150w HPS Club and Resource Guide......

[darkvade420]

Sounds like you gonna be watering a lot. That, and the rockwool will let light in all over those precious roots. Imo, I'd use a method that works.

Btw I've been hella lazy, and haven't gotten any pics up yet, but still am wondering why my growth is so slow in veg? I'm sure the defoliation isn't the case, cause last grow it loved the defol.

Yea im expecting to water about 3 times -4 times each day. i have study up on it a tad bit looks like a great way to grow but im only going to do one plant like that in rockwool.also toying with the idea of doing one in coco in a drip bucket but i havent paid for the coco set up yet i might save that for my next grow.Im not to worried about the failure factor its all just for fun hobby for me.ill probley do one or 2 in soil as well.and good thinking about the roots ill need to come up with a plan about that.

 

[jpizle]

Any ideas on how to do that to the sun system? I found where they did it to hps security light. would the process be the same?I think next grow Im going with the vertical doughnut setup. It looks awesome and i think it would be perfect. And i just happened to just get off the phone wit a guy i know whos got a 400w HPS Security flood type light brand new for $50. I would have to make that one a remote ballast as well. Anyone know a thread where someone did a sun system remote ballast?

Yes it is the same process. Basically all your doin is extendin the wires goin to the bulb on one side and the power cord on the other to make a remote ballast setup. Its all Black/White/Green. How pretty u make the final rig is up to yer imagination. Ive seen em usin the original shell of the sec light to house to ballast and they grew just as good as mine in a big metal junction box w/vent holes. Im a lil OCD lol.

AND that is a hella deal on a 400. Another $20 or so in parts and you gotta nice setup. AND its magnetic(I asume) so u could mess around with CMH at sum point. Got a digi 400 on the way but cant run CMH....damnit.

HTH
pizle

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

Any ideas on how to do that to the sun system? I found where they did it to hps security light. would the process be the same?I think next grow Im going with the vertical doughnut setup. It looks awesome and i think it would be perfect. And i just happened to just get off the phone wit a guy i know whos got a 400w HPS Security flood type light brand new for $50. I would have to make that one a remote ballast as well. Anyone know a thread where someone did a sun system remote ballast?

Same concept as the security light.

Since you're considering vertical, you could use the hood for the ballast housing only.

If your lamp has a capacitor, be sure to properly discharge before servicing.

All you have to do is extend the two bulb wires as long as the setup requires.

To do that, detach the socket and wire assembly wires from the main harness. They're probably attached with wire nuts.

Extend the two wires with a predetermined length of 3 conductor, i.e. grounded cable (example, heavy-duty extension cord cable.) Attack the ground to the ballast frame and something metal at or near the bulb.

If you have to cut the two lamp wires, leave enough slack on either side so you can prep the leads and attach wire nuts securely.

 

[cl0ud]

Matt

I just took my sun system apart. Remove all screws on the side/top and the ballast tray just slides out.

jpizle/Disco

I'm just going to leave all components in the tray as is with the top off and place that on top of my tent (outside) - perhaps on a small cooling rack. Would this be safe? My only concern is that the ignitor reads "lamp distance max. 2 ft from ballast."
I was going to wire an extension cord to the white and black wires I disconnected from the socket in order to lengthen them. However, I want to run a vertical bulb so I'm just going to use this:http://www.bghydro.com/mmBGH/Images/HLLASASSC.jpg
I can just cut the male end off, make my black and white connections and ground the green on a screw somewhere on the ballast housing. Would this be cool?
Forgot to ask - do I have to connect the green coming from the socket cable to the green from the power cord? The green from the power end is already grounded on a screw on the ballast tray. Can I just ground the green from the socket cable to another screw nearby? Sorry for the questions man.

All the best

 

[darkvade420]

Matt

I just took my sun system apart. Remove all screws on the side/top and the ballast tray just slides out.

jpizle/Disco

I'm just going to leave all components in the tray as is with the top off and place that on top of my tent (outside) - perhaps on a small cooling rack. Would this be safe? My only concern is that the ignitor reads "lamp distance max. 2 ft from ballast."
I was going to wire an extension cord to the white and black wires I disconnected from the socket in order to lengthen them. However, I want to run a vertical bulb so I'm just going to use this:http://www.bghydro.com/mmBGH/Images/HLLASASSC.jpg
I can just cut the male end off, make my black and white connections and ground the green on a screw somewhere on the ballast housing. Would this be cool?
Forgot to ask - do I have to connect the green coming from the socket cable to the green from the power cord? The green from the power end is already grounded on a screw on the ballast tray. Can I just ground the green from the socket cable to another screw nearby? Sorry for the questions man.

All the best

Green is ground wich means is made to connect to metal the only reason its hooked to your balast and not hooked to you wall is cause they cant fit a wall in a 150 hps box lol and they also expect you to use the lamp they made for the consumer.im pretty sure some people have made youtube vids on this topic might want to check it out and get step by step visual assistance just so you know the exact proccess.

