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2021 Outdoor Grow

offthehook

Well-known member
Veteran
The amount you put as seen on your pics looks fairly alright by me by just eyeballing it Parameter. About the same amount on the outer perimeter as well, and then I think you would be golden just like it is.
That coal that you find from public places is also good to use. It's bio char in essence, and it neutralizes the soil's PH very well in your favor. Please use it, as it will buffer some little fuck ups, and makes the chalk release more stable.
 

Parameter

Well-known member
The amount you put as seen on your pics looks fairly alright by me by just eyeballing it Parameter. About the same amount on the outer perimeter as well, and then I think you would be golden just like it is.
That coal that you find from public places is also good to use. It's bio char in essence, and it neutralizes the soil's PH very well in your favor. Please use it, as it will buffer some little fuck ups, and makes the chalk release more stable.

Ok! Then I’ll go and bring it. I assume it’s the same amount as you said before, 2-3 decilitre for each 100liter or maybe less because of the chalk I already put?
 

offthehook

Well-known member
Veteran
Ehm no. Char coal/ Bio Char is not the same as wood ash, and you'd need putting way more of it to become functional.

I hear people talking about using it to up to 10% of the volume of their soil. But to my ears that sounds rather much like bare overkill for no any good reason at all.
Their reasoning is that it has a large microscopic surface for lots of microbes to attach, and lots of active carbon to neutralize toxins and PH imbalances.

I'd rather opt for 2 to 3 liter Bio Char per 100 liter of soil. Or 2 to 3 % of the soils volume, either way.

I can not know for sure who is now hands on right or wrong here though.

On my plots, there has at least like 2 or 3 % Bio Char particles been accumulated throughout the years that came all naturally along as a by product of the wood ash deposits, and things have only gotten better and better all the time.
 

Parameter

Well-known member
Ehm no. Char coal/ Bio Char is not the same as wood ash, and you'd need putting way more of it to become functional.

I hear people talking about using it to up to 10% of the volume of their soil. But to my ears that sounds rather much like bare overkill for no any good reason at all.
Their reasoning is that it has a large microscopic surface for lots of microbes to attach, and lots of active carbon to neutralize toxins.

I'd rather opt for 2 to 3 liter Bio Char per 100 liter of soil. Or 2 to 3 % of the soils volume, either way.

I can not know for sure who is now hands on right or wrong here though.

On my plots, there has at least like 2 or 3 % Bio Char particles been accumulated throughout the years that came all naturally along as a by product of the wood ash deposits, and things have only gotten better and better all the time.

Ok, I’ll do that. Same thing there? Charcoal over the edges?
 

offthehook

Well-known member
Veteran
No. Charcoal only mixed in locally with the soil on the plot.

Chalk also over the edges in the same amount like you already did do on the surface of the plot.

I need you to understand the principle: Chalk raises the PH, and keeps on raising it. Charcoal neutralizes/absorbs/buffers/stabilizes the surplus releasing chalk PH down to where it should be in combination with your cow manure.

Hope this helps. But feel free to ask questions in case you are not sure about something.

I want you to succeed as much as you want it yourself. And you'll be getting the full explanation on top as well.

Much is about putting the puzzle together in order to know what you are doing.
 

Chemimbalance

Well-known member
Idag preppade jag grop nummer två. Eventuellt blir det även en tredje grop i samma storlek (~200-300l) beroende på tid/ork. Jorden på plats är ganska bra och jag har hittills bara tillsatt 15 liter bokashi i botten av varje grop och myllat ner dött gräs, fladdermusguano och benmjöl. Jag kommer eventuellt tillsätta lite kompost och någon säck gödsel också, mest för att få lite mer mull i groparna och fluffa till det hela vid utplantering.
jag passade även på att sprida lite ferramol på och runt groparna för att få en tjuvstart mot sniglarna. Jag urinerade på buskar och spred även benmjöl runt området för att skrämma bort kaniner och för att rävar och dylikt inte ska gräva i groparna. Bild på småplantorna kommer i veckan!
 

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Parameter

Well-known member
No. Charcoal only mixed in locally with the soil on the plot.

