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Active member
Exciting!But thanks on the heads up, i will test the app today to see how its going
Peace
Exciting!But thanks on the heads up, i will test the app today to see how its going
Peace
Btw Mr. Dots, on the app each of them on high cri led 3000k around 700 to 750 ppfd, on 350k the same but in the 600's.Exciting!
I have 3500k led boards and I use the 3000k high cri setting. I've compared the app on 2 different phones and the results stayed consistent, as well when I compare to my lux meter.Btw Mr. Dots, on the app each of them on high cri led 3000k around 700 to 750 ppfd, on 350k the same but in the 600's.
What you said about the leafs pointing up applys to what i said about them pointing the stronger scource? I didnt want to pass the message of a newb know it all, if thst was the case dont take it bad because it wasnt my intention..
Peace
If i remember right, something around 50's and it was on red, i didnt forget to input the hours. I didnt move the light since they born tho, im thinking on raising a notch to see if they stretch a little bit and dont be that squaty.I have 3500k led boards and I use the 3000k high cri setting. I've compared the app on 2 different phones and the results stayed consistent, as well when I compare to my lux meter.
Not at all my friend, I like your thread because of discussion and comparing and learning.. !!
If it wasn't for @exploziv I wouldn't have tightened up my VPD and now I'm getting better results.. especially in veg, which needed less light veg is very green and happy these days.
So 750ppfd and what is the DLI/mols per day? I don't have experience with autos so I'm not sure what is good for the stage you're at..
Ps looking great, those big ones look a little hungry maybe
Pps the aloe is a chelator so it binds with nutrients to help transport them, like calcium to the growing tips.. calcium is fairly immobile..
Well I leant to autos there is no limit just give as much light as possible. Don't raise the light you'll slow them down.. 750ppfd is goodIf i remember right, something around 50's and it was on red, i didnt forget to input the hours. I didnt move the light since they born tho, im thinking on raising a notch to see if they stretch a little bit and dont be that squaty.
Yes lots of co2 there.. if it makes it to the garden.. and because not many plants they won't deplete it quickly.Thing is, i live in an apartment with 4 cats, one dog, 3 people total. I guess we all contribute a little to it, never measured co2 and im not interested for now to be honest, but the logic its there i think.
If you want to test the plant health check the Brix with a refractometer.. when I was consistent with bio-stim foliar and drenches, plants would ooze sweet sap when I cut them..Thanks Mr. Dots and thanks on the compliments, and believe me, i know how explo influences people and since you like to discuss...
I run Yara as you know..some could say its low in micros. Comercially it makes since since they sell a bunch of foliars and also iron to tweak.
For now i think they are not lacking anything regarding micros i think, and then it enters the logic of the ratios.
Post the question in advanced botany sub or ask @f-eIf they are good things work, play with them at different stages and things still work/"work", they lack or have excess raise or low ec, i get all of that logic.
Thing is, i for example, i insert jacks recipe or athena pro line, and i get pretty similar in all aspects except one and always one, iron. They all seem to run iron high, way higher than what i could possibly get with my line.
What i want to ask you, if you know, is why?
I'm a bit afraid to mess with micros because they required in such tiny amounts.. I take what I can get in my base nutes and bio-stim.And then the following question; since i have iron dtpa, do you think my plants would look better if i aim to similar marks of other brands?
I think i could calculate things to maintain the ratios while giving more iron, thing i dont get is why. On the praised mulders chart there is a bunch of things pushing iron, i get the logic of them running it higher but i dont get the logic when im running the rest simillar and they dont look that bad. I know micros are important in a miriad of aspects, but i wonder how would they look in a similar range
Thank u too bro.I know about the good effects of Aloe, for what iv saw online between the millions of different informations, i think i have the right one and its free , could be better well maitained tho, i thought about feeding in watering but i leave that to other day.
Btw regarding the calcium and they being hungry, yeah, since day one. Learning curve takes its time but i guess they could be worse if they are indeed being pushed a bit on the hard side in light aspect and environmental too.
But i dont want the foliar to fix that. That i want fixed in the waterings. Thats why im thinking on tweaking things around the water report of the company, i think i will aim better the mg ratio and start chansing defficiences because of the different requirements and not from me not feeding them right. If boron indeed helps them move calcium in them, then its something i want to foliar in stretch and see if its not needed to up ca, just help them move it better, that, the biostimulants i used until now and ipm im interested on foliars, nutrients per se to fix things, not so much, im lazy.
Thanks again bro
Peace
Don't be helpful and we won't mention youSince you guys like to talk so much, and also mentioned me a lot, I want to say last grow I tried to keep all canopy over 1000 and most tops were over 1200 ppfd (acording to that app). @............. , you saying I could have kept the light further away and get same results on a bigger surface, since I don't use CO2?
Dont have one, dont pretend to buy now..but i remember that sap flowing on my previous root aphid infested Kali China, real sweetIf you want to test the plant health check the Brix with a refractometer.. when I was consistent with bio-stim foliar and drenches, plants would ooze sweet sap when I cut them..
