Y
YosemiteSam
Thanks...I missed the pressure relief valves significance...DOH. You are more than one step ahead of the average stoner my friend.
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M
micro gro
Sam's formula
Sam's formula
More equipment in.
Pumps:
Ballasts:
Food restock. Not messin' around:
Just more of everything:
You know what I'm talking about, Sam's formula.
Sam's formula
More equipment in.
Pumps:
Ballasts:
Food restock. Not messin' around:
Just more of everything:
You know what I'm talking about, Sam's formula.
That Santa Fe dehumi is pretty expensive, yet is I think one of the cheapest at its quality level. What's been your experience with it? Do you do HEPA filtration as well, for mold control? What Relative Humidity do you keep? Some people on here advocate lowering it as much as your equipment allows, but I thought that for growth, RH should be between 60-70%. Any thoughts?
this is way cool nice work slamin those rooms up cant wait to see the pile of nugs u get
M
micro gro
rambam, that's about how I feel in terms of the Santa Fe's pricing... much higher than your typical portable room dehumidifier, yet at the "affordable" end of the homeowner dehumidifiers. I've looked at other, bigger commercial units such as the Ebac's and seems that the Classic was what fit the bill. My previous experience on dehumidifiers consists only of portable dehumidifiers ranging from 40 to 70 pints in capacity (Hydrofarm, Kenmore, and LG), and simply adding another unit when more dehumidifying capacity was needed.
I was sold on the Santa Fe mainly from input / feedback received from the online community. So far I'm pretty happy with it in terms of the amount of water it puts out, and appears to do at least what it's been rated to do. That said, RH is a tad higher than I'd like it to be... and will definitely need more capacity in a week.
I agree that 50-60% is better for growth, and you will certainly see it; but sometimes sheer plant growth isn't the only thing you're looking for, as those conditions can also lead to undesirable types of growth such as mold.
JACKtheREEFER, thanks... that's what we do. Can't wait to see the same.
Organic O, I'm ashamed to say it but yes I've messed and dabbled with Advanced Nutrients in the past... especially towards the beginning of my growing adventures, when I was extra susceptible to such marketing tactics and ploys.
I was sold on the Santa Fe mainly from input / feedback received from the online community. So far I'm pretty happy with it in terms of the amount of water it puts out, and appears to do at least what it's been rated to do. That said, RH is a tad higher than I'd like it to be... and will definitely need more capacity in a week.
I agree that 50-60% is better for growth, and you will certainly see it; but sometimes sheer plant growth isn't the only thing you're looking for, as those conditions can also lead to undesirable types of growth such as mold.
JACKtheREEFER, thanks... that's what we do. Can't wait to see the same.
Organic O, I'm ashamed to say it but yes I've messed and dabbled with Advanced Nutrients in the past... especially towards the beginning of my growing adventures, when I was extra susceptible to such marketing tactics and ploys.
How many man hours per week does it take to maintain a setup like this? Excluding trim and buildout.
i just switched to coco mix from straight up supersoil (smacks forehead) and see that my plants are loving this shit already. gonna do 25 per light in 1-2 gal bags with a week veg...inspired by you my friend! can't wait to pass my mentor's yields. he'll say i'm retarded for doing so many plants but i guess i'm a risk taker.
i just switched to coco mix from straight up supersoil (smacks forehead) and see that my plants are loving this shit already. gonna do 25 per light in 1-2 gal bags with a week veg...inspired by you my friend! can't wait to pass my mentor's yields. he'll say i'm retarded for doing so many plants but i guess i'm a risk taker.
Dr.Seuscio
New member
Awesome and inspiring I have read up and will be pulling up a chair for this one.
Question: With those big 125 gal tanks. How do you clean them? And how often
Also do you re-circulate your run-off? Or let it go down the drain.
Great work
-Seuscio
Question: With those big 125 gal tanks. How do you clean them? And how often
Also do you re-circulate your run-off? Or let it go down the drain.