Chalk also over the edges in the same amount like you already did do on the surface of the plot.

I need you to understand the principle: Chalk raises the PH, and keeps on raising it. Charcoal neutralizes/absorbs/buffers/stabilizes the surplus releasing chalk PH down to where it should be in combination with your cow manure.

Hope this helps. But feel free to ask questions in case you are not sure about something.

I want you to succeed as much as you want it yourself. And you'll be getting the full explanation on top as well.

Much is about putting the puzzle together in order to know what you are doing.

Ok! I’ll do that. I appreciate your help. I have two other spots but those already have the right pH in the ground. That I’m sure about. There are growing lots of nettles on the both spots with leaf trees. No pine forest.
 

Parameter

Well-known member
Idag preppade jag grop nummer två. Eventuellt blir det även en tredje grop i samma storlek (~200-300l) beroende på tid/ork. Jorden på plats är ganska bra och jag har hittills bara tillsatt 15 liter bokashi i botten av varje grop och myllat ner dött gräs, fladdermusguano och benmjöl. Jag kommer eventuellt tillsätta lite kompost och någon säck gödsel också, mest för att få lite mer mull i groparna och fluffa till det hela vid utplantering.
jag passade även på att sprida lite ferramol på och runt groparna för att få en tjuvstart mot sniglarna. Jag urinerade på buskar och spred även benmjöl runt området för att skrämma bort kaniner och för att rävar och dylikt inte ska gräva i groparna. Bild på småplantorna kommer i veckan!

Bra jobbat. Ser fram emot att följa din odling. Önskar dig all lycka.
 

Parameter

Well-known member
No. Charcoal only mixed in locally with the soil on the plot.

Chalk also over the edges in the same amount like you already did do on the surface of the plot.

I need you to understand the principle: Chalk raises the PH, and keeps on raising it. Charcoal neutralizes/absorbs/buffers/stabilizes the surplus releasing chalk PH down to where it should be in combination with your cow manure.

Hope this helps. But feel free to ask questions in case you are not sure about something.

I want you to succeed as much as you want it yourself. And you'll be getting the full explanation on top as well.

Much is about putting the puzzle together in order to know what you are doing.

I went out today and went for some wood ash hunting. I found a public grilling place where the commune/county supplies the wood and that people use fore grilling or making a fire. So I collected 3 litres approximately. I suspect it’s mixed with ordinary charcoal since people also bring their own charcoal and use it.

Now to my question. Should apply I the 2-3 decilitre of the wood ash as you said or maybe less since I already have applied the chalk?

I did some research on the net and saw that it’s also fertilises the soil. Do you think I should also use it on the other spots with right pH since it’s fertilises the soil? Or it maybe will fuck up the pH?
 

Tricko

Active member
Hei naboer!

Jeg prøvde meg på en liten norsk tråd, men ser ikke ut til at det er så mange av oss her enda. Ble invitert over hit og takker for det.
I år skal jeg utvide spotten fra i fjor og plante 20-30 autoflowere. Frøene er en hjemmelaget kryssning av lowryder, northern lights og ak47 som viser seg å fungere greit ute i Norge.
 

offthehook

Well-known member
Veteran
I went out today and went for some wood ash hunting. I found a public grilling place where the commune/county supplies the wood and that people use fore grilling or making a fire. So I collected 3 litres approximately. I suspect it’s mixed with ordinary charcoal since people also bring their own charcoal and use it.

Now to my question. Should apply I the 2-3 decilitre of the wood ash as you said or maybe less since I already have applied the chalk? Yes, the wood ash is still good to have in addition to the chalk, so then ya just keep it at the lower dose of 2 deciliter per 100 liter, and then make sure that the whole mix, including the soil with cow manure, goes into the lower half of your plot.

I did some research on the net and saw that it’s also fertilises the soil. Do you think I should also use it on the other spots with right pH since it’s fertilises the soil? Or it maybe will fuck up the pH?
You did not say which one you researched. The Wood Ash or the Bio Char ?

Wood ash does fertilize the soil yes. I think it is good to have it mixed in on your other plots as well. But for playing it safe, it needs to be mixed in with your cow manure soil.