Sounds a nice product to diy something similar..i think i could also get the b12, but it was easy just by calnit and boric acid..maybe ill try it, i heard boron in flowering could make them finish faster (i think it was boron), maybe handy on long ass sativas..All I can say is I almost bought this once..
Yeah, already someone told me the same, i think with hydrobuddy and the targeted ec by doing concentrations could be easier..also its ones of the reasons why i dont get fulvics yet, fulvics with micros, fulvics with aminos, just fulvics..I'm a bit afraid to mess with micros because they required in such tiny amounts.. I take what I can get in my base nutes and bio-stim
You are another one that likes to talk a lotSince you guys like to talk so much, and also mentioned me a lot, I want to say last grow I tried to keep all canopy over 1000 and most tops were over 1200 ppfd (acording to that app). @............. , you saying I could have kept the light further away and get same results on a bigger surface, since I don't use CO2?
Thanks to join in bro, i like how you drop your wisdom @f-eFe deficiency is reasonably common. It's uptake is antagonised a lot by Ca. Where a feed might be used in Calcium fortified soils or coco, a bit more might be needed than in hydro. Hydro feeds formulated for tap may expect a lot of the needed Fe to come from the tap. Making the use of soft water an issue. Nearly every calmag booster contains Fe in the smallprint. Excess Fe mostly balances against Ca, hence they come together. Fe also acts against P, but the quantities of each mean we really won't see that. Having seen many labels, but having been nowhere near an AG college, I see 3.5ppm as a safe upper limit. Quite a few feeds run that high, but some run half of that and are for calcium rich soils. It doesn't seem necessary to run 3.5ppm but running that covers any likely Fe need. I have seen hydro labels below 1ppm, and used them with moderately hard water.
Of all the small stuff, Fe deserves a better look. It's regularly seen. The Canna trace mix has all the other small stuff, but leaves the Fe to be addressed separately.
It's cheap and easily obtained in chelated forms. The wise move is to look at your Ca. If you are adjusting your Ca upwards, then the Fe should follow.
I'm not sure about that co2 graph. Seeing the source would be interesting. I can't place it against other canna studies.
Thanks @gizmo666, the kiss method is for growing, jumping in to share what you think on it, join tha "We Newbin" and get free of your worries btw the skunk you talked about, your lettuceall that talk about ppfd baffles me i stick to the kiss method so i'll not jump in lol
your plants are looking excellent sampas the growth on the skunk is coming on(i tend to favour runts lol)
i bet it produces some cracking buds
Again, thanks bro.I hoped you wouldn't ask, but knew you would have to lol
There just hasn't been enough work done on this. We are still looking at the N P K Ca Mg end of things, with little done on sulphur. Fe might take a while. People are still looking at the big stuff. We can see things like Mn problems at the end, but just don't have any real studies. Back to the Canna Trace Mix. It says 1-2ml per liter. At 1ml per liter, it is about 10x stronger than their general purpose feeds supply. So, while their feeds should work, they feel adding 10-20 times more is viable. Not with Fe though. That 1ml would only double Fe.
I was just in another post. He's asking about his calmag, and offering a full printout of the stuff. For every 10 Ca it added 1 Fe. That looked extreme to me. As a 100ppm Ca feed would generally be about 3ppm Fe. Finding any solid ratio's to work with from data sets like these is a non-starter. His calmag, used to add a reasonable 30ppm Ca, would add 3ppm Fe, which seems like a full load. With many feeds, over 7ppm Fe. I would get cautions at that, especially if more comes from the tap.
It's proving difficult to give you a straight answer, with all the Fe and Ca sources at play.
Your zinc is low. Zn studies in other crops show it's remarkably important. Like 30% of the yield. They have been hitting them hard in testing, with foliar applications twice per outdoor season. It's again, difficult to bring the figures over. Though 0.1ppm is really quite low. It also antagonises Fe, but with 3.5ppm Fe you can at least get to 0.5ppm Zn
Canna Terra Grow : Fe0.7 Zn0.25 B0.25 Cu0.05 Mn0.5 Mo0.05
Canna Terra Bloom: Fe0.7 Zn0.3 B0.3 Cu0.05 Mn0.55 Mo0.05
Similar, but 10% more Mn, which is more pronounced in the trace mix. Zn and B also get raised almost 25%. It's small change. Perhaps due to sources of other things. It's still interesting though. Zn is flower and seed formation stuff. B is a huge player in Calcium usage, which is harder for our plants to get after stretch. It does make sense, and they do real business at Canna. Tissue sampling labs and everything.
Looking at that last printout, quite a lot of your trace stuff is a lot lower than other bottles I have looked over. I have used the moulder charts and I don't see any problems with bumping Zn and Fe but I do look at how low it all is, and think a more holistic approach might be better.
Thanks on the kindness bro, but its a long way to that excellent job. I want hard critics, i dont want peace, i want problems, alwaysExcellent job bro !!!
Ok bro ,Thanks on the kindness bro, but its a long way to that excellent job. I want hard critics, i dont want peace, i want problems, always
Peace