snuggy1955
New member
thankx GG im checking it out
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150w HPS Club and Resource Guide......
- Thread starter Pipedream
- Start date
InquisitiveBud
New member
DiscoBiscuit said:
The dude with the keg coolers? ya thanks man, count on frequent updates : )
jasonk
Member
Has anyone ever used a small squirrel cage, CPU fan before? It seems like it works much better then an inline cpu fan, however people normally use multiples of them.
http://www.weirdstuff.com/mas_assets/thumb/13207.jpg
The website says 32 cfm and 54.7 dB-A. What can I relate 55dB-A to, to get an idea how it sounds?
http://www.weirdstuff.com/mas_assets/thumb/13207.jpg
The website says 32 cfm and 54.7 dB-A. What can I relate 55dB-A to, to get an idea how it sounds?
Bulénath
Member
catman said:
That is exactly what I ment. You will have to sandwhich the carbon tight.
catman said:My cab is nearly complete and I've already begun to test it out!
I have a Panasonic FV-08VK1 and it is rated for 80cfm. This one and a few others are different because they are DC motors. When they have a "load" or static pressure on them they automatically speed up a bit to maintain the rated CFM. There is a deluxe model that has speed control should you need less, but I'm assuming you'll want something big enough where 80cfm is probably a minimum.
The 150w has been on for a hour and with an ambient temperature of 70F it has risen to 78F and is steady. I'm very pleased with this, but this is without any carbon in the filter or covers on the intakes! I have 2 120mm 110CFM rated 12v fans with speed controllers to move air around inside. I'm going to pull this off for now and see how far a long it is until summer before a cool tube is needed
The carbon filter will not tax the CFM much at all. Those 2 x 110cfm PC fans blowing air across the canopy should work extremely well.
That is roughly the same kind of rise in temperatures I experience too.
If your ambient humidity is 55% or below you probably only need like 1" of carbon. But if you are going to sandwhich the carbon, you need to figgure out a easy way to expand the depth of the carbon if you need to. You really don't need more than 2", but in any case, any humidity over 60% will cause the carbon to not work properly.
I try to keep my bedroom really clean. I vaccume 3-4 times a week and constantly use my A/C (becasue I live in a tropical rain forest)...So I only change my carbon once every 2-3 grows or so. (every 4-6 months)
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Bulénath
Member
ambr0sia said:FWIW, it's taken me this long to figure out that the style of fan Bulenath uses is not the Panasonic Whisperline, but rather the WhisperCeiling - No wonder I haven't been able to find them for sale anywhere all this time! Apparently the Whisperline only refers to the in-line style, which don't have the incredibly space-efficient qualities of their easily carbon-filtered brethren.
A few quick question regarding the WhisperCeiling for those in the know:
1) Are they speed controllable? If so, is there any particular controller I should be using?
2) Which CFM model do y'all reckon would be more than adequate for a 150W cab? This would, of course, be accounting for a Bulenath-style carbon filter as well.
3) How many grows have you done with yours, Bulenath? I know I've asked you this before, but as the apparently limited use of these models here or elsewhere in a growing context has me hesitant to make the leap, I've gotta check in again: How are they holding up?
Hope the holidays are finishing up a treat for my fellow 150W'rs!
You are right, the line I use is called the "Panasonic Whisper Ceiling fans".
There are many diffrent lines as explained here:
http://www.rewci.com/panvenfan.html
And this is the line that I use, particularly the 80CFM model.
http://www.rewci.com/panceilexfan.html
1) The 80cfm model I use will maintain CFM at a carbon-filter-static-pressure level. I don't know if you can use a solid state speed controlller. Maybe Pipedream can shed some light if that is possible.
I assume that almost every model under the Line that I use has the same type of motor. Though as I look through the newer models, there is a delux one that runs at either 60 or 110cfm:
http://www.rewci.com/wh2vefan.html
Either way, 60cfm is not much in most cases, and 110 might be a little loud for a bed-room operation, but to each thier own.
