leaf mold and castings on the tarp well, you need a mix that's not wet and soggy so be careful of the ratio of castings to leaf mold. if the mix is too wet you will never get the minerals well mixed

then sift the minerals through a kitchen strainer on top of
that mix, break up any chunks of the fine minerals. the minerals that are pelletized just sprinkle them, don't try to force them through the screen.

be careful you are not doing this in a windy situation that might blow away the fine stuff.

be really careful with the tiny amounts of borax and the other micros that they are well mixed and not just dumped in a pile on top of the castings.

I use a rake upside down to mix back and forth for a while and then toss the pile with the corners of the tarp over and repeat for an hour making certain the fines don't settle under the fluffy stuff.

I divide the final mixture into buckets and set them in the garden then carefully broadcast the mix by hand evenly over the surface.

finally till well with the roto tiller, sprinkle on your clover seed or whatever you want for ground cover and then keep moist. a this layer of straw with help the ground cover establish.

if you are making mounds do that after tilling but before the ground cover and watering and straw.
good luck!
Thats a good application method. The chicken manure directions on one bag said a handfull per square yard. At 2 lbs, your rate is on the low side and shouldn't burn.

Do you do any watering? Sounds like you don't need to with the wet weather.
 

OG_NoMan

Not Veteran
Back to reality after 3 days of Phishing feeling mentally refreshed heading back for 2 more shows Friday. The plants look excellent, I pulled the one that had the leaf spot disease. Gonna do a top dress next week gotta start staking soon also.

My wife on the right with our very good friend
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2 on the right are headband middle natty bumpo
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From the left trop c, smackerz, cherry cookies, down front a late trop c
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3 bigger plants Headband smaller from left cherry cookie, 2 Smackerz
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