 

[mattkilla420]

Same concept as the security light.

Since you're considering vertical, you could use the hood for the ballast housing only.

If your lamp has a capacitor, be sure to properly discharge before servicing.

All you have to do is extend the two bulb wires as long as the setup requires.

To do that, detach the socket and wire assembly wires from the main harness. They're probably attached with wire nuts.

Extend the two wires with a predetermined length of 3 conductor, i.e. grounded cable (example, heavy-duty extension cord cable.) Attack the ground to the ballast frame and something metal at or near the bulb.

If you have to cut the two lamp wires, leave enough slack on either side so you can prep the leads and attach wire nuts securely.

Thanks Vader and everyone for the replies. Seems like a simple enough task. How do u discharge the capacitor???. Idk if I'm gonna do this yet or not. Anybody see a prob in switching to doughnut grow half way thru??

what I think I'm gonna do just talked to my pal with the hps lights. I don't Want the power bill going up a crazy amount so I think in gonna just add a 250 to the 150 I already have he wants 35 bucks for it. I know the other is a better deal I don't want all that wattage. If If I did that I would have the two hooded lights side by side and would be no need to remote the ballast unless heat becomes an issue. This is my plan because in outgrowing my light and need get something in there fast. Heres a shot of them last night View attachment 163787

Thanks again for help my pal who has lights is an electrician. So maybe he will help me tomorrow if needed if not I consult you guys.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

Matt

I just took my sun system apart. Remove all screws on the side/top and the ballast tray just slides out.

jpizle/Disco

I'm just going to leave all components in the tray as is with the top off and place that on top of my tent (outside) - perhaps on a small cooling rack. Would this be safe? My only concern is that the ignitor reads "lamp distance max. 2 ft from ballast."
I was going to wire an extension cord to the white and black wires I disconnected from the socket in order to lengthen them. However, I want to run a vertical bulb so I'm just going to use this:http://www.bghydro.com/mmBGH/Images/HLLASASSC.jpg
I can just cut the male end off, make my black and white connections and ground the green on a screw somewhere on the ballast housing. Would this be cool?
Forgot to ask - do I have to connect the green coming from the socket cable to the green from the power cord? The green from the power end is already grounded on a screw on the ballast tray. Can I just ground the green from the socket cable to another screw nearby? Sorry for the questions man.

All the best

Does it have a cap? If so, be careful not to touch the leads. Would be best to discharge if you're gonna service.

If you plan to leave the cover off, make sure nothing's laying around to fall into it. Dust could eventually be a problem, if nothing more than the smell.

I'd cut the male end of the extension cord off but leave the cut long enough to remote your lamp.

For the ballast, the extension cable only has to be ~10 or 12" (with the female socket attached.) That way you can unplug the lamp from the ballast like manufactured jobs.

The ignitor might be a problem. I'd order a rated ignitor that's capable of striking the bulb at the distance you need. The ignitor probably has part info on the housing. You could call a electrical supplier on the phone and ask for a replacement for the distance you need.

You can attach the ground to the same screw or another screw, so long as it's unpainted metal.

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

Thanks Vader and everyone for the replies. Seems like a simple enough task. How do u discharge the capacitor???.

See if your electrician friend knows how to discharge a cap with a plastic or rubber handle screwdriver. Check with cloud, sun systems might not have a cap.

Idk if I'm gonna do this yet or not. Anybody see a prob in switching to doughnut grow half way thru??

Cloud said the ignitor is rated for only 2 feet. You may want to get a rated ignitor to be on the safe side. Otherwise, I'd consider finishing this grow and then converting.

what I think I'm gonna do just talked to my pal with the hps lights. I don't Want the power bill going up a crazy amount so I think in gonna just add a 250 to the 150 I already have he wants 35 bucks for it. I know the other is a better deal I don't want all that wattage. If If I did that I would have the two hooded lights side by side and would be no need to remote the ballast unless heat becomes an issue. This is my plan because in outgrowing my light and need get something in there fast. Heres a shot of them last night View attachment 163787

Thanks again for help my pal who has lights is an electrician. So maybe he will help me tomorrow if needed if not I consult you guys.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2

Each setup delivers 50wpsf over the same, eight square foot area. The up side on the 400 is better penetration than 250 + 150.

An upside with the 250 +150 might be linear distribution. A 400 element isn't very long so two bulbs might be better for vertical.

With a decent reflector or hood, the 400 would make for a nice horizontal setup. Best wishes.


Vert setups are bad on the eyes. Try to turn off the bulb before gardening or get some dark safety glasses.

 

[jpizle]

You must spread some reputation around before giving it to DiscoBiscuit again.

