10 min $10 DIY aerated compost tea ACT brewer

[Microbeman]

Going to attempt to build a 30 gallon air lift style brewer from a "30 Gallon Cone Inductor Tank *Fully Draining*."

Have a few questions, I was hoping some of the pros wouldn't mind chiming in on^^

1) The tank has 2 options for the drain fittings, 1.5" female, or 2" male. Common sense tells me either would work fine, although I am curious if someone has input as to why one would work better than the other.

2) I was going to use (personal use) the airlift design from Microbe Organics (Thanks!). The design seems so perfect, simple, and clean. The only change I am thinking of trying, is to use 2 airlifts or possibly split the 1 airlift in an attempt to create a bit of a vortex. I don't want to have to clean 4 airlifts, or even 2 really, although the idea of the water spinning seems neat. I have a few ideas how to adapt it, but nothing great yet. Hoping someone else may have done it already, or would have an ingenious yet simple way to do it without over complicating the pipping or cleaning.

3) Any suggestions for a good air pump, that would be overkill for a 30 gallon airlift? Noise is of no concern, and price is of limited concern (saving a ton compared to buying a vortex).

4) Also, I had the idea of using 2x pumps and 2x airlifts, 1 pump for each airlift. Most likely this idea is flawed, I just need someone to point out why.

Thanks a ton,
Mr^^

You only need one airlift to create a vortex in a conebottom tank.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=faLgIXQ57mM

An Eco Commercial air number 5 pump without the brass nipple will make 30 gallons dance.

Be aware everyone that I am testing a new line of pumps which may be as good, slightly better but quieter than ECO. I'll be forthcoming with this info as quickly as I can.

I cannot envision the drain sizes you mentioned. If it is threaded do you mean it takes a 1.5 inch male fitting or a 2 inch female fitting?
Otherwise it does not make sense to me. If it is as I stated use the 2 inch for less restrictive flow in the hole.

 

[hoss1111]

I sent my Eco 1 back to Amazon. Not sure if it was broken or just super loud. But I have two 8 watt Aqua supreme ap-8 pumps by danner much quieter and seems to be fine.

2-4 gal at a time.

 

[MedResearcher]

Thanks MM, appreciate it.

Mr^^

 

[Microbeman]

Air Pump Change!

Air Pump Change!

As promised I'm announcing that I have changed my recommendation for the most cost effective for efficiency air pump to purchase for aerated compost tea brewers. ECO commercial air pumps are still okay but there is a better choice now;
The Elemental line of commercial air pumps.

Now (as of Feb 2015) I recommend the Elemental line of commercial air pumps. Like ECO commercial air they are a combination piston and rubber (diaphragm) pump but they are quieter and seem to out perform the ECOs for the same price range.

The Elemental 951 gph which we are using with our Mini-Microbulator outputs 2.5 CFM and the 1744 gph which we will be using with our 50 gallon airlift Microbulator measures an average 5.3 CFM (ECO 5 is 4.0 CFM). On top of that, these pumps are painted and it seems there is a higher standard applied to their manufacture.

 

[C21H30O2]

I have a couple problems that I could use some advice on. 1) some of the air from the pump is flowing up the drainage hole instead of the air lift column which seems to destroy the vortex and 2) the fitting for the air input is leaking. I used a nylon barbed and threaded fitting. Would a rubber gasket help, or should I move the air input entirely. Should I move the air pump input or feed it down the air lift column. It works well otherwise even not completely full it will lift the water its just not an efficient cycle because of the air going back up the drainage. Do I need to fill it completely for that to occur? I live in an apartment so I had to fill in my bathroom tub and couldn't fill completely as I had to lean the entire apparatus. Here is a picture. No stand yet. I used 1.5" pipe and 1" pipe for the air lift column.

 

[Microbeman]

C21

You have your air input incorrectly placed; See info here;
http://www.microbeorganics.com/#So_You_Wanna_Build_A_Compost_Tea_Brewer

and this diagram http://microbeorganics.com/Simple design cone airlift.pdf

You are best to use 1.25" PVC all the way. There is no advantage to reducing to 1" for your riser pipe.

 

[mojave green]

I find flooming to be more efficient than air pumps. Put a little submersible pump in your 3/5 gal bucket and enjoy!

 

[C21H30O2]

Perfect MM I will make those changes today.

 

[C21H30O2]

MM do I need anything to prevent leaks at the air pump intake? I am using a threaded barbed nylon fitting.

 

[Microbeman]

I find flooming to be more efficient than air pumps. Put a little submersible pump in your 3/5 gal bucket and enjoy!

