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Your thoughts on my Central A/C unit

Securityfirst

Active member
Hi everyone, I traded this Softsound 1000 plus central A/c unit for an ounce and a half of bud:smile:. It does not say what the BTU's are and I was just wondering if anyone can give me an estimate as to what they think the BTU's are? Im trying to cool down a 6k room with a 6 site co2 burner controlled by a Sentinel controller that gets to be very hot!:dueling:

Do youguys think this unit is a one ton , two ton?

Do youguys think it is enough for me to run all six lights and the Co2 burner at the same time at 1500ppm?

Has anyone used central A/C sucessfully to cool their 6k plus room?

How many BTU's is this A/C IYO?

Keep in mind it is a sealed room and the lights are vented by a couple 8 inch vortex fans.

Brand Name I think is Kenmore

I value all your opinions

Thank you

And I apologize Imageshack website is down so I had to paste URL's from Flikr

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2469/3706713217_4b677bb87e_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2672/3706713225_31102255bd.jpg
 

Securityfirst

Active member
Pics working?

Pics working?

picture.php


picture.php
 
M

micro gro

I'd bet it's a 2-ton minimum. They don't really make condensers that big for sub-24000 BTU units, usually that kind of capacity is left up to mini-split's and window-mount's.

The question / problem isn't the BTU rating... it's whether the unit has any / enough refrigerant left in it, or if it will (likely) need more refrigerant added to it considering it's a used unit. A trained HVAC tech could tell you, using manifold gauges and such. I couldn't.

Assuming the compressor, air handler, and all else is in good working condition, you could possibly hire a HVAC guy to hook up the unit (hourly labor, something like $40-75/hr), add refrigerant (something like $40/Lb) as necessary, and test the unit (hourly labor).

If the lights are air-cooled and the unit is working, I can tell you that you'll have enough cooling power regardless of BTU's. If not air-cooled, I'd think you'll need a minimum of 3 tons (36000 BTU, something in the 3-4 ton range would be good.

Does the outdoor unit have any sort of markings or plate or anything?
 
M

micro gro

Holy shit I just found some specs on the SoftSound series. "Up to" 10 SEER... :yoinks: that's ridiculously low, especially for a split system. I know you're paying premium electrical rates, so running this unit (compared to a 14+ SEER system available for < $3k installed) will cost you a lot more in the long run... assuming it even works in the first place... and after paying hefty re-connect fees...

Buying a used system like this is hardly ever a good idea, especially true when its history / condition / status is unknown. It sure is quiet, though. One of the quietest in the industry. But you don't need that.

If you'd like I can help you effectively cool that garage with a different, smaller unit... or if you insist on such a large unit and maybe non-air-cooled, help shop for a different system. Call me if you want help with any of that.
 
G

Guest 18340

I'll second everything micro gro just said:yes:, the man knows his shit.
 
Whats the model #? it will tell you the BTU's in it. If it's 2 ton 10 seer, it's workable but small for 6k w/burner, probably would never shut off with lights on.
 

Securityfirst

Active member
I'd bet it's a 2-ton minimum. They don't really make condensers that big for sub-24000 BTU units, usually that kind of capacity is left up to mini-split's and window-mount's.

The question / problem isn't the BTU rating... it's whether the unit has any / enough refrigerant left in it, or if it will (likely) need more refrigerant added to it considering it's a used unit. A trained HVAC tech could tell you, using manifold gauges and such. I couldn't.

Assuming the compressor, air handler, and all else is in good working condition, you could possibly hire a HVAC guy to hook up the unit (hourly labor, something like $40-75/hr), add refrigerant (something like $40/Lb) as necessary, and test the unit (hourly labor).

If the lights are air-cooled and the unit is working, I can tell you that you'll have enough cooling power regardless of BTU's. If not air-cooled, I'd think you'll need a minimum of 3 tons (36000 BTU, something in the 3-4 ton range would be good.

Does the outdoor unit have any sort of markings or plate or anything?

Id say it is prob a two ton minimum as well but I have no experience with them . My parents were always to cheap to buy a good a/c:noway:

Funny enough the guy who traded it to us for the bud has a roomate that is a hvac tech and he is willing to do all the refrigirant checking and stuff for bud as well. I gotta tell ya its music to my ears.

