I have a super sun II with a hortilux bulb in this space with and elicent 200b fan with 3 6" passive intakes. The ambient temps are around 76 F in this room however with the light running it is around 90 F. Will air cooling this light bring temps down to a respectable level. Right now i have the fan just sucking the hot air off the light no cool air being brought in over the light. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I am ready to move my babies but i gotta get the temps down to do so
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cooling a 3.5 x 3.5 ft space
- Thread starter pitchfork
- Start date
~fvk~
the Lion is going Guerrilla...
Yeah, getting the hood all set up should cool it down quite a bit depending on where your passive intake's air is coming from, your duct run, fan size, carbon filters, and wattage. Also, why so many 6 inch passive intakes? If you're running a 6 inch fan you're going to have like no negative pressure. I don't get why people get it backwards when it comes to passive intakes...
But yeah when it's pulling the hot air away from the bulb as soon as the heat is generated, you'll be surprised at how much of a difference it makes temp wise. You just gotta have enough air flow...
But yeah when it's pulling the hot air away from the bulb as soon as the heat is generated, you'll be surprised at how much of a difference it makes temp wise. You just gotta have enough air flow...
I don't either...perhaps you could expand on it for us so we can understand why you do this?~fvk~ said:
~fvk~
the Lion is going Guerrilla...
Why I have a somewhat smaller passive intake than exhaust? Two words... Negative pressure. I understand having say 2 4" passives to one 6" exhaust or something similar but anything more than that is too much.
For negative pressure, you want your exhaust to be bigger than your intake. I've seen a lot of people telling MFers the exact opposite.
For negative pressure, you want your exhaust to be bigger than your intake. I've seen a lot of people telling MFers the exact opposite.
surgexvb
Member
~fvk~ said:
I have one 4" 171 cfm fan pulling through a scrubber in my hydro hut with 2 4" holes for passive intake. My huts canvas is sucked in tightly, not loose and flappy. Obviously there is negative pressure, I can even take some thin paper and it will stick to one of the intake holes. I think two intake 6" holes instead of three would do you justice. fvk is right that three is probably excessive, but I think two will work well.
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complete air exchange every 4-5 minutes is average for a grow room/greenhouse. for heat control i like to use 2.5 minutes (M)
l x w x h = cf / m = cfm
a lil math will go a long way
There is a reason that an exhaust system and air-cooled hood should be separated. It allows effective control over your environment.
as far as intake and Exhaust (-+roompsi ) i have ran both.... the only down fall to +psi is odor control at the same time -psi has a down fall to pathogen (mold from god know where in your house) the cat's and dog's can fight over this one i wont agree or disagree with one over the other they both work, i did not see any real growth difference between the 2..... neutral pressure is best IMO
l x w x h = cf / m = cfm
a lil math will go a long way
There is a reason that an exhaust system and air-cooled hood should be separated. It allows effective control over your environment.
as far as intake and Exhaust (-+roompsi ) i have ran both.... the only down fall to +psi is odor control at the same time -psi has a down fall to pathogen (mold from god know where in your house) the cat's and dog's can fight over this one i wont agree or disagree with one over the other they both work, i did not see any real growth difference between the 2..... neutral pressure is best IMO
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petemoss
Active member
~fvk~ said:
It's not necessary to create a very strong suction inside your growspace; a slight amount of negative pressure will work better. If you have intake area of two to four times exhaust area (not half!), more air will flow through and your space will be cooler. Moreover, you can run your exhaust fan slower (and quieter) and won't wear it out prematurely. Don't make the most common beginner's mistake of too small intakes. Intake area two to four times exhaust area is a good rule of thumb. It will still create enough negative pressure to keep the odors from escaping. As long as air is flowing in thru the intakes, you have negative pressure. It's the pressure differential that makes the air move.
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fvk you apparently skipped your physics classes.
You should learn before you start trying to teach.
You should learn before you start trying to teach.
Alright besides the argument about negative pressure does everyone think if i air cool the hood then temps will be ok?
I just need help getting the temps under control. Temps in the room are 76 so i see no reason why this shouldnt work. But this is my first go round with a big light so i need help from people who know
dimensions are 3.75 x 3.75 x 7 so with a fan rated at 630ish cfm can i make it work in ther space and setup i have?