Great work
-Seuscio
M
micro gro
MedGuy510, rough estimate of about an average of 10 man hours per week (less than an hour a day, average). Obviously this depends on the week... the first (planting, trimming, etc) week is fairly intensive, but for the most part smooth sailing after that in a setup like this with the combined experience of our team. Harvesting is fairly intensive as well, but I guess that falls under "trimming"?
rambam, obviously, as you've stated, preventative measures is the key to running and maintaining a healthy, pest and disease-free grow. With a sealed room, it's that much easier to control the environment and not introduce outside factors such as spores & bugs. With proper HEPA filtration, this is possible with unsealed rooms as well. However, sometimes that's just not enough; we've recently found that SM-90 is excellent in PM prevention, as well as the traditional early sulfur burning.
Hope that wasn't too vague. If you'd like me to elaborate or have question on anything in particular, please ask. It's not like we've never experienced pests, diseases and other sicknesses (including nute issues)... in fact been through just about every one.
Dr. Seuscio, they're 275 gallons. With one of those fancy brooms with a brush on one side and sponge on the other. Whenever I feel that the nute rings are too thick (usually from Floralicious+). Keep in mind that this is a drain-to-waste application, no recirculated nutes or other debris floating around.
rambam, obviously, as you've stated, preventative measures is the key to running and maintaining a healthy, pest and disease-free grow. With a sealed room, it's that much easier to control the environment and not introduce outside factors such as spores & bugs. With proper HEPA filtration, this is possible with unsealed rooms as well. However, sometimes that's just not enough; we've recently found that SM-90 is excellent in PM prevention, as well as the traditional early sulfur burning.
Hope that wasn't too vague. If you'd like me to elaborate or have question on anything in particular, please ask. It's not like we've never experienced pests, diseases and other sicknesses (including nute issues)... in fact been through just about every one.
Dr. Seuscio, they're 275 gallons. With one of those fancy brooms with a brush on one side and sponge on the other. Whenever I feel that the nute rings are too thick (usually from Floralicious+). Keep in mind that this is a drain-to-waste application, no recirculated nutes or other debris floating around.
B
Brazilianfire
Hey micro excellent grow you got going amazing idea on that compressor box led me to ask you a few questions. lol
im upgrading my 8k room to a 12k room im removing the air cooled lights and using open hoods i plan on using a 4 ton unit thats 4000btu's per light also using a co2 as well. question about your ac is did your unit come pre charged and did you have to vacuum the lines? if so how did you vacuum them cause that equipment and no how isnt cheap my friend. all mini splits i have seen thus far have to be vacuumed but come pre charged. theres only one i seen so far its 12000btu way to small but comes vacuumed and pre charged from the factory!
how did you do this cause i plan on running the unit just like you did in a compressor box and cant have a HVAC pro come out.
thanks
bless
im upgrading my 8k room to a 12k room im removing the air cooled lights and using open hoods i plan on using a 4 ton unit thats 4000btu's per light also using a co2 as well. question about your ac is did your unit come pre charged and did you have to vacuum the lines? if so how did you vacuum them cause that equipment and no how isnt cheap my friend. all mini splits i have seen thus far have to be vacuumed but come pre charged. theres only one i seen so far its 12000btu way to small but comes vacuumed and pre charged from the factory!
how did you do this cause i plan on running the unit just like you did in a compressor box and cant have a HVAC pro come out.
thanks
bless
M
micro gro
Yes, the unit came pre-charged with refrigerant (most if not all consumer units do nowadays it seems), and yes, the lineset was vacuum'd / evacuated. A vacuum pump can be had for $80 - $150 from Harbor Freight, and manifold gauges can be had from places like eBay, etc. Don't confuse the term "pre-charged" with "vacuum'd" or otherwise. It just means that the compressor unit has enough refrigerant (say, R410A) to run the unit + fill a certain length of lineset. Also don't confuse vacuuming / evacuating with pre-charging with nitrogen.
If you can't have a HVAC pro come out, I suggest you learn how to do it yourself and become comfortable with the process. With mini-split's, this is typically much more user-friendly, with flared quick-connect fittings (instead of the typical sweat fittings on larger, non-mini units) which means a pair of wrenches, some Teflon tape, and (optionally but highly recommended) vacuum pump and manifold gauge.
The process goes something like: connect air handler to compressor unit with lineset, evacuate (vacuum & verify), turn service valve (releases refrigerant into lines), connect units with thermostat wire, connect drain, power, ...