The lights are air cooled with an 8 inch vortex and we suck very cool air from the middle of the house so the highest it gets in there with no co2 burning is like 90 degrees. Which sucks of course.

Micro, it is a real remote grow for me and im not able to look at the markings right now. Like a member of my family says , I wish I could clone me!:yoinks:
 

Securityfirst

Active member
Holy shit I just found some specs on the SoftSound series. "Up to" 10 SEER... :yoinks: that's ridiculously low, especially for a split system. I know you're paying premium electrical rates, so running this unit (compared to a 14+ SEER system available for < $3k installed) will cost you a lot more in the long run... assuming it even works in the first place... and after paying hefty re-connect fees...

Buying a used system like this is hardly ever a good idea, especially true when its history / condition / status is unknown. It sure is quiet, though. One of the quietest in the industry. But you don't need that.

If you'd like I can help you effectively cool that garage with a different, smaller unit... or if you insist on such a large unit and maybe non-air-cooled, help shop for a different system. Call me if you want help with any of that.

Hey Micro thank you for all of your help! Are you saying this is a split system? If so it did not come with the wall mounts necessary for inside. Ill have to ck.

I couldnt agree with you more about this being a potential nightmare. But for a few ounces it is worth the try. And I most def want you to help me but I just hired a whole crew for a project north of youguys. I also wont have the cash til next mnth. Not to mention I have the cheapest grow partner in American history. I will give you a ring shortly though.

Thanks Evlme2

Johnny -- Thanks dude, I am gonna have that checked on
 

Securityfirst

Active member
Model # and such on the side panel

Model # and such on the side panel

Whats the model #? it will tell you the BTU's in it. If it's 2 ton 10 seer, it's workable but small for 6k w/burner, probably would never shut off with lights on.

Model # is CACO36AK

So does that mean 36000 BTU?

And Micro and everyone keep in mind this unit is only gonna be used for the 6k garage grow.......

VOLTAGE is 208/230

VOLT MIN IS 197

COMPRESSOR HP

AMPS 60

DESIGN PRESSURE PSI-G HIGH 300

Thats It.
 
Yup, three ton, 10 seer. I'm assuming it's R22. That should be plenty for 6k esp. if they're air cooled.You didn't get the air handler? You might have a hard time with it being 10 seer. They phased out everything under 13 seer a few years back, along with R22.
 

Securityfirst

Active member
Yup, three ton, 10 seer. I'm assuming it's R22. That should be plenty for 6k esp. if they're air cooled.You didn't get the air handler? You might have a hard time with it being 10 seer. They phased out everything under 13 seer a few years back, along with R22.

You mean getting the parts right?

How many BTU's is it?

Thanks Johnny
 

Securityfirst

Active member
Just one piece , the one showing

And what sayeth you about me venting it to an additional bedroom with 6k more and tank c02?
 
You need an air handler and they only make 13 seer and up nowadays. You may be able to mix seer ratings but would require a skilled A/C tech. as your outdoor unit is most likely designed for a piston valve and not a TXV. I wouldn't recommend it, though.

Are you talking about adding another zone and a flip flop or just venting cool air to another room?
 

Securityfirst

Active member
My buddys roomate says he has all parts necessary so I will update when complete.

The other question is whether or not there is enough electricity as it is 60 amps and the dryer plug is only 30 and the stove may be 30 or 60. I have to check.
 
I wouldn't throw it out if you have the matching set. A slightly inefficient A/C is a whole lot better than no A/C. Once you get a few runs in, you can upgrade. There are still a shit ton of 10-12 seer house systems out there.

It shouldn't take 60 amps to cool, that is for the electric heat. Is it a heat pump w/backup heat strip? You should see a reversing valve (looks a "T" with four legs and solenoid valves) in the condenser if it is.
 
R

randude101

Someone told me a ton per 500 square feet residential. So if you have hot lights in an area that size I would double that.

Does that help anyone?

Do you need a formula to convert kw or btu to tons?
 
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