Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???
- Thread starter spleebale
- Start date
For fuck sakes! I know how ya feel. As a seasoned grower I've had my share of the BS. Root pests generally appear as an iron def., which appears as interveinal chlorosis. That fading look we all dread. The marginal necrosis may be good news, oddly. You might just have an imbalance. You know what to do...flush, check runoff, etc,...
Next. have you seen aphids? Cause another diminisher of yields are fucking nematodes! They are a root pest that you need a scope to see and the symptoms are nute defs, like chlorosis. And root rot has same symptoms.
So if you know your nutes are dialed and you have fading, iron def chlorosis, suspect the following:
Any root pest or rot: FGs, RAs, Nematodes, or root rot.
Next. have you seen aphids? Cause another diminisher of yields are fucking nematodes! They are a root pest that you need a scope to see and the symptoms are nute defs, like chlorosis. And root rot has same symptoms.
So if you know your nutes are dialed and you have fading, iron def chlorosis, suspect the following:
Any root pest or rot: FGs, RAs, Nematodes, or root rot.
I
Iron_Lion
its like amateur hour up in here, who doesn't know what a gnat looks like lol.
Minister
Member
Tyga.
You wont necessarily catch any aphids on the sticky paper, they can easily have eradicated your garten in their nymf stage, only hatching a few flying individuals, who by the way don't seem too tricked by yellow.
The aphids are not seen by just looking.
You need to look real hard, the specimen pictured above, is the size of a pinhead or even a punctuation mark....
Good news is, that they move pretty actively.
Look around the drain holes have magnification at hand and be somewhat patient.
Btw if roots sprouted out of drain holes, have lost their white, and die back, you have a
good tell tale going.
All I'm saying is that you can have both gnats and aphids at large in there.
Anyone experienced weak stems, which snaps like an asparagus, and a phospher defficient purple look, due to severe aphid infestation?
Thanks
You wont necessarily catch any aphids on the sticky paper, they can easily have eradicated your garten in their nymf stage, only hatching a few flying individuals, who by the way don't seem too tricked by yellow.
The aphids are not seen by just looking.
You need to look real hard, the specimen pictured above, is the size of a pinhead or even a punctuation mark....
Good news is, that they move pretty actively.
Look around the drain holes have magnification at hand and be somewhat patient.
Btw if roots sprouted out of drain holes, have lost their white, and die back, you have a
good tell tale going.
All I'm saying is that you can have both gnats and aphids at large in there.
Anyone experienced weak stems, which snaps like an asparagus, and a phospher defficient purple look, due to severe aphid infestation?
Thanks
If you can't help, AND ya goota be an azz, ya reap as ye sow.
I
Iron_Lion
Skunky McNugget
Active member
Has anyone used Tanlin concentrate to kill root aphids? Grow store guy said it works in one aplication? Apparently it is microscopic crystals which when ingested swell and puncture guts, killing root aphid.
Sure if you've been growin for a minute you can smell an FG from a mile away, but this is a forum for growers who have a problem and need an answer.
There are no dumb questions from those who want to learn...
I have read much of this thread and am still wondering when and if to feed our girls while treating them. I am in Sunshine#4 soilless medium and use Hesi Nutes. Synthetic NOT Organic. We are in Dirt and smart pots. I hand water. My concern is that many of these treatment methods could possibly react with the chemicals in my nutrient regime. My grow is in different stages. I am mostly concerned with my 2 veg stages. I have treated once with Spinosad (Quick jerk reaction when I discovered them) then again 3 days later with Bayer (IMID) after further research. I have let them dry out for about 5 days. I haven't seen any flying or crawling creepers since I treated them with the Imid. They are now ready for another watering/feeding/treatment?...I am following a Mode of Action so the next round I am giving them something different. Either a Pyrethrin or Bacillus thuringiensis. I am wondering which to use considering I am using a synthetic nutrient line (HESI)? I feel my girls are hungry if the pots are dry...good sign. Should I feed them with nutes at this point or go one more round with Aphid treatment minus nutes? I am getting conflicting responses on this throughout the thread which I am contributing to the fact that there are many different methods of growing. ie: coco, soil, soilless, hydro, ebb/flow, hand water etc....In summary I grow in a soilless medium(sunshine#4). Use HESI, a synthetic nutrient line and hand water. Have treated once with Spinosad and once with Bayer(IMID). Pots are dry now after 5 days. No visibable signs of aphids as of today. Can I now give them some nutes? If so can I mix Pyrethrins or Bacillus thuringiensis with 1/2 strength nutes including hygrozyme to help clean out the dead roots?