2) the 80cfm model is addequate for most 150 cabinets. The 110cfm model would definately do the trick. Though I like the 80CFM model because it has an extremely low Sone rating.
3) I have done well over 12 full grows. There has been so many, I lost track!
Well I started out with the 70 CFM model years ago. Without a carbon filter, it has been running for the equivelent of 3 years straight 24/7 non stop.
Though it is really dusty and I never actually cleaned it yet...
The other two, the 80cfm models, have been running about 2 years non-stop with a carbon filter.
No noise increase, motor wear, or any signs of the fans failing just yet. Perhaps I am just lucky...
Keep in mind I grow about 2-3 feet from my head and am a very light sleeper with insomnia.
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Bulénath
Member
InquisitiveBud said:Damn dudes, ive been trying to join this forum/club for months, i love this shit. Alot of inspiration. Im doing a verticle tub grow right now, id love to share some pics but i cant seem to get past loading them from my gallery to my post, then it says : "Your Post contains one or more URLs, please remove them before submitting your message again."
Alright hopefully this works... But heatwise i use 3 120mm comp fans (pretty damn quet) and the cool tube does wonders. i can get my hand an inch to two away comfortably. Im hoping to get some good results off this. Well see...
Haven't seen much vertical 150's but look foward to your plants flowering.
Are you vegging seedlings under the 150HPS? You know that the HPS kills humidity and is a completely wrong spectrum for vegging plants, so even if they all survive, your male/female ratio might be kinda shitty.
Just a heads up.
Bulénath
Member
Just gota share important information I have learned as of recently...
Well, I took off the glass sheild to my White-flower cabinet. That is the cabinet with the 17-1/2" tall flower chamber. I also removed the 60cfm PC fan pulling on the light.
Here is why...After a few grows I would start to smell a certian "burning electronic" smell... Nothing like smoke, rather over heating electronics... I eventually narrowed it down to the PC fan being used to pull directly on the Floralux-Mini Air-cooled reflector. I figgured this was normal for a $10 PC that did its duty for a bunch of grows. So I replaced it, and another couple grows go by, and that one burns out.
So a few weeks ago, my third one burned out just after a few days of installation. I decided to just say "fuck it" and see what happens...
Well so far, with no glass shield and no direct air blowing over the bulb itself,
my plant is looking beautiful. However....
The difference in yeild between my 36" tall flower chamber Black Cabinet, and my 17-1/2 tall flower chamber white cabinet is HUGE.
I would not reccomend copying my White-cabinet's flower chamber if you have the option to go higher. I built the white cabinet becasue I was desperate for anything to smoke, and it did pay for itself within the very first grow! However, the best yeild I ever pulled from my small white cabinet was about 2-1/2 ounces, maybe three tops, between three plants each in 2 gallon+ pots, all LST'd, all allowed to touch the outer edges of the glass shield when it was installed. It would be safe to sasume that my average yeild is about 2 ounces, now that coupled with loss of yield from new experiements.
Lately, my single plant scrog, alone in a roughly 4 gallon pot hasn't been able to produce as much as three plants in 6 gallons of soil... It takes longer to flower becasue it needs to veg under the HPS for a while to fill out the screen well enough, and is only one plant over all. Not to mention it cannot get as close to the light as the other plants, due to the modular scrogg design....
However, I am attempting my third scrog now, without any glass shield, and I am hoping to get 2-1/2 ounces this time. But man, perfecting the growing technique required in such a small space has been very, very tedious.
Now my black cabinet, with my current strain, I am happy to say has been givng a minimum of 3 ounces per 60 days, and more than likely closer to four ounces per 60 days. Last harvest was 4 ounces. That is with two plants each in five gallons of soil. Heres some pics of last harvest (the QP harvest), day 38 flower.
So as a bare minimum to achieving a very decent yeild,
try to go with about 10 gallons of soil and 36" of flower chamber height, and a foot print of atleast 3 square feet.
Basically, the more soil, the more sun, the more free space, all within the boundries of the general consensus's growing parameters, the better.