If you can't have a HVAC pro come out, I suggest you learn how to do it yourself and become comfortable with the process. With mini-split's, this is typically much more user-friendly, with flared quick-connect fittings (instead of the typical sweat fittings on larger, non-mini units) which means a pair of wrenches, some Teflon tape, and (optionally but highly recommended) vacuum pump and manifold gauge.
The process goes something like: connect air handler to compressor unit with lineset, evacuate (vacuum & verify), turn service valve (releases refrigerant into lines), connect units with thermostat wire, connect drain, power, ...
M
micro gro
Pics of the multi-zone damper system going up.
Oh some plant material:
Oh some plant material:
I've always wanted to see someone use those dampers on a flip flop. Good shit, bro.
B
Brazilianfire
fuckin A micro u are smart at this shit...i need to learn how to do this properly as i hate aircooled lights and i need a bigger ac! i would like a 4 ton unit like you have but i have to buy a manifold gauge and a vacuum? once you vacuum the lines you dont have to add more refrigerant do you? and this is the first thing you do once you complete your line set before you hook up your thermostat power etc?
wish you were my personal bud show me how to get shit done around here!
is HVAC school long? lol this is something i need to do next month once i finish up this grow actually the end of this month. crap
wish you were my personal bud show me how to get shit done around here!
is HVAC school long? lol this is something i need to do next month once i finish up this grow actually the end of this month. crap
B
Brazilianfire
how hard is it to learn? "I suggest you learn how to do it yourself and become comfortable with the process." got me all nervous saying this! lol im pretty hands on and by far not lazy.
something i need to learn!
something i need to learn!
B
Brazilianfire
sorry for spamming your post micro....I have opened a new thread for this thanks for your help you can reply in the new thread if you like.
this instruction here says that pre charged refrigerant units do not require vacuuming.
Extract from Australia/NZ Codes of practice.
PART 1
6 Evacuation
This section refers to evacuation in the field only – not evacuation during the manufacturing
process.
As the systems covered by this code are supplied pre-charged with refrigerant there is
no need to evacuate the system upon installation. If evacuation is required at a later stage,
however, the following procedure must be followed:
6.1 Instructions must be followed if the system manufacturer has supplied instructions
for evacuation, except where the instructions specify a practice that will lead to
emission of refrigerant.
6.2 The system must be evacuated to less than 117 Pa absolute (900 microns of mercury)
if the system manufacturer has not supplied instructions with the system for
evacuation.
6.3 After the system has been evacuated the vacuum pump should be isolated from
the system. As a guide, with constant ambient conditions, the vacuum should not
rise more than 13 Pa (100 microns of mercury) in one hour. A greater rate of rise may
indicate a leak or the presence of moisture (see also 7.1.9).
6.4 Absolute vacuums must be measured using accurate measuring equipment selected for the specific application.
PART 2
6 Evacuation
This section refers to evacuation in the field only – not evacuation during the manufacturing process.
6.1 The manufacturer’s instructions for evacuation must be followed if the system is
factory-matched (ie: the manufacturer has supplied a matched evaporator and
condenser) and the manufacturer has supplied instructions with the system, except
where the instructions specify a practice that will lead to emission of refrigerant.
Provided the instructions do not specify a practice that will lead to emission of
refrigerant, if the manufacturer’s instructions are followed then the installation is
exempt from items 6.1.2 to 6.1.5.
The relevant parts of this section must be complied with if there are any parts of the
evacuation procedure not covered by the manufacturer’s instructions.
Installation of all other systems, or systems where manufacturer’s instructions are not
supplied, must comply with section 6 of this code in its entirety.
6.2 Evacuation should be carried out with dedicated evacuation hoses (large diameter
/ as short as practical) and gauges and not service manifolds / gauges.
6.3 The system must be evacuated to remove moisture and non-condensables after
determining that there are no refrigerant leaks when the system is pressurised,
6.4 Evacuation must be either the deep evacuation method, or triple evacuation using dry
nitrogen only as the moisture absorber, following the procedures described below.
