What's new
  • ICMag with help from Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest in November! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!

The Search for Trip Weed

ThaiBliss

Well-known member
Veteran
Is that perlite mulch?
I do use perlite in my soil mix, but the sun is reflecting on the soil in a way that makes it look like there is much more in it. It's only about 20% perlite, at most. Sometimes watering makes the perlite float to the top from first inch of soil. But in person, I think the red clay kinda has a sheen that is adding to the look in the photo.
 

Travis Kelcee

Active member
Growing long flowering sativas indoors in the mid atlantic region of the US I found that temps made a huge difference in my setup.

Much better results if started to flower them in November/December. The grow room temps would drop down to the low 60's at night. Compared to 80 - 85 with the lights on.

I had 2 keepers, one went 14 weeks and the other 16 weeks to finish. The difference between harvesting in March vs August was very noticeable.

I played around with light cycles, MH, HPS, combined MH and HPS, supplemental/limited UVA and UVC.

The first run of Nevil's Haze purchased from Heaven's Stairway in 1999 was harvested in mid summer. I wasn't impressed. The clones harvested in mid winter much closer to what I expected.
 

sdd420

Well-known member
Veteran
Growing long flowering sativas indoors in the mid atlantic region of the US I found that temps made a huge difference in my setup.

Much better results if started to flower them in November/December. The grow room temps would drop down to the low 60's at night. Compared to 80 - 85 with the lights on.

I had 2 keepers, one went 14 weeks and the other 16 weeks to finish. The difference between harvesting in March vs August was very noticeable.

I played around with light cycles, MH, HPS, combined MH and HPS, supplemental/limited UVA and UVC.

The first run of Nevil's Haze purchased from Heaven's Stairway in 1999 was harvested in mid summer. I wasn't impressed. The clones harvested in mid winter much closer to what I expected.
LED lights help a lot, smaller containers help too. 10/14 light schedule to finish
 

Travis Kelcee

Active member
LED lights help a lot, smaller containers help too. 10/14 light schedule to finish
Thanks friend, those things have been tried with varying degrees of success.

10/14 Light cycles usually left me with lower yields and quality. I would be able to go 12/12 for couple weeks then down to 11/13 to finish. However I would increment 15 minutes more dark over the next 4 weeks until I got to 11/13 and they would always finish at 14 and 16 weeks respectively.

For me it was temp differential. Keeping in mind I was indoor soil grower with no climate control in my room. So it's not a one size fits all solution.
 

Verdant Whisperer

Well-known member
I've also heard that from many cannabis aficionados I respect. Do you have any thoughts as to why the longest flowering plants would have the best high?

I'm in the far North and have been working on the opposite side of the cannabis spectrum with autoflowers. My dream is to bring the best of NLD to Autoflowers. The question is, can the high from an extremely long-flowing plant be brought down to a plant that finishes in 120 days from sprouting?
Your doing a similiar project to my friend rajas, looking for semi-auto long flowering sativa, hes building a hybrid tailored to this, the reason people say the longer flowering sativas are more complex is because they are, they have longer life cycles and put more energy into longer lasting terpenes, less volatile generally, and have more time for the existing terpenes to cook like a soup and transform into more complex ones, even some chemicals like caretenoidss responsible for color, when they break down contribute to certain terpenes producion Ionene for example. in order to find the plants your looking for fast onset to flowering with extended period you need a specific hormonal profile. High florigen, Low Auxins, Low Gibberalins, High cytokinins. The way to measure florigen without devices i came up with is to compare leaf measurements, use ratio from width and length, the faster the change from one fan leaf to next skinnier wise means the plant has higher florigen. for example a plant with 3:1 ratio first leaves that goes to 4:1 then 5:1 will have more florigen than a plant that goes from first leaf 3:1 then 3.5:1 then 4:1.
1732343243833.jpeg
 

gorilla ganja

Well-known member
the reason people say the longer flowering sativas are more complex is because they are, they have longer life cycles and put more energy into longer lasting terpenes, less volatile generally, and have more time for the existing terpenes to cook
That's what I was getting at with my question. If certain cannabinoids/terpenes take longer to develop and therefore cannot be made in a shorter flowering plant.
I just made an Ace Malawi x Panama into an autoflower. Maybe next year, I will grow out the Malawi/Panama autos and some full-season plants and get them tested for terpenes to compare.
Thanks for your input :tiphat:
I think it takes skill that most people don't have to breed for the high alone, and put other traits a distant second in priority.
I hear you there. It's not just skill, but it's also hard to test lots of plants to decide which is "Best," and of course, what I find "Best" might not be the same as the next guy's "Best."

Once again, I call out VISC Burmese and ACE Bangi Haze.
I've heard good things about the Burmese. And one of my next projects is to make Aces
Bangi Haze x Congo into an autoflower.

Peace GG
 
Top