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The Mill's Pride Club

sumo

sumo

Member
Hey, when Maliboo started the legendary C-13 club noone knew how ubiquitous these cabs would become. C-13,C-22,C-1,C-24 and so on. They are heavy as hell and no two are exactly alike. It isn't a grow cab it is a lifestyle. It is in this spirit that I attempt to jumpstart this think tank of collective wisdom. With the inclusive name of The Mill's Pride Club it encompasses all who had a spare $100 and a Home Depot within an hours drive. It also represents personal use growers. These are the growers who are trying to please themselves the toughest critic. Trying to achieve the highest quality for the least amount of output. Dig? Not the Commercial grower. I have not felt threatened by all this hoo ha but am concerned for those with commercial interests for where will I get my affordable genetics? I appreciate all who have taken risks for my benefit. I became a member of Overgrow because I appreciated and believed in them. Still do. You want your heroes to be perfect? Tear down my grow? Someone has to keep going and I bet those cool headed Mill's Pride growers didn't skip a beat. Hell we have to keep going or we run out. Subsistance growing, trying to stay within misdemeanor laws in our state. You're still there right?
 
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Jnugg

Jnugg

Active member
Veteran
Sup Sumo!

I remember reading some of your threads when I was setting up my C13.I wish I would have went with the 250 HPS over the 400 HPS but hey whats a little more money spent when you are trying to perfect your grow to suit your every demand and need right!


Any other Mills Pride Growers out there?
 
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sumo

sumo

Member
I started with 250w hps and used it for 3 1/2 grows. Then upgraded to 400w hps and use it for whole grow. I thought I would put 250w back in for veg but am too lazy. Burning the 400w 24 hrs right now on some AK48 two week old seedlings. They will need all that wattage soon enough. I didn't start a bunch of threads. Mostly just the third incarnation of c-13 club and sumo's c-13.
 
Jnugg

Jnugg

Active member
Veteran
Well seing as I have never worked with anything but 400 watt and 430 watt HID'S,have a C13 and you my friend had a 250 in one I have a few good questions for you.

Would the 250 be a good option in a dual stage (perpetual ie;flower and veg sections) C13?

I know that it could be pulled off with a 400 watt HID in a cool tube and some serious climate control although that is more power than I would wish to pay for :)


On average how dense of buds does a 250 watt HID produce if used in a small SOG or small in general garden (small as in plants no taller than a foot to a foot and a half max)?

I know the 400's give good results and even better when growing a 100% indica,just wondering how a 250 would yeild in my "planned" setup.

I was hoping to get a 250/270 watt HPS in a store bought 6" kool tube (MD Hydro has the best deal) and for the first grow connect a 6" x4" reducer on the cool tube so I can continue using my 4" 170 cfm inline (plan on upgrading to a 449cfm 6" vortex with ss speed controller).

The Veg/clone section ould be lit by either Four 27 watt CFL's or four 2' dual bulb fluoro fixtures and be vented by means of active exhuast (small axial fans) and passive intakes.

I hope to make the flower section at the top and make it about 3.5'-4' tall and the veg section at the bottom about 2'-2.5' tall.

Do you think the veg section would have enough room for say 6-10 clones,6 veging plants (1 week max) and a small bonsai mother?


Thanks for any help you could provide sumo,and great to see yet another fellow OG'er here at IC.
 
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sumo

sumo

Member
I use a 400w hps with a simple gull wing reflector. My c13 is in a basement with ambient temps around 70f. If your ambient temps are around this you dont need cool tube in my opinion. I too run a 4" inline and with adequate intakes they move some air. Mine blows into SIS homemade carbon filter and the speed control is on low. Still with no canopy the temperature is 80f. With canopy the temerature is low 70's. I would start simple and complicate as needed.
 
G

Guest

400w MH/HPS switchable and a 210cfm and scrubber all in a C25 with 6 plants at week 2 of flower right now.


 
Jnugg

Jnugg

Active member
Veteran
BucketBoy.....The biggest was the C24? (Back when they offered the originals like C13) and I beleive it measured 2' D x 4'-4.5' W x 6' Tall.

I Know the new one measures 18" x 4' x 6'


JumblyJoe....Like the setup.How in the hell did you manage to stuff all that ducting in there bro :)
 
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G

Guest

Jnugg said:
BucketBoy.....The biggest was the C24? (Back when they offered the originals like C13) and I beleive it measured 2' D x 4'-4.5' W x 6' Tall.

I Know the new one measures 18" x 4' x 6'


JumblyJoe....Like the setup.How in the hell did you manage to stuff all that ducting in there bro :)
Click to expand...

I learned as I went.

Lessons:
- 400W aint EVER getting cooled by PC fans. Ever. Anyone who tells you otherwise lives in Canada.
- I went C25 for smaller footprint, but once you add PVC pipes for intake, I lost too much floor space internally - B&H photo for darkroom velours, sooo much better, and 100% light proof.
- I bought something with a hood, then needed to go cooltube to keep temps down, and the cooltube was 6" instead of 4" like my fan and all holes were, and the cooltube is "slightly" too wide for a c25 as well.

If I was to rebuild, I would sell the 4" fan and C25 to a local buyer and go C22 (wider) and a 6" vortex to pick up the extra cubic feet. (and get rid of those damned 4/6 reducers
 
Jnugg

Jnugg

Active member
Veteran
Yeah,I am in the south and even in the winter warm temps can be a bitch.I have found that since my outdoor climate is the way it is that I need to blast my central A/C all day and night and that costs way too much money,notinterested in a portable A/C either.

