Ibechillin
Masochist Educator
Thats a killer deal on those bulbs man, what a score!
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I honestly thought you made a typo the other day never knew Hortilux was putting out an eye MH? I always use the HPS for the added blue spectrum. I ran MH Son T Agro way way back but always next to a Hortilux HPS. Ditched the MH for twin HPS 1k's never turned back. I do use T5's, T8's and the occasional CFL for veg or mom's depending on needs. I am interested to check this Horti MH out though will look into it further as its Horti!
U
useless.gardens
the "blue mh" bulb by hortilux is awesome. its one of the best start to finish (agricultural) HID lamps out there.
i just picked up 2 @ "super hps" by hortilux for $35. another killer deal. i'll be able to change out to a more orange/red (fall type) spectrum the last few weeks of flower. gonna be making some beautiful nuggets. got bulbs to spare in case of emergency.
even got an extra ballast. just in case.
i dont do the 1000w lamps... im a fan of the 400w-er.
definitely very happy with the 315w cmh i bought too. veg plants look bomb under it.
gonna finish my first run with the 400w ge cmh conversion bulb to show everybody how nice the flowers turn out.
just got in from a plumbing supply hvac supply store. first time i ever been to a place like that. couldnt find a 12x3.25x6 stack boot on a 90* so i ordered one online. paid $14 too much. then, i go to the home creepo to grab a 10x3 register box to 6" round on a 90*... they dont have it nor do they stock it. i get lucky. there's a guy in the isle that tells me about this plumbing/hvac store up the street.
now, at the hvac/plumbing store, i can get exactly what i need, get killer advice, and support a local company. his prices are sweet too. register boot cost me $6 and 100 self tappers cost me $2.50. sweet!
and, lucky me, i was gonna cut the wrong size hole in the floor (fix it with duct tape & liquid nail?) ...so glad i went to a real hvac store. guy was/is crazy knowledgeable.
moving the vent line over a rafter is gonna be a breeze & i'll cut the right size hole in the floor. stoked.
I used the Hortilix dual-arc 1000 watt bulb for a while with good results... it’s like a 600 watt hps and a 400 watt mh bulb all in one...
Some grows I’d use the bulb the whole way through, from veg through flower... others I’d just switch to they’re 1000 watt super hps...
The price of The dual arc bulb is why I eventually stopped using it... something like $189.00 ... this was few years ago though so maybe now you can find them cheaper...
I always used Hortilux bulbs but they’re just expensive ...!!!...
In December I bought some bulbs from a company I never tried yet...
They’re called yield lab, you may have heard of them... well the main reason I bought the bulbs was because I got three 1000 watt hps bulbs for like $90.00 ... also got a free 1000watt mh bulb when I purchased something else...
I read a report where they tested like 5 or 6 different 1000 watt hps bulbs... Hortilux came in first place but yield lab was right behind them and at a fraction of the cost...!!!...
So far so good...!!!...
I hate looking at my plants and taking pics with those hps bulbs on... looks so much better with a mh...
Some grows I’d use the bulb the whole way through, from veg through flower... others I’d just switch to they’re 1000 watt super hps...
The price of The dual arc bulb is why I eventually stopped using it... something like $189.00 ... this was few years ago though so maybe now you can find them cheaper...
I always used Hortilux bulbs but they’re just expensive ...!!!...
In December I bought some bulbs from a company I never tried yet...
They’re called yield lab, you may have heard of them... well the main reason I bought the bulbs was because I got three 1000 watt hps bulbs for like $90.00 ... also got a free 1000watt mh bulb when I purchased something else...
I read a report where they tested like 5 or 6 different 1000 watt hps bulbs... Hortilux came in first place but yield lab was right behind them and at a fraction of the cost...!!!...
So far so good...!!!...
I hate looking at my plants and taking pics with those hps bulbs on... looks so much better with a mh...
U
useless.gardens
https://www.htgsupply.com/products/ge-400-watt-ceramic-light-bulb-cmh-lamp
you can find the bulb way cheaper. i got 3 @ $30 ($90) to my door.
Just curious why you don’t go bigger than a 400?
U
useless.gardens
amps.
& heat.
for me, 1000w making about 3000+ btu of heat is too much ...& thats just one source of light.
plus, you need some ceiling height to rock a 1000w lamp. ive never been so lucky as a basement grower.
i get plenty good results from 400w lights & get a chance to run mixed spectrum lamps.
my last space, i was using hps, mh, led, & cmh in flower.
i want to have a large grow space but not at the cost of a bunch of amps in one or two fixtures.
just what works for me. different strokes for folks.
U
useless.gardens
what do you care what i do with my money?
id buy seeds every week if i could. lol.
right now, im about that gear.
need my own little hydro store.
working on a self contained growing apparatus.
