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150w HPS Club and Resource Guide......

StupidBoy

Member
Yes you can grow w/that bulb. I'm not so sure it you should use it in the hps socket/fitting. The MH wont be as efficient, and will run hotter, but you'll get some nice buds w/it. Some folks grow using only MH. Hope that helps.
 

HobbyGrower

Member
yet another question. Is a 4" inline 80cfm duct fan enough to pull through a homemade scrubber, or any scrubber for that matter? grow tent is 25.69 cubic feet.
 

Baba Ku

Active member
Veteran
That 4" inline duct booster's CFM will be devastated by any scrubber. A 6" is also too small for a scrubber. I have used two 6" stacked on each other with a small cab scrubber. (6" port, 8" dia x 12")
 

R3ZIN

Member
Just a few questions:

1. Do people / most people supplement the 150 with daylight cfls?

The cab is 3.5ft long by 2.5ft wide by 4.5 high. The light gets to all plants well without a problem.


Can any 150 Clubbers that have gotten close to 1g a watt reply here? Or really anyone who did 'x' and it really increased their weights etc or made their grow much more efficient reply?

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=4061909#post4061909
 

Baba Ku

Active member
Veteran
Supplementing with CFL does little to the yield. It may actually be detrimental to the yield if you don't have your ventilation squared away and can take care of the extra heat CFL's will provide. See, each CFL has it's own heat producing ballast and they will all be within the grow increasing the heat, and doing very little in producing light that will help much.

And yielding 1gr per watt is a bit tough to do with a 150 bulb, as they don't penetrate very well. If you are going to shoot for high yield numbers, then a 150 grow isn't the best choice.

Now, you can increase your yields in the box by setting up for a Scrog situation. Although the veg time required will take away from a yearly total since you will only get maybe three good grows in a year, where as the person growing SOG may get 5-6 in a year.
Also, it is a proven fact that a vertical situation uses the lamps light more efficiently than it would the light being reflected from a hood. So, setting up vertical can help to increase your yields.

Your box is plenty big to go with larger wattage lamps, but if you only want to do 150 watt grows, then you will need to realize it is not the yield champ.
But, I do know from experience that if done well you can keep yourself, and possibly a loved one, in weed all the time with a nice 150 grow.
 

blwd67

Member
Hey, nice tube setup. I've never attempted one myself, so at the risk of a Sounding like a know it all... I believe another member also used hurricane glass for a tube and found that the shape really threw off the whole concept. Pockets in the airflow and all that. Now, having never tried it myself, I can only speak second hand; however, I felt it was worth noting.
 

DiscoBiscuit

weed fiend
Veteran
Just a few questions:

1. Do people / most people supplement the 150 with daylight cfls?

The cab is 3.5ft long by 2.5ft wide by 4.5 high. The light gets to all plants well without a problem.


Can any 150 Clubbers that have gotten close to 1g a watt reply here? Or really anyone who did 'x' and it really increased their weights etc or made their grow much more efficient reply?

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=4061909#post4061909

R3ZIN, your footprint is 8.75 square feet. That's almost triple the typical setup of ~3 square feet. A 150 can get you some nice buds but the lamp usually has to be within several inches of the canopy to approach anywhere near 1 gpw.

According to posts here, ~50 watts per square foot of HID is what you'll need to approach 1 gpw. You're cab is closer to a 400w bulb, as long as you can control the heat. I'd consider a smaller footprint if you want to continue with the 150.

Fat yields are preferable but you can also increase yields if the next cycle is ready to flower. You cut out lots of time, veg another round while the current flower cycle is rockin', rinse and repeat. Piles up lots faster this way.

You've got lots of room. You could divide the cab into a veg and flower area. Anti has a nice cab with central ventilation you could check out if interested.
 
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KolorBlind

Member
My best results ever were when I ran 8 Diesel Ryders in 2L bottles in a minifridge under a single 150HPS (See pic on previous page). I could have fit 9 plants in there, but only got 8 females out of 20 seeds. if I had one more female in with them, I am certain 1gpw would have been achieved. I was able to pull 4.65oz dry, or 130.2g which ended up at 0.86gpw.

What others have said is true, 1gpw is very hard to do with a 150w HID. 400w and 600w are where you see most people consistently getting 1gpw once they get their setup dialed in.

My average yield per plant was 16.2g dry. I made the minifridge to perfectly fit 9 2L soda bottles on its shelf, so if I had added 1 more and got 16.2g off it, I would have been at 0.97gpw. My footprint was only 16" by 17", and the only other things I can think of that might increase yields would be hempy instead of soil, or a 4 plant DWC scrog.