Deep vacuum method: Pull a deep vacuum to a pressure of less than 65 Pa absolute
(500 microns of mercury). After isolating the vacuum pump, allow the system to stand for
60 minutes to ensure the vacuum is maintained at or below 78 Pa absolute (600 microns of mercury); OR
Triple evacuation method: Use a vacuum pump to pull a vacuum to a pressure
of at least 65 Pa absolute (500 microns of mercury). Break the vacuum with dry
nitrogen and allow the system to stand. Re-evacuate the system and repeat the
procedure twice more, breaking the vacuum each time with dry nitrogen.
this instruction here says that pre charged refrigerant units do not require vacuuming.
Extract from Australia/NZ Codes of practice.
PART 1
6 Evacuation
This section refers to evacuation in the field only – not evacuation during the manufacturing
process.
As the systems covered by this code are supplied pre-charged with refrigerant there is
no need to evacuate the system upon installation. If evacuation is required at a later stage,
however, the following procedure must be followed:
6.1 Instructions must be followed if the system manufacturer has supplied instructions
for evacuation, except where the instructions specify a practice that will lead to
emission of refrigerant.
6.2 The system must be evacuated to less than 117 Pa absolute (900 microns of mercury)
if the system manufacturer has not supplied instructions with the system for
evacuation.
6.3 After the system has been evacuated the vacuum pump should be isolated from
the system. As a guide, with constant ambient conditions, the vacuum should not
rise more than 13 Pa (100 microns of mercury) in one hour. A greater rate of rise may
indicate a leak or the presence of moisture (see also 7.1.9).
6.4 Absolute vacuums must be measured using accurate measuring equipment selected for the specific application.
PART 2
6 Evacuation
This section refers to evacuation in the field only – not evacuation during the manufacturing process.
6.1 The manufacturer’s instructions for evacuation must be followed if the system is
factory-matched (ie: the manufacturer has supplied a matched evaporator and
condenser) and the manufacturer has supplied instructions with the system, except
where the instructions specify a practice that will lead to emission of refrigerant.
Provided the instructions do not specify a practice that will lead to emission of
refrigerant, if the manufacturer’s instructions are followed then the installation is
exempt from items 6.1.2 to 6.1.5.
The relevant parts of this section must be complied with if there are any parts of the
evacuation procedure not covered by the manufacturer’s instructions.
Installation of all other systems, or systems where manufacturer’s instructions are not
supplied, must comply with section 6 of this code in its entirety.
6.2 Evacuation should be carried out with dedicated evacuation hoses (large diameter
/ as short as practical) and gauges and not service manifolds / gauges.
6.3 The system must be evacuated to remove moisture and non-condensables after
determining that there are no refrigerant leaks when the system is pressurised,
6.4 Evacuation must be either the deep evacuation method, or triple evacuation using dry
nitrogen only as the moisture absorber, following the procedures described below.
Deep vacuum method: Pull a deep vacuum to a pressure of less than 65 Pa absolute
(500 microns of mercury). After isolating the vacuum pump, allow the system to stand for
60 minutes to ensure the vacuum is maintained at or below 78 Pa absolute (600 microns of mercury); OR
Triple evacuation method: Use a vacuum pump to pull a vacuum to a pressure
of at least 65 Pa absolute (500 microns of mercury). Break the vacuum with dry
nitrogen and allow the system to stand. Re-evacuate the system and repeat the
procedure twice more, breaking the vacuum each time with dry nitrogen.
i give you 2 thumbs up, no wait 2 finger hash thumbs up! keep up the nice work you have done a really fine job, enjoy the fruits of your labor until next time keep it green!
M
micro gro
Excellent thread by lightmove on mini-split installation:
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=109576
(This is where I familiarized myself with the installation steps.)
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=109576
(This is where I familiarized myself with the installation steps.)
The joists are 2x6x20yoinks
When you say braced down the center, do you mean there is a brace going down the middle of the 18' span, in addition to the header topping the drywall struts around the periphery?
Also, since we're on the topic of A/C, do you have any concerns/thoughts about the exterior noise of your compressor exhaust?
I know this last one is a basic question, so forgive me: What are your specific reasons (other than saving a few weeks on veg) for using this Sea/Screen of Green method, as opposed to growing 4-6' trees? It occurs to me since you have the headroom to do the latter...
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