STOP! Put the Sawzall down and step back! Seriously what are you cutting a hole in the floor to vent?
Is this for the new furnace? Why can't you use the venting from the old oil unit?
U
useless.gardens
no man should ever have put down the cutty destroying device.
pry that sawzall from my cold dead hands.
i cant vent down that rafter channel. the joists are sistered & the old duct work is 12x3. now, with the added structure, i can only get a 10x3 in that area.
&, because i changed the size of the vanity & moved the stack & toilet, there's plumbing going into that area.
there'd be neither work space nor room for both the duct work & plumbing.
let me take some pics.
brb.
pry that sawzall from my cold dead hands.
i cant vent down that rafter channel. the joists are sistered & the old duct work is 12x3. now, with the added structure, i can only get a 10x3 in that area.
&, because i changed the size of the vanity & moved the stack & toilet, there's plumbing going into that area.
there'd be neither work space nor room for both the duct work & plumbing.
let me take some pics.
brb.
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U
useless.gardens
just won that auction. got 2 hortilux "super hps" for $30 shipped to my door. STOKED !
& james be*n company emailed a promo. he's getting ready to start stocking exotix genetix. say what !
<=== house discussion bottom of last page cont.
this is the area i sistered. the bathroom floor was beyond rotted. you can see the rectangular hole where the old vent line kicked heat out the wall on the side of a 14" vanity.
i increased the vanity to 24" (and a sexy vanity at that) and moved the toilet over toward the wall a few inches. you can see the toilet line at the back toward the right. the vanity is also gonna drop the drain in the same rafter channel as the toilet line. no room for the old vent trunk (vent line). i want to trap the sink in the basement. though i might cut through a plate on the floor. at the very least, i want to run 2 ox-boxes for the pex lines to the toilet & vanity. my thought was to go through the floor plates. the vanity line i was gonna drop through the floor about 12-13" from that rectangular hole in the floor where the old vent was. that area is getting repaired very soon. so that hole will be no more.
next rafter channel over. the vent would terminate right under the window. im going with a 10x2 vent in this space.
here you can see the 12x3 duct line from 1962. i added a stack boot to a 6" round. and, from there, plan to go into the next rafter channel and run down to the location in the above pic for the register box.
& james be*n company emailed a promo. he's getting ready to start stocking exotix genetix. say what !
<=== house discussion bottom of last page cont.
this is the area i sistered. the bathroom floor was beyond rotted. you can see the rectangular hole where the old vent line kicked heat out the wall on the side of a 14" vanity.
i increased the vanity to 24" (and a sexy vanity at that) and moved the toilet over toward the wall a few inches. you can see the toilet line at the back toward the right. the vanity is also gonna drop the drain in the same rafter channel as the toilet line. no room for the old vent trunk (vent line). i want to trap the sink in the basement. though i might cut through a plate on the floor. at the very least, i want to run 2 ox-boxes for the pex lines to the toilet & vanity. my thought was to go through the floor plates. the vanity line i was gonna drop through the floor about 12-13" from that rectangular hole in the floor where the old vent was. that area is getting repaired very soon. so that hole will be no more.
next rafter channel over. the vent would terminate right under the window. im going with a 10x2 vent in this space.
here you can see the 12x3 duct line from 1962. i added a stack boot to a 6" round. and, from there, plan to go into the next rafter channel and run down to the location in the above pic for the register box.
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Can you get a reducer and fit a 10x3 up there? Wheres the toilet can you pipe the vent away from the wall opposite of your toilet? Just a thought. I would get you a reducer and go that route if you can fit it with the vanity etc. otherwise pick a nice spot where it will look proper up in the bathroom. Whatever is easiest yet still esthetically pleasing....LT
U
useless.gardens
the previous homeowner had these 2x12 "plugs" at the ends of the rafters. because there is a handicap ramp & deck (i plan to remove), i thought the plugs were hiding the lags for the plate/sill that attached to the outside of the house (on which the deck is built).
i dont know all the proper terms.
this is where i need help.
and some advice would be sweet too !
i wake up today full of curiosity. i decide to remove the "plugs" at the end of the joists/rafters and take a peek.
well, the asshole homeowner had these pieces of wood in there like a puzzle combined with jenga. i was like what the fuck !!!
little sawzall. little cold chisel on some nail. little pry bar. all in all four hours to remove 3 @ 2x12 pieces of wood maybe 14" wide. they were nailed from the top via the kitchen. they were toe'd in. and hit from the sides too. all nails. old school nails. so this shit was done ages ago.
then i find this:
i dont know all the proper terms.
this is where i need help.
and some advice would be sweet too !
i wake up today full of curiosity. i decide to remove the "plugs" at the end of the joists/rafters and take a peek.
well, the asshole homeowner had these pieces of wood in there like a puzzle combined with jenga. i was like what the fuck !!!
