-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
cooling a 3.5 x 3.5 ft space
- Thread starter pitchfork
- Start date
Ok I had an upper intake with ducting attached running into the light and there was no glass lens in place.
I since shut off the upper intake and just have the hood with no lens in place running i put my therm out of any direct light and placed it in the mid of the cab. Temps are better now at 85.
How should i set this up as i obviously have made some missteps along the way? Also my 6" intakes in the bottom of the cab are just flex ducting is this part of my proclem too.
Sorry im not being descriptive enough let me know what other information is needed and i will gladly supply it.
I since shut off the upper intake and just have the hood with no lens in place running i put my therm out of any direct light and placed it in the mid of the cab. Temps are better now at 85.
How should i set this up as i obviously have made some missteps along the way? Also my 6" intakes in the bottom of the cab are just flex ducting is this part of my proclem too.
Sorry im not being descriptive enough let me know what other information is needed and i will gladly supply it.
Two alternatives. Put a glass lens in the hood, use the upper vent and ducting (means the light is cooled independent of the cab ventilation) then add a separate exhaust vent up high in the cab. or Put a glass lens in the hood, then disconnect the ducting and block the upper vent. Either way you pretty much need that glass lens if you want optimum cooling because that is how the hood was designed. (You'll probably end up with the latter design. Why buy another fan when you already have one that serves both functions.)
The lower vents are probably ok. (We'll cross that bridge when we get to it.) IMO your problems are air-flow (not cfm but air movement) and getting the glass in the hood so that it cools properly. (Do you have the piece of glass or will you need to order it?)
Don't fret about the descriptive thing. You've never done this before so it's hard to tell what's important and what's not when you're learning.
PC
The lower vents are probably ok. (We'll cross that bridge when we get to it.) IMO your problems are air-flow (not cfm but air movement) and getting the glass in the hood so that it cools properly. (Do you have the piece of glass or will you need to order it?)
Don't fret about the descriptive thing. You've never done this before so it's hard to tell what's important and what's not when you're learning.
PC
Last edited:
petemoss
Active member
85 deg is much better! You're halfway there, pitchfork. Now add the glass and you should be able to get the temps down even more. Your fan is still too big, but you can slow it down quite a bit and still keep temps a few degrees above ambient. This speed controller works well. Made by Fantech and costs about $25.
With the glass in it feels pretty cool in the cab i believe i am getting inaccurate temp readings too though. I have just been using a accu-rite household digital thermometer and covered it under a cloth so it would not be in direct light. It said around 87 earlier and i dont think that thats correct judging by how the cab felt inside.
pitchfork said:
You got the glass installed, great!
You can try this with the thermometer/sensor. Put a plastic milk crate or something similar in the cab; put the sensor on top of that; then take a couple pieces of plywood, maybe 12"x12" and set them in an A-frame style over the sensor. That should give you enough shade and air circulation to get a more accurate reading. You can also move the sensor around to different locations, even above the light, and check the readings, just to kind of double check things for accuracy.
PC