If you truly are wanting to get closer to 1gpw without having to perfectly dial in every little thing, a 250w to 600w HPS is what you need. Even with a 250 I struggle to achieve the gpw results I got from my minifridge runs, the last run I had was 7 Diesel Ryders (damn my luck on the females) and only got 181g dry total. Now this run I have going now looks like it could be a very close contender for 1gpw, but it is with 5 apollo11 and 4 Bubbleicious. I am 100% confident that once I have 9 Bubbleicious in 1gal hempy buckets, I will be pulling 1 to 1.25gpw under that 250. but this Bubbleicious I have is from a 5+ year old mother that a friend used for his hydro SOG setup and it is the PERFECT SOG plant so far. Grows to about 24", and the plants stay within 1" of each other in height throughout the whole grow. Perfect circumstances for a SOG grow, which in my opinion is the most efficient way to achieve 1gpw or better.

best of luck
KB
 

gregthompson69

New member
This thread inspired me to go vertical 150w so I'd thought I'd give back with some pics of my grow (conveniently disguised as a cardboard box) & some bud I'm toking on:

My 150w:
IMG_0003-2.jpg

IMG_0004-4.jpg

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Irrigation (hooked to a pump in a 5gal res on a 7 day timer):
IMG_0006-4.jpg


View from the top:
IMG_0014-2.jpg

IMG_0007-4.jpg


Group Shot (Nirvana's Bubbelicous & Short Stuff's Onyx):
IMG_0002-1.jpg



Onyx:
IMG_6049.jpg

IMG_0008-1.jpg



Bubbelicious:
IMG_6038.jpg

IMG_6050.jpg

IMG_6054.jpg


IMG_0012-1.jpg

IMG_0010.jpg


__Random budz__

Sour D:
IMG_0005-1.jpg

IMG_0006-3.jpg

IMG_0009-2.jpg


Super Silver Haze:
IMG_0006.jpg

IMG_0009.jpg

IMG_0012.jpg


Grape Ape:
IMG_0014.jpg

IMG_0017.jpg


Blue Dream:
IMG_6090.jpg

IMG_6094.jpg

IMG_6109.jpg
 

HobbyGrower

Member
just about to flip 12/12. wondering how far folks here keep their 150 from the canopy when they switch. Does it change throughout the flowering cycle or just keep raising it to an even height?
 

MagicChef

Member
I believe when working with lower wattages, (ie: 250w, 150w, 70w etc) it is best to keep the light as close to the canopy as possible, without burning or causing any heat stress. When you work up to higher wattage hid's it is possible to actually 'bleach' using too much light. Safe working distances in your case will depend on your cooling system, and how your set up works. I would have to say, work with an even light distance unless your working with seeds, in that case you want to start off with the light farther away, and gradually lower it as growth progresses.
Peace!
 

GrowBox420

Member
Proud to be a part of the Club....

Proud to be a part of the Club....

Hopefully one day I can grow myself some nice size nugs like the pros tell then I will keep trying.....

What is up with the skiny one ... is it just the strain (Sour D) or am I missing something?

The Cheeze is looking good though....

Come check out my thread ... check out the upgrades and maybe even help a brother out ....

PEACE GB420
 

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R3ZIN

Member
Thanks Baba, Disco & Kolor for your feedback. I will most likely upgrade to 400 - 600 in the future but Mrs will kill me if I do this before getting some returns on this bulb as I have already spent too much :)
 

HobbyGrower

Member
Thanks MagicChef. So, from what I understand the same basic rules apply in flower. Back of the hand test, no real sure fire, "magic number." Got it. Thanks!

Flipping 12/12 Friday. Hopefully I've got at least one girl. After this grow... feminized Widorella!! :dance013:
 

KolorBlind

Member
Thanks Baba, Disco & Kolor for your feedback. I will most likely upgrade to 400 - 600 in the future but Mrs will kill me if I do this before getting some returns on this bulb as I have already spent too much :)

I hear ya man, its so SOOOO easy for our hobby to turn into a money pit. Definitely run that light as long as you can! Even if you get another, find somewhere to implement your 150 and you will be glad you did. I built my 150 for $56 over 4 years ago, and it had provided me with THOUSANDS of dollars worth of dank homegrown.

The wives can slow things down a bit (they just dont understand, hehe) but they mean well. Nothing worse than spending $500 on a setup only to realize you need to spend $500 more to actually do it the way you want.

So rock that 150 and enjoy every last bit you get out of it!
KB
 

MagicChef

Member
HobbyGrower,

Im not always sure with the 'back of the hand test.' The best way to go about it is put a thermometer right at canopy level, wait a while( a few hours even) with the lights on, and see what your tempature is. When I first started growing indoors I'd put the thermo meter down on the ledge, a little above pot level. It would never go above 78' F and I though I was alright. I was also using the 'back of the hand test.' Then came obvious signs of heat stress. Scorched/dry leaves. Curling. I decided to put the thermometer at canopy level and was suprised to see it at 89' F! Lesson learned. It also helps to put a fan between your light, and your canopy. Peace!
 

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