little sawzall. little cold chisel on some nail. little pry bar. all in all four hours to remove 3 @ 2x12 pieces of wood maybe 14" wide. they were nailed from the top via the kitchen. they were toe'd in. and hit from the sides too. all nails. old school nails. so this shit was done ages ago.
then i find this:
U
useless.gardens
what is that piece of wood at the end of the rafters, on the outside of the house, connecting (or going across the rafters/joists) (the termite damaged wood) called?
in construction terms?
see how other joists are sitting on "good wood" above the concrete block.?
see how the one joist is sitting on the block cause the termites ate the shit out of it?
there is no insect activity of any kind in this area.
but, right outside is a deck/handicap ramp (that is outta here ! soon as i get a dumpster) which i suspect is their new food source.
what the fuck do i do here?
i know it gets fixed from the outside. but, do add some kind of construction brackets to that wood on the end of the rafters after i cut out say a 5 or 6' section of this 2x12 board? surely id be screwing down back into the joists on the ends but how to i make the connections to the old wood section.
i really need to know what that area is called.
do i jack up the rafters one by one (there are only 3 areas under the rafters in this section compromised by the termites but they never even touched the joists), clean out the old damaged wood, and slide pressure treated under them?
i need advice.
its not out of my league as far as skills with tools. never fixed anything like this.
in construction terms?
see how other joists are sitting on "good wood" above the concrete block.?
see how the one joist is sitting on the block cause the termites ate the shit out of it?
there is no insect activity of any kind in this area.
but, right outside is a deck/handicap ramp (that is outta here ! soon as i get a dumpster) which i suspect is their new food source.
what the fuck do i do here?
i know it gets fixed from the outside. but, do add some kind of construction brackets to that wood on the end of the rafters after i cut out say a 5 or 6' section of this 2x12 board? surely id be screwing down back into the joists on the ends but how to i make the connections to the old wood section.
i really need to know what that area is called.
do i jack up the rafters one by one (there are only 3 areas under the rafters in this section compromised by the termites but they never even touched the joists), clean out the old damaged wood, and slide pressure treated under them?
i need advice.
its not out of my league as far as skills with tools. never fixed anything like this.
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If I understand what I am seeing it would be a rim joist or band joist. It really won’t be bad depending on how it looks on the outside.
I tried to highlight my responses. I will see if Ol boy is around to answer on the joist header tomorrow.
U
useless.gardens
https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/exteriors/replacing-a-rotted-rim-joist-behind-brick_o
rim joist !
sill plate !!
hello !!!!! new words !!!!!
i dont have brick walls... so this would be even easier to do.
just came up from the basement. after cleaning out the area real good... i can see right through the house to the outside. even getting a nice draft too
im not putting back a "plug" into the damaged area. the plan is to replace the rim joist across a 6' section.
want to replace the sill plate in the effected area too.
i think i can do it myself. if i put a small block chevy into a volvo, wtf, i can do this.
those jacks are called lally columns? can you rent those? where do you get them?
hahahhahahaha... got till spring to plan... but i can support the joists will those jacks like you see in the above webpage & then cut a bevel into the leading edge of a piece of pressure treated 2x4, and beat that under the joists.
then from the outside i can cut the rim joist and reinstall with a fresh sexy new piece.
no cutting corners my fine farmer friends.
i gotta grow down in the basement. we want to make the area perfect. do it once. and never have to repeat.
even if i have to hire, i want to have the contractors out of my house by next year this time. then i can start growing in the basement. we cant have people inside the house with a basement FULL of dank, right?
rim joist !
sill plate !!
hello !!!!! new words !!!!!
i dont have brick walls... so this would be even easier to do.
just came up from the basement. after cleaning out the area real good... i can see right through the house to the outside. even getting a nice draft too
im not putting back a "plug" into the damaged area. the plan is to replace the rim joist across a 6' section.
want to replace the sill plate in the effected area too.
i think i can do it myself. if i put a small block chevy into a volvo, wtf, i can do this.
those jacks are called lally columns? can you rent those? where do you get them?
hahahhahahaha... got till spring to plan... but i can support the joists will those jacks like you see in the above webpage & then cut a bevel into the leading edge of a piece of pressure treated 2x4, and beat that under the joists.
then from the outside i can cut the rim joist and reinstall with a fresh sexy new piece.
no cutting corners my fine farmer friends.
i gotta grow down in the basement. we want to make the area perfect. do it once. and never have to repeat.
even if i have to hire, i want to have the contractors out of my house by next year this time. then i can start growing in the basement. we cant have people inside the house with a basement FULL of dank, right?
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I would agree that replacing the sill plate is the main concern. Which just means cleaning the area out and putting a treated 2x laying between the foundation wall and the floor joists then just block between the floor joists with a 2x10 or 12. The outside will be worth uncovering to see but I bet that will fix it.