Farmgirl,
By all means go ahead and feed. Speaking from a lot of experience with this worst of all pests, also use a good root stimulator in your nute mix. The best I know of is Roots Excelurator. Bayer has combo products with Imid and chem. ferts., so they should be compatible. Tip: regardless of what you use, when you soak the root ball with insecticide, let the containers sit in the solution of 20 minutes so the entire root ball gets soaked. Also, BT has no effect on RA's. Good luck. -granger
By all means go ahead and feed. Speaking from a lot of experience with this worst of all pests, also use a good root stimulator in your nute mix. The best I know of is Roots Excelurator. Bayer has combo products with Imid and chem. ferts., so they should be compatible. Tip: regardless of what you use, when you soak the root ball with insecticide, let the containers sit in the solution of 20 minutes so the entire root ball gets soaked. Also, BT has no effect on RA's. Good luck. -granger
So when phylloxera attacked all the grapevines, the solution was to graft all grape varieties to a texas root stock that is resistent. I have been reading about Hops and it seems that root aphids are not a problem with this plant. I propose that we try grafting marijuana to hops roots. Hops seem to be the only plant marijuana will graft to. Most of my research discussed grafting hops to marijuana roots. I was only able to find one mention of grafting marijuana to hops roots:
http://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/502330-grafting-marijuana-plants-possible.html#post6918539
I will be ordering some hops seeds however they take at least six weeks to germinate.
http://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/502330-grafting-marijuana-plants-possible.html#post6918539
I will be ordering some hops seeds however they take at least six weeks to germinate.
Thanks Granger! Do you happen to know if Pyrethrins mixed IN with my nutrient solution will negate the effects of the Powerzyme or Hygrozyme etc...? From what I have read Pyrethrins kills the beneficials so would that mean that adding Hygrozyme to my nute mix with Pyrethrins would be pointless? Sorry for the repetitiveness but I am trying to be as thorough and diligent as possible. Any help is very much appreciated!
farmgirl,
Zyme products are not inoculants, but I don't know if pyrethrins would negate their effects. My guess is-no. I've never seen anything one way or the tuther about any effects of microherd.
If it were me, I'd proceed with both an inoculant and Hygrozyme, but I would repeat both probably weekly till I'm sure that the pyrethrin is flushed, and the critters should be established. Good luck. -granger
Zyme products are not inoculants, but I don't know if pyrethrins would negate their effects. My guess is-no. I've never seen anything one way or the tuther about any effects of microherd.
If it were me, I'd proceed with both an inoculant and Hygrozyme, but I would repeat both probably weekly till I'm sure that the pyrethrin is flushed, and the critters should be established. Good luck. -granger
Very interesting! You might consider calling around to home brew shops and see if they have any rhizomes for sale. I have several hop plants growing,which I acquired from a root pulled out with some growth. That was in the spring. The fall transplants are just the root. Of the several dozen people I know growing hops none started from seed.
Please start a thread on this if you proceed!
Very interesting! You might consider calling around to home brew shops and see if they have any rhizomes for sale. I have several hop plants growing,which I acquired from a root pulled out with some growth. That was in the spring. The fall transplants are just the root. Of the several dozen people I know growing hops none started from seed.
Please start a thread on this if you proceed![/QUOTE]
Yes it seems that rhizomes are the way to go for hops since the seeds could be male or female and I would be worried that a male hops plant may have some sort of hormonal influence on the female cannabis. However no one has rhizomes for sale until spring. If anyone would be willing to send my a hops rhizome sooner let me know!
Please start a thread on this if you proceed![/QUOTE]
Yes it seems that rhizomes are the way to go for hops since the seeds could be male or female and I would be worried that a male hops plant may have some sort of hormonal influence on the female cannabis. However no one has rhizomes for sale until spring. If anyone would be willing to send my a hops rhizome sooner let me know!
If you think RAs are bad, wait until you experience Broad mites. They are a thousand times worse.
