Best solution for spidermites and other pests?

know_one

Member

• Oct 9, 2005

• #1

I have some beautiful plants going and found a butt-load of spidermites (along with a few other pests) on leafs in grow room yesterday.
The guy at hydro store said he could order live predators to take care of problem, but it might be as long as 4 or 5 days. He also recommended a fogger that used organics but said it too would be in the store in about 4-5 days.
I used Neem-Oil and it didn't seem to make any difference. I check the next day and spidermites were still all over plants.
Plants are in 3rd week of flowering and my concern is that I might lose entire crop (6 plants).
If I use live predators, doesn't that mean I will be ingesting those bugs?
What is best solution for spidermites and other pests?
Any help with this is appreciated.

pic taken 10-06-05

 

J

joge

Member

• Oct 9, 2005

• #2

know one, those sure are pretty bro hate to loose them to those nasty critters. im sure there are plenty of posts here to research on the subject, and im no bug expert, but im pretty sure the beneficials will leave after the pests are consumed. ive heard that pirate bugs/predetor mites work well but dont know if you have enough time. the trick is to catch them early. personally i would take the plants and rinse them with liberal amounts of cold water as a first line of defence. this will literally blast alot of them of the plants. i think the eggs hatch about every three days and even if you kill the parents the babies will soon take over. then i use a mixture of neem and safers brand soap every day untill theyre gone. this may take a couple weeks but if youre dilligent will usually work. try to make sure you have plenty of air moving, and monitor humidity, to prevent fungis/mold problems. the mixture varies but i use a very diluted mix depeding on the intensity of the mights. if you have to use pyrethins i would sugjest diluting it with water to try to avoid leaf burn. test small areas first to look for burnt leaves. the safers mix can be applied under HID's and usually dosnt cause any ill affects. i try to stop treatment about ten days before harvest and rinse the plants a few times with water. like i said try to research the subject and use the method that suites you best, but act quickly mites are extreamly prolific. hopefully that helps and good luck.

 

I.M. Boggled

Certified Bloomin' Idiot

Veteran

• Oct 9, 2005

• #3

They are dead meat, they just don't know it yet...

They are dead meat, they just don't know it yet...

by the time your special ordered products finally arrive, they should be dead anyways.
Good advice joge, let me just reiterate some and provide some links.

I used Neem-Oil and it didn't seem to make any difference. I check the next day and spidermites were still all over plants.

Click to expand...

A mixture of pyrythium and neem will provide immediate knockdown and longer residual benefits from the Neem.


A mixture of Insecticial soap and neem will provide the same results, (death to spidermites), drenching the complete plant is critical as the pyrethium / insecticidal soap needs to contact the creepy crawly to "knock em down".

Neem by itself is highly effective by itself but does not have that satisfying immediate knockdown effect as do the other natural sourced insecticides.

Research has shown that neem has some systemic action in plants, meaning that the plants absorb it.

Spider - Mites
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=14439

Neem Oil and Why it works and what it does
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4485

Pyrethrin / Pyrethrum (as an organic insecticidal) fyi
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=211561#post211561

Spider mite development differs somewhat between species but a typical life cycle is as follows. The eggs are attached to fine silk webbing and hatch in approximately three days. The life cycle is composed of the egg, the larva, two nymphal stages (protonymph and deutonymph) and the adult. The length of time from egg to adult varies greatly depending on temperature. Under optimum conditions (approximately 80 degrees F), spider mites complete their development in five to twenty days. There are many over-lapping generations per year. The adult female is capable of laying several hundred eggs during her life.
http://creatures.ifas.ufl.edu/orn/twospotted_mite.htm

Welcome both of you to the forums here

 

Last edited: Oct 9, 2005

Z

zhugeliang

Member

• Oct 9, 2005

• #4

How is it that these mites end up on grows indoors? Can anyone explain to me how they get into the house and find our plants?

 

J

joge

Member

• Oct 9, 2005

• #5

I.M. BOGGLED what about CO2? ive heard that high concentrations of CO2 will kill adults like say 5000 PPM. heard anything about that?

 

I.M. Boggled

Certified Bloomin' Idiot

Veteran

• Oct 9, 2005

• #6

I hesitate to mention this method...

I hesitate to mention this method...

as it is potentially deadly if one is not good at following directions...such as...
You must vent out the CO2 before re-entering the room.

Releasing a full container of carbon dioxide into a sealed grow set-up will kill all mites and insects.
But, don't be in the room while the CO2 is being released!
[Nor in the area were the high concentration of CO2 gas will be vented to.]

It would be enough to KILL YOU!
"Danger, Will Robinson, danger, danger, danger"

I have seen this technique of bringing the CO2 to 10,000 ppm for 15 minutes to kill all pests.

You must vent out the CO2 before re-entering the room.

Two applications, five days apart, will kill all mites, pests and their offspring.

This method is/was recommended by the former Editor of another cannabis magazine. I have never used this method...so buyer beware.

Are there any forum members with experiences using co2 suffocation as there primary spider mite eradication technique?
Yay or Nay on this technique?

And dont forget now...
You must vent out the CO2 before re-entering the room.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
ICMag Thread:
toxic levels of C02?
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=44447

 

Last edited: Dec 16, 2006

vta

Active member

Veteran

• Oct 9, 2005

• #7

Has anybody used Hot Shots No Pest Strips? I heard they work great for mites. I have on in my GR and have not seen any of those fuggers yet. I had to use neem oil and a bomb last grow.