How have you measured the efficiency? Both direct microscopy and oxygen meter?

 

[Microbeman]

MM do I need anything to prevent leaks at the air pump intake? I am using a threaded barbed nylon fitting.

If you use correct fittings and teflon tape, you should be good.

 

[KONY]

If you use correct fittings and teflon tape, you should be good.

What is the correct fitting to go from Air line to the pvc?

 

[MedResearcher]

Finished my brewer, and it seems to be working fairly well, although I was a little disappointed with the flow out of the airlift. Although without a D.O meter I really have no idea if it is enough or not.

So... first question, anyone recommend a decent DO Meter?

Second, gonna explain my brewer build, and maybe someone might have a suggestion or hint to increase the flow.

30 Gallon Induction tank w/ a full drain gasket.

Drain is reduced down to 1-1/4" sch 40 PVC.

The PVC/Airlift design is copied exactly from from MM's 12 Gallon Brewer. The only difference is no diffuser, and the pipe length where the air line installs is slightly shorter since I didn't need room for a diffuser.

I looked for SCH 20, thin wall pipe but didn't find any so went with SCH 40.

Using an ECO 5, brand new out of the box.


Airlift is functioning, and with an extra 45 bend at the end I can get a decent little vortex, maybe 2-3" deep of a cyclone. I just expected more and more bubbles. Even with a decent drop into the tank there really isn't to many bubbles.

Gonna change the airlift to 1" pipe, and retest it. As well as make sure I don't have any leaks. I also eyed an ECO 7 today, but didn't get it, in hope I wont need it.

I guess I really need a DO Meter, so I can test adjustments and find that sweet spot.

Open to any suggestions.

Thanks,
Mr^^

 

[Microbeman]

reducing to 1" will reduce the flow even more. Measure your flow with a 1 litre or 1 quart container (ie. yogurt). It should fil with a count of 1 and 2 and thr...

BTW it is not called schedule 20. It is class 160 (thinnest) or 200 ASTM (IPS)

http://www.pwpipe.com/literature/f/mkt-f-810.pdf

 

[Bmac1]

I made a brewer this week. I tried to replicate the mini microbulator and I think I did an ok job. Cost a bit more than $10 though, lol. I need to get a lid and figure out a way to cut down some of the pump noise but the ball is rolling in the right direction.

 

[Bmac1]

Would it be effective to clean it if I just filled another bucket with a water/iso or water/hydrogen peroxide and let it run for a bit and then give it a wipe down and rinse? OR should it be taken apart and cleaned piece by piece?

 

[heady blunts]

i find its really easy to clean if i do it immediately after the brew. i just use hot tap water and wipe it down with a yellow sponge or my hand.

if you leave it all gunked up and let it dry on there you'll need to use dish soap and scrub a bit. h2o2 might be good in that situation, but i've never tried it.

a bottle brush or an old rag will help get inside those pipe fittings. i do disassemble mine to clean, but i use that ptrap design from my OP, so it is very easy to take apart.

iirc, i think MM recommends to leave those joints unglued with the sched 40 pvc to make it easy to clean.

 

[Bmac1]

Sounds good. I didnt glue anything so I can take it all apart. The tea is going to be at 36 hours in a couple hours but then I wont be able to clean it till after work so hopefully its still an easy clean up.

 

[MedResearcher]

My brewer keeps clogging, directly below the drain at the 90 degree elbow. It doesn't happen constantly or even every brew, but it has happened enough times to remove the joy of making tea.

Hoping someone else has dealt with this issue and may have a solution. My initial thought is to blame it on the compost input, as in one of my inputs maybe needs to be screened better or swapped out entirely. The arctic humus I add as well as the compost, can have some small rocks, and sticks. I always crumble it through my fingers though so nothing to big gets by.

Ill give you guys a little info on my recipe and brewer design.

30 Gallon induction tank, 1.25" sch 40, single airlift. Very similar to MM's design <Thanks MM>. ECO 5 pump with barb removed.

Using apx 30 gallons of water
9 Cups compost total < 3 worm, 2 arctic humus, 4 compost >
500 ml Molasses
1 tbsp kelp meal


Would be very grateful for any ideas or solutions to this problem. I might try using a little less compost, or try screening it better. Worst case a larger pump, or maybe redo the piping with the thin wall stuff MM uses.. or try 1.5" SCH 40. Really don't wanna redo the pipes though, all the junctions and ball valves are a bit pricey!

Anyways thanks for listening and or helping out,
Mr^^

 

[heady blunts]

is the drain you're referring to the exit of the airlift or have you fitted a dump valve on the bottom for emptying a completed tea?

pics are always helpful!