Bio Char itself does not fertilize the soil, but it will contain a rich microbic soil life that will efficiently convert the cow manure into plant nutrients.

> So yes, Bio Char is also good to have on your other plots.
 

Parameter

Well-known member
You did not say which one you researched. The Wood Ash or the Bio Char ?

Wood ash does fertilize the soil yes. I think it is good to have it mixed in on your other plots as well. But for playing it safe, it needs to be mixed in with your cow manure soil.

Bio Char itself does not fertilize the soil, but it will contain a rich microbic soil life that will efficiently convert the cow manure into plant nutrients.

> So yes, Bio Char is also good to have on your other plots.

I researched wood ash and that’s what I mainly have. It’s wood ash mixed with very little bio char but mostly like I said wood ash. I have around 3 litres.

OK, then I put that on all my spots. I also have cow manure on all spots.

Thank you for your help.
 

Parameter

Well-known member
Hei naboer!

Jeg prøvde meg på en liten norsk tråd, men ser ikke ut til at det er så mange av oss her enda. Ble invitert over hit og takker for det.
I år skal jeg utvide spotten fra i fjor og plante 20-30 autoflowere. Frøene er en hjemmelaget kryssning av lowryder, northern lights og ak47 som viser seg å fungere greit ute i Norge.

Trevligt! Antar att det är regular frön? Har du börjat förbereda marken som du ska odla på? Såg att du odlade bredvid en stor sten förra året.

I Norge är cannabis mycket dyrt och jag förstår att man måste odla sitt eget bruk.
 

Chemimbalance

Well-known member
Hei naboer!

Jeg prøvde meg på en liten norsk tråd, men ser ikke ut til at det er så mange av oss her enda. Ble invitert over hit og takker for det.
I år skal jeg utvide spotten fra i fjor og plante 20-30 autoflowere. Frøene er en hjemmelaget kryssning av lowryder, northern lights og ak47 som viser seg å fungere greit ute i Norge.

Varmt välkommen! Det låter som en spännande korsning du har där och det ska bli spännande att följa dig. Utöver mina photoperiod-strain som jag nämnde i en tidigare post så kommer jag odla Super Lemon haze auto och Diesel ryder, men dessa planterar jag nog först om ett par veckor. Är det någon som vet om det är okej att göra frön på en planta från feminiserad frön? Mina SLH auto är nämligen feminiserade och jag skulle gärna göra lite frön på dom, men inte om det resulterar i hermisar eller andra hemskheter.

Jag vet inte vad reglerna är på detta forum men om det inte är mot reglerna så byter jag gärna lite frön med folk från tråden när säsongen är slut
 
Hej allihopa! Ska i veckan till min spot och preppa lite. Än så länge har jag endast en spot till mina thypoons så jag tänker att jag lägger 3 st och får se vilka kön de får. Om det blir hanar + honor blir det fröodling. Ska köpa hönsnät då jag sett vildsvin i trakten. Till frågan, tror ni 50 cm höga nät räcker? Jag antar att vildsvinen endast är intresserade av jorden på spoten så om jag omringar hela spoten med nät kanske det räcker? Vad tror ni?

Mvh
 

Parameter

Well-known member
Varmt välkommen! Det låter som en spännande korsning du har där och det ska bli spännande att följa dig. Utöver mina photoperiod-strain som jag nämnde i en tidigare post så kommer jag odla Super Lemon haze auto och Diesel ryder, men dessa planterar jag nog först om ett par veckor. Är det någon som vet om det är okej att göra frön på en planta från feminiserad frön? Mina SLH auto är nämligen feminiserade och jag skulle gärna göra lite frön på dom, men inte om det resulterar i hermisar eller andra hemskheter.

Jag vet inte vad reglerna är på detta forum men om det inte är mot reglerna så byter jag gärna lite frön med folk från tråden när säsongen är slut

Jag har gjort frön på feminiserade sorter och det funkade. Tror inte man kanske ska odla en ny strain men vill man bara göra frön och använda dom själv så är det lugnt.

Tror ”offthehook” kan svara på den där frågan bättre än jag. Ställ en direkt fråga till han här på engelska.