I just need help getting the temps under control. Temps in the room are 76 so i see no reason why this shouldnt work. But this is my first go round with a big light so i need help from people who know
dimensions are 3.75 x 3.75 x 7 so with a fan rated at 630ish cfm can i make it work in ther space and setup i have?
R
Raistlin Majere
my last cab was almost the same size as yours
a 6in 449 cfm vortex cooled it just fine (600w)
my new cab is 3x6x7 (1200w) is cooled with the same fan and it still does just fine, has neg pressure as well
630 cfm is overkill
a 6in 449 cfm vortex cooled it just fine (600w)
my new cab is 3x6x7 (1200w) is cooled with the same fan and it still does just fine, has neg pressure as well
630 cfm is overkill
Ive got everything hooked up properly and the temps are still outrageous it feels as if the fan is just not pulling the hot air off the light the exhaust air is not warm at all. I cant figure out whats wrong if anybody knows what i could be doing wrong please let me know i need all the help i can get.
pitchfork said:
I have a cab and vent system almost identical to Raistlin Majere and my temps are 1* - 2* above ambient with the 2x600 watt lights on.
You say everything is hooked up properly, but that is just your interpretation. If you post a description of your vent system, from start to finish, perhaps we can help you work out the bugs. Pics would be helpful too. The system should be working. The fact that it is not means you have done something wrong.
Is your hood designed to be air cooled? Where are your cab intakes, high or low? Details, man, details!!!
PC
Ok here's the details i have 3 6" passive intakes in the bottom of the cab at about 1.5 ft off the ground, my reflector is definitely meant to be air cooled it's a super sun II. My fan an elicent 200b is mounted on the back of the cab and pulling air through the light. There is an intake at about 6 ft thats bringing cool air into the light and im just exhausting the room through the hood. This setup is probably my problem, but like i said the two grows ive had before were low rent so this is my first experience with this equipment.
I am in search of a camera and as soon as i can give u guys some pics i will.
There's the details pharma now i need the guidance part.
I am in search of a camera and as soon as i can give u guys some pics i will.
There's the details pharma now i need the guidance part.
pitchfork said:
This may sound like a stupid question, but you do have a glass lens on the reflector, don't you?
I have my cabs vented through the lights and they work fine, so that, in and of itself, is not your problem.
Block off that intake vent at 6' (Just tape something over it for temporary now) and see what happens. Also, make sure your thermometer/sensor is about mid-level in the cab and shielded from direct exposure to the light - might as well get an accurate reading on the temps and direct exposure to the light skews that.
Report results.
PC
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Vetus Fossor
Member
Where are you venting your heat exhaust? Back into the room? Attic?
petemoss
Active member
pitchfork,
Sounds like you are intaking fresh air to your hood from a separate 6" intake and then exhausting with that huge fan - a closed system. But how does the air inside the box get exhausted? Try what PharmaCan suggested...close off that light intake and suck air from your growspace through the light. Do you have a speed controller for that fan?
Sounds like you are intaking fresh air to your hood from a separate 6" intake and then exhausting with that huge fan - a closed system. But how does the air inside the box get exhausted? Try what PharmaCan suggested...close off that light intake and suck air from your growspace through the light. Do you have a speed controller for that fan?
petemoss said:
LOL - it's kinda hard to tell exactly what he's got.
pitchfork said:
This sounds like he either has an upper intake vent, with no ducting attached, and a properly installed hood - or he has an upper intake with ducting to the hood and then a hood with no glass. (There ain't but two ways to suck air thru that hood. It's either thru the hole in the side or by using it with no glass.)
If his upper intake has no ducting, he's sucking most of his air thru the upper vent, and the cab is getting no air circulation. Simply closing off the upper vent should correct this.
If the upper intake is connected to a duct, this is a bad setup as-is and requires some reconfiguration. However, if it is this way he is on the verge of having a "sealed room" and should probably know what his options are before making any modifications.
But, the devil is in the details and I guess ya' can't expect someone who's never done it before to know which minute details might be important.
Anyhoo, as long as the OP keeps answering questions, sooner or later the problem/solution gets nailed down.
PC
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