I use an air cooled hood and it is my thought that you get way better/more efficient air cooling with a cool tube (6") ie; less time for the warm air to circulate in the hood meaning greater cooling overall.

Maybe I will try with the 400 and a cooltube but I really just don't think that that is my best bet seeing as I am trying to keep my elec. bill as close to it is now with just the 400 HPS and 4" inline exhuast fan.

I figured if a dual stage were to be done that that would be my best bet becuase I my self can easily smoke an ounce to and ounce and a half or more in a month and I am supplying my other half aswell.

With a 250 in a cool tube I could easily use a 6" inline ran on a ss speed controller at low setting and get optimum cooling and ventilation for the flowering section.

a 130cfm fan cooling a 250 watt HID would make your grows temps about 6 degrees fairenheight above ambient and a 265cfm fan would keep it 3-4F above ambient and finally a 400cfm would keep temps 1-2 degrees above ambient.

Cool tube is the way to go when battling temps inmo and that is what I will be getting next month.I'll have to make due with my 4" 170cfm inline though and some 6" x 4" reducers to attach ducting from the kool tube to the fan.Then in april I'll buy some Fluoro fixtures and axial fans unless temps become to unreasonable then I will just go ahead and get the 6" inline and speed controller and hold off on the fuoros and axials for another month.

This is a good thread and hopefully we can keep it going....
 
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sumo

sumo

Member
Jars of what is left of latest grow. Gifting 20grams or less is a misdemeanor in my state. I gifted about 20grams on two separate occasions.This is what is left. I may never talk specific quantities again considering the crap thats been going down. It aint about quantity anyway but quality. There wasn't much consistancy from seed with the white rhino but the three white rhino plants are very good smoke. What sumo is growing now. 3 shishkaberry, 1 lemon, 8 Nir AK48 two weeks from germ.




 
wickedpete66

wickedpete66

Active member
man trying to get the doors adjusted on the c-24 is a freakin pain in the a$$. just cant seem to get an even gap all the way around. I got the top and bottom on with the 3/16 weatherstripping, but the sides I cant get. I think I;m gonna just use some black duct tape on the side of the doors
 
bostrom155

bostrom155

Active member
wickedpete66 said:
man trying to get the doors adjusted on the c-24 is a freakin pain in the a$$. just cant seem to get an even gap all the way around. I got the top and bottom on with the 3/16 weatherstripping, but the sides I cant get. I think I;m gonna just use some black duct tape on the side of the doors
Click to expand...
My buddy who helps and grows helped me, he had to push in on the door with all might, while i screwed them in real quick. I just need to get fans in mine and I think i'm good, aside from minor tinkering :chin:

Screw the inner screw of each hidge almost all the way out then tighten outer (on the right) then go back and turn the inner screw in for final adjustments.
 
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bostrom155

bostrom155

Active member
Bucket Boy said:
Whats the biggest of all the cabinets?
Dimensions also..

Thanks
Click to expand...

Inside dem's are 19" deep, 47" wide and about 6' tall for the C24 thats the biggest I know of, and it's big
 
Scientist

Scientist

Member
:wave: Howdy

C25
300w HPS
210cfm grotek inline for cab ventilation
33cfm for light-heat extraction
Fixed light height/movable shelf
4 1 1/2" intake PVC's

Temps run 2.4C above ambient room temp. Currently the light has been on for hours and it is 24.4C at the canapy, 8-12" from the glass.

Completly stealth with the rubb a dub on top to hide the ballasts. I wired a male plug going out the bottom that acts as the main supply for the whole growbox. This male goes to a 4way outlet on the bottom of the cab to power humidifiers, fans, CFLs, anything. From here power goes up to the upper section of the cab to a two way. Here is where the fan for the light is on a timer, and another timer strip controlls the grotek and lights.

I highly suggest this to anyone who needs a medium size concealed area who doesn't want to deal with ventalation issues with closet grows. I exhast straight into my room, and look at my temps. :yoinks:. The BEST idea i ever got from overgrow, bar none. Thanks to sumo. Your operation motivated me to construct this beast.












Let's see some more cabs from MILLs!! Bring it ONNN!!! :woohoo:
happy growin :rasta:
 
G

Guest

Scientist said:
No. I have run out of money for now. I plan on making one if the stench gets too bad from 3 girls.
Click to expand...
I did the same - bought the scrubber about a month from seed...

Total cost of mine was under 100 installed (all parts)
 
tokinsmokin

tokinsmokin

Active member
sumo, man did you have to advertise the company Mills Pride, its great that they've given us a big space to work with for grows, but man do these things suck. They are a total piece of junk, I wish there was another option.

With that said I just built a C24, and am getting ready to start the first that I know of, Multi Flow 2 gal buckets in a cab under a 600. I'm also going to be adding a few other interesting upgrades to this system, lets just say its not going to only be ebb & flow its going to be a bio-ebb&flow. I'll explain more when I start my thread.
 
sumo

sumo

Member
tokinsmokin. You bought one.Pros. For the money these cabs are a good choice. They are true if put together properly making them easy to light proof. They are brilliant white which is very reflective. They look like they belong in a home as opposed to a home built box which may stick out more. They are made of sawdust ,glue, and laminate. The sawdust would otherwise be a waste material so no trees are being chopped down just to make these cabs. For $100 and same amount of time, I could not have fabricated anything that looks anything near as clean as my c13.
Cons. They are way heavy like any particle board. There is no give or flex. If not put together properly or if someone tries to stand it upright incorrectly they can self destruct and are not easy to glue or fix like wood.
If anyone knows of good alternative lets hear it.
 
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