Well, I took off the glass sheild to my White-flower cabinet. That is the cabinet with the 17-1/2" tall flower chamber. I also removed the 60cfm PC fan pulling on the light.
Here is why...After a few grows I would start to smell a certian "burning electronic" smell... Nothing like smoke, rather over heating electronics... I eventually narrowed it down to the PC fan being used to pull directly on the Floralux-Mini Air-cooled reflector. I figgured this was normal for a $10 PC that did its duty for a bunch of grows. So I replaced it, and another couple grows go by, and that one burns out.
So a few weeks ago, my third one burned out just after a few days of installation. I decided to just say "fuck it" and see what happens...
Well so far, with no glass shield and no direct air blowing over the bulb itself,
my plant is looking beautiful. However....
The difference in yeild between my 36" tall flower chamber Black Cabinet, and my 17-1/2 tall flower chamber white cabinet is HUGE.
I would not reccomend copying my White-cabinet's flower chamber if you have the option to go higher. I built the white cabinet becasue I was desperate for anything to smoke, and it did pay for itself within the very first grow! However, the best yeild I ever pulled from my small white cabinet was about 2-1/2 ounces, maybe three tops, between three plants each in 2 gallon+ pots, all LST'd, all allowed to touch the outer edges of the glass shield when it was installed. It would be safe to sasume that my average yeild is about 2 ounces, now that coupled with loss of yield from new experiements.
Lately, my single plant scrog, alone in a roughly 4 gallon pot hasn't been able to produce as much as three plants in 6 gallons of soil... It takes longer to flower becasue it needs to veg under the HPS for a while to fill out the screen well enough, and is only one plant over all. Not to mention it cannot get as close to the light as the other plants, due to the modular scrogg design....
However, I am attempting my third scrog now, without any glass shield, and I am hoping to get 2-1/2 ounces this time. But man, perfecting the growing technique required in such a small space has been very, very tedious.
Now my black cabinet, with my current strain, I am happy to say has been givng a minimum of 3 ounces per 60 days, and more than likely closer to four ounces per 60 days. Last harvest was 4 ounces. That is with two plants each in five gallons of soil. Heres some pics of last harvest (the QP harvest), day 38 flower.
So as a bare minimum to achieving a very decent yeild,
try to go with about 10 gallons of soil and 36" of flower chamber height, and a foot print of atleast 3 square feet.
Basically, the more soil, the more sun, the more free space, all within the boundries of the general consensus's growing parameters, the better.
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Bulénath, I fucking love your posts man. They've made my day on several occasions
I have 2.125 sq feet of optimal space. The walls are like 85-90% covered in panda plastic and so is the ceiling. Right now the top of my light bulb is 4 inches from the ceiling and I have 19 inches form the bottom of the bulb to floor. I think If I used some metal to conduct the heat I could have 23.5 inches of vertical space. Do you think your yield with the white one was because lack of floor space or height?
I was wondering the size of the tub and how approximately tall would you estimate the last picture you posted.
Thanks!
I have 2.125 sq feet of optimal space. The walls are like 85-90% covered in panda plastic and so is the ceiling. Right now the top of my light bulb is 4 inches from the ceiling and I have 19 inches form the bottom of the bulb to floor. I think If I used some metal to conduct the heat I could have 23.5 inches of vertical space. Do you think your yield with the white one was because lack of floor space or height?
I was wondering the size of the tub and how approximately tall would you estimate the last picture you posted.
Thanks!
Bulénath
Member
The highest point of the Metal scrog-frame is about 13", the PC fan in the corner is 5" tall.
The Tub/Pot is a rubbermaid that I converted into a pot by drilling drainage holes and coverig the entire outside in aluminum tape, so the roots are in total darkness (Duct tape won't work, it's more or less translucent), and the outside is completely reflective.
It is about four gallons I think? I really can't say for sure. I think it is about 5" tall, roughly.
If you want, when the lights come on, I can measure the pot for ya...
I definately think the smaller harvest can be attributed to the overall lack of height, amount of soil, and relatively small floor print.