Skaffa dig 50 inlägg och sen kan du PMa.

edit: nu är jag ingen breeder utan gör frön till mig själv. Men vad jag förstått så stress testar seriösa breeders sina honor för att just förhindra hermies. Tror det var mycket så förut att feminiserade frön kunde blir hermisar. För då lät man honan själv pollinera vilket i praktiken betydde att man avlade på hermies tendenser.
 

Parameter

Well-known member
Hej allihopa! Ska i veckan till min spot och preppa lite. Än så länge har jag endast en spot till mina thypoons så jag tänker att jag lägger 3 st och får se vilka kön de får. Om det blir hanar + honor blir det fröodling. Ska köpa hönsnät då jag sett vildsvin i trakten. Till frågan, tror ni 50 cm höga nät räcker? Jag antar att vildsvinen endast är intresserade av jorden på spoten så om jag omringar hela spoten med nät kanske det räcker? Vad tror ni?

Mvh

Minst 1m och robusta stolpar. Använd inte blodmjöl eller benmjöl. Jag har exakt samma problem. Dom där jävla svinen!
 

offthehook

Well-known member
Veteran
Translation results

Does anyone know if it is okay to make seeds on a plant from feminized seeds? My SLH autos are feminized and I would like to make some seeds on them, but not if it results in hermis or other horrors. Does anyone know if it is okay to make seeds on a plant from feminized seeds? My SLH autos are feminized and I would like to make some seeds on them, but not if it results in hermis or other horrors. (...)

I think "offthehook" can answer that question better than I do. Ask him a direct question here in English. Get 50 posts and then you can PMa. edit: now I'm not a breeder but make seeds for myself. But from what I understand, stress tests serious breeders' females to prevent hermies. Think it was a lot so before that feminized seeds could become hermits. Because then the female was allowed to pollinate herself, which in practice meant that she bred on hermies' tendencies.

Parameter already answered your question very well.

There is this difference between Feminized seeds and Female seeds.
If the breeder has made Female seeds, then you are good to go and don't have to worry about hermis.
If they are of Feminized stock, then these are prone to hermies if the breeder has not done a real good selection for true females.
So you would need to get to the breeder of your SLH auto's to figure this out, or else it is just trial and error.
 

Chemimbalance

Well-known member
Translation results

Does anyone know if it is okay to make seeds on a plant from feminized seeds? My SLH autos are feminized and I would like to make some seeds on them, but not if it results in hermis or other horrors. Does anyone know if it is okay to make seeds on a plant from feminized seeds? My SLH autos are feminized and I would like to make some seeds on them, but not if it results in hermis or other horrors. (...)

I think "offthehook" can answer that question better than I do. Ask him a direct question here in English. Get 50 posts and then you can PMa. edit: now I'm not a breeder but make seeds for myself. But from what I understand, stress tests serious breeders' females to prevent hermies. Think it was a lot so before that feminized seeds could become hermits. Because then the female was allowed to pollinate herself, which in practice meant that she bred on hermies' tendencies.

Parameter already answered your question very well.

There is this difference between Feminized seeds and Female seeds.
If the breeder has made Female seeds, then you are good to go and don't have to worry about hermis.
If they are of Feminized stock, then these are prone to hermies if the breeder has not done a real good selection for true females.
So you would need to get to the breeder of your SLH auto's to figure this out, or else it is just trial and error.

Thanks guys! It's feminised seeds from Green House Seed. I guess i'll just have to go with the good old trial and error then :)
 

Alotofgreen

New member
Hej hörni! I sommar blir det 20 autos allihop i 30 liters krukor, hade föredragit en bädd rakt ner i jorden med täckodling men dessvärre så har jag inte tillgång till ett sådant ställe just nu men har ett fint ställe med full sol helt ostört och otillgängligt, dessvärre berg därav krukor. Kommer odla 2 olika cbd strains CBD Purple Kush Automatic och CBD 1:1 Purple Kush Automatic från Nordic Genetics. Tänkte dela med mig av hela resan från sådd till skörd, kanske lite bilder också. Ska bli spännande att få följa era odlingar. ☘🌻🌞
 

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