 

G

Guest

• Oct 9, 2005

• #8

vta said:

Has anybody used Hot Shots No Pest Strips? I heard they work great for mites. I have on in my GR and have not seen any of those fuggers yet. I had to use neem oil and a bomb last grow.

Click to expand...

same ones I use, the once and for all cure, and no dunkin, sprayin, rubbin or pizzin into the wind. the fuggers are dead and remain that way.

CBF

 

I.M. Boggled

Certified Bloomin' Idiot

Veteran

• Oct 10, 2005

• #9

No pest strips are highly effective at killing spider mites (creepy crawlies)

No pest strips are highly effective at killing spider mites (creepy crawlies)

I've known people that have used these strips for years and have never encountered a spider mite yet. Set 'em and forget 'em. Replace with a new one occasionally, it just doesn't get any easier than that.
I use them in out buildings to keep various poisonous spiders,scorpions and swarms of flies at bay.
Organic purists would of course tend to shun this type of product...to each his own.

Dichlorvos is also called DDVP.
Trade names include Apavap, Benfos, Cekusan, Cypona, Derriban, Derribante, Devikol, Didivane, Duo-Kill, Duravos, Elastrel, Fly-Bate, Fly-Die, Fly-Fighter, Herkol, Marvex, No-Pest, Prentox, Vaponite, Vapona, Verdican, Verdipor, and Verdisol. Trade names used outside of the U.S. include Doom, Nogos, and Nuvan.

What is dichlorvos?

Dichlorvos is an insecticide that is a dense colorless liquid. It has a sweetish smell and readily mixes with water. Dichlorvos used in pest control is diluted with other chemicals and used as a spray. It can also be incorporated into plastic that slowly releases the chemical.

Dichlorvos is used for insect control in food storage areas, green houses, and barns, and control of insects on livestock. It is not generally used on outdoor crops. Dichlorvos is sometimes used for insect control in workplaces and in the home. Veterinarians use it to control parasites on pets.

This linked fact sheet answers the most frequently asked health questions about dichlorvos.
"U.S Center For Disease Control" (C.D.C.)
http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/tfacts88.html

 

vta

Active member

Veteran

• Oct 10, 2005

• #10

IM Boggled, thanks for the reassurance. You sure have a plethora of info. I enjoy reading your posts and find them very useful. It says on the package to replace every 4 months but I think in a grow room with fans and such, you should replace them every 2 months.

 

B

B.C.

Non Conformist

Veteran

• Oct 10, 2005

• #11

Mites...

Mites...

I've tried co2... the meter only goes to 2000 ppm so I don't no how high it got but, I opened her up full blast for about two hours... didn't even piss 'em off... lol (yes my room is sealed tight too) it just didn't work, or not that I could tell anyway. The Hot Shot no pest strip killed em fuckin dead over night... take that you lil bastards !

 

know_one

Member

• Oct 10, 2005

• #12

Wow Joge and IM Boggled, you guys are awesome. Thanks to all for great advice. I'll be spraying today and will keep you up on progress.
zhugeliang, I think it's possible that my pets brought them into room.
Bottom line is, I need to be a lot more dilligent at keeping room very clean.
I will be doing no pest strips also.

You can run but you cannot hide!





Underside of leaf

 

know_one

Member

• Oct 10, 2005

• #13

If plants already have spidermites, do you simply place no pest strip at base of plant?
how can this be effective killing spidermites that have already made themselves at home on leafs and in flowers? Does the strip lure them from the plant?
Thanks!

B.C. said:

I've tried co2... the meter only goes to 2000 ppm so I don't no how high it got but, I opened her up full blast for about two hours... didn't even piss 'em off... lol (yes my room is sealed tight too) it just didn't work, or not that I could tell anyway. The Hot Shot no pest strip killed em fuckin dead over night... take that you lil bastards !

Click to expand...

 

Bonzo

Active member

Veteran

• Oct 10, 2005

• #14

Good question Know one, thats what i want to know , i just bought 2, just sprayed with safers last night as well.

WHERE DO YOU PUT THE HOT SHOT STRIPS??????

thanks

bonz

 

G

Guest

• Oct 10, 2005

• #15

just hang from a cord, they emit the shit that kills the little bastards

CBF

 

G

Guest

• Oct 10, 2005

• #16

and yeah its like over night man, destroys um

CBF

 

Bonzo

Active member

Veteran

• Oct 10, 2005

• #17

Thank you CBF, should they be above the plants or down inbetween?

thanks again

bonz

 

G

Guest

• Oct 10, 2005

• #18

Bonzo said:

Thank you CBF, should they be above the plants or down inbetween?

thanks again

bonz

Click to expand...

anywhere in the room, mine hang off the light cord across the ceilin in the corner outta the way.

my ceilin is only 4ft so id guess there at the plant tops

CBF

 

Bonzo

Active member

Veteran

• Oct 10, 2005

• #19

Thanks again CBF , Sorry for all the questions, just want to to eliminate the little fuckers. Have you noticed they attack different strains wuth different vigor? For example i had a White Russian and they just attacked the poor girl, i had to get rid of her, i had no choice. I have seen this selective attack and destroy with Powdery Mildew but did not know it applied to mites as well. Right now my plants are so close together they could easily get from one to another but seem to like a couple AKs i have next to each other. Hmmmmm

Thanks again for all the info all of you and keep fightin' the good fight!

peace

bonz

 

know_one

Member

• Oct 10, 2005

• #20

thanks all for the help and great info. The strip is hung, I have sprayed with neem oil, and a good room cleaning is obviously in order.


Here's a few more close up pics of flowers.








Thanks again to all of you!