If the plants had more soil, more height and more space, they would definately, without a doubt utilize it to its fullest potential, and therefor yeild more.
Try to go with as much height as possible, in your case, becasue your flower chamber can only be about 23-1/2" tall.
Are you still planning on mounting the fan on teh outside of the box?
If so, leave a 1-2" gap between the reflector and the hole in the roof to allow enough air-flow around the reflector. Make sure the relfector is screwed on tight, becasue the suction above it will cause the reflector to vibrate with all that air flow being so strong and so close.
Your bulb can be about 1/2" away from the reflector, but try to allow room for air to flow directly around the entire bulb, if possible.
So that should leave you with about 21-22" from floor to the bulb, coupled with 220CFM of computer fans to cool blow on & between the bulb and canopy, your design should work just fine.
I am concerened about your foot print though... You are pushing 70 watts per square foot. But with 220cfm of internal fans, and 5 air exchanges per minute, provided you keep that bulb cool you plants should do very well.
Infact, when I think about it, your floor print is about the same size as my White cabinets floor print....14" x 24"....
Hell man, your plants should be able to get so close to that bulb, especially if you LST and grow a sorta "stadium" around the bulb with 220CFM of internal fans....
(I find LST usually leaves more room for air and light penetration, depending on how you train your plants, opposed to scroggs which are very linear.)
The Tub/Pot is a rubbermaid that I converted into a pot by drilling drainage holes and coverig the entire outside in aluminum tape, so the roots are in total darkness (Duct tape won't work, it's more or less translucent), and the outside is completely reflective.
It is about four gallons I think? I really can't say for sure. I think it is about 5" tall, roughly.
If you want, when the lights come on, I can measure the pot for ya...
I definately think the smaller harvest can be attributed to the overall lack of height, amount of soil, and relatively small floor print.
If the plants had more soil, more height and more space, they would definately, without a doubt utilize it to its fullest potential, and therefor yeild more.
Try to go with as much height as possible, in your case, becasue your flower chamber can only be about 23-1/2" tall.
Are you still planning on mounting the fan on teh outside of the box?
If so, leave a 1-2" gap between the reflector and the hole in the roof to allow enough air-flow around the reflector. Make sure the relfector is screwed on tight, becasue the suction above it will cause the reflector to vibrate with all that air flow being so strong and so close.
Your bulb can be about 1/2" away from the reflector, but try to allow room for air to flow directly around the entire bulb, if possible.
So that should leave you with about 21-22" from floor to the bulb, coupled with 220CFM of computer fans to cool blow on & between the bulb and canopy, your design should work just fine.
I am concerened about your foot print though... You are pushing 70 watts per square foot. But with 220cfm of internal fans, and 5 air exchanges per minute, provided you keep that bulb cool you plants should do very well.
Infact, when I think about it, your floor print is about the same size as my White cabinets floor print....14" x 24"....
Hell man, your plants should be able to get so close to that bulb, especially if you LST and grow a sorta "stadium" around the bulb with 220CFM of internal fans....
(I find LST usually leaves more room for air and light penetration, depending on how you train your plants, opposed to scroggs which are very linear.)
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C
Cozy Amnesia
Good work bulenath, it seems you're having better success than I am.
I was at my folks place for a week for x-mas, came home today, and found that my plane had failed:
I tried using a wick system to keep her hydrated, but it didn't seem to work. I bought some wicks that were covered in poly tubing, cut an inch of the tubing off both ends, planted one end in the coco and the other in the water.
But, alas, she wasn't completely fried. A couple hours later:
Bud shots via my new toy's macro feature:
I was at my folks place for a week for x-mas, came home today, and found that my plane had failed:
I tried using a wick system to keep her hydrated, but it didn't seem to work. I bought some wicks that were covered in poly tubing, cut an inch of the tubing off both ends, planted one end in the coco and the other in the water.