Damn you Disco! You beat me to it. LOL j/k

I would think the 250 or 400 does have a cap, seems like most security lights 250 and up have them. So businesses can have more lights per circuit. And it will light your ass up if yer not careful.

The ignitor in my 150 said the same thing about being within 2ft of the ballast. I've been usin it for bout 3 years now with a 15ft lamp cord with no problems. Just my 2 cent

Good luck


PS- Have some auto harvest pics soon for the club. Getin close to chop

 

[mattkilla420]

dude said this is an industrial light. like whats in parking lots and what not. Idk if thats the same setup as a home security light. Im gonna be safe and just not worry about the vertical for now. Ill post pics my new light tomorrow!!

 

[jpizle]

Yea thats what I meant commercial/industrial. Capacitors let you put more lights per circuit ie a big parkin lot with 30 400w MHs running. They make HIDs more efficient, but it doesnt really come into play unless you have many lights.

Most smaller HID sec lights -150w dont have caps cuz they figure u only have one or 2 in ya back yard. Makes em cheaper to produce/sell without caps too.

Never tried vert myself either but it does look like a damn good idea to max yields with any size bulb. Im setup for horiz tho and it wud kinda be a PITA to retool.

 

[MagicChef]

Green is ground wich means is made to connect to metal the only reason its hooked to your balast and not hooked to you wall is cause they cant fit a wall in a 150 hps box lol and they also expect you to use the lamp they made for the consumer.im pretty sure some people have made youtube vids on this topic might want to check it out and get step by step visual assistance just so you know the exact proccess.

What the hell !??!

 

[mattkilla420]

i got rained out of work early today but couldnt have been a better day because i get to come home and set up my new light.. Okay so heres what i Got..

Now a few questions for the experts here. He hooked a cord up for me but i noticed he cut the ground off the cord and does not have it running. This worries me. I asked him about it and he said the whole box was grounded and it didnt need a ground. Everything ive read on the internet about lights says GROUND. Heres the guts and the wiring diagram if anybody could tell me if i really need to go get some extension cord and make a grounded cord?? He said he ran it for a hour last night and no probs.

The black and white wires in the middle attached to the 3 screw terminal are the wires coming out the back that are spliced to the plug in.
The wiring diagram

aNY HELP soon would be appreciated im gettin it set up now

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

Your components may be 'grounded' to the box for functionality, i.e. typical operation. The ground line is for safety, i.e. an atypical situation like a short-circuit. In that case, the grounded cable would return the potentially deadly charge to the main ground. I'm not an electrician but would feel safer with a grounded cable.

 

[mattkilla420]

so can u look at diagram and tell me where the ground is?? or do i make one?? okay i see the black and white wires which is pos and neg i believe so do i have to make a ground or is there one already in existence on my hood?? well i just put it up for a test run and looks like im gonna have to drop one of the hoods. temps got up to 88 . too hot for that room. bummer! will have remote ballast it if i want both lights.

 

[mmmcake]

transplanted to my oger99's f2's today.

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

so can u look at diagram and tell me where the ground is?? or do i make one?? okay i see the black and white wires which is pos and neg i believe so do i have to make a ground or is there one already in existence on my hood?? well i just put it up for a test run and looks like im gonna have to drop one of the hoods. temps got up to 88 . too hot for that room. bummer! will have remote ballast it if i want both lights.

Did your friend not show you the ground? You can use a ballast housing screw, so long as it's screwed into unpainted metal.

 

[darkvade420]

YIPPY DAY ONE ROOTS COMING THROUGH THE ROCK WOOL

 

[mattkilla420]

Your components may be 'grounded' to the box for functionality, i.e. typical operation. The ground line is for safety, i.e. an atypical situation like a short-circuit. In that case, the grounded cable would return the potentially deadly charge to the main ground. I'm not an electrician but would feel safer with a grounded cable.

Did your friend not show you the ground? You can use a ballast housing screw, so long as it's screwed into unpainted metal.

no he didnt. he was in a rush and hes really a friend of a friend. thats why im backing things up with my own research. If im going to remote the ballast do i connect the ground coming in from power to the ground that i will have when i extend the socket cord. Or can it still be grounded to the hood? I know i read cpl pages back to be sure to have it grounded somewhere near bulb. Is this in addition to a unpainted screw in housing?

 

[J.C.grower]

Finally my pictures uploaded after 2 weeks of trying!!

White Skunk(rear left)-day 44
Purple Dragon(rear right)-day 34
Helix(front right)-day 13

i did some research on Purple Dragon since i did not know what the genetics could of been, and i came up with , Purple Kush X Blue Domina, has the structure of pk, and has the aromas from the blue domina. havent seen any purple coloring, not keeping as cold as it should be to bring out them colors. but her structure and aromas are beyond imagination, cant wait to see this lady at the peak of flower.
As for the white skunk , i think she has about 2-3 weeks left,calyxes are swelling nicelyy..
stay fligh 150 club!!
JC