But, alas, she wasn't completely fried. A couple hours later:
Bud shots via my new toy's macro feature:
TraneRek
Member
Hey all,
I got my 150 here, but it didn't come w/ a bulb; is that normal? Anyways, I'm gonna get some supplimentary CFL's for my flowering cab. What should the light spectrum be?
Also, I decided on an NGB style cab. Anyone have any feedback on those, good or bad? Thanks again,
-Rek
EDIT: I got my light from e-conolights, btw
I got my 150 here, but it didn't come w/ a bulb; is that normal? Anyways, I'm gonna get some supplimentary CFL's for my flowering cab. What should the light spectrum be?
Also, I decided on an NGB style cab. Anyone have any feedback on those, good or bad? Thanks again,
-Rek
EDIT: I got my light from e-conolights, btw
They need to send you your bulb.
They are only $5.75 at econolights, ask them to throw an extra in for their mistake.
They are only $5.75 at econolights, ask them to throw an extra in for their mistake.
Bulénath
Member
Cozy,
Good thing she wasn't totally fried. The pictures looked bad at first glance, but she did seem reviveable. Thankfully you got there just in the nick of time!
You buds look really tasty... I like the dark hairs. Regardless of the truth behind harvesting based on Trichome color, I still use hair color to determine when to start looking at the glands... That and the changing color and/or browning of the leaves.
TraneRek,
I forgot which 150 member it is, perhaps Hoosierdaddy? One of the regulars has that style cabinet I believe...
Anyway, the biggest problem I see with the NGB style design is lightproofing one chamber from the next....Because you can't exactly crawl inside of your 150 flower chamber and see for your self! Seperate doors would help...But over all it seems troublesome, although extremely elegant, as if it would require much thought and experience to build successfully. At least in my opinion, but all of my carpentry skills came from reading on OverGrow and trial and error...
Good thing she wasn't totally fried. The pictures looked bad at first glance, but she did seem reviveable. Thankfully you got there just in the nick of time!
You buds look really tasty... I like the dark hairs. Regardless of the truth behind harvesting based on Trichome color, I still use hair color to determine when to start looking at the glands... That and the changing color and/or browning of the leaves.
TraneRek,
I forgot which 150 member it is, perhaps Hoosierdaddy? One of the regulars has that style cabinet I believe...
Anyway, the biggest problem I see with the NGB style design is lightproofing one chamber from the next....Because you can't exactly crawl inside of your 150 flower chamber and see for your self! Seperate doors would help...But over all it seems troublesome, although extremely elegant, as if it would require much thought and experience to build successfully. At least in my opinion, but all of my carpentry skills came from reading on OverGrow and trial and error...
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Those are some nice buds Cozy Amnesia. Sorry about your plant, hope it is recoverable.
A shallow pan with a 2" thick brick sidewalk tile wakes a good wick system. If the pan is slightly taller than the thickness of the tile, the water line can be as high as the tile itself. I did this with some outdoor potted tomatoes and the roots tried to go into the tile. It bought me 2 days. Would have probably lasted longer with indoor mj plants.
A shallow pan with a 2" thick brick sidewalk tile wakes a good wick system. If the pan is slightly taller than the thickness of the tile, the water line can be as high as the tile itself. I did this with some outdoor potted tomatoes and the roots tried to go into the tile. It bought me 2 days. Would have probably lasted longer with indoor mj plants.
Bulénath said:
huh? who, me?
A porous brick lying in a pan of water acts like a wick and will transfer water to potted roots. Place a pot without the saucer directly on the wet brick. Works for me.
InquisitiveBud
New member
Cozy Amnesia said:Good work bulenath, it seems you're having better success than I am.
I was at my folks place for a week for x-mas, came home today, and found that my plane had failed:
I tried using a wick system to keep her hydrated, but it didn't seem to work. I bought some wicks that were covered in poly tubing, cut an inch of the tubing off both ends, planted one end in the coco and the other in the water.
But, alas, she wasn't completely fried. A couple hours later:
Bud shots via my new toy's macro feature:
Damn dude, Shes looking great. Good way to show how resilient the Marijuana plant is, you must be one happy camper
